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OUR 



YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA 



THE ADVENTURES 



OF 



A PARTY OF YOUNG AMERICANS IN ALGERIA, 
AND IN SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA. 



BY 



^^A 



JAMES D^McCABE, 



AtJTHOR OF " OUR YOUXG FOLKS ABROAD, ' " PARIS BY SUXLIGHT AXD GASLIGHT," ETC. 



OCT re ; 






PHILADELPHIA: 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 

18 83. 



Copyright, 1882, by J. B. Lippincott & Co. 



x'^- 



7 f ( 




PREFACE. 



npHE very kind reception given by the public and the press to "Our 
Young FollvS Abroad" has encouraged the author and publishers of 
that work to offer a second volume, describing the adventures of another party 
of young Americans in a region as yet new to the readers of juvenile liter- 
ature. 

Four young Americans and a distinguished professor in a leading insti- 
tution of learning in the United States meet for the first time on a steamer in 
which they are crossing the Atlantic, and finding their acquaintance a pleasant 
one, resolve to make a visit to Algeria. This is successfully accomplished ; 
and the travellers are so much pleased with their experience of Northern 
Africa that they resolve to undertake an expedition "across the dark con- 
tinent," from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean. This resolve is speedily put 
into execution, and the '^ Young American Expedition to South Central 
Africa" successfully accomplishes the feat of marching from Benguela, on the 
Atlantic, to the river Zambezi, and thence to Durban, the capital of the British 
province of Natal, on the Indian Ocean, from which they return home by 
steamer. 

The greater portion of the work is devoted to the journey through South 
Central Africa, a region comparatively unknown to Europe and America at 
the present day, and an earnest effort has been made to familiarize the young 
reader with countries, peoples, and customs which, in all probability, he will 
never have the opportunity of visiting. 



g PREFACE. 

The characters mentioned in '^ Our Young Folks in Africa'' as belonging 
to the Young American Expedition are fictitious ; but the natives, the negro 
chiefs, and kings who are introduced to the reader are real personages. The 
adventures which befell the travellers, the routes they travelled, the incidents 
of the journey, and the perils from which they escaped are based upon actual 
occurrences, and are drawn mainly from the experience of one of the most 
distinguished explorers of the regions described. They furnish a true picture 
of South Central Africa, and of the various nations which inhabit it. 

It has been the aim of the author both to amuse and instruct, and it is 
believed that the work is sufficiently full of adventure to render its more 
solid portions acceptable to the general reader. 

The illustrations can be relied upon as accurate, since they were made 
from sketches taken from life or nature. 

J. D. McC. 

Geiimantown, Pa., 

3d August, 1882. 




CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

CHAPTER I. 

The Journey begui^ and the Party formed 11 

CHAPTER II. 
A Visit to Algeria 22 

CHAPTER III. 
Prom Algiers to Constantina 42 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Country of the Kabyles 62 

CHAPTER V. 

The Young American Expedition to South Central Africa . • . .95 

CHAPTER VI. 
Into the Heart of Africa 104 

CHAPTER VII. 

Adventures in the Black Man's Country 127 

CHAPTER VIII. 
From the Bihe to the Zambezi 150 

- CHAPTER IX. 
Adventures in the Lui Country 210 

CHAPTER X. 
On the Zambezi 239 

CHAPTER XI. 
To THE Indian Ocean 283 

7 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Frontispiece. 
The Old Harbor of Marseilles . .11 
In the Suburbs of Algiers . . .13 
An Arab Tribe on the March . . 14 
In the Atlas Mountains . . .15 
Interior of a Kabyle Home . . .16 
Algerian Method of Irrigation . . 17 
The Plain of Metidja in Algeria . . 19 
A Dandy of Algiers . . . .20 
Scene in Algeria . . . . .21 
An Arab Encampment . . .22 

An Arab Maiden of Algeria . . 23 

Arabs of Algeria 25 

Wandering Arab of Algeria . . 26 

An Algerian Shop . . . .27 
Kabyle Armorers at Work . . .28 
An Algerian Foot-Bath ... 29 
Kabyle Woman and Child ... 30 
A Mohammedan at Prayer . . .31 
Arab Woman Churning . . .32 
Algiers from the Sea . . . .33 
An Arab Cemetery near Algiers . . 34 
Bazaar at Algiers . . . .35 

A Pleasure Resort near Algiers . . 36 
A Public Writer at Algiers . . .37 
A Dry-Goods Store at Algiers . . 38 
An Algerian Beauty . . . .39 
Street in the Arab Quarter of Algiers . 41 

Dellys .43 

Bougie, and Hill of Gouraya . . 44 
Arab Woman and Child . . .45' 
Roman Relics at Philippeville . . 46 
Lion-Shaped Rock, Harbor of Bona . 47 
An Arab Market in Algeria . . 48 

Desert Horsemen 49 

Constantina 51 



PAGE 

Roman Bridge at Constantina . . 52 
Bey's Palace, Constantina . . .53 
The Roumi enjoy a Moorish Bath . 55 

"Balek!" 57 

The Great Mosque, Constantina . . 58 
A Marabout of Kybalia . . .59 
Marabout rousing the Kabyles to Revolt 61 
The Arab Guides ..... 63 
Country between Constantina to Setif . 64 

An Arab Douar 65 

Mohammedan Cemetery . . .66 

Bou-Kteun 67 

The Amin of Bou-Kteun . . .68 
The Gates of Iron . . . .69 

Kalaa 71 

Scene in the Grand Kabylia . .72 

Kabyle Women .73 

Fountain of Kalaa . . . .74 
Kabyles on the Watch . . . .75 

Ben-Ali-Cherif 77 

Ben-Ali hunting with the Falcon . 79 

The Disciples of Tofail ... 81 

A Kabyle Child -83 

Kabyle Men ..... 85 

Kabyle Husbandman . . . .86 
Kabyle Oil-Works .... 87 
House of Ben-Ali-Cherif at Chellata . 88 
A Koubba, or Marabout's Tomb . . 89 
Group of Kabyle Women . . .90 
The Djurjura Range . . . .91 
Defile of Thifilkoult .... 92 

Fort National 93 

An Algerian Village . . . .95 
A Genuine Negro Minstrel . . .96 
Kabyle Pottery Works . . .97 

A Kabyle Funeral . . . .99 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Ruined Church near Bonguela 

Government House at Loanda 

The Pilot's Boat at Loanda . 

San Paul de Loanda .... 

The Mountains of Benguela 

Benguela 

jS^egro Village near Benguela 
The Valley of the Donibe . 
IMundombe "Women, Vendors of Coal . 
A South African River 
Mundombe Women and Girls 

Mundombe Men 

A South African Forest 

Articles manufactured b}'- the Natives 

between the Coast and the Bihe 

African Rat 

Tree-Ferns of Africa . . . . 
On the Cuverai . . 
King Chimbarandongo 
Encampment of the Expedition near 

Chimbarandongo's Village 
The Negroes of the Party constructing 

Huts in the Encampments 
Skeleton of a Hut .... 

Specimen of the Huts used by the Ex- 
pedition ...... 

Man and Woman of the Huambo 
Tomb of a Native African Chief . 
Capoco's Sweetheart .... 

Ant-Hills found between the Coast and 

the Bihe 

Weapons and Implements of Native 

African Manufacture 

Dumbo's Wives 

Cassoma . . . 
The Urivi, or Trap for Small Game 
Ganguella, Luimba, and Loena Women 
African Women pounding Maize . 
Bridge over the River Cubango . 
Ant-Hills on the Banks of the River 

Cutato of the Ganguellas . 
Caquingue Blacksmiths' Tools 
Caquingue Blacksmiths 
Ant-Hills Thirteen Feet High, covered 

with Vegetation, on the Banks of the 

River Cutato ..... 
View of the Exterior of the Village of 

Belmonte in the Bihe 



101 
103 
104 
105 
108 
111 
113 
115 
116 
117 
119 
119 
121 

123 
124 
125 

128 
129 

130 

131 

132 

133 
133 
134 

135 

136 

137 
139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 

145 
146 
147 



148 
150 



PAGK 

Silva Porto's House at Belmonte . . 151 
Plan of the Village of Belmonte in the 

Bih6 153 

Woman of the Bihe. digging . . 154 
Biheno Carrier on the March . .155 
Palisades used for the Defence of 

African Villages . . . .156 
Articles manufactured by the Bihenos . 157 
Articles made by the Bihenos . . 159 
A Bihe Head-Dress . . . .160 
Crossing the Cuqueima . . . 166 

Quimbande Man and Woman . .167 

Quimbande Girls 170 

Quimbande Woman carrying her Load. 171 
The SovaMavanda, masked, and dancing 

in the Camp 174 

Ditassoa — Fish of the River Onda . 175 
Tree-Ferns on the Banks of the Onda . 176 
Cabango Woman's Head-Dress . .177 
King Chaquiunde . . . . 178 

Lake Liguri 179 

A Luchaze of the Banks of the River 

Cuito 180 

Luchaze Tinder-Box, Flint, and Steel . 181 
A Luchaze Woman on the Road . . 182 
Luchaze Woman of. Cambuta . . 183 
South African Buffalo . . . .184 
Luchaze Man of Cambuta . . . 185 
Articles manufactured by the Luchazes 186 
Village of Cambuta, Luchaze . .187 
Luchaze Pipe ..... 187 
Luchaze Fowl-House .... 188 
Luchaze Woman of Cutangjo . . 189 
The Cuchibi . . " . . .189 

Luchaze of the Cutangjo . . . 190 
Moene-Cahenga, Sova of Cangamba . 191 

Luchaze Articles 192 

Hatchet of the Ambuellas of Cangamba 192 

Ambuella Pipe 193 

TheQuichobo 194 

The Sova Cahu-hefi-eu . . . 195 

Ambuella Woman . . . .195 

The King of Ambuellas Eldest Daughter 196 
The King of Ambuella's Youngest 

Daughter 197 

Cuchibi Canoe and Paddle . . .197 
Drum used at Ambuella Feasts . . 198 
Ambuella Chief 199 



10 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 





PAGE 


Ambuella Hunter 


. 199 


Royal Village of Cahu 


-heti-<ie, on the 


Cuchibi 


. 200 


Ambuella Arrow-Heads 


3 . . .201 


Assegais of the Ambuel 


las . . . 201 


Fording the Cuchibi 


. 202 


Fish of the Cuchibi 


. 203 


Chipulo or Nhele . 


. 204 


The Malanca 


. 205 


Ant-Hills of the Nhen^ 


ro . . . 206 


A Luina Hunter . 


. 208 


Luina vShield 


. 209 


Luina Houses and Iloe. 


i . . . 211 


Luina Pipes for smokin 


g Bangue . 212 


Iron Implement used as 


a Handkerchief 


by the Luinas . 


. 213 


Luina Milk-Pot . 


. 213 


Luina War-Hatchets 


. 215 


Luina Earthenware 


. 216 


Luina Man . 


. 217 


King Lobossi 


.218 


Gambella 


. 219 


Matagja 


. 221 


Wooden Platters of the 


Luinas . . 223 


Wooden Spoon of the I 


iuinas . . 224 


Luina Hatchet 


. 226 


Luina Woman 


. 228 


Luina War-Club . 


. 229 


Luina Assegais 


. 231 


The Defence of the Bui 


-ning Camp . 234 


A Zambezi Canoe 


. 240 


The Paddles . 


. 240 


The Songue . 


. 241 


Slot of the Songue 


. 241 


Itufa House . 


. 247 



PAGE 

Houston and the Lion .... 249 
The Camp at Sioma .... 250 
The Cataract of Gonha . . .251 

Carrying the Boats Overland at the 

Cataract of Gonha .... 253 
The African Elephant . . . .255 
The Canoes in the Rapids . . . 257 
The Camp near Quisseque . . . 260 
The Last Boat over the Cuando . . 262 
Mr. and Mrs. Gaillard . . . .267 
Encampment of the Gaillard Family in 

Lechuma 269 

Interior of Mr. Gaillard's Camp in 

Lechuma 271 

The Burial of Eliazar . . . .273 

Mozi-oa-Tunia 275 

Mozi-oa-Tunia. The West Falls . 277 

Professor Moreton measuring the Falls 280 
Crossing the " Great Salt Pan" . .284 

The Otico 285 

The English Quarter at Shoshong . 287 

The Opumbulume . . . .290 

Khama 291 

Khama chasing the Ongiris . . . 293 
Ant-Hills near the Limpopo . . 295 

A Night Visit from the Lions . . 297 
Store in Pretoria . . . . .298 
Natives of the Transvaal . . . 299 
A Transvaal Farm .... 301 
Professor Moreton at Pretoria . . 302 
The Drakensberg . . . . . 304 
Near Pietermaritzburg . . . 306 

Professor Moreton and the Negroes of 

the Expedition 309 




CHAPTER I. 

THE JOUENEY BEGUN AND THE PARTY FORMED. 

IN the saloon of the Belgian royal mail steamer " Nederland" one afternoon 
early in February, 1878, were gathered four young Americans, busily 
engaged in examining a map opened out on the table before them. From the 




THE OLD HARBOR OF JTARSEILLES. 



earnestness with which they bent over it, and the eagerness with which they 
expressed their views upon the question they were discussing, a stranger would 
have supposed they were endeavoring to settle some matter of more than 



12 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

usual importance. And so it was to them, for they were attempting to decide 
upon their movements after the steamer should land them safely upon the 
shores of the Old World. They had .sailed from the United States strangers 
to one another, but, being almost the only saloon passengers on the ship, had 
soon drifted into a pleasant intimacy, which became more pronounced and 
pleasant with each succeeding day of the voyage. As is often the case with 
persons thus thrown together, they soon began to compare notes as to their 
plans of travel abroad, and finally resolved to cling together and see the Old 
World in company. They were all as fine specimens of the young manhood 
of their native country as the most patriotic American could desire, and were 
all looking forward eagerly to the enjoyments which new lands and strange 
customs promised them. While they are thus engaged in looking over their 
map, we may present them to the reader. 

The young man on the extrerlie rig' it of the group was George Ash ton, a 
native of Philadelphia. He was tall, broad-shouldered, and finely made, — a 
very athlete in appearance, — with hair, eyes, and complexion as dark as a 
Spaniard's. At Princeton, where he had recently taken his degree, he had 
been noted for his excellence in athletic sports of all kinds, and had been as 
remarkable for his powers of endurance as for his great physical strength. 
To, sound bodily health he united a disposition of unusual amiability and 
generosity, and had been one of the most popular members of his class. 
Three months previous to his introduction to the reader he had come of age, 
and a few weeks later had had the misfortune to lose both of his parents, who 
died within a few days of each other. By their death he had come into 
possession of one of the largest fortunes in his native city. Greatly saddened 
by the double sorrow which had befallen him in the death of both his parents, 
he had resolved to leave America and pass a year or two abroad. In pur- 
suance of this plan he had taken passage on the ship that was now bearing 
him across the Atlantic. 

Next to Ashton stood Philip Lee, a young Virginian, his companion's 
junior by one year. Like the former he was tall and dark, but was more 
lightly built. He was strikingly handsome, and was in all respects a worthy 
representative of the distinguished family whose name he l)ore. Like Ashton, 
he was an orphan. His father had fallen in battle during the civil war, and 
his mother had died a few years after the return of peace. He had sailed 
from home for the purpose of spending the spring and summer in Europe, 
and intended returning to America in the fall to complete his course at college 

The third member of the group was Walter Hubbard, the son of a wealthy 
merchant of New York. He was but nineteen, but was well grown and 
manly looking for his age ; and though he had enjoyed at college the reputa- 
tion of being the wildest and most audacious member of his class, he was, 



THE JOURNEY BEGUN AND THE PARTY EORMED. 



13 



withal, a warm-hearted, generous fellow. As it was his father's intention to 
take him into business with him, he had allowed the young man to sail for 
Europe in order that he might see something of the Old World before settling 
down to the work of his life at home. 

The fourth and last member of the group was a stout, hardy-looking 
young man, — Robert Houston by name; He was tbe only son of one of the 




IX THE SUBURBS OF ALGIERS. 



most noted mine-owners of the Pacific coast, a man of immense wealth, and 
had grown up with scarcely a wish ungratified. Naturally disinclined to 
study, he had not availed himself of the opportunities at his command, and 
consequently was the inferior of his companions in education. Yet he greatly 
atoned for this deficiency by his sound, practical good sense, his straight- 
forward and honest nature, and his hearty generosity, qualities which had at 
once made him a favorite with his new friends. 

As we have said, they Avere each and all fine, manly fellows, and fair 
representatives of the rising generation of the United States. 



14 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Their examination of the map before them interested them very much, and 
an eager and animated discussion was going on among them. It grew more 
animated every moment, and it was evident that they were far from coming 
to an agreement. At length the young Californian, with a good-natured laugh, 
withdrew from the group, and throwing himself in a lounging position upon 
one of the seats, began to whistle softly to himself. 





AN ARAB TRIBE ON THE MARCH. 



" Now, Houston," said Ashton, turning to him with an air of vexation, 
" that's too bad. Will you never be convinced?" 

"I am entirely convinced of one thing, boys," replied Houston, "and that 
is, that we shall never reach an agreement in this way. We've been arguing 
this matter for the past six days, and we are no nearer a decision than when 
we began." 

^'But we must come to a decision," said Philip Lee. "It would be too 
bad to break up so pleasant a party. We shall be at Antwerp, the captain 
says, on the sixteenth, four days from this. Surely we ought to be able to 
agree upon some plan that will enable us to stick together." 

" For my part," said Houston, " my mind is quite made up." 



THE JOURNEY BEGUN AND THE PARTY FORMED. 15 

"Then let us have yonr plan, my boy/^ cried Hubbard. "It seems to me 
you have the levellest head in the party, and it may help us to know what you 
intend doing." 

"Thank you," replied Houston, laughing; "I am not going to depend 
upon my ' level head/ however. I shall make use of another man's. In a 
few words, my plan is this, — to join Professor Moreton and travel with him." 




IN THE ATLAS MOtTNTAINS. 



" Where does he intend to go?" asked Ashton. 

" I don't know," was the reply ; " but he said to me last night that he had 
mapped out a very interesting journey, and was only sorry that he would be 
obliged to make it alone. He wants company, and, from the manner in which 
he spoke, I think he wants me to go with him. I have quite made up my 
mind to do so. It does not matter much where I go, and I think the time 
spent with him will be not only pleasant but very profitable to me." 

"That's not a bad idea," said Ashton, reflectively. " We have seen enough 



IQ OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

of the professor since Ave have been shipmates to be sure that he would be 
a pleasant and congenial companion. As he has a definite plan of travel 
marked out, however, we should all have to surrender our own schemes and 
accept his. Still, we should be free to separate from him at any time if we 
saw fit.'' 

^'So far so good," said Walter Hubbard, who had been listening thought- 
fully. ^' But it seems to me we are overlooking one thing, and that the most 




INTERIOR OP A KAB"i:LE HOME. 



important : Professor Moreton may be willing enough to take Houston for a 
companion, but the question is whether he would like to have our whole party 
at his heels." 

" There's but one way to find out," said Houston, quickly, " and that is 
easily accomplished. Let's go at once and ask him." 

" I like your Californian bluntness, Houston," said Ashton, laughing. 

" That's the way we do things in ' 'Frisco,' " replied Houston. " None of 



THE JOURNEY BEGUN AND THE PARTY FORMED. 



17 



your Eastern beating about the bush with us. If we want to ask a man a 
question we put it to him squarely, and expect a prompt answer." 

"Well, Houston," said Philip Lee, "I like your plan, and I propose that 
we seek the professor at once, and put the question to him. It will end this 
perplexing discussion." 

" I left him on the deck, smoking, when I came in here half an hour ago," 
said Hubbard ; '' and as he generally takes a long smoke after lunch, we shall 




ALGERIAN METHOD OF IHUIGATIOX. 



probably find him there now. What say you, fellows, shall we do as Houston 
suggests ?" 

There was a general affirmative answer; and the party at once left tlie 
saloon to seek the professor. 

"The professor," as he had been called by the young men, was none other 
than Henry Moreton, until recently the distinguished professor of mathematics 
in one of the leading colleges of the United States. Though but forty years 



18 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

old^ lie had won an enviable reputation in his own countiy, and his name was 
not unknown in Europe. He was a short, thick-set man, with red hair and 
beard, and the keenest and cheeriest of blue eyes, yet with an expression which 
denoted rare determination and firmness of character. For ten years he had 
filled his position in his college with marked ability, and during that period he 
had never failed to spend his summer vacations abroad, so that he was already 
an experienced traveller. But now a sudden fit of weariness had seized him, 
and under its influence he had resigned his chair with the intention of spending 
several years in foreign travel. 

He was lounging idly in his steamer chair on the afternoon in question, 
dreamily puffing away at a huge ^' meerschaum,^' and gazing off at the sea, when 
the four young men approached him. He roused himself from his revery as 
they came up, and gave them a pleasant greeting. 

'^Professor,'' began Houston, who made himself the spokesman of the party, 
" we have come to ask you two questions. You said to me last night that you 
would like to have company in your travels. I mentioned this to our friends 
just now, and we have come to the conclusion that we should like to be your 
travelling companions. The questions we wish to ask are, first, Where are you 
going? and second. Are you willing to take us for companions?'' 

The professor listened quietly while Houston was speaking, sending huge 
puffs of smoke from his pipe, and keeping his gaze fixed all the while on the 
waves. When the young man had finished he answered slowly, — 

" I will reply to your second question first. I shall be very glad, indeed, 
to have your company if my plans suit you. It may be that after you have 
heard them you will not be so anxious to accompany me. I shall go direct 
from Antwerp to Paris, where I have some business matters to look after. I 
shall leave Paris on the morning of the 22d for Marseilles, and shall reach 
that place early the next morning. On the afternoon of the 23d I shall sail 
from Marseilles for Algiers, where I hope to arrive on the morning- of the 
25th. I shall remain in Algeria during the month of March, making excur- 
sions along the coast and into the portion of the Atlas Mountains inhabited by 
the Kabyles. I hope to return to France by the first week in April. After 
that my movements are uncertain. Now, young gentlemen, you know my 
plans as far as I know them myself, and if you see fit to accompany me, I 
shall be heartily glad to have you for comrades." 

" I, for one, have already made up my mind to go with you, professor," 
said Houston. 

" And I too," said Ashton. 

" In fact, professor," said Philip Lee, " we are all of one mind. We shall 
enjoy both being with you and the novelty of seeing a portion of Africa. But, 
tell me, what are the advantages of such a trip?" 



THE JOURNEY BEGUN AND THE PAIiTV FORMED. J 9 

"Many/' replied the professor. " In the first place, you will see a country 
and a civilization almost unknown to American travellers. We will see some- 
thing of Arab life, something of Moorish civilization, and a great deal of the 
Kabyles, who are the descendants of the old Berber race, the original inhabit- 
ants of Northern Africa. They are a most interesting jieople, and though they 
have been successively conquered by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Vandals, 
the Arabs, and the French, they have never yet been completely subdued, but 
to this day retain something of their ancient independence. They are a brave, 
hardy race of mountaineers, and are the most industrious as well as the most 
warlike of the Algerian tribes." 




THE PLAIN OF METIDJA IX ALGERIA, 



" Is the country a safe one to travel through ?" asked Hubbard. 

" Entirely so. The present season is also the best for Algerian travel. The 
month of March is the most delightful of the year in that country ; the roads 
are in good order, and the mountaineers religiously respect the obligations of 
hospitality to strangers. Besides, the French authority is so firmly established 
that the country is apt to be at peace for a long time to come." 

" Then we may consider it settled that we go with you ?'' said Hubbard, 
glancing at his companions, who replied by affirmative nods. 



20 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



'■'■ Not exactly settled," replied the professor. " We have yet four days 
before we reach Antwerp, and a week after that before I leave Paris. I would 
like you to think of the matter. If you still hold to your determination to go 
with me, you can join me in Paris the day before my departure. I can only 
add that I shall be very glad to have your company, and that I think the 
journey will be both pleasant and profitable to you. It will add comparatively 
little to your expenses, and you will return to France in time to arrange for 
your future movements." 




^£UX.U-C- 



A BANDY OF ALGIERS. 



During the remainder of the voyage the Algerian trip was constantly dis- 
cussed by the young Americans, and always with growing enthusiasm. Not 
even their first sight of the English shore, or the splendid run of the steamer 
through the English Channel, or the sail up the Scheldt, — perhaps the most 
interesting journey in Europe to one who is enjoying it for the first time, — 
served to draw their minds from the anticipated pleasures of the African trip. 



THE JOURNEY BEGUN AND THE PARTY FORMED. 



21 



When they parted from the professor at Antwerp they told him tliey had 
definitely decided to accompany him, and agreed to meet him in Paris in time 
to start with him for Marseilles. 

From Antwerp Professor Moreton proceeded direct to Paris, but the young 
men remained in that quaint old city a day, in order to visit its interesting 
sights. From Antwerp they proceeded to Brussels, where another day was 
spent in exploring that city. The third day was occupied by the journey from 
Brussels to Paris, where they arrived on the evening of the 19th. The next 
two days were devoted to a hasty view of Paris and to preparations for their 
African journey, in which Professor Moreton rendered them valuable assistance. 





fe^^Wft^^^^m^: ^r-- 



SCENE IX AT.GEIUA, 



It forms no part of our purpose to relate the incidents of the brief visit 
of our young travellers to the most beautiful city of Europe. They greatly 
enjoyed it, and looked forward with lively pleasure to the prospect of seeing it 
at their leisure upon their return from Algeria. 

The morning of February 22d found the entire party comfortably seated 
in a first-class carriage of the Paris, Lyons and Mediterranean Railway. The 
train left Paris at a little after eleven, and Marseilles was reached the next 
morning at half-past six. As their steamer did not sail until late in the after- 
noon, the day was given to exploring the city, and many and interesting were 
the sights and scenes the party witnessed in the principal seaport of France. 




CIIAPTEE 11. 



A VISIT TO ALGEKIA. 



OUR travellers were on board the steamer " Algeria," of the line known as 
the Compagnie des Messageries Maritimes de Finance, by four o'clock on 
the afternoon of February 23d, and promptly at five the ship sailed. A fine 
view of Marseilles, with its old and new ports and the heights rising in the 







AN ARAB ENCAMPMENT. 



background, was obtained by the party from the deck as the steamer glided 
out of the harbor and turned her head to the open sea. The afternoon was 
delightful, and a soft breeze came off from the shore bringing with it a faint 
scent of flowers. As the steamer passed into the Gulf of Lyons the professor 
pointed out a little group of islands lying near the coast. The nearest one he 
told his companions was the He D'If. They could easily distinguish the old 
22 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



23 



castle with which it is crowned. This, he told them, was once a state prison, 
and in it the great Count Mirabeau was imprisoned by his father. He added 
that the castle was also the site of one of the most thrilling scenes in Dumas^s 




AX ARAB TtTAIDEN OP ALGERIA. 



novel of '^ Monte Christo,'' it being the place from which the hero of th^ book 
made his wonderful escape. 

The sea was quiet ; and when the dinner-bell rang, the party went below 
witli keen appetites, and did full justice to an excellent meal. When they 
returned to the deck, the twilight was settling down over the sea and the land 
was rapidly receding from view. As they were fatigued by their long journey 



24 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

from Paris and their tramp through Marseilles during the day, they went to 
bed early, and slept well, lulled by the gentle motion of the Mediterranean, 

As Sunday was bright and fair, the day was spent mainly on deck. It was 
very pleasant to lounge there, enjoying the balmy sea-breeze and watching the 
quaint Mediterranean crafts, which they passed in considerable numbers. The 
sky was cloudless and the sea a deep blue, which so nearly matched the color 
of the heavens that sea and sky seemed to blend. The voyage was all the 
more enjoyable because it was so different from that across the Atlantic. The 
latter voyage had been rough and stormy in the main, with " a gray sea and a 
gray sky'^ almost every day. Every one of the party, save the professor, who 
was an old sailor, had been more or less uncomfortable on the Atlantic; but 
now, as the steamer glided gently across this quiet sea, they experienced . a 
feeling of comfort and contentment, and declared it the very perfection of 
ocean travelling. 

" I say, professor/^ said Houston, as Mr. Moreton drew his steamer chair 
to the place where the young men were lounging on the deck in the afternoon, 
^^ if you have no objection suppose you tell us something about this strange 
country we are about to visit. '^ 

" Willingly,^' replied Professor Moreton. " But first let me light my pipe. 
I can talk better at sea with a pipeful of good tobacco to inspire me.'' 

So, lighting his pipe, the professor gave them the following account of 
Algeria between the whiffs of blue smoke which he blew from his lips : 

'^ Algeria was formerly one of the Barbary States, but is now the largest 
and most important of the French Colonies. It lies in Northern Africa 
between the Mediterranean on the north, the Desert of Sahara on the south, 
Tunis on the east, and Morocco on the west. It comprises an area of about 
one hundred and fifty thousand square miles, and is a little smaller than the 
State of California. It contains nearly three millions of inhabitants, the 
greater portion of whom belong to the native nomadic races ; with the excep- 
tion of the Jews all the natives are Mohammedans. The European inhab- 
itants number about two hundred thousand, more than half of whom are 
French. The country is generally mountainous, being traversed by lofty 
ranges of the Atlas Mountains, which run nearly parallel to the coast, and rise 
in some places to a height of more than seven thousand feet. The mountains 
are divided into two chains, the Great Atlas bordering on the Sahara, which 
contains the highest mountains, and the Little or Maritime Atlas between it 
and the sea. The interval between the two ranges is occupied by a plateau 
which is about one hundred miles wide in its western part and fifty in the 
eastern. The country bordering on the coast is known as The Tell. It is 
generally hilly, though in some places a flat and fertile plain extends between 
the hills and the sea, and the hills are everywhere intersected by fruitful 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



25 



valleys. In ancient times the country was very productive, and is gradually 
becoming so again under the rule of the French. The principal cities are 
Algiers, the capital, Oran, Constantina, and Bona. The people are nearly 
equally divided into what are known as the settled population and the nomadic 
tribes. The two principal native races are the Arabs and the Berbers. The 
former, who inhabit chiefly the southern parts of the country, are mostly true 
nomads; they dwell in tents and wander from place to place. A large 




ARABS OF ALGERIA. 



number of them, however, are settled in The Tell, where they carry on agri- 
culture, and have numerous villages. The Berbers are the original inhabitants 
of the country, and are now called Kabyles. They still form a considerable 
portion of the population, and are distributed mainly over the mountainous 
parts of the province of Constantina. Many, however, are to be found in 
The Tell and in the plains. They have largely intermarried with the Arabs, 
and this amalgamation is still going on. They are a brave, hardy, active, and 
industrious race, living in villages, and engaging in agriculture and the cultiva- 
tion of fruit-trees. They also make their own agricultural implements, gun«, 
gunpowder, leather, carpets, and other articles in common use. We shall see 
much of them in our journey, and you will be able to form your own opinions 



26 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



of them. Another and a smaller class are the Moors, who are descended 
partly from the Arabs and partly from the ancient Mauritanians. They live 
in the towns and villages near the coast, and earn a scanty livelihood as small 
tradesmen or mechanics. There are about thirty thousand Jews in the colony, 
and these form one of the most influential classes of the population, owing to 
their wealth and commercial activity. Until 1865 they were excluded from 
all public offices, but an act passed in that year by the French Chambers 
declared all native-born Jews and Mohammedans entitled to all the rights and 
privileges of French citizens on placing themselves completely under the civil 

and political laws of the 
French. The Jews have 
rapidly availed themselves 
of these privileges. 

" Algeria is partly under 
civil and partly under mili- 
tary rule. The latter system 
prevails principally in the 
southern portions among the 
nomadic tribes. Nearly one- 
fourth of the area of the 
country and nearly one-half 
of the inhabitants enjoy civil 
government. 

"The history of Algeria 
is very interesting, but I shall 
have to sum it up briefly. 
In ancient times the country 
was inhabited by two nations, 
the Massyli and the Mas- 
ssesyli, who were rivals for 
the supreme power of the 
whole country. During the struggle between Hannibal and the Romans, 
Syphax, the sovereign of the Masssesyli, espoused the cause of the Carthaginian 
leader, while Masinissa, the prince of the Massyli, became the ally of the 
Romans. Upon the overthrow of the Carthaginian power, Rome rewarded 
Masinissa by bestowing upon him the dominion of Syphax, with the title of 
King of Numidia. During the Roman civil war, Juba, king of Numidia, sided 
with Pompey. He was defeated by Caesar, and his kingdom was converted 
into a Roman province. The Roman rule was highly beneficial to the coun- 
try; agriculture and commerce flourished, roads were built, and cities and 
towns sprang up. Christianity early obtained a foothold in the province, and 




WANDERING ARAB OF ALGERIA. 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



27 



spread rapidly. The country was enjoying a high degree of prosperity when 
the Vandals invaded Northern Africa and drove the Romans from it, about 
the middle of the fifth century. They almost destroyed the civilization intro- 
duced by the Romans, but their reign was of short duration. In the year 533 
they were expelled by Belisarius, the general of the Eastern emperor, Justinian, 
and the country was restored to Christianity, and continued a province of the 
Eastern Roman Empire until about the middle of the seventh century ,when it 
was overrun by the Saracens, who established themselves firmly in it. Under 
their rule it was divided into a number of petty states under independent 




i/.'I'rr/.i 



AN ALGERIAN SHOP. 



chiefs ; civilization rapidly disappeared, and the people sank into barbarism. 
In the eleventh century a religious sect, known as the Morabites, conquered 
many of the petty chiefs, overran the country, and laid the foundation of the 
dynasty of the Almoravides, which remained in power for nearly a century, 
and at one time ruled over nearly all of Barbary and a large part of Spain. 
This dynasty was succeeded by the Almohades, who ruled the country until 
1273, when it was again divided into a number of small states. In 1505, Fer- 
dinand, king of Spain, sent an expedition against the country, under the Count 
of Navarre. Oran and a number of other towns were taken, and in 1509 the 
Spaniards captured the city of Algiers. They continued to hold the country 
until the death of Ferdinand ; but their rule was very distasteful to the Alge- 



28 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



rines. In 1516 one of the native princes, liearing of the death of Ferdinand, 
sent an embassy to the famons Turkish pirate, Aruch Barbarossa, requesting 
his aid in an effort to drive out the Spaniards. Barbarossa readily complied 
with the request; but no sooner had he established himself in the country than 
he murdered the prince and proclaimed himself king of Algeria. He intro- 
duced the system of piracy for which Algiers became so famous in after-years, 
and by force and treachery extended his rule over a large part of the country. 
He w i«s finally defeated, captured, and beheaded by the Spaniards, and was 




KAiivj^E aiimoim:rs at work. 



succeeded on the throne by his brother, Hayradin, who, finding himself un- 
able to cope successfully with Spain, placed himself under the protection of 
Turkey. The Sultan readily granted him assistance, and appointed him vice- 
roy, or pasha, of Algiers. With the aid of the Turks he drove out the Span- 
iards, and then proceeded to extend his system of piracy. He strongly fortified 
Algiers, and. built a long mole for the protection of his ships, upon which 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



29 



work he is said to have forced thirty thousand Christian prisoners to labor for 
three years. He built and equipped a strong fleet, and the Algerian corsairs 
soon became the terror of the Mediterranean. Spain and Italy were especial 
sufferers from their ravages, and in 1541 the Emperor Charles V., at the re- 
quest of the Pope, led a strong naval and military expedition against Algiers. 
The fleet was wrecked by 
a fearful storm, and the 
army was routed by the 
Algerines, the emperor 
and a handful of his 
force making their escape 
with difficulty. 

^'Meanwhile the Pa- 
sha of Algeria had been 
extending the bound- 
aries of his province. 
Before the close of the 
sixteenth century he had 
carried his authority as 
far westward as the fron- 
tier of Morocco. The 
piratical operations of 
the Algerines were car- 
ried on at the same time 
with equal vigor, and 
these involved them 
in frequent wars with 
France, England, Ven- 
ice, and other powers. 

The Algerian fleet was several times defeated and almost destroyed, and the 
city of Algiers itself was twice bombarded by the French, and almost reduced 
to ashes. The Algerian corsairs, on the other hand, swarmed in the Mediterra- 
nean, and several times cruelly ravaged the coast of Southern France. Treaties 
were made with the Mediterranean powers of Europe, but were broken with- 
out scruple whenever the Dey found himself strong enough to do so. Thou- 
sands of Christian slaves constantly languished in captivity in Algiers, and 
throughout Europe societies were formed for the purpose of ransoming them. 

'^ The authority of Turkey during this period existed only in name in Al- 
giers. In 1600 the janizaries obtained permission from the Sultan to elect their 
Dey or governor from their own number. After this the power of the Dey 
steadily grew stronger, while that of the Turkish pasha decreased. In 1705, 




AN ALGERIAN FOOT-BATH. 



30 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Dey Ibrahim declared his independence of the Sultan, and expelled the Turk- 
ish pasha. Thus the country passed into the sole power of the Dey, who was, in 




KABYLE WOMAN AND CHILD. 



his turn, ruled by the janizaries. These were natives of Turkey, recruited in 
Constantinople and Smyrna. No native of Algeria, even though the son of a 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



31 



janizary by a native woman of the country, could be admitted to their ranks. 
The janizaries continued from this time to elect the Dey, and frequently muti- 
nied against and murdered the chiefs of their own selection. Turkey was so 
hampered during this period by her constant wars with Russia that the Sultan 
was unable to make any effort to recover his authority in Algeria. The Dey 
sent occasional presents to Constantinople as a token of nominal allegiance to 
the Sultan; but the regular tribute ceased, and all actual authority on tlie 
part of the Sultan was forever ended in Algeria. During all this while the 
Algerian pirates continued to sweep the Mediterranean, and many of tlie 
European powers endeavored to purchase 
exemption from their outrages by the pay- 
ment of an annual tribute, which, how- 
ever, did not always protect their vessels 
from outrage. In 1795 our own country 
had to pursue a similar course, and a hand- 
some subsidy was paid by the United 
States to the Dey to secure peace. During 
the wars of the French Revolution and 
of Napoleon the constant presence of large 
European fleets in the Mediterranean put 
a check to the piracies of the Algerines. 
They were promptly resumed, however, 
upon the return of peace. About the same 

time the second war between the United States and England came to a close. 
The Dey, thinking that the United States were too much crippled by the 
contest to punish his insolence, suddenly rencAved his depredations upon 
American ships. He also threatened to reduce Mr. Lear, the American 
consul at Algiers, to slavery, and compelled him to purchase his liberty and 
that of his family by the payment of a large ransom. Several American 
merchantmen were captured by the Algerines and their crews reduced to 
slavery. The excuse offered by the Dey for these outrages was that the 
presents of the American government were not satisfactory. The Presi- 
dent of the United States thereupon determined to bring the matter to a 
final settlement, and in May, 1815, Commodore Decatur was despatched to 
the Mediterranean with a fleet of ten ships of war, three of which were 
frigates. He was ordered to compel the Dey to make amends for his past 
outrages, and to give a guarantee for his good conduct in the future. On the 
voyage out Decatur fell in with the largest frigate in the Algerian service, near 
Gibraltar, and captured her after a fight of half an hour. Two days later he 
captured another Algerian cruiser. The fleet then proceeded to Algiers, but 
upon his arrival there Decatur found the Dey in a very humble frame of mind; 




A MOHAMMEDAN AT PRAYER. 



32 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



the loss of his two best ships and the determined aspect of the Americans, who 
threatened a bombardment of the city, terrified him, and he abjectly sued for 
peace. He was required' to come on board of Decatur's flagship, and there 
sign a humiliating treaty with the United States, by which lie bound himself 
to indemnify all the Americans from whom he had extorted ransoms, to sur- 
render all his prisoners unconditionally, to renounce all claim to tribute from 
the United States, and to refrain from molesting American vessels in future. 
This bold example was followed by England. In 1816 a fleet was sent to 

Algiers, under Lord Exmouth, 
who bombarded the city, re- 
duced it to ashes, and compelled 
the Dey to surrender all his 
Christian prisoners. 

" Piracy was not suppressed, 
however. Italian vessels were 
captured in the Mediterranean, 
and the Algerian cruisers even 
carried their depredations into 
the North Sea. A day of 
reckoning was at hand, how- 
ever. In 1823 a quarrel arose 
between France and Algiers. 
The house of the French consul 
was plundered, the consul him- 
self was struck in the face by the 
Dey, and several outrages were 
committed upon French vessels. 
A French squadron was sent to 
Algiers, which took the consul 
on board, and for three years 
maintained an ineffectual block- 
ade of the port. At length, in 1830, Charles X. sent a powerful naval and 
military force against Algiers. The city was captured on the 4th of July, and 
twelve ships of war, fifteen hundred brass cannon, and over ten million dollars 
were surrendered to the French. The Dey and his Turks were compelled to 
leave the country. Louis Philippe decided to retain Algeria as a possession of 
France; the French army was strongly reinforced, and Bona, Oran, and Bougie 
were captured. The Arab and Kabyle tribes now rose against their new 
rulers, and thus began the long war between the French and the natives of 
the country, which was not ended until 1847, when Abd-el-Kader, the great 
leader of the struggle, surrendered to General Lamoriciere. Since then several 




ARAB WOMAN CHURNING. 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



33 



insurrections have been attempted by the Kabyles, but each has been crushed by 
the overwhelming power of the French. During the last ten years the country 
has been peaceful, and the French authorities have been enabled to grant 
civil government to a large portion of the colony. The country is also grow- 
ing in wealth and prosperity. 

" And now, young gentlemen," said the professor, " I have made rather a 
longer story than I intended ; but it may serve you as an introduction to the 
country, and help you to understand better what you will see during our 
travels in Algeria." 

The next morning the professor and his companions were on deck by 
six o'clock. Land was 
full in sight, and in 
the distance the Atlas 
Mountains could be 
seen looming up 
against the sky. The 
steamer sped swiftly 
along, and soon the 
city of Algiers was 
plainly in view, rising 
like an amphitheatre 
from the water up 
the northern slope of 
Mount Boujarin, and 
presenting a pictur- 
esque and beautiful 
appearance which was 

greatly heightened by the dazzling whiteness of the houses, as they rose in 
terraces up the side of the hill. The professor called the attention of his 
companions to the contrast between the whiteness of the houses and the rich 
green background of the mountain, and told them that this was the origin of 
the Arab comparison of Algiers to a diamond set in an emerald frame. 

As the steamer passed between the long jetties and entered the port, he 
pointed out the Islet of the Marine (or, as it was formerly called. El Feiion) 
crowned with a lofty lighthouse, and told them it was the last spot in Algiers 
held by the Spaniards, and the scene of many fierce encounters. This island, 
he added, w^hich was called by the Arabs Al-Jezireh, or " the Island," gave its 
name to the city. The mole connecting it with the mainland, he told them, 
was that upon which Hayradin had employed thirty thousand Christian slaves 
for three years. He pointed out the Kasbah, or citadel, on the highest point 
of the city, and other objects of interest. 

3 




ALGIERS FROM THE SEA. 



34 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



By half-past eight o'clock the steamer was securely moored to her dock 
alongside the custom-house, and an hour later our travellers were comfortably 
settled in their quarters in the " Hotel d'Orient/' While they are making 
themselves comfortable, we invite the reader's attention to a brief description 
of the city in which they are to begin their African journey. 

Algiers was the ancient Icosium of the Romans, and under them was a 
place of some importance, but was less prominent than its neighbor Julia 
C?e.«area, the modern Cherchel. Its history has been related in the account we 




AN ARAB CEMETERY NEAR ALGIERS. 



have already given of the country. Since 1830 it has been the capital of the 
French colony of Algeria. It contains a population of about sixty thousand, 
of which about fifteen thousand are French and six thousand Jews. It is 
built in the form of an amphitheatre on the northern slope of a steep hill 
rising abruptly from the coast. It ascends the hill in the form of an irregular 
triangle, at the apex of which is situated the Kasbah, or citadel, the ancient 
residence of the Deys, about five hundred feet above the level of the sea. 
The city is divided into two towns, the old and the new. The latter, which 
is entirely modern and European, is built upon the lower part of the slope 
and along the shore ; while the old town, which occupies the higher parts of 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



35 



the hill, is altogether Oriental in its character. Tlie new town is well laid out, 
consisting of handsome streets and squares, and containing the government 



1 ill iM' S'iiiiiillilliiliiiliiiiiiliyiiilll'l,'',i I' 'iii'^lltf^jWiii'i ,!'',l ill fii'i"! fu II 0\\M ^^ \ 'iii|iii|, , 

^ " ll pi !l 




BAZAAR AT ALGIERS. 



buildings, the barracks, the hotels, and many handsome private residences. 
The streets are regular and spacious, and are adorned with handsome arcades. 
In the old town, or Arab quarter, the streets are dirty, narrow, and winding. 



36 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



The houses are square, substantial-looking buildings, presenting to the streets 
only bare walls pierced with a few slits protected by iron gratings in place 
of windows. Each house has a courtyard, or quadrangle, in the centre, into 




A PLEASURE RESORT NEAR ALGIERS 



^^^"^.l.rJf^'"'"'' 



which all the rooms look, and which is entered from the street by a low 
narrow doorway. All the streets of the city now have French names. 

y Algiers is surrounded by walls, and is strongly fortified on the water side, 
but its land defences are weak and exposed. Beyond the city walls are two 
handsome suburbs, and the surrounding country is sprinkled with elegant 
villas. The city is the residence of the governor-general of Algiers, of the 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



37 



prefect of the Department of Algiers, and of the various officials employed in 
the administration of the colony. It is also the seat of an archbishop and of 
a Protestant consistory, and has a chamber and tribunal of commerce, a college, 
various schools, a bank, a public library, a museum, and several theatres. It 
is well supplied with water, and there are numerous public and private 
fountains and baths. Of late years the city has become a favorite winter \/ 
resort for invalids. 

Our travellers remained in, Algiers until the 5th of March, and during 
that time thoroughly explored the interesting city. One of their first visits 
was made to the harbor and the 
batteries defending it. Hiring a 
boat, they visited the ancient har- 
bor and the Island of the Marine, 
and the battery of El Djerfna, 
which occupies a rock almost in 
the centre of the port. Lying at 
ease in the boat, and gazing up at 
the dazzlingly beautiful picture 
presented by the city, the suburbs, 
and the masses of hills in the 
background, Ashton said almost 
as if speaking to himself, — ■ 

" It is hard to imagine, pro- 
fessor, that this handsome city 
could ever have been a nest of 
pirates. It seems made for the 
abode of peace. I can hardly 
realize that it was the scene of so 
much crime and suffering." 

" It looks peaceful enough now," replied the professor, " and no doubt 
seemed equally so in its worst days. Yet, as I have told you, it has a terrible 
history. Do you see that lofty height off there to the westward ?" he added, 
pointing to a dark mountain rising beyond the city and some distance west of 
it; "that is Boudjareah, and on those lofty heights still dwell in huts two 
powerful Arab tribes which in former days furnished the most daring and 
blood-thirsty of all the Algerian pirates. That large fort rising on the southern 
side of the city marks the site of the Gate of Azoun, where the Christian 
captives who would not accept the Koran were hung by the loins from iron 
hooks until they died. Up there on that height, on the opposite side of the 
town, in front of Fort Neuf, which you see rising there, is the Bab-el-Oued, or 
Oued Gate. There the Arab rebels were beheaded by the yataghan, for the 




A PUBLIC WRITER AT ALGIKRS. 



38 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



^. 



Arab Deys were careful even in such matters to show more mercy to followers 
of the Koran than to Christians. Even this harbor we are now sailing over 
was marked by its deeds of blood, for here helpless women who had incurred 
the anger of their lords were drowned, tied up in a sack between a cat and 
a serpent. Yes, they were a cruel and blood-thirsty race, and the best thing 
that has ever happened to the country is the rule of the French." 

A visit was also made by the professor and his companions to the 
Cathedral of St. Philippe. This they found to be a showy church, but one 
singularly lacking in tastefulness in its adornments. It stands next to the 
palace of the governor-general, and occupies the site of the old Mosque of 
Hassen. The most interesting portion of it is a small chapel to the visitor's 
right on entering, which contains the bones of the martyr St, Geronimo. 

"Who was St. Geronimo, professor?" asked Houston. "I never heard 
of him before." 

" Geronimo," replied Professor Moreton, " was the only Christian martyr 
of Algiers who has been canonized by the church. His history is related by 
a Spanish Benedictine monk named Haedo, who published a description of 
Algiers in 1612. He tells us that during an expedition of the Spapish gar- 
rison of Oran in 1540 a young Arab 
boy was captured, taken to Oran, 
and baptized under the name of 
Geronimo. When he was about 
eight years old, he was recaptured by 
his family, and lived with them as a 
Mohammedan until he reached the 
age of twenty-five. He then returned 
to Oran with the intention of livin 
thenceforth as a Christian. In May^ 
1569, he joined a party of Spaniards 
who embarked in a small vessel for 
the purpose of making a raid upon 
neighboring Arabs. The vessel was 
captured by an Algerian cruiser, 
and Geronimo and his companions 
were carried to Algiers as prisoners. 
Every effort was made there to induce 
him to renounce Christianity, but all 
i n vai n . He was sentenced to a most 
cruel death, and the sentence was 
promptly executed. His hands and feet were bound with cords, and he was 
thrown alive into .a mould in which a block of beton or concrete was about tc 




A DUV-GOODS STORE AT ALGIERS. 



A VISIT TO ALGERIA. 



39 



Se made. AVhen the concrete containing his body had hardened, the block 
was built into an angle of one of the forts of the town then in course of 
construction. The ex- 
act spot was carefully 
recorded by Haedo, 
who closed his descrip- 
tion with the following 
words : ' We ho{)e that 
God's grace may one 
day extricate Geronimo 
from this place, and 
reunite his body with 
those of many other 
holy martyrs of Christ, 
whose blood and happy 
deaths have consecrated 
this country.' " 

^' Is the story true, 
professor, or only le- 
gendary ?'' asked Ash- 
ton. 

" The sequel shows 
it to be true," was the 
reply. "In 1853 it 
was found necessary by 
the French authorities 
to demolish the fort, 
and on the 27th of 
December, in the very 

spot described by Haedo, the skeleton of Geronimo was found imbedded in a 
block of concrete. The bones were carefully removed, and interred with great 
pomp in this chapel. Liquid plaster of Paris was run into the mould left by 
his body in the concrete, and a perfect model of it was obtained, showing not 
only his features but the cords which bound him, and even the texture of his 
clothing. This cast is preserved in the government museum here, and we shall 
sse it when we visit that establishment." 

A very interesting visit was made to the Grand Mosque, the most ancient 
in Algeria, and also to several other mosques, among which was that of Sidi 
Abd-er-Rahman the Thalebi, which contains the tomb of that saint, and tombs 
of a number of the pashas and Deys. The travellers went several times to the 
Government Library and Museum, w^hich collections are contained in the 




AN ALGERIAN BEAUTY. 



40 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

ancient palace of Mustapha Pasha. Here the professor spent a large part of 
his time, devoting himself to the study of certain matters connected with 
Algeria, and leaving the young men to wander through the city at will. In 
the museum they saw the plaster cast of St. Geronimo, to which we have 
referred. The museum also contains some interesting Roman remains and a 
number of valuable Christian antiquities. The Permanent Exhibition of 
Algerian products, which occupies five of the large vaults beneath the Boule- 
vard de Republique, also interested them greatly, as it enabled them to obtain 
a thorough comprehension of the products, manufactures, and natural history 
of the colony from tho, specitnens exhibited there. They also visited the Kasbah, 
or citadel, which, as we have stated, occupies the highest point of the city. 
The fortress was erected in 1516 by Barbarossa, and was, until the capture of 
the city by the French, the residence of the sovereigns of Algiers. It was 
defended by two hundred pieces of artillery, and was considered almost im- 
pregnable. It contained the palace, a mosque, and one or two other buildings. 
After the siege the French cut a road straight through the centre, converted 
the mosque into a barracks, and used the remainder of the fortress for military 
purposes. It was in the vaults of the citadel that the enormous treasure we 
have spoken of was found by the conquerors. The view from the citadel is 
very fine. Below are the city and harbor, with the picturesque suburbs and 
villas stretching away on either side of the walls. Far away to seaward 
stretches the Mediterranean, an unbroken line of blue, while beyond the city 
lies the fertile plain of the Metidja, with the dark wall of the Atlas Mountains 
rising grimly from its farthest verge. 

^ Our travellers were greatly interested in the city itself. It was a pleasure 
to stroll under the handsome arcades of the modern town, and look into 
the shops and bazaars with which they are lined. They found the arcades 
a pleasant refuge from the sun during the warm days, and a convenient 
shelter from the rains in bad weather. All sorts of people passed them in 
the streets, and various and quaint were the costumes they beheld. At 
every turn they met the French officers and soldiers in their gay uniforms, 
the Moors and Arabs in their turbans and long-flowing robes, and the 
Kabyles in their picturesque d ressy Hubbard declared it was like walking 
through the "Arabian Nights," and that every moment he expected to en- 
counter some character of those wonderful romances. He stoutly averred 
that he would not be surprised if the good Khalif Haroun Alraschid should 
slap him on the shoulder at any moment, and ask him to accompany him on 
one of his rounds, or if Sindbad the Sailor should buttonhole him and com- 
mence to relate one of his marvellous adventures. The native cafes were also 
interesting, and the party spent many pleasant half-hours in them, sipping the 
delicious coffee from the daintiest and most delicate of cups; the professor 



A VISIT TO AIAir.IilA. 



41 



also enjoying a good smoke fVoin one of the Inige Tiirklsli pijics providcMl at 
such places. 

But })leasant as was the visit lo (lie capital, it soon drew to a close. The 




STREET IN THE AUAB QUARTER OF ALGIEIIS. 



professor had engaged passage for his party on one of the steamers of the 
Valery line, which was to sail from Algiers for Bona on the 5th of March. 
From that place our travellers were to make their way across the Kabyle 
country back to Algiers. t 




CHAPTER III. 



EEOM ALGIEKS TO CONSTANTINA. 



THE steamer on which Professor Moreton and the young Americans em- 
barked for their voyage along the coast was much smaller than that in 
which they had crossed the Mediterranean, but was, on the whole, very com- 
fortable. The vessel sailed promptly at noon, and, as the day was bright and 
fair, they had a fine view of the city and coast until darkness hid the land from 
view. The city presented a very picturesque appearance as the steamer receded 
from it, fading gradually into an indistinct mass of white set in a dark back- 
ground. The vessel's course was directly across the Bay of Algiers towards 
the open sea, and in a little more than an hour Cape Matifou was rounded, 
and beyond it could be seen trie summits of the Atlas Mountains, among which 
our travellers were to spend much of their time. 

The day was pleasant, with a fair wind and smooth sea, and the views of 
the coast were very beautiful as the steamer sped swiftly along. At half-past 
four the vessel dropped her anchor in the port of Dellys, an insignificant town, 
about forty-four miles from Algiers. The harbor is very insecure, and in bad 
weather steamers are not able to enter it. A delay of three hours was made, 
to land a portion of the cargo, and our travellers had ample time to survey the 
town with their glasses. 

^^ This place is memorable in the history of the French conquest of the 
country," said Professor Moreton, " as it was here that the French were first 
initiated into the peculiar method of Kabyle fighting. Here every house was 
converted into a fortress, and each had to be taken separately. The French 
had literally to storm their way through the town. The defenders consisted 
of the very flower of the Kablye chivalry, and even the women fought des- 
perately." 

The evening was passed pleasantly on deck, the saloon being too warm, 
and the party enjoyed a pleasant night's rest, from which they were aroused 
about six o'clock the next morning by the sound of the anchor going over the 
42 



rnoM ALuirJis to ('()\sta.\ti.\a. 



4:1 



si(U'. 'J'licv wvvv soon on deck, and louiul that the steamer was lyln<^ in tli(; 
harbor ol' r>onLiie, tlie i)rinei|)al seaport of l^astern Kal)vlia. Xnnilxrs of* 
boats were hovering- around tho vessel, and as the Americans eame on dc^ck 
they were hailed by a seort^ of boatmen urging them to land and see tlie town. 
Upon learnini:; iVom the 
captain tiiat the steamer 
would not sail until two 
o'clock in the afternoon, 
the party decided to go 
ashore alter an early break- 
fast. That meal ended, 
they repaired to the deck 
again. The professor se- 
lected a boat, the owner of 
which could speak Frencli 
fluently, and ordered it 
alongside. As they pulled 
away from the ship they 
could see that the town 
was built up the side of a 
steep hill, and was divided 
into two parts by a deep 
ravine, which the boatman 
told them was called Sidi 
Touati. 

" It was in that ravine," said the professor to his companions, " that a 
tragedy occurred which shows the Kabyle character in its worst and best lights. 
In 1S36 the French commandant, M. de Mussis, was invited to a conference 
there by the sheikh of Amzian, and was treacherously shot by him. The sheikh 
endeavored to excuse his act by saying that it was done in revenge for the 
murder of a Kabyle marabout, or Mioly man,' who had been killed by the 
French sentinels. His countrymen, however, sternly denounced the murder, 
and reminded the sheikh that he had just taken coffee Avith his victim. He 
became known as the man who murdered with one hand and took gifts with 
the other; and so great was the indignation of the Kabyles at his violation of 
the laws of hospitality that he was compelled to resign his office. He died in 
utter obscurity.'' 

" I think l\hall like the Kabyles," said Houston. " What I saw^ of them 
in Algiers gave me a good opinion of them, and from w-hat you say of them, 
professor, they must be good fellows at heart." 

As he spoke the boat touched the stony beach which bounds the harbor. 




44 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Our travellers sprang ashore, and the professor told the boatman to await 
their return. 

" O Roumi/' exclaimed the man, laying his hand on his breast, and bowing 
low, "you will find me faithful. I will await your coming at this spot.'' 

" What did the man mean by calling you Roumi ?" asked Philip Lee. 
" Is that the Kabyle for ^ professor V " 

" No," replied Professor Moreton. " It is the title given by the natives 




BOUGIK, AND HILL OP GOUKAYA 



to all Europeans in this country. It means simply ^ Christian,' and its origin 
is no doubt due to the fact that the first Christians of this region were 
members of the Roman Catholic Church. The Kabyle regards all Christians 
as belonging to that faith. He recognizes no difference between Romanism 
and Protestantism. Every European is in his estimation a Romanist. Hence 
the term ^ Roumi,' which is by no means intended as a mark of respect in all 
cases.'' 

Bougie occupies the site of a very ancient Roman town, called Salda by 
Strabo. It has been ruled by the Romans, Berbers, Arabs, Spaniards, and 
Turks, and each race has left behind it interesting memorials of its occupancy. 
Our travellers made a visit to the remains of the Roman fortifications, which 
are still visible in many places. The arch at the landing place, and the w^alls 
and towers on the hillsides behind the city, all belonging to the Saracenic 
system of defence, also interested them greatly. They strolled for several 
hours through the town, seeing many quaint and interesting sights, and 
climbing its steep streets, many of which are simply stairways leading to 
higher elevations. Some lovely views of the harbor and coast were obtained 
from the highest points of the city. The travellers were at length thoroughly 
fatigued by their climb, and were glad to return to their boat. They were on 
board the steamer by one o'clock, and at two the vessel resumed her voyage. 



FROM ALiilEliS TO C()^'STA STISA. 



45 



Towards seven o'clock the captain |)()intc<l out the town oi" 1 )ji(lj(!lly, a 
small, uniinportiint ]>lace, marked by huge barracks and a hospital. The pro- 
fessor told his companions that this town was the scene of the terrible defeat 
of the expedition sent a<^ainst the Algerines by Louis XIV. of France in 
1634. During the night the steamer rounded Cape Bougarone, and about 
four o'clock on Friday morning anchored in the harbor of Philippeville. 




ARAB "WOMAN AND CHILD. 



The professor and his companions were soon aroused by the noise of dis- 
-charging the cargo and the shouts of the sailors. Coming on deck between 
five and six o'clock, they learned that the steamer was to lie at anchor until 
seven that evening. This would give them ample opportunity to visit 
Philippeville, and after breakfast they went ashore, and devoted the day to 
seeing the city. 

Philippeville is a modern town, and is built on the site of the ancient 
•city of E-usicada. After the capture of Constantina the French authorities at 



46 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Algiers resolved to establish a more secure communication with the former 
place than already existed by way of Bona. In 1838, therefore, Marshal 
Valee occupied the site of the ancient Rusicada, and to make good the title 
of the government to it, purchased the ground from the Beni Meleh tribe for 
one hundred and fifty-three francs. Upon this site a city was founded, and 
named in honor of Louis Philippe, king of the French. It has grown 
rapidly in the forty years that have elapsed since then, and is now a handsome, 
well-built town, French in all its characteristics as well as regards its inhab- 




/^■OELAVILLB 



KUMAX llKLtCS AT Pill LIPPE VILLE 



itants. Its streets are arcaded in iuiitation of the Rue de Rivoli at Paris, its 
houses are European in appearance ; and it contains a gorgeous church. 

Yet, though entirely modern, Philippeville contains many interesting relics 
of the old city of Rusicada. The professor and his companions visited a 
number of these remains, among which were the well-preserved Roman reser- 
voirs on the hill above the town, which still supply it with water; the ruins 
of the theatre, and some groups of inscribed columns. On one of these they 
found a rude but amusing sketch, evidently cut there by some Roman school- 
boy, representing an aquarius, or water-carrier, bearing his twin buckets joined 
by a pole. 

The party returned to the steamer late in the afternoon, and towards half- 



/•'A'o.u M.(ni:i:s to coys'iw .\t/.\.\ 



47 



])ast seven tlie vess(>l put out to sea a^aiii. W'licii tlicy awoke the next inorn- 
int!; the sliip was at aiiehoi* in the liaiulsome loadstead of I>oiia. In a little 
while the steamer stood in towards the town, and, enlciini:; the well-prote(;ted 
harhor, was made last to Ikm* ])lac(^ at the dock. As they j)asse(l in the? professor 
called the attention of his companions to tiie sint^nlar shapes of the rocks in 
the harbor, one of which heai's a remarkable resemblance to tlie figure of a lion. 




LION'-SH.VI'KD I!OCK, HARBOR 01' liONA. 

It was so perfect in every part that Ash ton declared it might well be taken for 
some huge lion that had been turned to stone by the ancient gods, and placed 
there to guard *he entrance to the port. 

As Bona was the most eastern point of our travellers' wanderings, and the 
end of their voyage by sea, they were soon ashore, and in a short time after 
landing had secured comfortable apartments in the Hotel d'Orient, to the pro- 
prietors of which they had letters from their landlord in Algiers. 

Bona, called by the Arabs Annaba, or '^the City of Jujube Trees,'' was 
founded by them after the destruction of the ancient Hippone, or Hippo, one 
mile to the southeast of the present towm, which was in a great measure built 
of the ruins of the old city. The town, is thoroughly Eastern in appearance, 
consisting of narrow streets bordered by Moorish houses. A few of these are 
devoted to the shops or stalls of the natives, — shoemakers, jewellers, and black- 
smiths, — who sit cross-legged on the narrow ledges of their shops and transact 
business between the whiifs of their long pipes. These industries are about 
equally divided between the Jews and the Mozabites, a remnant of the old 
Berber race. The latter still cling to the true Arab dress, a small bournouse 
without a hood, broad breeches coming to the knee, and a turban twisted like 
a coil of ropes. Our travellers noticed that one street bore the name of St. 
Augustine, and were not a little surprised to find all the shops in it occupied 
by Jew^s, and those all of one particular family. 

The day being Saturday, the streets were full of Jew^s, .dressed in gayly- 



48 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



colored robes, but all wearing black turbans. In other respects the dress of 
the wearer was according to his means and taste, but the turban bore the same 
hue upon the heads of rich and poor alike. This surprised the young Ameri- 
cans, and they appealed to Professor Moreton for an explanation. 

" Under the rule of the Arabs and Turks," said the professor, " the Jews 
were treated with great harshness and cruelty, and were permitted to dress 
only in the most mournful colors. They were compelled to wear black turbans 
as a mark of the contempt in which they were held by the followers of the 




AN ARAB MAllKET IN ALGERIA, 



prophet. Now, although given by the law every right and privilege of French 
citizens, they still, in small towns like this, wear the black turban as a souvenir 
of their former sufferings." 

On the next day, Sunday, the 6th of March, the professor and his com- 
panions made a visit to the site of Hippone, which they reached by a Roman 
bridge, restored to its ancient strength and proportions by the French. As 
they walked along the professor told them that Hippone was originally 
founded by the Carthaginians, and was, at a later period, one of the royal 
cities of the kings of Numidia. From this it derived its Roman name of 



FROM ALGIERS TO CONSTA STISA. 



49 



Hippo Regius. Later still it was created a colony ol" the empire, and with 
Carthaire was one of the wealthiest centres of Ivoinan coniinerce in Africn. 
It was taken and reduced to ashes by the Vandals in 431, hut was rebuilt 
under Belisarius, only, however, to be finally destroyed by the Arabs in G87. 
There was but little to interest the visitors in the ruins save some foundations 
which are said to be those of the basilica in which 8t. Augustine preached lor 
so many years. 

^' Whether these ruins be those of the church or not,'' said the professor, 
*' We know that this site was the scene of the labors of the great Christian 
Father, and it is worth the 
trouble of coming here to 
stand on the spot his feet 
once trod." 

" Who was St. Augus- 
tine?" asked Houston. "I've 
often heard his name, but 
I know nothing of his his- 
tory. Tell us about him, 
professor." 

" Augustine," began the 
professor, " was the greatest 
of the four great Fathers 
or teachers of the Latin or 
Roman Church. No other 
man has ever exercised such 
powder over the Christian 
church, and no other mind 
ever made such an impres- 
sion upon Christian thought. 
He was of good family, and 
w^as born at Tagaste, in Nu- 
midia, in 35-4. His father 
was a pagan at the time of 

Augustine's birth, but his mother, Monica, was a devout Christian, who, by 
her example and })rayers, converted her husband to the true faith, and also 
brought her son up in Christian ways and doctrines. When but a youth 
Augustine fell ill, and being in danger of death, expressed a wish to be bap- 
tized ; but when the danger was past he deferred his wish, and, notwithstanding 
his mother's admonitions and prayers, he grew up without any profession of 
Christian piety, or any devotion to Christian principles. He finally plunged 
into a life of dissipation and immorality, in which he continued until he was 

4 " 




^.?^M 



DliSEIlT HOUSEMEN. 



50 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

thirty years old. Yet all this while he was a close and diligent student of the 
classic writers, especially of the Latin poets. He studied at Madaura and Car- 
thage, and was early known for his intellectual attainments. In his thirtieth 
year he went to Rome as a teacher of rhetoric, and soon after accepted a 
similar place at Milan. There, in his thirty-second year, moved by the preach- 
ing of St. Ambrose, he became a convert to Christianity, and the next year 
was baptized on Easter Sunday. He then went back to Rome for a short 
time, after which he returned to his native country and spent three years in 
retirement, originating the system of solitary monasticism which derives its 
name from him. At the end of his three years' retirement, he went to Hippo 
to see a Christian friend, and while there was compelled by the unanimous 
voice of the church to accept the position of presbyter. He burst into tears 
when the demand was made upon him, but submitted to the will of his 
brethren. He served with great zeal as presbyter, and subsequently became 
the bishop of Hippo. His residence here covered a period of thirty-five 
years, and here he composed his ' Confessions,' his ' City of God,' and his other 
great theological works. He bore the leading part in the great controversies 
of his time, and was the ablest supporter of the Roman Church. He died in 
430 while the Vandals were besieging Hippo, and was spared the sorrow of 
witnessing the destruction of his home." 

Early on Monday, March 10, our travellers left Bona by the diligence for 
Philippeville. The ride was along the plain and across low spurs of foot- 
hills, and led through an uninteresting country. Philippeville was reached 
about nightfall, and the party spent the night there at a very comfortable 
hotel. On Tuesday morning they took the railway for Constantina, which 
was reached in the course of a few hours. The greater part of the route lay 
tlirough a succession of sunny hills and groves, and the professor and his com- 
panions were hardly prepared for the startling change in the scenery when 
Constantina came in view. On the flat top of a bare rock, encircled by a mag- 
nificent mountain chasm, and rising a thousand feet above the cascades of the 
river Rummel, which washed its base, rose the principal city of Kabylia, pre- 
senting a grand and imposing appearance. They had seen nothing like it, and 
were greatly impressed by it. Upon reaching the station they proceeded at 
once to the Hotel de Paris, situated in the French quarter of the town, where 
they succeeded in obtaining excellent accommodations. 

Constantina occupies the site of the once splendid city of Cirta, one of the 
most powerful communities of ancient Numidia. The Romans regarded it as 
the strongest position in that country, and it was made by them the converging 
point of all their military roads in Numidia. It was allowed by the early 
emperors to fall into decay, but was restored by Constantine the Great, from 
whom it took its present name. The picturesque beauty of its situation is 



FROM AlJilllliS TO COSSr.WTISA 



61 



unsurpassed by tliat of any city in the world, lor nadiic seems (o liav(; con- 
structed it entirely with a view to defence and artistic l)eanty. Tlie rock on 
which it stands is nearly qnadvihiteral in sliape, witli its fact's corresponding^ to 
the cardinal points of the compass, and sk)pin<^ from north to sonth. Its sides 
rise perpendicularly nearly one thousand feet from th(? river Ruinmel, which 
surrounds it on the north and east. On the west it is connected hy a neck of 
rock with the main land. The deep ravine through which the Rnmmel flows 
varies in breadth from two hundred feet on the southeiist side to nearly four 
hundred opposite the citadel, and is spanned on the northeast side by four 
natural arches of rock, about two hundred feet above the river. One of these 



=.'— ^N 




''^'''^''^\iLm^''''''^^^^ ^^-^^^^^"^^^ 




CONSTANTIN \. 



^./^. 



serves as a foundation for the bridge of El-Kantara. The city is partly French 
and partly Arab, each race occupying a distinct quarter. The population 
numbers forty thousand. 

Professor Moreton and his companions remained at Constantina during the 
rest of the week. They found the city very different from Algiers. It was 
much more picturesque and interesting, and gave them a truer idea of Arab 
and Kabyle life than the capital. In passing the old Bab-el-Djedid, now 
called by the French "The Gate of the Breach," Professor Moreton called the 
attention of the young men to it. 

" Constantina," said he, ^' was the most hotly defended of all the Kabylian 
strongholds in 1837. It was by this gate that Colonel Lamorici5re entered the 
city at the head of his Zouaves. His success, however, was only the beginning 



52 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



of the hardest struggle. The city had to be taken house by house, and the 
gallant Laraorici^re was severely wounded while directing the operations. The 
French gained steadily, however, and at last the Kabyles were crowded into 
the Kasbah, or citadel, on the summit of the rock. Driven to despair, they 
evacuated this strong position, and endeavored to lower their women by ropes 
into t\\Q ravine. Many of the ropes broke under the heavy strain, and the 




EOMAN BRIDGE AT COXSTANTIXA, 



mangled bodies were piled up in heaps at the foot of the precipice. Numbers 
of the Kabyles, however, made their escape by climbing down the sides of 
the rock. The fall of the city greatly discouraged the natives, who had re- 
garded it as impregnable, and the French authority was soon firmly established 
in the province." 

The contrast between the French quarter of the city, with its rectangular 
streets and broad open squares, bordered with trees and adorned with foun- 



FROM MJilllllS TO COSSTASTISA. 



5.3 



tains, aiul the tortuous laues and Moorish arciiitecturc of the Aral) quarter, was 
very interesting to the young Ainerieans, and it seemed to tliein tliat in tlieir 






;V S I'ALACE, Co.VSTAXriNA. 



rambles through the towu they were constantly passing from one world into 
another. They frequently walked out on the bridge of El-Kantara, an old 



54 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

Kornan structure restored by the French, and gazed down at the foaming river 
three Iiundred feet below; and on one of these walks the professor told them 
that an Arab poet had compared this river to a bracelet encircling an arm. 

Through the courtesy of the governor of the province our travellers were 
admitted to the old palace of the Bev. This curious edifice was erected about 
sixty years ago by Ahmed Bey, the last of the native rulers of Constantina. 
Having determined to build himself the most gorgeous palace in Northern 
Africa, he stripped the ruins of Constantina, Bona, and Tunis of whatever 
was most beautiful in the way of lloman marbles and carvings, and built them 
into his new edifice. Thus, though the palace is in many respects the despair 
of architects, it preserves numerous rare and beautiful relics of Roman history, 
which would otherwise have gone to decay. The guide who accompanied the 
party through the palace called their attention to some curious frescos in the 
loggia or gallery, — crude, grotesque arabesques, seeming rather the production 
of a disordered fancy than of a mind and hand trained to art. 

" They are the work of a French Roumi, as they call us here," said the 
guide, who was also French, in reply to a question by the professor. " Ahmed 
Bey, having completed his palace, was very anxious to adorn this gallery with 
frescos, which he had heard was the proper thing to do. Unfortunately he 
could find no artist among either his Arab, Moorish, or Jewish subjects 
capable of executing the task. At last he bethought himself of a French 
prisoner, who was confined in one of his dungeons. He caused the man to be 
brought before him, and astounded him by giving him the order to freseo the 
walls of this gallery. The poor fellow was a shoemaker, and had never 
touched a brush or pencil in iiis life. In vain he attempted to decline the 
honor, and protested that he could not paint. The Bey cut him short with the 
reply, — ^ You lie, you dog of a Roumi; all the Christians can paint. Go to 
your work. I will give you your liberty if you succeed ; but will put you to 
death if you disobey me.' The poor shoemaker, thus made an artist in spite 
of himself, went to his task with a heavy heart and a trembling hand. The 
result you see before you in this odd mass of arabesques. At the appointed 
time the Bey came to inspect the work, and the poor Frenchman awaited his 
decision in an agony of fear, expecting each moment to hear the order for the 
bowstring or the yataghan. But Ahmed was delighted. He pronounced the 
work superb, and dismissed the * artist' with his liberty and a handsome 
present. As he watched the man leave the palace, Ahmed observed with a 
chuckle to one of his attendants, ^ That dog wanted to deceive me; but I was 
too wise for him. I knew that all the Christians could paint.' " 

One evening during their stay in Constantina the professor and his com- 
panions strolled into a Moorish bath in the Arab quarter of the town, for the 
purpose of enjoying the luxury of ^'a good cleaning-up," as Hubbard expressed 



FROM AlAni:iiS TO (X).\STA\T1XA. 



55 



it. All liad expericiiced (lie (Iclij^lits of the Turki^^li hatlis iii Xcw Yorlc and 
Philadelphia, and supposed that they would he even pleasaiiter here on their 
native soil. They w(>re not loni^, however, in disc()verin<r the didereiice. 
Houston, in a letter to his fii-ther, written the next day, thus deserihes their 
experienee. We give his aeeount in prefercnee to a deseription of our own : 

"We were ushered," he wrote, "into a low, vaulted building, dimly lighted 
by oil lamps suspended from the ceiling. The light was made even dimmer 
by clouds of steam which floated among the arches. How the place did smell 
of soap! We were each shown into a closet, in which we removed our clothing 




THK KOUMI ENJOY A MOORISH BATH, 



and wrapped ourselves in large white sheets. Then we came out into the main 
hall, looking like a parcel of ghosts, and not a little nervous as to what was in 
store for us. We were then led to a marble bench and told to sit down. As 
soon as we had done so we found the heat had greatly increased. In a little 
while the perspiration was running in streams from every pore of our bodies, 
and our sheets were soon drenched with it. We were then taken into a room 
of milder temperature, where our sheets were removed, and Ave were each 
handed over to two stout, naked negroes. They were powerful fellows; and, 
as they could speak neither French nor English, we could not make them 
understand us, but had to submit ourselves to their mercy. Placing a white 



56 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

cloth on the floor for each of us, they laid us on our backs, and began rubbing 
the soles of our feet with pumice-stone. The profe sor, who can't bear his feet 
to be tickled, roared at this operation ; but the negroes seemed to take this aS 
encouragement, and rubbed his feet harder than ever. When they had finished 
with our feet they put their hands into small bags and rubbed us all over as 
hard as they could. I thought they would not leave a particle of skin on our 
bodies. We howled lustily, I tell you, but this seemed only to encourage the 
negroes to renewed exertions, and they smiled at us benevolently, and endeav- 
ored to show us by signs how much we were being benefited by the operation. 
All the while they climbed over our bodies, planting their knees on our legs, 
chests, and arms, until it seemed that they would fairly crush us by their 
weight. Not satisfied with scraping us in this way, they almost drowned us 
by drenching us with warm water thrown from silver vessels, which were in a 
marble basin under a cock fastened in the wall. The poor professor was a 
sight to behold; He looked like a boiled beet, and was spluttering and gasp- 
ing for breath, and abusing the negroes with all his might. Suddenly the 
black fellows seized us, and placing each of our heads under a cock, let a large 
stream of water flow over our heads and down our bodies, while at the same 
time they kept drowning us with water from the basin. When we were about 
half dead they carried us to another side of the room and dried us with fine 
napkins, after which each respectfully kissed the hand of the person he had 
been torturing. We thought from this that our troubles were at an end, and 
were about to return to our closets when the black fellows stopped us, laid us 
down again on dry cloths, and began to rub our bodies with a kind of earth, 
which burned like quicklime. They did not suffer it to remain on us long, 
however, but drenched us again with warm water until we were clean. Then 
we w^ere each seized without ceremony by a negro, who placed his two knees 
against the lower part of our backs, and, catching us behind by the shoulders, 
gave us a jerk that seemed to crack every bone in our bodies. We were rolled 
over, manipulated until our joints seemed dislocated, and pommelled in a way 
that seemed absolutely barbarous ; and then, w^hen the ordeal came to an end, 
we were released and smilingly shown into a room, where, enveloped in sheets 
again, we were permitted to lie down and rest for a little while before dressing. 
I was surprised to find how soon the sense of soreness left me. Coffee was 
brought to us, and to this the professor added a pipe. When we had rested, 
we dressed and went back to our hotel. I seemed to be walking on air, I felt 
so light and buoyant; and how I did sleep that night! Next morning I got 
up feeling cleaner than I had ever felt before, and without \^i\Q least soreness 
or uncomfortable sensation." 

It was rather a novelty to our travellers to sit in the cafes lining the prin- 
cipal square of the French quarter and listen to one of the military bands 



FliOM ALaiERS TO CONSTANT! NA. 



67 



playing familiar operatic airs; hut the l)aii(l imd iIk; music scciucd out of 
place in this old J^erher strongiiokl ; aud the party liked hotter to roam 
through the jNIoorish (piarter, the streets of which were only about fiv(! feet 
wide, and so crowded that locomotion wius slow. Sometimes there would be a 
sudden cry of " Balek I Balek !" and the white-turbaned, loug-robed natives 



III i;^|ll:.i.i'''ll!'l| 




would crowd hastily against the walls of the Louses, leaving a wide pathway 
for a horseman who would dash by, scattering the throng before him as he 
uttered his warning shout. Very pleasant it was to lounge on the stone 
benches of a coffee-house, sipping the fragrant beverage, and, in accordance 
with Eastern customs, eating it at the same time, and to watch the throngs 
leisurely passing along the street. Here sauntered by the swarthy Arabs in 
their white bournouses, the suspicious-eyed Jews, the haughty Turks, the 
dark-browed, fierce-looking Kabyles, heavily-turbaned Moors, with long 
flowing robes, and the gayly uniformed soldiers of the garrison. Each street 
in this quarter of the town has its specialty. One is devoted to tlie tailors, 
who sit cross-legged in their narrow stalls, and pursue their work in silence ; 
another is given up to the blacksmiths, and echoes and re-echoes with the 
blows of the hammers upon the anvils ; and another still contains the shoe- 
makers, wdiose store of slippers seems inexhaustible, and sets you to w^oudering 
what can be the necessity for making so many slippers when nearly every 
native of Constantina goes barefooted. Other streets again are dark and 
silent, being lined with dingy walls pierced with grated openings for windows 
and low narrow arches for doorways. Veiled figures pass in and out of these 
archways, and once in a while you catch a gleam of a dark eye, which 




THE GREAT MOSQUE, CONSTANTINA. 



FJiOM AiAiiFJis TO coysTAyriNA. 



59 



suggests that the women of C^onstaiitiiia may not he hehind their Eiustern 
sisters in heauty. Risini^: hi^h ahove this intricate hihyrinth of lionses are 
the slender minarets of the niosqncs. The hirgest and most snhstantial is a 
square tower, slia])ed like a belfry, crowned by a dome and crescent, belonging 
to the Grand Mosque. From the liighest gallery of the tower come floating 
down at intervals, all through the day and night, the deep-toned, bell-like 
voices of the muezzins exhorting the faithful: "Come to prayer! come to 
prayer ! Prayer is better than sleep. There is no God but God ; and Mo- 
hammed is the prophet of God !" Our travellers vis"ted several of the 
mosques, the principal of which was the Grand Mosque, which the Arabs 
claim is the most beautiful in Algeria. The interior is adorned with columns 
of pink marble supporting rows of Moorish arches, and with tiles of painted 
faience set in the walls. The pulpit, coarsely painted in red and blue, stands 
in the centre, and from this the Imaum recites the prayers. Upon the floor are 
spread carpets for the devotions of the rich, and mattings for those of the 
poor. The visitors were required to remove their shoes upon entering the 
mosques, and w^ere provided with soft woollen slippers in their place. 




A MARABOUT OP KTBALIA. 



On Friday the professor and his companions went to see the performances 
of the fire-eating marabouts. These are held every. Friday, and constitute the 
most curious spectacle to be w^itnessed in Constantina. 

" These marabouts," said the professor, " belong to a sect founded about 
three hundred years ago by Mohanimed-ben-Aissa, from whom they take their 



60 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

name of Aissaoui. The legend states that the founder was very poor, but 
that, instead of working to support his family, he devoted himself to medita- 
tion and prayer. This won him the favor of the prophet, who appeared to 
A'issa's wife with baskets of provisions and to Aissa with orders to found a 
sect. The whole object of these fanatics seems to be to show that nothing can 
hurt a true believer, but that everything can nourish him. Their fanaticism 
and jugglery give them great influence over the excitable Kabyles, and they 
have been the authors of almost every outbreak against the French. They 
take good care, however, to keep themselves out of danger when war actually 
breaks out.'' 

By this time they had reached the place where the performances were to be 
held. Entering the hall, they found quite a large audience, principally of 
Arabs and Kabyles, with a sprinkling of French soldiers, assembled. These 
formed a ring; in the centre was an open space, in which a number of the 
marabouts were seated. 

The performance began by the beating of drums and tambours, to which 
accompaniment the marabouts sang a wild, unearthly chant. This was con- 
tinued for about a quarter of an hour, when one of them suddenly sprang into 
the middle of the ring with a hoarse yell, and began to dance frantically, 
swaying his body back and forth, and twisting it violently into various un- 
natural positions. All the while the most furious and unearthly cries burst 
from his lips. He was soon joined by another and another marabout, until 
half a dozen were howling and dancing in the ring. This portion of the cere- 
mony greatly amused the young Americans, and Hubbard declared that the 
marabouts would prove even more popular in the United States than the negro 
minstrels. 

"It's the best walk-around I ever saw," said Houston. "It must be rather 
tiresome, though." . ** 

He had scarcely spoken when two of the performers dropped to the floor 
from exhaustion. The mokaddam, or head of the order, then commanded the 
dancing to cease. In a few moments the drums and tambours struck up again, 
and two men sprang forward into the ring, and began to force their eyes from 
their sockets with large iron spikes. They drew them out to an almost in- 
credible distance without seeming to feel the least pain. Another marabout 
now walked forward with his mouth full of red-hot coals of fire, which he had 
taken from a brazier in full view, and passed around the ring blowing out the 
sparks. A fourth drew a large bar of red-hot iron from the brazier and passed 
it repeatedly over his hands and face. It burned its way across the flesh, but 
the man seemed to feel no pain or inconvenience, and finally placed the bar in 
his mouth and held it there without support. Then another hideous-looking 
fellow came forward and began to chew the leaf of a cactus, paying no heed to 



FROM MJiir.liS TO (•().\srASTl.\A. 



Gl 



and sIku'p 
swallowed 



|)ik(' 
it. 



, al'tcr which h(! chcwt'd uj) a qiiaM- 
A sixth swallowed a living scor- 



the pricks of its dani!:eroii 
tity of broken glass anc 
pion, a small snake, and 
a handfnl of iron nails. 
All through the perform- 
ance, which lasted nearly 
two hours, the horrible 
yells of the marabouts 
and the beating of the 
drums continued with 
scarcely any intermis- 
sion. The men appeared 
to be roused to the highest 
pitch of fanatical frenzy. 

"Well, boys," asked 
the professor, as they 
passed out into the street 
again, " what do you 
think of the fire-eaters?" 

"I am glad to have 
seen the performance 
once," replied Philip Lee; 
" but it disgusted me. I 
would not care to witness 
it a second time." 

"It's very curious, 
though," said Houston. " I'd like to know where the trick lies." 

" They keep their secrets well," said the professor. " During the reign of 
Louis Philippe the French government sent the famous sleight-of-hand per- 
former, Robert Houdin, to Algeria to show that thase performances were not 
supernatural. He greatly surpassed the marabouts in his tricks and experi- 
ments, but could never learn the secret of theirs." 




MARABOUT ROUSING THE KABYLES TO RKVOLT. 




CHAPTER IV. 

THE COUNTRY OF THE KABYLES. 

THROUGH the assistance of one of the higher French officials at Con 
stantina, whose acquaintance he had made, Professor Moreton succeeded 
in engaging a couple of Arab guides to conduct his party to Setif, and thence 
on to Bou-Kteun in Kabylia. For the use of the travellers five insignificant 
mules were all that could be procured, and these seemed scarcely strong enough 
for the journey. The guides, who spoke French very well, assured the pro- 
fessor, however, that the animals were fully equal to the task before them, 
having accomplished it often before. As the members of the party had left 
their baggage at Algiers, and had brought with them only the clothing neces- 
sary to the journey, they consoled themselves with the thought that the mules 
would be burdened with but little more than the weight of their riders. 

Early on the morning of Monday, March 18, the guides were at the 
entrance to the hotel with the mules. Our travellers were soon in their 
saddles, and, with a hearty good-by to the landlord, set off for the city gate. 
As they passed out they were struck with the difference between their own 
appearance and that of the two guides. The latter were Arabs from the hills, 
and were fine specimens of their race. They were handsome fellows, tall and 
finely made, with dark complexions, rich, black beards, which set off their 
small, white teeth ; and dark eyes, that were pleasant as a rule, but could flash 
with anger or grow cold with sternness. Their heads were small, and their 
arms and legs tapered to the wrists and ankles as delicately as the limbs of a 
blooded horse. They were dressed in red, with two bournouses, a white one 
underneath and a black one over it, the former fastened about their heads and 
flowino-down over their bodies. Their lower limbs were encased in lono- boots 
of red Morocco leather, which came up to their knees, and to« these were 
attached large iron spurs. They were magnificently mounted, the horse of 
the principal guide being a splendid gray with a large black tail, and that of 
the other a coal-black mare of the purest blood. 

*' Truly, professor," said Ashton, as they rode along through the open country, 
62 



THE cor.XT/n or mi-: kmd i.iis. 



03 



" W(* look lik(> ii band of captives who have yielded to the i)owers of these 
maoniiieent Ishmaelites." 

The (lay was pleasant, but the country was iininterestiiiu:, and the; travellers 
were not soitv wIumi, late in 
the ai'ternoon, they reached 
Set if, their haltMio^ place for 
the nit]jht. They found a 
tolerably comfortable hotel 
there, and, fatigued with 
their long ride, retired early. 

Setif was in ancient times 
the principal city of this 
part of Mauritania. When 
the Saracens overran the 
country it made a mem- 
orable resistance to them, 
but was at length forced to 
yield. It is now occupied by 
a French garrison, and is a 
place of some importance, 
though it contains but little 
of interest to the visitor. 
It is situated on a large 
plateau a mile above the 
sea level, and is regarded as 

tlie healthiest spot in Algeria occupied by the French. It is fortified, and 
has four streets. Snow lies on the table land around it and in its streets for 
half the year, and during the remaining six months it is enveloped in clouds 
of dust. It is in the midst of a great grain-growing country, and is noted for 
its market, which is held every Sa'urda •. 

Our travellers were off at an ear'y hour on Tuesday morning, as they had 
a long ride before them. A few miles from Setif they came across an Arab 
douar, or assemblage of tents occupied by a portion of a wandering tribe. 
The professor asked one of the guidis if this was a Kabyle tribe. The guide 
replied gravely that the occupants of the tents were Arabs, and added that the 
Kabyles never lived in tents, but always dwelt in villages built of stone. He 
then rode forward, and held a short conversation with an Arab, who came out 
of the camp to meet him. Returning, he told the professor that the douar 
was an encampment of marabouts, who owned the laud from this point to the 
Kubylian frontier. He added that it was customary for travellers to stoj), in 
journeying by such camps, and pay their respects to the sheikh. The pro- 




THE ARAB GUIDES. 



64 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



fessor promptly declared his readiness to conform to tlie custom, and the guide 
rode forward to announce the visit of the party, leaving his companion to 
conduct them to the camp. 

The douar consisted of a circle of tents, about fifty in number, in the centre 
of which was an oval-shaped tent, the residence of the sheikh. The cover- 
ings of the tents were striped brown and yellow, and consisted of a coarse, 




COUNTRY BETWEEN CONSTANTINA AND SETIF. 



thick camel's-hair cloth, made by the women. This cloth has the property of 
swelling up in the rain, and so excludes the water. The slieikh's tent was 
constructed of much finer fabrics, with gayer colors, and at the apex rose a 
gilded ball with ostrich plumes, the symbol of authority. A number of 
fine horses were picketed near the doors of the tents, and the members of the 
tribe were gathered at their tent doors, and gravely saluted the visitors as 
they rode by. 

Arrived at the centre of the camp, the party dismounted, and preceded by 
the chief guide, who was also to act as interpreter, advanced towards the tent 
of the sheikh, who stood waiting in his door to receive them. His greeting of 
them was courteous and kind, but stately and dignified. He invited them 
into the tent, which was richly hung with silk curtains, and ornamented with 
saddles, arms, and gilded boxes, but totally devoid of furniture. Seating 
himself cross-legged on a carpet spread on the ground, the sheikh invited his 
guests to do likewise ; then, at a sign from him, an attendant brought in chi~ 
boukhs filled with mild tobacco, at which all present puffed away in silence for 
a while. The sheikh then asked the professor, through the interpreter, if the 
young men were his sons ; and upon being told the true relations of the party 
to each other, said he had not thought the professor old enough to be the father 



THE cnvsTRV OF Till: K.\r.yij:s. 



65 

of so many woll-orowii sons. He then asked if his visitois were Englisli, and, 
upon heino- told that \\\cy were Americans, expressed his sMrj)rise tliat they 




.N AUAIJ DOl'AR. 



/{£MBLA ^ 



should have made so long a journey to visit Algeria. He had heard that all 
Americans were very rich, and he hoped that Allali had blessed his visitors 
with an abundance of worldly goods. Some more conversation followed, and 



66 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

then, the pipes being finished, the interview came to an end. The sheikh 
accompanied his visitors to the door of his tent, and there bade them a grave 
farewell, and stood watching them as they remounted and turned out of the 
camp into the road again. 

'^I would not have missed this visit upon any consideration,'^ said Ashton, 
as they rode along. 

" Nor I," said the professor. " We have witnessed a perfect picture of 
pastoral life as it has existed since the days of Father Abraham." 

At a little distance beyond the camp was a smaller one, a sort of suburb to 
the larger douar. Here a number of Arab women were engaged in washing 
and cooking. Farther on was a cemetery. The tombs were all of stone, for, 






MOHAMMEDAN CEMETERY. 



however satisfied the Arab' may be to dwell in horse-hair tents during his pil- 
grimage on earth, he must have a covering of solid stone over his last home. 
Several of the tombs were surmounted by stone turbans, indicating that a true 
Mussulman slept below. 

The rest of the day's journey was through a stony and chalky country, and 
over a difficult and tiresome road. Then, as night was beginning to fall, the 
party descended into a ravine, and crossing it, climbed up a steep hill, on which 
stood Bou-Kteun, the first Kabylian town on their route. 

Before reaching the place Professor Moreton made inquiries of the chief 
guide respecting quarters for the night, and was told by the man that the entire 
party must proceed at once to the house of the amin or village sheikh, and 
ask hospitality of him. It is the custom among the Kabyles for travellers to 



THE COUNTRY OF T/I/-: KA li ]'L/:s. Q'J 

do this, for the religion of tlu'sc people eommaiids lliciii to receive s(r:m^ei\s lus 
the messengers of God. 

The guide acted upon liis words, and on entering the vilhige U'd the })arty 
to the house of the aniin. Tliey were received with stately courtesy by the 
village chief, and also with a proud humility. The amin met the travellers 
at the door of his house, kissed their hands reverently, and conducted them to 
the principal room, where supper wius soon serve 1. During the meal he waited 
on his guests, and politely declined their request to share it with them. After 
sup[)er coffee and pipes were served, and then the chief conducted his guests 







BOO-KTEUN. 



to their sleeping-room, and left them with a simple prayer that sweet sleep 
might bless them through the night. 

Bou-Kteun, our travellers found the next morning, is a small mountain 
village, situate about half-way up the '' Red Plateau,'' and commanding the 
pass known as the "Gates of Iron." It consists princii ally of wretched huts 
of stone ; the sheikh's house being the only comfortable dwelling in the place. 
After the morning meal the sheikh took his guests to the summit of the tower 
attached to his house, from Avhich they obtained a magnificent view. The 
mountains were all around them, stretching away in every direction, with 
scores of sharp, jagged peaks rising in dar! -blue masses against the clear sky- 
line. On all sides could be seen the white Kabyle villages nestling among the 
mountain crags, and separated from each other by deep chasms. Fully twenty 
villages were in sight from the tower. 

In reply to the questions of his guests, the sheikh told them that the 
Kabyle villages were united into federations. In times of war and danger, 



68 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



when a village is menaced by an enemy, signals are placed in the minarets of 
the mosque to appeal to the towns of the same party for aid. Thus the news 
of danger can be spread over a large space of country in a few hours. 

The travellers left Bou-Kteun at an early hour, and the chief of the village 
rode with them for several miles, his duties as their host requiring him to see 

them safely on their road. 
During the conversation 
which enlivened the ride, the 
professor drew from the 
sheikh considerable infor- 
mation respecting the Ka- 
byles. The Arabs, the sheikh 
declared, were lazy, and kept 
their wives like prisoners. 
The Kabyles w^ere indus- 
trious workmen, and their 
women Avere perfectly free. 
They did not muffle them- 
selves in veils, and mingled 
with the men in the daily 
pursuits of life. The Ka- 
byles, he continued, did not 
confine themselves to their 
mountains, but could be found 
in all the towns and sea-ports 
busily engaged in trade. In their own country they built houses, were good 
carpenters, forged weapons, gun-barrels, and locks, swords, knives, pick-axes, 
wool cards, ploughshares, gun-stocks, shovels, wooden shoes, and frames for 
weaving. Their weavers and earthenware-makers were renowned through- 
out Northern Africa. They detested idleness, and had comparatively few 
beggars. When the amin' had taken his leave, and turned back towards his 
village, the chief guide, who had agreed to continue with the party as far as 
Kalaa, quietly remarked to Professor Moreton that the Kabyle had forgotten 
to mention one branch of industry in which his countrymen excelled. 

" They are," said he, " the most shameless and skilful counterfeiters in the 
world, and make such clever imitations of five-franc pieces that the French 
E-oumi themselves can hardly tell them from the genuine." 

The road descended rapidly from Bou-Kteun to the bed of a river of the 
same name, which was followed until it fell into the Biban, a larger stream, 
the waters of which are strongly impregnated with magnesia. Then suddenly 
plunging down the side of the cliffs, by a series of frightfully steep zigzags, 




THE AMIN OF BOU-KTEUN. 



THE CorSTliV OF THE KMirLES. 



69 




THE GATES OF IRON". 



the road reaches the Gates of Iron, situate at the end of a sharp turn, where 
a handful of determined men could hold a host iu check. The first gate is a 
round archway cut by nature through the rocks. It is four yards wide, and 
proportionately high. About fifty feet farther on is another similar archway, 



70 OUR yOU.\G FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

and a short distance beyond there are two more, making four gates in all. 
The Americans were deeply impressed with the grandeur of the scenery and 
the strength of the pass. The professor asked the guide if it had ever been 
successfully attacked by an enemy of the Kabyles. The guide made no reply 
until they had passed through the first gate, and then quietly pointed to an 
inscription cut in the side of the clifF, high above the reach of the torrent, and 
which read as follows: ^' L'Armie Frangaise, 1839." 

After passing the Gates of Iron our travellers continued their way for some 
tiuie through a deep mountain gorge, and early in the afternoon emerged once 
more into the open country. Passing the Beni-Mansour, the village of Tha- 
saerth, famous for its guns and razors, Arzov, the streets of which were alive 
with the ringing of the blacksmiths' anvils, and some other towns, the party, 
late in the afternoon, entered the country of the Beni-Aidel, where the vegeta- 
tion began to assume a fresher hue. In every direction they could see the 
white houses of the Kabyle villages embowered in trees and perched on the 
summits of the first range of mountains, beyond which the lofty peaks of the 
Atlas towered to the clouds. A few miles farther on the guide pointed out a 
large amphitheatre formed of rocky summits, at the back of which rose a 
detached mass or precipice of rock, crowned with a small city, whose white 
houses and slender minarets flashed and sparkled in the sunlight. This the 
guide told them was Kalaa. 

'^ It is certainly the most remarkably situated place we have seen," said 
Philip Lee. ^' It seems to be hung in mid-air." 

" Put a scene like that on the stage," said Ashton, "and people would say 
it was merely a freak of the artist's imagination." 

" Well, all I have to say," said Houston, as he surveyed the lofty site, " is,' 
that if I were a resident of this town I should keep a private balloon to go up 
and down." 

Pushing on, the party were soon at the foot of the precipice on which Kalaa 
stood. Then began the ascent by zigzag paths up the steep side of the rock. 
The travellers continued to ride their mules until the first plateau was reached. 
Here the road became so narrow, and lay so directly along the face of the cliff, 
that the professor declared he preferred to trust to his own feet for safety. His 
example Avas followed by the entire party, and the rest of the ascent, which 
was long and fatiguing, was made on foot, the mules and the horses of the 
guides following slowly, and picking their way with caution. The city was 
reached at last, and the travellers paused for a while to rest before remounting 
their steeds ; then, getting into the saddle once more, they rode through the 
city to the house of the principal amin or sheikh, to whom the professor had 
been given a letter of introduction by his host at Bou-Kteun. 

They were received at the entrance to the house by the sheikh himself, a 



THE COVNTin' OF Till-: KMiVIJlS. 



71 



venerable old in;ui, clad in :i wliilc hounioiisc. 'V\\(\ r('{'('|)ti()n was cordial and 
courteous. Tiic sheikh read the letter ol' introduction cai*efull\' and when lie 







'ii' 






§/ %-. 



P : " c^'^'ft^^' 



?^ii 











had finished it pressed it to his lips and forehead, and, placing it in his belt, 
led his guests into the principal room of the house, where they were soon made 
to feel at home. The sheikh spoke nothing but the Kabyle language, but, as 



72 



OVR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



the chief guide was familiar with that tongue, the professor was enabled to 
carry on a conversation with the old man. In accordance with the custom of 




SCENE IN THE GRAND KABYLIA. 



the country, the party retired early. The next day was devoted to seeing the 
city and resting from the fatigue of the journey, and the travellers were enabled 
to see considerable of Kabyle life and customs. 



THE COUNTRV OF Till-: KAini.ES. 



73 



Kahui is ail ancient city, and, unlil^c the inajoiily of l^astcrn towns, is very 
clean. It contains a poj)ulation of three tlionsand, all oC whom are said to he 
rich, and is divided into tonr (jnarters, each of which has its slieiUh. Tiie 
inhabitants liave a well-to-do air, and are busily en_i;a<;e(l in manufactures. 
They make bcnirnonses, which sell well all thi-ou<;h Nortliern Africa, and 
have their factories or au^encies in the jirincipal parts of that re<rIon. The 
travellei's wore much impressed with the beauty of the women of Kalaa, whom 




KABYLE MOMEX. 



they met on the streets and at the bazaars without veils. They were almost 
white, were richly dressed, and were adorned with a profusion of valuable 
jewelry. For centuries the city has been a place of refuge, a sanctuary for 
person and property, throughout all the wild storms of war that have swept 
over the land. Its inaccessible position has protected it; and while the sur- 
rounding country has been scourged with fire and sw^ord, Kalaa has remained 
unharmed upon its lofty rock. 

The sheikh told the professor that the situation of the town had its dis- 
advantages as well as its advantages. Water is scarce, and the inhabitants 
suffer frequently from this scarcity in the dry season. Several large basins 
have been cut in the rock in the town ; but these, while containing a plentiful 
supply of water in winter, are totally dry in summer. Then the inhabitants 
have recourse to the little river Hamadouch, at the- base of the rock. AYater 
is brought from the stream in jars slung to the backs of donkeys, which toil 



74 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



up and down the steep zigzags all through the warm season. Sometimes the 
stream itself fails, and then the people of Kalaa would certainly perish from 
thirst were it not for a hidden spring at the base of the rock. This spring, 
the chief said, had been discovered several centuries before by a marabout of 
great renown. Through the aid of the rich he had. built a fountain over its 
sources, — a small Moorish structure, with two pilasters of stone supporting a 




FOUNTAIX OF KALAA. 



pointed arch. This spring, continued the sheikh, was under the especial care 
of the amins of the town, and the people were not permitted to use it until all 
other sources had failed; then, if three of the amins gave their consent, the 
machinery by which the flow of the water is regulated was put in order, and 
the spring was thrown open to the public. But for the spring the sheikh did 
not see how the people of the town could live during the droughts. Certainly 
Allah had been good to them in allowing Yusef-ben-Khouia, the marabout, to 
discover it. 

The view from the city is very fine. The eye ranges over long stretches 
of mountains, which break down into foot-hills, with wide valleys between 



THE COVSTliV OF THE KAIIVLKS. 



them. On every plateMU or level spot on the inoiiiitaiii-sides, or t\w. lower 
summits, are seen (he white vilhi^es of tlie Kabyles, surrounded by ri(!h 
growths of trees and slirul)l)ery. They are all in ])lain sii>;ht of oik.' another, 




KABYLES ON THE WATCH. 



and the signals and beacon-firas are rapidly passed from one to the other. 
This is the Grand Kabylia, a country not yet wholly submissive to the French 
rule. It takes but a spark to kindle the fires of revolt, and send them leaping 



76 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

from crag to crag to summon the impulsive natives to arms. Yet the inhabit- 
ants are not only warlike; they are industrious as well. In the white towns 
and villages which stud the country are made the ammunition, guns, black- 
smith work, bournouses, haiks, gossamer-like cloths, and jewelry which supply 
the markets of Morocco, Tunis, and the countries bordering the Great Desert. 
Dellys and Bougie are the seaports of Kabylia. 

Professor Moreton and his companions left Kalaa early on the morning of 
Friday, March 22d. They descended the steep incline leading from the city 
to the ravine below on foot, and then, remounting their animals, set out again. 
Their ride on this day was to be but a short one, as they w^ere to halt at the 
town of Akbou, a Kabyle stronghold of great importance. Professor Moreton 
had been furnished by a French official in Constantina with a letter of intro- 
duction to a family of considerable importance in Akbou, and had been strongly 
urged to remain there a day or two, in order to study the customs of the people 
from the most favorable point of view. 

The day was cool, and our travellers found the clear mountain air refresh- 
ing and invigorating. The scenery was grand and inspiring, and even the 
mules seemed aroused to new efforts, and made better time than usual. The 
guides had been induced to continue with the party as far as Thizzi-Ouzzou, a 
short distance from Algiers, and the Americans were well pleased with the 
arrangement, as it spared them the necessity of engaging strange guides for 
the remainder of the journey. 

Akbou was reached about one o'clock, and the party proceeded to the house 
of Ben-Ali-Cherif, the agha or noble, to whom their letter of introduction was 
addressed. Ben-Ali was a lineal descendant of one of the sisters of the Prophet 
Mohammed, and therefore of the proudest Oriental blood. He was a man of 
considerable wealth and of great influence among the Kabyles. He was past 
middle life, of noble and commanding presence, and his manner was marked 
by a coldness and stateliness in keeping with his proud lineage. He received 
the travellers courteously, and, after reading the letter of his friend at Con- 
stantina, begged tliat the professor and his companions would make his house 
their home during their stay at Akbou, and also expressed the hope that they 
would remain several days with him, in order that he might show them some- 
thing of Kabyle customs. He spoke French fluently, and told the professor 
that he had been expecting this visit, his friend having written to him to pre- 
pare him for it. He added that he had arranged a hunting party for the next 
day, and expected a number of his friends to take part in it. He hoped his 
guests would do him the honor to join in the sport. 

The agha then conducted his guests into the principal room of the house, 
where a light repast, consisting partly of French and partly of native dishes, 
was served. A handsome but rather effeminate-looking young man entered the 



THE CO UN Tin' OF Till-: h'ABVr.KS. 



77 



room as tlu» repast l)('i2:an, and takiuii; liis ])Ia('(' at tlic tal)l(', was presented by 
tlie agha to liis i^iiests as his son. Professor Moreton attempted (o draw liini 
into conversation, but the youth answered only in monosyllables, with his eyes 
bent on the table. Noticini:; this, the auha smiled, and remarked (piiotly, — 

^' You must excuse him if he does not answer. It is not from lack of 
courtesy; but because he is not used to talk before his father." 

''That's rather hard on the young fellow," whispered Hoaston to Philip 




BEN-ALI-CHERIF. 



Lee. " Only fancy me as mum as that in the presence of my governor. Why, 
the old o;entleman would think I was losino- mv senses." 

Later in the afternoon the ag-ha directed his son to conduct the strangers 
through his pomegranate and orange orchards, which he assured them were 
worth seeing. He excused himself from accompanying them, as he was obliged 
to receive other guests who w^ere beginning to arrive for the next day's hunt. 
Following their young guide, the professor and his companions left the house, 
and sought the orange groves. The fruit was thick upon the trees, and was 
just ripening. The young man, freed from the restraint of his father's 
presence, now found the use of his tongue, and proved as talkative as he had 
been silent at the table. He asked many questions concerning America, and 



78 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

said he would like to visit it ; but it was too far and there was too much water 
to cross. 

" But you would have nothing to fear," began Hubbard. 

The youth interrupted him with a smile, — " I come of a race that despises 
fear," he said; "but if I should die, or be lost at sea, if anything should 
prevent my returning, it would break my father's heart. I am his only son." 

"When the party returned to the house, they found the court-yard full of 
strangers. Magnificent Barbary horses were grouped about the enclosure, 
handsomely caparisoned, and showing in every point their pure blood ; and 
splendidly dressed and dignified sheikhs and Kabyles of the better class, each 
armed with a long inlaid gun, were chatting with one another and with their 
host. It was a bright and animated scene, and greatly interested the Amer- 
icans. As they came up the agha made them acquainted with the most im- 
portant of the new arrivals, and as some of these could speak French, an 
animated conversation soon sprang up between the Roumi and the true 
believers. One grave-browed sheikh, who had been watching Houston with 
considerable interest, said to him bluntly that American fathers must care very 
little for their sons, or they would never suffer them to go so far from home. 

'^But, perhaps," he added, " they have thought it best that you should see 
something of older and more civilized lands than your own. They must have 
great confidence in the Roumi with the red beard who is your guide ; and he 
must be a very good and wise man to have the care of so many young men." 

During the evening more guests arrived, until about thirty had collected 
under Ben-Ali's hospitable roof. In accordance with Kabylian customs, all 
spent the night at his house, and the court-yard was filled with attendants and 
a number of hangers-on who hoped to receive some of the fragments left from 
the bounteous feast with which the agha regaled his company during the 
evening. The professor expressed his surprise at the readiness with which the 
last-mentioned class were admitted, but was told by the sheikh to whom his 
remarks were ^addressed that it added to their host's greatness to have such a 
throng of dependents. It was very expensive, he admitted, but Ben-Ali was 
rich and could afford it. 

The hunting party was astir by sunrise the next morning, and after a 
breakfast of coffee and light cakes the word was given to mount. The Amer- 
icans were furnished by their host with horses, and each one was given a gen- 
uine Kabylian gun, which was more like a mediaeval arquebuse than any other 
weapon. The stock was flat, and was surmounted by a hammer of flints, and 
the weapon was discharged by a wheel-shaped lock of curious construction. 

"I'll carry the gun with pleasure, out of compliment to Ben-Ali," said 
Ashton to the professor; " but I hope I shall not be expected to fire it. I do 
not think I could do much execution with it." 



THE covsTiiv or riii: kaiivliis. 



79 




BEX-ALI HUNTING WITH THE FALCO.V. 



" And yet/' said the professor, ^' it was with these weapons that the Kabyles 
made such heroic stands against the French, who had the advantage not only 
of the most improved modern arras, but also of artillery/' " 

"Oh, as for that," exclaimed Hubbard, '^ the Kabyles and the guns are 



30 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

well suited to each other; but we ^ Eoumis' would find it hard work to do 
much execution with these old flint-locks." 

At a signal from Ben-Ali the cavalcade swept out of the court-yard, and 
cantering through the town began the descent from Akbou to the plain of the 
river Sahel, where the hunt was to take place. A cautious pace was main- 
tained while descending the steep road from the city, but this was succeeded 
by a brisk gallop when the plain was reached. Leaving the road, the party 
plunged into a low thicket bordering the river, into which a number of atten- 
dants had been sent to beat up the game. 

"Look at Ben-Ali, professor/' said Houston, his face aglow with admira- 
tion. '^ We thought him a fine-looking man last night; but now, in the saddle, 
he seems a very prince.'' 

"He looks well, indeed," said Philip Lee; " but I think his mare the finer 
animal of the two. Did you ever see a more perfect beauty ?" 

The mare of the agha was indeed a beautiful animal. Slender and grace- 
ful in form, black as a raven's wing, and with her delicate veins clearly out- 
lined beneath her glossy coat, she seemed fit only for the service of the "com- 
mander of the faithful" himself. She was caparisoned with a slender crimson 
bridle, and a saddle smaller in size and lighter in weight than those used by 
the Arabs, from which hung lighter stirrups. Her rider bestrode her as only 
a born rider could. He seemed to be conscious of tlie admiration of his Chris- 
tian guests, and turning to them with a smile, patted the head of his beautiful 
steed and bowed low. 

The horsemen rode along in silence until a shout from the thicket an- 
nounced that a wild boar had been started. Immediately a series of yells 
broke from the company, and the whole cavalcade dashed forward as the boar 
burst through the undergrowth in his efforts to escape. The chase was long 
and exciting; but at length the boar, wearied with his run, turned and faced 
his pursuers. At the same moment several large African hounds sprang upon 
him and pinned him to the ground. A huntsman leaped down and gave the 
animal his death-blow with the yataghan, and the first part of the hunt was 
ended. 

The cavalcade now halted for a short rest, after which the hunt was re- 
newed. This time it took the form of a hawking party. One of the company 
explained to the professor that only the secular and religious nobles of the 
country — the djouads and marabouts — have the privilege of hunting with the 
falcon. At a sign from Ben-Ali an attendant approached with a fine bird, 
about as large as a pigeon, perched upon his shoulder. Our travellers noticed 
that the head of the bird was small, his beak short and strong, and his claws 
yellow and armed with sharp talons. Taking the bird from the- shoulder of 
his servant, the agha perched it upon the leather glove of his right hand. 



THE COUNTIiV OF 77//; KAIDIJ'lS. 



81 



The company then rode along lei.snrcly, and in a few nionicnls a lian; was 
started from the thieket. Tlie aglui at once removed (lie liood wliidi had 




^. ^i%''%7v'«> 






THli DISCIPLES OF TuFAIL. 



enveloped the falcon's head, and released it from the chain which held it to 
his hand. Instantly the bird soared swiftly into the air, rising in a straight 



82 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

line, and soaring so high that it seemed impossible for him to see anything 
upon the ground below. The agha explained to his Christian guests, how- 
ever, that the bird never for a moment lost sight of its prey. Even as he 
spoke the falcon paused for a moment in the blue ether, and then, swooping 
down with almost the swiftness of lightning, disappeared in the thicket. It 
was explained to the professor and his companions, as the cavalcade rode for- 
ward in the direction of the bird's descent, that the falcon had found its prey, 
and that its method of despatching it was to swoop down upon it, double up 
its yellow claw like a fist, and strike the animal a sharp blow on the skull, 
which fractured it. When the horsemen reached the bird they found it bend- 
ing over the body of the rabbit, picking its eyes out with its long sharp talons. 

Thus the sport continued for some time, and noon found the huntsmen far 
from the city. Observing that his guests were somewhat tired, Ben-Ali pro- 
posed that they should repair to luncheon. The Americans were a little 
surprised by this proposition, as they could see no signs of provisions among 
the company, or ai?y means of preparing food. As he spoke, the agha 
wheeled his horse, and galloped off towards a grove of trees in the distance, 
followed by the entire party. A ride of about ten minutes brought them to 
the grove, where they beheld a large tent erected, and two fires burning. A 
throng of servants and attendants were making preparations for an elaborate 
repast, and the odor of the savory viands was very appetizing. After a con- 
sultation with the most important of his native guests, the agha ordered the 
repast to be served under the trees of the grove, instead of in the tent, and 
selecting a suitable place, invited his guests to seat themselves. The meal 
began with a soup, which Houston declared was almost on fire with red 
pepper; and this was followed by pancakes and meats of different kinds, 
garnished with eggs or onions. These being finished, the principal dish of the 
meal was brought forward by two cooks, who were stripped to their waists, 
and who struggled under the weight of their burden. They bore a wooden 
dish, on which, covered with a napkin bordered with gold, was a sheep roasted 
whole, and still impaled with the spit. Having deposited the dish before the 
agha, the chief cook seized the spit with both hands, and, placing his naked 
heel against the hind quarters of the sheep, gave the spit a vigorous jerk, and 
drew it from the steaming body. Then the attendants served the mutton to 
the guests. The Americans did ample justice to it, and with one accord 
declared that they had never seen mutton properly cooked before. 

" If I ever have an establishment of my own," said Ashton -to his com- 
panions, " I shall certainly import a Kabyle for my cook, and shall have my 
mutton prepared and served after the manner of the true believers." 

"Don't omit the drawing of the spit, and the blow of the cook's heel 
in the presence of your guests," said Houston, " or you will break the charm.'' 



THE coi'i\'j'/n- or Tin: kaid i,i:s. 



K\ 



Diirlni;; llio nunil champao iic was lilx-rallv sci-xcd (o I he quests, («» ihc sur- 
prise of the AuuM-iraiis, who were uiulcr the imj)r('ssion lha( the Col lowers of 




A KABYLE CIULT), 



the prophet never drank wine of any kind. Ben-Ali must have seen their 
expression of astonishment, for he remarked quietly to the professor that 



84 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA, 

champagne, being unknown to the prophet, was not included by him in the list 
of proscribed beverages, and that the faithful were therefore free to enjoy it. 
It was not " wine'^ in the sense of the Koran. At the close of the meal coffee 
was served in the most delicate of cups, and this was followed by light per- 
fumed tobacco. 

By the time the meal was half over, the Americans began to notice a steady 
and silent increase in the number of the persons present. Around each group 
of the agha's guests gathered a number of natives, who, lying or squatting 
upon the ground, were busily engaged in devouring the remnants of the feast, 
which were supplied to them by the servants of Ben-Ali. Their numbers 
continued to increase as the meal progressed, but the Roumi were unable to see 
from whence they came. They seemed to spring from the earth, so silently 
did they approach and take their places. The professor at length turned to 
the agha and asked who they were. 

'^ They are Tofailians," replied Ben-Ali, calmly. 

"What is a Tofailian?" asked Houston. 

" Know, my son,'' replied the agha, gravely, '^ a Tofailian is a man who 
lives but to eat, and to eat at another man's expense. He scents a feast from 
afar, even as an eagle scents his prey. One of our poets has said of Tofail, 
from whom these parasites take their name : ^ If he saw two buttered pancakes 
in a cloud, he would take his flight without hesitation.' " 

" But why do you permit them to prey upon you thus ?" asked the pro- 
fessor. " Surely, O Ben-Ali, to feed so many must cause a heavy drain upon 
your purse." 

" It is an evil, certainly," replied the agha; '^ but one that we cannot cure. 
We cannot prevent their coming around us, and our religion forbids us to 
refuse them food. I will relate the experience of one of my friends, which 
will show you how adroit these people are in their efforts to obtain a good 
meal without paying for it. One of my friends, a man of rank and wealth, 
once gave an entertainment at his house, to which large numbers of our people 
were invited. A Tofailian, hearing of this, determined to share in the feast. 
He ran to the house, but could not enter, as the door was locked. He at once 
set to work to make inquiries concerning the family, and learned that one of 
the sons of the giver of the feast had recently departed on a pilgrimage to 
Mecca. The man was a genius in his way, and immediately conceived a plan 
for obtaining admission to the feast. Procuring a sheet of parchment, he 
folded it, sealed it with clay, and deposited it within the folds of his turban. 
Then rolling his garments in the dust, and procuring a long staff, he presented 
himself at the door of my friend's house, and sent him word that he had 
brought him a message from his son. The father at once hastened to the door, 
and greeted the seeming pilgrim warmly. ^ You have seen my son ?' he cried 



Till-: coiwTin- or riih: kmivlI'Is. 



85 



in delight. 'How was he? How has he h(>rn(> tho fatii^iU! of th(! journey?' 
'He was very well/ replied the Tofailian, feebly. ' How Car had he gotten? 
Tell me all about him.' ' How can I answer you ?' said the fellow. *I am 
faint with hunger.' My friend at onee led the man into the hall in whieh the 
feast was being served, and placing him at his right hand at the table, bade 
him satisfy his hunger. The fellow needed no second invitation, but fell to 
with a vigor which excited the admiration of every one at the table. My 
friend waited impatiently until the stranger had satisfied the cravings of his 




^^^ 



KABYLE MEX. 



hunger, and then asked, * Did my son send me a letter ?' ' Surely,' replied 
the Tofailian, who had now eaten quite heartily, and was prepared for the 
exposure that was to follow. 'Surely, I had forgotten.' Seizing a choice 
portion of a kid with one hand, and slowly untwisting the parchment from 
his turban, he handed the paper to the father. The fraud was apparent at a 
glance : the seal of clay was still moist, and not a line was written on the 
parchment. For a moment my friend was overwhelmed with astonishment : 
then a light broke upon him. 'Art thou a Tofailian?' he asked. 'Yea, in 
truth, verily,' replied the fellow, choking his food down as he spoke. ' Eat 
then,' cried my friend, ' and may Sheytan trouble thy digestion !' The 



S6 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Tofailian was at once put out of the house, but he had succeeded in his efforts : 
he had dined/' 

A lounge of half an hour followed the luncheon, and then the party 
mounted to their saddles again, and set out on their return to Akbou. Soon 

after starting, at a sign from the agha 

twenty riders put spurs to their horses, 
and darting forward swiftly, soon dis- 
appeared in a cloud of dust. The re- 
mainder of the party also quickened 
their pace, but the flying horsemen 
were far ahead and completely hidden 
by the dust. Ten minutes elapsed, and 
then suddenly a wild yell rose from out 
the cloud of dust, and the twenty horse- 
men dashed like a whirlwind down 
upon the agha's party, their long bour- 
nouses flying in the wind and their 
guns flashing as they brandished them 
above their heads. Keeping their head- 
long pace until directly opposite the 
agha's party, they discharged their 
guns under the bodies of the horses 
opposite, and then wheeling suddenly 
were off again with almost incredible 
swiftness. Loading as they retired, 
they soon wheeled about and returned 
to the attack, firing, yelling, and shout- 
ing, retiring and advancing repeatedly, 
exhibiting the most magnificent horsemanship, and going through every detail 
of an attack upon a hostile force. These movements were kept up with spirit 
until the gates of Akbou were reached, and were watched with the keenest 
interest by the American Roumi. The city gates once reached, the cavalcade 
fell into line, and proceeded leisurely to the house of Ben-Ali, when, after 
taking leave of the agha and his American guests, nearly all the horsemen 
set out for their homes. 

The next afternoon Professor Moreton and his companions left Akbou for 
Chellata. They were accompanied by Ben-Ali and several mounted atten- 
dants. The agha was desirous of showing his guests his birth-place; and during 
the ride he informed the professor that the house in which he was born was 
built by his ancestors several centuries before, and had remained in the pos- 
session of his family ever since. 




KABYLE HUSBANDMAN. 



Till-: covsrin or the K.\jn/j:s. 



87 



It was niolii, and the moon was slli^in^• bri<;litly when i\w party readied 
Chclhita and dismounted before Ben-Ali\s old home. Chollata looked very 
white and still in the clear rays of the moon, with the hu<re rock Tisibcrt risin<r 
above it like a dark phantom. AIthoniz;h it was early in the evening, scarcely 
a sound could be heard in the streets; a deep silence reigned over the entire 




KABYLF, OIL-WORKS. 



town. Dismounting at the entrance to the agha's residence, the Americans 
followed their host through a beautiful Moorish court-yard surrounded by 
wide cloisters, and were show^n into a handsome apartment, where a tempting 
meal awaited them. 

During the evening they were visited by the venerable marabout sheikh 
who presided over the college maintained at Chellata by Ben-Ali-Cherif. 
There are many of these colleges scattered through Algeria; they are called 
zaouias, and are devoted to education and to the gratuitous entertainment of 
strangers. The principal studies, after the rudiments of the language have 



88 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



been mastered, are the law of the Kabyles and the Koran. The sheikh told 
the professor that Ben-Ali bore the entire expense of the institution at Chel- 




HOUSE OF BEN-ALI-CHERIF AT CHELLATA. 



lata, contributing to it every year a sum equal to about sixteen thousand 
American dollars. 



Till'] corMiiv (/F rill-: kmivliis. 



89 



The iioxt (lay, iMoiiday, llu> a^lKl look his uncsts lo vi>It \\\v. college, and 
after they had been served with coflee and pipes they were shown throngh the 
gronnds by the sheikh, who had called npon them on the previous evening. 
The college was a strangely peaceful place, consisting of several huildiinrs 
scattered among the tombs of the marabout ancestors of Bcn-Ali-Cherif. 
Under a handsome dome reposed the most famous of these old-time saints, 
and over it the oak and tamarind trees waved their leafy branches. Through 
the little grove the professors of the college were leisurely strolling, conversing 



f^.if^Y' 




\ KOLU \, Ul M \I VI Ol I X loMB 



in low tones, and here and there the visitors met students seated on the crum- 
bling tombstones, poring over some work in Arabic. 

As they strolled through the town, Ben-Ali informed his guests that it was 
market-day at Chellata. The narrow streets were filled with women busily 
engaged in buying and selling wares of various kinds. But few men or chil- 
dren were to be seen. The agha said the former were at work in the fields, 
and would not return until sunset, and the latter were in the mountains, look- 
ing after the flocks which were grazing there. The women, he added, not 
only performed the usual work of the household to which they belonged, but 
conducted almost all the various industries of the place, such as grinding at 
the mill, weaving cloth, and making vases of pottery. It was a very good 
arrangement, he thought, as it enabled the men to devote themselves entirely 



90 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 







GROUP OF KABYLE AVOMEN. 



to their fields, which were their chief sources of support, and it Avas only fair 
that the women and children should contribute their share to the earnings of 
the family. 

''I have noticed," said the professor, ''that your women enjoy much greater 
freedom than those of the Arabs, and mingle more freely with the men/' 



Till-: covsTiiv OF tin: K.un/.Ks. 



!)I 



"Yes," said tlu> M<;lia, "we o^ivc (liciii ^rcat lihcrlv, csjx'ciall y llic lilx'i-tv 
to work. Still, wo are very carerul ol" them. 'V\w oi-eatcst dellnht of a Kahyle 
woman is to meet her neighl)()rs at the town louiitaiii and irossip with them. 
Yon will notice here, as in all onr towns, that two lonntains are provided, one 
for men and the other for wonuMi. Shonld a man he fonnd at the women's 
fonntain, we fine him a snm ecpial to twenty-live francs. We cannot stop the 
women from gossipino', bnt we try to preserve the men from the demoralizing 
influences of that habit." 

The next morning our travellers bade adieu to Ben-Ali, warmly expressing 
their appreciation of his attentions to them. The agha seemed really sorry to 
let them go, and made them promise that if they ever came to Algeria again 
they would repeat their visit to him. They readily promised this, and with 
many good wishes for his health and prosperity, took leave of tlieir noble host, 




THE DJURJURA RANGE. 



and set off from Chellata. The road led down the steep sides of the Djur- 
jura Mountains, and by many white-walled and red-roofed Kabyle villages. 
It w^ound around the base of the precipice of Azrou-n'hour, on the summit of 
which rose the white tomb of a famous Kabyle saint. Opposite the cliff the 
mountain wall opened, and the road passed through a narrow defile in which 
the snow was still lying to the depth of more than a foot. This, the guide 
told the professor, w^as the Defile of Thifilkoult, and was one of the most 
famous mountain passes in Algeria. In former times the Kabyles guarded it 
with jealous care, and exacted a heavy toll from all travellers passing through 
it. The defile was cold and chilly, and scarcely a ray of sunlight entered it. 



92 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



The guide said it was impassable in winter, as it was almost entirely filled up 
with snow. 




DEFILE OF THIFILKOULT. 



Emerging from the defile, a glorious view burst upon the gaze of the party. 
Four thousand feet below them lay the great plains of Algeria, dotted thickly 



Tin-: cousTiiv of tin: kahyles. 



9:5 



with white vilhi^cs, and aI)i)V(' them I'osc the siiow-capix'd siiiiimits ol" the 
Atlas range, two tliou.saiul leet higlier stilh The road now led downward over 
chains of rocks of niingled flint and lime, })ast a well, called the Mosqnito(!s' 
Fountain, around which a group of Kahyle girls were chatting, and reached 
a lower level where iiourishino; fields of corn and orchards of olives were 
encountered. Then mounting another, but a lower ridge, the travellers late 




FOUT XATIOXAL. 



in tlie afternoon reached the immense fortress erected by the French after 1857 
for the purpose of holding the mountain tribes in check. The fort was not built 
until fourteen expeditions had been sent by the French against the Kabyles. 
In 1857 Marshal Randon made a thorough conquest of this portion of the 
country, and determined to secure the hold he had gained by the construction 
of a military road from Algiers to a place called Souk-el-Arba (the Wednesday 
Market), where he intended to erect a powerful fortress. The site was admirably 
•chosen. It was in the heart of the country of the Beni-Raten, one of the most 



94 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

powerful and warlike of the Kabylian tribes, and at a point where three great 
mountain ridges dropped into the plain of the Sebaou. The fort was at once 
begun, and called Fort Napoleon, in honor of the reigning emperor of the 
French, and the work was soon completed and armed. At the same time the 
military road was pushed forward with speed, and was at length completed. 
The Kabyles paid but little attention to the undertakings of the French while 
they were in progress, but when the works were completed they found that 
they gave their conquerors a hold upon the country which could never be 
shaken off. In 1871, the Kabyles, hearing of the reverses of the French in 
the war with Germany, endeavored to regain their independence. Fort 
National, as the great fortress of Marshal Randon had come to be called after 
the downfall of the empire, was beleaguered by large bodies of the mountain 
tribes. General C6res was sent from Algiers with a strong force to its relief. 
He burnt the town of Thizzi-Ouzzou, in the valley below the fort, relieved 
the fortress, and inflicted a severe chastisement upon the Kabyles. 

Professor Moreton and his party passed the night at Fort National, where 
they were hospitably entertained by the commandant. 

The next morning, Wednesday, they continued their journey from Fort 
National to Thizzi Ouzzou, in the valley below. They found the place spring- 
ing up again from its ruins. New and substantial buildings were being erected, 
and the people seemed to be regaining their former prosperity. 

Upon reaching Tliizzi-Ouzzou, Professor Moreton paid and discharged the 
guides who had come with the party from Constantina. The young Ameri- 
cans were heartily sorry to part with the faithful fellows. They also looked 
up at the dark mountain wall over which they had clambered in their journey 
with regret. It had been a pleasant and deeply interesting tour to them, and one 
that would linger long in their memories. It was over now, and a few hours 
more would find them restored to the influences of European civilization. They 
reluctantly bade farewell to the guides, and watched them ride off in the direc- 
tion of the mountains. 

At noon they took their places in the old-fashioned diligence which was to 
convey them to Algiers. The journey was uneventful and uninteresting, and 
by five o'clock the travellers were once more in comfortable apartments in the 
Hotel d'Orient in the French quarter of Algiers. 

The steamer for Marseilles had sailed from Algiers on the day previous to 
the return of the American travellers, and they were obliged to wait until the 
following Tuesday before they could leave Africa. At length, however, on 
Tuesday, April 2, they sailed for Marseilles in the steamer that had brought 
them from France a month previous. 



chaptp:r v. 

THE YOUNG AMERICAN EXPEDITION TO SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA. 

rilllK voyage IVoin Algiers to Marseilles was pleasant, and as tlie weather 
■*- was warm, our travellers spent most of their waking moments on deek. 
On the first night out, Ashton startled his eompanions by suddenly turning to 
them and exclaiming : 

"Boys, do you know this Algerian trip has given me the African fever?" 




AN ALGERIAN" VILLAG 



The professor, who came up at this moment, glanced at him in some alarm. 
" Are you afraid of being ill ?'' he asked. 

"No, no, professor," replied Ashton, laughing; "that is not what I mean. 

95 



96 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



I am not ill, nor in any danger of becoming so. I mean that the little I have 
seen of Africa has inspired me with a longing to know more of that country, 
and that I intend to gratify my desire." 

" It is too late to return now/^ said the professor. " In a fortnight the 
heat in Northern Africa will be unbearable. Egypt, Morocco, and Tunis, 
the only countries open to travellers of our race, will be practically closed 
against you." 

" I have seen all of Northern Africa that I care for," said Ashton. " My 
wish, professor, is to follow in the footsteps of some of the great African ex- 
plorers; to cross South Central Africa from ocean to ocean. All the time we 

were in Algeria I 
kept thinking of 
the Great Desert 
that lies south of it, 
and of the countries 
tliat lie beyond that. 
I have been reading 
a great deal about 
the journeys of 
Livingstone, Stan- 
ley, Cameron, and 
the other explorers 
of this dark region, 
and I left home 
with half a notion 
to give a couple of 
years to such a 
journey." 

^' It would no 
doubt be a very in- 
teresting journey," 
said the professor, 
slowly; ^'but it 
would be one that 
would try every 
power of your mind and body. It would be difficult, dangerous, and 
enormously expensive. I myself have frequently thought I would like to' 
attempt it, but I should never be able to raise the money necessary to the 
undertaking." 

" Is the expense the only obstacle to your making the journey ?" asked 
Ashton, quietly. 




A GENUINE NEGRO MINSTREL. 



Tin: KXI'liniTION TO SOUTH CllSTIiAL MlilCA. 



97 



"Well, vt's," replied the professor, hesii;itin_u^ly. " If 1 li:i<l the riioncy, I 
^voukl willinfflv inenr the (lan<»;er and the fatiii-iie." 

" Will you go with me if I assume the expense?" continued .\shton. 

" My dear boy," eried the professor, "you don't know what you are talking 
about." 

*' I have not sicken thoughtlessly," said Ashton. "I know, from what 1 




KABYLE POTTERY WORKS. 



have read, the dangers with which both the natives and the climate would 
threaten me ; I know that such a journev would cost a verv kiro;e sum of 
money ; and that the fatigue would be trying in the extreme. Yet, in spite 
of all this, I am resolved, if I can find companions, to make the attempt to 
cross Africa. As for the expense, you know my father left me a large fortune, 
which would enable me to assume the cost of the whole undertaking without 
feeling it." 

"' Granting all that, Ashton," said the professor, " don't you think it would 
be unwise to attempt such a journey merely for the pleasure of sight-seeing?" 



98 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA, 

" That is not my only motive," replied the young man. " I am ambitious, 
professor. I have no taste for a mercantile life, and but little liking for 
politics. In any profession I might enter at home I should have to work my 
way up slowly to a position of prominence, if, indeed, I should succeed in 
attaining one. Such a journey as I propose would make me famous in a year 
or two.'^ 

" You had better think of this matter seriously,'^ said the professor. 

" I have been doing that ever since we landed in Algeria,'^ said Ashton ; 
"and the more I think of it, the more firmly I am resolved to make the 
attempt. I ask you in entire good faith. Professor Moreton, will you go with 
me?" 

" I will think of it," replied the professor. " I have some money to spare, 
and if I accompany you, I shall contribute my share to the expenses of the 
journey." 

" When shall I know your decision ?" 

" On the day after we reach Paris, which will be next Saturday, the 6th 
of April." 

So saying, the professor lit his pipe, and began to stroll up and down the 
deck. 

The other members of the party had listened in silence to the conversation 
between the professor and Ashton. As the former walked away, Houston 
turned to his companion, and said, slowly, — 

" Look here, Ashton, old fellow, it's very plain that you believe in the old 
adage, which says, ^ While two make company, three make a crowd.' " 

"Why so?" asked Ashton. 

"Because," replied the young Californian, "while you are eager enough 
to have the professor for a companion in your grand African exploring expe- 
dition, you have taken good care not to ask any of us to join your party." 

" I was about to lay the whole matter before you when the professor came 
up. Believe me, nothing would please me better than to keep our whole party 
together for the expedition I propose." 

"That being the case," said Houston, "you can have my answer now. I'll 
go with you. My governor has fixed me very comfortably as regards money^ 
and has given me leave to travel where I please for the next three years. All 
he asks is that I shall keep out of trouble and get back home safe. I am your 
man for the African expedition." 

"And you, boys?" asked Ashton, turning to Lee and Hubbard. 

" I must think of it," replied Philip Lee. "To join your party will compel 
me to change all my plans for returning to college. If I go, I shall not be a 
burden to you, Ashton, as I shall claim the right to contribute to the cost of 
the journey. I will talk to the professor about it. I am alone in the world,. 



I 



THE KXrEDITlON TO SOl'TII ('i:\TliAL .U'h'K'A. (,(j 

as you know, and have no one at home to consult ;us to my movements. I 
will let you know my delermlnation hy the time we reach Paris." 

"I will join the party on one condition," said IFuhhard. " I shall have to 
write home for my father's consent, and if he gives it, I will go with yon. Ke 
knows the professor very well, and has great confidence in his judo:ment. I 




A KABYLE FLXERAL. 



the professor decides to go with you, I will get him to write to my father and 
urge him to consent. That point gained, nothing else stands in my way." 

During the remainder of the voyage the proposed expedition was' ener- 
getically discussed. Professor Moreton was astonished to find how much in- 
formation Ashton had acquired concerning the countries he wished to visit. 
He had evidently been a close student of African travel, a subject to which the 
professor himself had devoted considerable time, and was well prepared to 
enter intelligently and profitably upon the scheme he had proposed. The plan 
held out many inducements to Professor Moreton. He was as ambitious of 
distinction as Ashton himself, and perhaps more so in this particular field. He 



100 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

had, given the subject considerable study, and had long desired to rank himself 
among those daring explorers who had made the wilds of South Central Africa 
familiar to modern readers. Here was an opportunity such as would never 
occur. again; and had he been obliged to think of himself alone he would not 
have hesitated to take advantage of it. His studies had made him familiar 
with the dangers and trials of such an undertaking. For himself he was willing 
to brave all, but he was doubtful as to the propriety of encouraging his young 
companions to incur such risks. He argued the matter earnestly with them, 
setting forth fully all the drawbacks to the undertaking; but the more he 
argued against the journey the more determined he found Ashton and Houston 
to undertake it. Philip Lee was rapidly coming to the same conclusion, and 
Hubbard only waited his father's approval to cast his lot with his companions. 
By the time the party reached Paris the professor found that he had but one 
of two things to do, — either to consent to join the expedition or to decline 
absolutely. He settled the matter by choosing the former alternative, and the 
African expedition was thus definitely decided upon. 

"And now, young gentlemen," said the professor, as they sat at breakfast 
on the morning after their return to Paris, " as we have decided upon our 
course, the sooner we put our plans in execution the better. It will require at 
least two or three months to complete our preparations for such an important 
undertaking, and during this time you will have the opportunity of seeing 
something, of France, Germany, Switzerland, and Northern Italy. As for 
myself, I am willing to give my whole time to overseeing the preparations I 
have spoken of." 

We do not propose to relate the adventures of the young Americans in 
Europe. It is sufficient to say that during the remainder of April and the 
month of May they visited portions of each of the countries named above. 
Hubbard wrote to his father immediately upon reaching Paris, and the same 
mail also carried a letter from the professor to the New York banker. In 
reply the elder Hubbard sent a reluctant consent to his son's request, and the 
party was thus complete. 

Thanks to the energy of the professor, th£ arrangements for the expedition 
were completed by the early part of June. It was decided that the party 
should proceed to Lisbon, and sail from that port in the Portuguese mail 
steamer for Saint Paul de Loanda, from which place, or from some neighboring 
point, the march across Africa was to begin. To the expenses of the expe- 
dition each of the party contributed according to his means, but the principal 
share was borne by Ashton. The total cost of the undertaking was estimated 
at twenty-five thousand dollars, of which the professor, Hubbard, and Philip 
Lee each furnished three thousand dollars, Houston contributed six thousand, 
and Ashton ten thousand. As it \yas necessary that there should be some one 



TiiK i:xri:i)iTi<).\ ro sorrif ciisthal AiincA. 



101 



to direct the nioviMui'iits of tlic imrtyand act as its head, (lie vouiiti; men uiiaiii- 
moiisly chose Professor Moretoii as their leader, and |)ledL!:ed tii('m>elves to 
obey faithfully and cheerfully such ordei-s as he niisjjht u;ive. 

While preparing; for the expedition the professor and Ashton made several 
journeys to London, in order to [)urchase some articles that were needed, and 
while there obtained valuable assistance from several scientific trentlemen 
whose acquaintance the professor had made in former years. One or two ex- 




KLINED CHLUCll MEAK BE.NtiUELA. 



perienced African travellers, to whom they were introduced, also gave them 
many useful hints, and assisted thera in procuring the articles needed for their 
outfit. 

At length, everything being in readiness, the party left Paris for Lisbon 
on the 10th of June to complete their preparations in that city. Professor 
Moreton and Ashton had made good use of the time that had elapsed since 
their return from Algiers in studying the Portuguese language, so that upon 
reaching Lisbon they were able to communicate with ease with the people with 
whom they had to deal. The remainder of the month was spent in purchasing 



102 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

such articles as would be needed for traffic with the natives of Africa during 
their journey. Money would be of no use to them in that country, and they 
converted a large part of their funds into cloth, uniform clothes, beads, copper 
and brass wire, and ornaments valued by the natives. In these purchases the 
travellers were greatly assisted by the advice of a merchant of Lisbon, who 
carried on a large trade with the African coast, and to whom the professor had 
been furnished by a friend in Paris with a letter of introduction. 

The preparations were completed by the 1st of July, and the travellers 
were astonished to find what an immense amount of impedimenta they had 
accumulated. As they were to pass nearly two years in Africa, it was neces- 
sary, however, to provide everything beforehand. They intended that their 
expedition should not be merely a meaningless walk across the African conti- 
nent, but that it should be fruitful in observation and research in such branches 
of science as could be attempted by them. Professor Moreton took upon him- 
self the scientific work, as well as the general direction of the expedition. 
Ashton was to take command of the natives they might engage for their ser- 
vice, see after them on the march, and look after the proper arrangement and 
the various details of their camps on the journey ; Houston was to have charge 
of the hunting parties which might be sent out to procure game ; Lee was to 
assist the professor in his scientific work, and take special care of the chro- 
nometers and other instruments; and Hubbard was to assist Ashton in his 
duties. 

For the use of the party thus organized a complete equipment had been 
provided. Each of the travellers was furnished with a trunk of light but 
stout leather, containing a complete suit of clothing, three changes of linen, an 
extra pair of shoes, a pair of boots, four bottles of quinine, a small medicine 
chest, writing materials, fifty cartridges for each firearm, and articles of personal 
use. Three other trunks w^ere filled with a table service for five persons, cook- 
ing utensils, and a toilette set, soap, brushes, mirrors, etc. Ten other trunks 
were packed with clothing, scientific instruments, tools, and other things needed 
for the journey. Thirty cases, of the same dimensions as the trunks, were 
filled with tea, coffee, sugar, dried vegetables, and farinaceous substances care- 
fully soldered in tin. Besides these were numbers of boxes and bales filled 
with the articles which were to constitute the traveller's money after leaving 
the African coast.^- 

The instruments selected by the professor were of the finest quality, and 
were purchased from the best makers in Paris and London. Each member of 
the party was furnished with a pedometer, a compass, and an aneroid barometer, 
the use of which was taught the younger members by Professor Moreton. 
Each was armed with a sixteen-bore rifle of the best quality, a revolver, and a 
large knife. In addition to these five Winchester rifles, an extra supply of 



77//V EXPEDITION TO SOUTH ('EST HAL AFh'ICA. 



103 



Univos, and three (loiihlo-barrelled sliotgims lor li<j,lit ^anie wen; carried witl 



the baggage. 



Everything had Ijeen limited to the amount consistent with j)rud('ncc, but 
the mass of baggage, when finally gotten together, was so great that our 




A JUii^X 



GOVERNMENT HOUSE AT LOANDA. 



travellers were almost hopeless of ever finding carriers enough to transport it 
across Africa. There were still many things to purchase for barter with the 
natives, but these were to be procured in the Portuguese colonies on the African 
coast. 

Everything was in readiness at last, however, and on the 4th of July, 
1878, the "Young American Expedition to South Central Africa" sailed from 
Lisbon on board the Portuguese mail steamer " Zaire," bound for Saint Paul 
de Loanda, on the western coast of Africa. 



CHAPTER YI. 

INTO THE HEA-KT OF AFRICA. 

THE voyage to Saint Paul de Loanda was pleasant and quickly made ; and 
on the 6th of August, 1878, the ^^ Zaire" sighted the entrance to the 
harbor. The steamer lay to off the bar to wait for a pilot, and soon a small 




THE PILOT S BOAT AT LOANDA. 



boat, propelled by two stout rowers, came dancing over the waves towards her. 
Arrived alongside, a powerful negro chambered to the deck, and, producing 
his license as a competent pilot, was escorted by the captain to the steamer's 
bridge. The engines were started again, and the vessel Was soon over the bar, 
and at anchor in the harbor. 

The city of Loanda is the capital of the Portuguese possessions in Lower 
Guinea, and was once a place of considerable importance. These possessions 
104 



INTO Till': iii:.\irr or mrkw. 



105 



are extensive, streteliliiL:; aloiijj; tlic Ailaiitic iVoin the (".hili^^o liiscr (o ( ';i|)(; 
Frio, and extendinir inland for three luindred miles. At first the Porlnirnese 
began to colonize Ang-ola on an extensive scale. They waged important \vai*s 
with the natives, fought great battles, and subdued nations. Tliey contemplated 
establishing an overland route to India, which should extend across Africa, 
from Loanda to Mozambique, and thus do away with the voyage around the 
Cape of Good Hope ; but the })lan was never carried out, and Angola derived 
its principal importance from the slave trade. Tfie abolition of this tniHic 




A.N J 'ALL DE LOANDA. 



ruined the merchants of Loanda, and the city is now falling into decay. It 
])0ssesses considerable trade still in ivory, wax, and coffee, but its glory has 
departed. The colony is rich in copper, and this source of wealth is being 
gradually developed. 

Loanda possesses a population of about twelve thousand, and is well built, 
Avith broad streets, fine stone houses, public buildings, cafes, churches, and jails. 
It contains the ruins of two cathedrals, one of which was used as a college by the 
Jesuits during the seventeenth century, but is now a workshop. In the ruins 
of the other the cattle of the town may be seen grazing. The harbor is spa- 
cious and secure, and is protected by three forts. It is formed by an island 



106 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

lying opposite the town, and generally contains a number of vessels riding at 
anchor. The island which shelters it from the sea was formerly famous for 
its cowries, a species of shell, which was used as money by the natives of the 
Congo region. It is now occupied by a hardy race of fishermen, and contains 
several pleasure resorts, to which the citizens of Loanda repair on their fete 
days to enjoy the music and dancing, which constitute their principal amuse- 
ments. 

The city is the residence of the governor-general of the Portuguese pos- 
sessions, who is always a noble of the highest rank. He is jealously watched 
by the home government, and is recalled after a few years of service, lest he 
should become ambitious of a crown, and proclaim Angola an empire after the 
manner of Brazil. Loanda is also the principal convict station of Portugal. 
The most deserving of the convicts are enrolled among the garrison, and are 
uniformed as soldiers. 

The city looked very white and glaring in the bright light of the African 
sun, and our travellers surveyed it from the steamer's deck with the deepest 
interest. It was to be the initial point of their wanderings, the last link that 
would connect them with Western civilization and home. For the first time 
they began to realize the magnitude of the undertaking upon which they had 
entered. 

Soon after the steamer came to an anchor the professor and his companions 
went off to the city in one of the native boats which hovered around the ship, 
for the purpose of making arrangements for obtaining quarters, and landing 
and storing their baggage. As soon as they set foot on the quay they were 
surrounded by the bearers of palanquins, who noisily besought them to avail 
themselves of this mode of transportation through the city. As a palanquin 
will hold but one person, they were obliged to engage five. 

The palanquin of Loanda is simply a board suspended from two poles, and 
is borne on the shoulders of two natives. It is covered with a carpet, has a 
pillow at one end, is curtained at the sides, and is protected by an awning over 
the top. The person using it must of necessity lie down, as a sitting position 
cannot be maintained without the risk of being thrown out. 

Professor Moreton made his bargain Avith the owner of the palanquins, 
and then the young men began to clamber into them. Houston was the first 
to make the attempt; he climbed clear through the vehicle, and rolled out 
through the curtains on the opposite side. His mishap was greeted with a 
shout of laughter from his companions and a crowd of lookers-on who had 
assembled to witness the landing of the strangers. They were all safely in the 
palanquins at last, however, and the procession set off at a fast walk, headed 
by the litter of the professor, which was preceded by the owner of the vehicles, 
who flourished a large stick with all the gestures of a bandmaster, and at the 



iXTo Till-: niiAirr of airica. 107 

same time clianteil II sini^iilar iTtVaiii, in which the litter-lx'arers joint'd h)U(llv. 
The words of the song, wliich were afterward- transhitcd by the professor to 
his companions, were as follows: 

" Shove them on ! 
But are they good men ? 
No : I think they are stingy fellows. 

Shove them on ! 
Let them drop in the street, then. 
No 1 but they have big sticks; 
And they are brave fellows. 

Shove them on I 
Oh, matar-bicho ! matar-bicho ! 
"Who will give us matar-bicho?" 

This wiis repeated over and over again, as the negroes trotted along into 
the town. The professor afterwards explained to his companions that ^^ matar- 
hicho'^ was the Angolese term for ''kill-worm," and that the natives supposed 
that their entrails were constantly tormented by a small worm which it was 
necessary to destroy by imbibing copious diaughts of raw spirits. During 
their stay at Loanda the travellers came to the conclusion that the negroes with 
whom they were thrown into contact were constant sufferers from this worm, 
as their demands for "matar-bicho'^ were unceasing. 

The party proceeded at once to the house of Mr. Newton, the American 
consul, by whom they were cordially received. He had been expecting them, 
having been informed of their proposed journey thrgugh a letter from Xh^ 
American consul at Lisbon, by a previous steamer. The professor at once 
stated the plans and wishes of his party, and the consul declared his readiness 
to serve them to the extent of his ability. He advised them to secure quarters 
in a house near his own, where there was ample room for storing their baggage, 
and went with them to see the proprietor. They found that the owner of the 
house had several vacant rooms, but that these were entirely without furniture. 
He was willing to rent these to them, to store their goods in his house, and to 
supply them with meals ; but more than this he could not do. As they had 
their camp equipage on the steamer, the professor decided to secure the 
quarters offered them, and a bargain was at once concluded. The rest of the 
day was spent in landing their goods from the ship, and getting settled in 
their new quarters. 

The next day they went with the consul to call on the governor-general. 
His excellency was a courteous gentleman, and received them pleasantly. He 
expressed his surprise at finding them bent on such an expedition, and gravely 
assured them that it was an undertaking full of diflficulty and danger. He 
told them it was more than doubtful whether they would be able to begin 



108 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



their journey inland from Loanda, as lie feared they would be unable to 
engage a sufficient number of carriers for the transportation of their baggage, 
and declared his belief that they would eventually be compelled to proceed to 
the town of Benguela, where it was easier to procure carriers. Upon lookiug 
over a list of the articles they had brought with them, he told them they would 
need at least three hundred carriers, and was quite sure that so many could not 





THE MOUNTAINS 



BEXGUELA. 



be had at Loanda. He promised to do what he could to assist them in their 
enterprise, and ended the interview by advising them to make Benguela their 
starting-point for the interior. From that place they could proceed to the 
Bih^, or country of the Bihenos, who were friendly to th^ Portuguese settle- 
ments. From that region they could work their way to the Zambezi and the 
eastern coast of the continent. 

'' Well," said Ashton, as they left the residence of the governor-general, 
" his excellency does not give us much encouragement. I suppose we must 
expect disappointments at every step of our journey ; but our business is to 
welcome them.'' 

Our travellers remained in Loanda during the rest of the month of August. 
They were cordially assisted by the American consul in their efforts to obtain 
native carriers, but every day made it plainer to them that these were not to be 
had. They succeeded in engaging two followers, however. One of these was a 
native of the Zanzibar country, and was a tall, powerfully made negro, with a 
calm, resolute face, a pleasant expression, and courteous and dignified manners. 
When asked his name, he astonished the party by answering in excellent English, 



iSTo Tin: iii'.Airr of afiuca. lOD 

lie." lie spoke hotli l^iiolisli iiiul l*(»-(ii«^U(.'se, and was also 
aequainted with I he hiii<2:iiaL;(\s ol' several of the tribes tliroiif^h wliose eomitrics 
tlie route of the travellers would lie. He was anxious to <^et back to the 
eastern side of the continent, but had no money. He promised to serve the 
white men faitlifidly, if thev woidd engage him, and to make their interests 
his own. After some discussion, the professor decided to engage him in the 
double capacity of interpreter and overseer of the native carriers they might 
secure. It was agi'eed that he should receive his wages in money upon reach- 
ing the eastern coast, and the professor promised that if the man gave satis- 
faction the ])arty would ])ay his passage from whatever port they might reach 
on the Indian Ocean to Zanzibar. Charlie expressed himself well pleased with 
the terms offered him, and assured the professor, with many bows, that he 
would answer with liis liead for his fidelity to his trust. 

The other person engaged by the professor was an active, bright-faced 
young negro, a native of the country, named Mombee. He offered his services 
as carrier and cook, and as he was warmly recommended by Charlie, a bargain 
was soon concluded with him. He spoke Portuguese and his native dialect, 
but was ignorant of English. 

During their stay at Loanda our travellers were entertained several times 
by the governor-general and other officials of the colony, and made the ac- 
quaintance of some of the merchants engaged in trade with the interior of the 
country. From all these they received much valuable information and many 
useful suggestions, but all agreed in representing to them the impossibility of 
engaging carriers for their baggage nearer than Benguela. Nevertheless the 
effort was made, only, however, to result in failure ; and towards the last of 
August they decided to leave Loanda by the steamer which was to arrive from 
Lisbon early in September, and proceed in her to Benguela, from which place 
they would begin their march across Africa. The governor-general gave them 
a letter of introduction to the governor of Benguela, in which he requested 
that official to render to the American travellers such assistance as might be in 
his power. They were also given, by one or two of the merchants they met at 
Loanda, letters to their correspondents at Benguela. 

The steamer from Lisbon arrived at Loanda on the 4th of September, and 
lay there for two days discharging freight. On the 6th Professor Moreton 
and his companions, together with Charlie and Mombee, sailed for Benguela. 
Charlie watched the transfer of the immense pile of the travellers' baggage to 
the vessel with great interest, counting each piece as it came on board. When 
the last package had been safely stowed on the deck he turned away with a 
sigh. 

"Well, Charlie,^' said Houston, who was standing by, "what do you think 
of our loads V^ 



110 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

" Me think it take heap of niggers to carry them/^ replied Charlie, slowly. 
" Heap niggers to watch, heap to feed, master/^ 

" We can watch them and feed them too, if we can only induce them to go 
with us," said Houston. '^ You must do your best to help us to find carriers, 
Charlie." 

" Do all me can," said Charlie ; " but nigger man very uncertain." 

Benguela was reached on the evening of the 7th of September, but the 
party did not go on shore until the next morning. Upon going on deck they 
found the vessel made fast to a fine iron pier, which led directly to the custom- 
house. During the day the professor obtained permission from the authorities 
to store the baggage of the party in one of the customs warehouses until it 
should be needed for the journey into the interior. 

Immediately upon landing, Houston was left to look after the baggage 
until a place for its storage could be found, and the rest of the party accom- 
panied the professor in a visit to Antonio Ferreira, one of the merchants to 
whom he bore letters of introduction. The Americans were courteously re- 
ceived by the merchant, who offered them the use of a house in the town 
belonging to him, and promised to assist them in procuring carriers for their 
baggage. He introduced them to Silva Porto, a trader who had extensive 
connections with the interior, and who likewise promised them his assistance. 
In company with the two merchants, the Americans then called upon the 
governor of Benguela, and presented their letter from the governor-general at 
Loanda. His excellency invited them to dine with him the next day, when he 
could discuss their plans with them more at his leisure, and in the mean time 
gave them permission to store their goods in th^ customs warehouse during^ 
their stay at Benguela. Having obtained this permission, the professor, upon 
leaving the governor, repaired immediately to the pier, where Houston and 
the two negroes were watching over the baggage. Such articles as were not 
needed immediately were stored in the government warehouse, and the re- 
mainder were transferred to the house placed at the service of the travellers 
by Antonio Ferreira. Having made themselves as comfortable as possible in 
their new quarters, the American travellers repaired to the house of the mer- 
chant, who had asked them to dine with him, and spent a pleasant evening. 

Professor Moreton and his companions remained at Benguela for two 
months. They found the town, which was formerly the chief depot in Africa 
for the Brazilian slave-trade, to be well built. It is a picturesque town, and 
extends from the shore of the Atlantic to the very summit of the mountains 
which form the first steps of the lofty plateau of tropical Africa. It is sur- 
rounded by a dense forest, even now filled with wild beasts, where excellent 
sport could be obtained if the Portuguese cared to engage in it. The arrange- 
ment of the houses in the European quarter gives to the town a very rural 



1\T0 '11 IE ///:.{ h'T OF MiaCA 



111 



aj)|)e;iraiu'e. All are [)rovi(l(Hl with extensive ^-ardeiis and dependencies. The 
I2;ardens are ear(>t"nllv tended, and all tlu; ve<jetables of Kuroixi and inanv 
tropical i)lants are grown in them. The town is provided with large jxdios, 
or conrts, sarronnded by overhaiiging galleries, devoted to tiie nse of tlie large 
caravans which descend from the interior to the coast for purposes of trade, 




BKNGUELA. 



and occupy these buildings for three days, during which time they dispose of 
their wares. The houses of the town are built of unbaked bricks, and are but 
one story in height. The streets are broad, and are planted with two rows of 
trees. Several large public squares and a botanical garden constitute the prin- 
cipal resorts of the place. The town is considered very unhealthy, and few 
Europeans are able to bear the climate. The professor enjoined upon his com- 
panions a rigid system of diet, and required them to refrain from all unnecessary 
exposure, especially at night; and thanks to these precautions, they managed to 
escape sickness of any kind during their stay in the town. 



112 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

Two months were passed by our travellers at Benguela. They devoted 
themselves actively to the work of procuring native carriers, but with indif- 
ferent success at first. They needed two hundred and fifty stout men, and 
these were hard to find. The governor was very active in trying to assist 
them, but he could do but little. At the end of the first fortnight they had 
secured the services of fifty men, and were still in need of two hundred more. 
Antonio Ferreira succeeded in procuring twenty-five more, and the old trader, 
Silva Porto, was indefatigable in his efforts to obtain recruits. At the end of 
the first month he despatched several of his own men northward from Ben- 
guela to the country of the Bailundos to procure several hundred carriers for 
his own service. He informed the professor that he intended despatching a 
caravan of his own to the Bihe in the course of a few months, and agreed to 
undertake the transportation of the heavier goods of the party to that place along 
with his own wares. He earnestly advised his "American friends," as he 
called them, to accept his offer, and set out from Benguela as soon as they had 
procured one hundred carriers, taking with them such baggage as would be 
necessary to the journey, and leaving him to send forward the remainder of the 
bafforao-e. 

" You can rely upon me implicitly,'' said the old trader to the professor. 
^^ I am not accustomed to make vain promises. I am an old man, but still 
tough and strong, and will aid you to the extent of my ability. I have a good 
liouse at Belmonte in the Bih^, and you shall occupy it upon your arrival 
there. I will give you a letter to my agent, placing the establishment at your 
command. My advice is to proceed to the Bihe as soon as possible, and wait 
there till you hear from me. If you should find yourselves in the interior sur- 
rounded by peril, with all but hope gone, try and hold your own, and despatch 
me a letter through the natives at any cost. Keep an even mind, and wait ; for 
within the shortest possible time I will be with you, and will bring help and 
means. I am a man of my word, and will do what I promise.'' 

The professor was deeply touched by this generous offer, and, after reflec- 
tion, concluded to accept it. The governor told them that he had been exceed- 
ingly fortunate in securing the friendship of Silva Porto, who possessed more 
influence with the natives than any man on the coast. The old trader, he 
stated, was extensively engaged in traffic with the Bihe, and was in a position 
to make good his promise. The plan, he admitted, might involve a consider- 
able delay at the Bihe, but it was better than waiting indefinitely at Benguela. 
A much longer delay there might cause the natives already engaged to become 
dissatisfied. Once in this frame of mind they would rapidly desert the expe- 
dition, and thus all that had been accomplished would be lost. By extraor- 
dinary exertions twenty-five additional porters were obtained by the 1st of 
November, and it was arranged that the expedition should start from Benguela 



IXTO THE in: ART OF AFIiKW. 



113 



on the 12tli of NovciiiIht, and proceed to ( ^uilleHLiMies, IVoiii wliicli the 
travelloi's were to make their way to the Hihe. Silva Porto iiifonned the pro- 
fessor and Asliton that they must be prepared for some desei-tions ah)n;i: the 
route, as it was not to be expected that all their men would remain faithful, 




NEGRO VXLLAGK NEAR BENGLELA. 



and the old trader's words were verified on the very morning of their departure 
by the disappearance of three of the negroes. 

Preparations for starting were now pushed forward with energy, the wholt 
party being stimulated by the prospect of a speedy commencement of their 
journey. Loads were arranged for the carriers, and such articles as were 
necessary for the march were selected. The remainder of the baggage was 
delivered to Silva Porto, to be forwarded by him to the Bihe when his 
Bail undo porters should arrive. The Liovernor now rendered the party a very 
material service. He was about to despatch a large boat by sea, to convey 
some stores to the Portuguese post at Dorabe Grande, on the Cuio, and offered 
to send by it the loads that had been selected by the party for the journey. 



114 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

As Dombe Grande was to be the first halting place on the journey, the offer 
was gladly accepted, and the loads were promptly transferred to the boat. By 
the advice of Silva Porto, a considerable quantity of aguardiente, a fermented 
liquor made from a native fruit, was included among the stores of the party. 
The old trader assured the professor that it would be found very useful, as a 
present of one or two bottles of it would often cause the success of a negotiation 
with the natives, where ever/ other species of argument w^ould fail. 

"Keep it from your own men, and give it prudently to the chiefs you may 
encounter,'' he said, "and you will find it better than gold.'' 

Five mules were purchased in Ben;>uela for the use of the Americans, 
who were resolved to avoid walking as long as possible, and so husband their 
strength. 

The morning of the 12th of November, 1878, found Professor Moreton 
and the young Americans busy by sunrise, making their last preparations for 
the start. The negro carriers, to the number of ninety-seven, were assembled 
in the court-yard of the house occupied by the travellers, and at the gate stood 
Houston, armed Avith his rifle, and with orders to allow no one to pass out. 
The mules, prepared for the journey, were waiting before the house, in charge 
of Charlie and Mombee. Everything was at last in readiness, and at seven 
o-clock the governor and Antonio Ferreira arrived, to bid adieu to the party 
and wish them God speed. A large number of Europeans and natives had 
assembled near the house to witness the departure, and as the party moved oif 
they were greeted with a loud cheer. Silva Porto, mounted on a mule, accom- 
panied the Americans for several miles, and at length took leave of them with 
sincere regret. 

"Kemember," he said, in parting from them, "I will do all I have prom- 
ised, and I rely upon you to let me know if I can serve you further." 

V The procession presented quite an imposing appearance as it moved along 
through the open country, after Benguela was left behind. At the head of 
the line rode Houston, armed with his rifle, and carrying a small American 
flag. By his side walked the negro Charlie, armed with an excellent musket, 
which Ashton, Avho had taken a great liking to Charlie, had purchased for him 
at Loanda. The negro was very proud of his weapon, and fondled it repeat- 
edly, glancing at it with admiring looks. Next rode the professor and Ashton, 
each armed with rifles, and accompanied by Mombee, who bore a shot-gun, 
purchased for him at Benguela. Then followed the native carriers in double 
file, Avhile Philip Lee and Hubbard, armed like their companions, rode in the 
rear, to prevent straggling and desertion. The negroes were in good spirits, 
and the expedition moved along at a lively step. 

The day's march was in a generally southern direction, the route lying 
parallel with the coast and at a short distance from it. A halt was made 



isro Till-: iii:.\irr of MincA. 



115 



towards one o'clock in the afternoon lor a luiicli, aiul at ni<;lit \\v' party 
bivouacked in a rocky region. They were olT by sunrise tlie next nioi-nin<^, 
and late in the afternoon reached the Portuguese fort at J)()nd)e. They \v< re 
most kindiv received by the commandant, who, upon readinj; the letter of the 
governor of Benguela, lodged the whole party in the fortress. Through his 
assistance the professor succeeded in engaging a (h)zen native porters, thinking 
it prudent to do so, as it was to be expected that some of the Benguela men 
would desert. 




THB VALLEY OP THE DOMBB. 



The baggage sent around by sea did not arrive until the 16th, and the 
party were thus compelled to remain four days at the fort, a delay at which 
they chafed impatiently. The baggage having arrived, the travellers were 
anxious to set out the next day, but the commandant informed them that three 
of the neighboring sovas, or native chiefs, had sent word that they were coming 
the next day to visit the strangers. He told the professor that it would be 
necessary to receive the visit, as the chiefs would be seriously offended if they 
should start without seeing them, and would certainly give them trouble by 
placing difficulties in their way after they left the fortress, or, perhaps, by in- 
ducing their people to desert ; so, with a bad grace, the Americans consented 
to await the comino^ of the sovas. 



116 



OVR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



The chiefs arrived early on the afternoon of the 17th, accompanied by the 
dignitaries of their courts. They had meant to impress the strangers with a 
sense of their importance, and had gotten themselves up in all the splendor at 
their command. They presented a grotesque appearance as they marched into 
the fort with stately tread, and it required all the self-command of the young 
Americans to refrain from bursting into shouts of laughter as they made their 
appearance. 

The principal chief, Sova Brito by name, was dressed in three dirty and 
rumpled skirts of chintz, of a large flowered pattern, which came down to his 
knees, with his legs and feet bare. The rest of his attire consisted of an old 
uniform coat of the Portuguese army, which, being unbuttoned, displayed his 
naked breast, and a red woollen skull cap, over which was posed an officer's 
cocked hat. 

The second chief was named Bahita, and was also attired in dirty skirts of 
a woollen material, the uniform coat of a Portuguese admiral, a red night-cap, 

and the cap of a cavalry officer. The 
sleeves of his coat came only a little way 
below the elbows; and as the shoulders of 
the chief were nearly half as broad ai^ain 
as those of the officer for whom the coat 
had been originally made, it set upon him 
in the most ludicrous fashion. His legs 
were bare from the knees, as were also his 
feet. 

Batara, the third chief, was the inferior 
of his companions in both wealth and 
power, and his dress consisted of the usual 
woollen night-cap and a ragged calico 
skirt ; but around his waist was buckled 
an immense cavalry sabre, very much the 
worse for wear. 

For the reception of the sovas three 
chairs had been placed in the court-yard 
of the fort in front of the quarters as- 
signed the Americans, and other chairs 
were placed opposite them for the commandant of the fortress and his white 
guests. 

The chiefs advanced, preceded by a minstrel playing upon a miramba, 
from which he drew the most doleful sounds. This instrument was formed 
of two slightly curved sticks about three feet in length, with strings of catgut 
stretched across the curve. Thin strips of wood placed at intervals along the 




WOMEN, VENDORS OF COAL. 



/.V70 Till-: iiEAirr of AiiuaA. 



\\ 



strings regulated tlic notes of (h(> .scale, and (lie sound was inei-eased l)v means 
of a row of gourds placed below the strings. Tiie coinnumdant received tlie 
sovas with grave politeness, and presented them to his white guests, after which 
all seated themselves, the native dignitaries scpiatting on the ground around 
their respective sovereigns. The manner of the chiefs was grave and dignified, 
but relaxed somewhat when the [)r()fess()r produced a bottle of acjnardindc, from 
which each of them drank heartily. J>atara was tlie last to receive the l)ottle, 
and, when he had drained it, turned it u[) with the mouth down, to show that 
nothing was left. He gazed at it for a moment, and then, with a sigh, phiced 
it on the ground by his side. 

A conversation then followed, the chiefs expressing great surprise when 
they learned that the white men had come into the country only to "look at it," 
as they expressed it. Sova Brito then commanded his attendants to dance be- 




A SOUTH AFRICAN RIVER. 



fore the strangers, and similar orders were given to their people by the other 
chiefs. Immediately the sable dignitaries were on their feet, and some girls, 
whom the travellers had not noticed before, were brought forward to join in 
the entertainment. The man with the miramba then struck up a doleful strain, 
and the blacks commenced a series of capers of the most novel description. 

"I say, professor," said Hubbard, '^ can't we get their majesties to dance? 
It W'ould be rare fun to see those old fellows cutting such antics." 

The professor, nothing loth, repeated the request to the commandant, who 
acted as interpreter, and that official translated it to the chiefs. They replied 
in their native tongue, and with the most impressive dignity. 

"They say," translated the commandant, " that such a thing is impossible, 
as it would not be consistent with their dignity to dance before strangers. 
Nevertheless," he added, "if you really wish to see them dance, I think an- 
other bottle of aguardiente would overcome their objections." 

The fresh bottle was produced, and was speedily emptied. Then there was 



113 0^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

a consultation among the chiefs in a low tone. It ended by Batara rising 
gravely and unbuckling his long sabre, which he laid on his chair. The next 
moment he sprang among the dancers with a yell, followed by his brother 
chiefs. The dancers fell back to make way for their sovereigns, and mani- 
fested their delight at such condescension by rolling over on the ground and 
indulging in the most violent contortions of body and features. As for the 
chiefs, they leaped wildly about, shouting and yelling, and manifesting the 
greatest excitement. Sova Brito declared that he was the greatest warrior in 
the world, while Bahita improvised a song in honor of the delightful effects of 
aguardiente. Batara was wild with excitement, and vowed he would cut off 
the heads of all his people with his great sword, in honor of his generous 
friends. The excitement of the chiefs increased with each moment, and their 
dancing grew wilder and more grotesque. In about half an hour they sud- 
denly paused and gravely walked back to their seats. They were too much 
under the influence of the liquor they had imbibed to attempt to carry on any 
further conversation, however, and soon took their departure, each leaning on 
the shoulder of an attendant, Batara's long sabre trailing between his legs and 
threatening to trip him at every step. 

The younger Americans were greatly amused by the spectacle they had 
witnessed, but the professor could not help expressing his regret at having 
given the sovas too much liquor. 

" Oh, you need not regret it," said the commandant. " Drunkenness is a 
second nature with the natives here, and is considered no disgrace. As long as 
the fruit from which aguardiente is made lasts, which is about three months in 
the year, these people are never sober." 

The Dombe Grande is a fertile valley, extending back from the sea in a 
southeasterly direction, and is watered by a river known by several names, the 
principal of which are the Dombe and Coporola. It is thickly planted with 
manioc by the natives, who annually export large quantities of the flour. 
Considerable sugar-cane is raised in the valley, and this is converted into rum. 
The natives understand the use of money, and dispose of their products for 
cash. The valley forms a part of the province of Benguela, and is in fact the 
granary of that section. 

The delay of the party at Dombe was most unfavorable to the negroes of 
the expedition. Several of them deserted, and a number sold their clothing to 
obtain aguardiente, while others even went so far as to barter their rations of 
food for liquor. On the morning of the 18th, it was found that too many 
were suffering from the effects of drink to allow the expedition to resume its 
march that day, and it was not until the 21st that the blacks were in condition 
to take the road again. The professor, in the mean time, had been able to 
engage a few of the natives to supply the places of those who had deserted, so 



INTO Till-: iii:ai{t or AinicA. 



119 



that \\\wn the inarch was ivsunuHl on {ho nioniinn- of (he; l21.st, it was witli fui 



ranks. Tlie Doinhe was loit at ciirlit o' 



tlic niorninLT, and lor two hours 




MUNDOMBE WOMEN AND GIULS. 



the route lay aci-oss the rich })h\in 

towards the foot of the C'angeinba 

range of mountains. The professor 

gave his |)arty an liour's rest before 

attempting to climb tlie hills. The 

ascent was by the dry bed of a 

torrent, and though the range was 

not steep, the expedition consumed 

tliree hours in marching a thou- 
sand yards. Tired and hungry, 

the men went into camp near five 

o'clock ; the fires were lighted, and 

rations were eaten for the first time 

during the day. The mules had 

l)roved very troublesome in climb- 
ing the hills. They had gotten 

along very well on the plain below, 

but when it came to climbing they 

had to be forced up the ascent, so that the professor and his companions were 

obliged to make the greater part of 
the march on foot. The negroes 
too moved slowly, each man being 
laden with sixty-six pounds of bag- 
gage, besides rations of food for nine 
days, consisting of manioc fiour and 
dried fish. 

The camp w^as pitched beside a 
w^ell dug in the sandy bed of a 
rivulet that had run dry. It ^vas a 
dreary and desolate spot, and Hous- 
ton declared it gave him the blues 
to look at it. The well, however, 
afforded Avater enough for their 
wants, and Charlie told Houston 
that that ought to make him con- 
tent, as they would doubtless be 
glad enough to get water of any 
kind before many days. 
The next morning the march was resumed at a little after sunrise, and the 




mu>:dombe men. 



120 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

expedition managed to cover a distance of twelve miles. Water was scarce, 
and the pathway difficult and fatiguing. It lay along the dry bed of the river 
Canga, which was irregular and stony, and very trying to the feet of the 
negroes. The next day, the 23d, many of the blacks were so lame that it was 
impossible to prevent straggling. The negroes who carried the provisions of 
the party were among the stragglers, and were so late in reaching camp that it 
was nearly eight o'clock in the evening before Mombee was able to prepare 
supper, the only meal our travellers had eaten since breakfast. 

Ashton now called Professor Moreton's attention to a new danger. The 
negroes had been given rations for nine days, but as soon as the halt for the 
evening was ordered, they began eating and continued to do so until they 
went to sleep, regardless of the fact that they were consuming more than had 
been allotted them for each day. There was serious danger that their rations 
would be exhausted before reaching Quillengues, the next station of the 
expedition, and that hunger would follow in a country where it was impos- 
sible to obtain food. Charlie was ordered to remonstrate with them, in the 
name of the White Chief, as the blacks had styled the professor, but his re- 
monstrance produced no effect. Seeing this, the professor decided to urge the 
men forward as fast as possible during the remainder of the march to Quillen- 
gues, in order to reach that place before the lack of food should be too keenly 
felt. 

On the 24th, sixteen miles were made, and on the 25th, eighteen. The 
road was easier than it had been, lying now through thick forests, in which 
gigantic baobab trees grew luxuriantly. On the afternoon of the 26th the 
camp was pitched on the slope of Mount Tama. Scarcely were the tents 
erected when murmurs of discontent arose from thp blacks. Charlie was sent 
among them to learn the cause, and reported that the men were hungry and 
demanded food. They had consumed nine days' rations in six days, and were 
yet three days from Quillengues. The professor caused a ration of rice to be 
served out to each one, but this did not content them ; they wanted dried fish 
and manioc flour. These were not to be had, as the stores of the white mem- 
bers of the party were very low, and they had been subsisting on one meal a 
day. 

'' It is about time for me to begin my duties as huntsman of the expe- 
dition," said Houston. " I'll take one of the W^inchester rifles and Charlie, 
and we'll have a stroll in the forest, professor. I may be able to bag some 
game, and a little fresh meat will satisfy these fellows for another day at least.'' 

Calling Charlie, Houston left the camp with him, and together they plunged 
into the forest. The undergrowth was thick, and overhead the baobabs reared 
their lofty branches, and almost shut out the sunlight. 

" What you want shoot. Master Hoosey ?" asked Charlie. 



lyro Tin: iiEAirr of afiuca. 



121 



*' Anythiii<!; tlio^o poor Mack fellows can cat," rc|)Iic<l Houston. "What 
do you think wc will lind here, Charlie, — an elephant, eh?'' 




SOUTH AFltlCAX FOUEST. 



" No, Master Hoosey, no find elephant here, him lib so many miles from 
here. Maybe find lion, maybe buffalo, maybe antelope. Nigger like antelope 
berry much/^ 



122 OZ7i2 YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

For over an hour they wandered through the forest without seeing the 
least trace of game. The sun was rapidly declining, and, as Houston did not 
wish to be caught in the woods by the darkness, they at length turned their 
faces towards the camp. Tired and disappointed, they became silent, and 
moved along slowly. Suddenly Charlie paused and held up his hand warn- 
ingly. 

" Game close by, Master Hoosey !" he exclaimed in a low tone. 

"How do you know?" asked Houston. 

" Me smell him," replied Charlie. "Wind against him dis time; in our 
favor. Be quiet and walk softly." 

Creeping cautiously through the trees, they came in sight of an opening in 
the woods, consisting partly of a small level sward of grass, and partly of a 
slight eminence of rocks. Charlie seized Houston's arm with a powerful 
grasp, and holding him back, pointed towards the grass-plot, where two fine 
antelopes were leisurely grazing. At the same moment, the male animal, 
seeming to scent the danger, sprang up on the rocks, and raising his head, 
gazed anxiously around in every direction. 

"Shoot now," said Charlie in a whisper; "you got him." 

Houston silently brought the rifle to his shoulder, took deliberate aim at 
the antelope, which was clearly outlined against the sky, and fired. Imme- 
diately the animal rolled over on the rocks, and the female sprang to its side 
and gazed at it for a moment. Houston sent a second shot towards her, but 
with one bound she leaped from the rocks and disappeared in the thicket. 
With a yell Charlie dashed off in the direction she had taken, and Houston 
hastened towards the rocks where he had seen the male animal fall. To his 
delight he beheld the animal lying dead, shot through the breast. As he stood 
gazing at it with a feeling of triumph, a crackling in the bushes caused him to 
turn, and he beheld Charlie making his way out of the thicket, literally stag- 
gering under the weight of the female antelojDO. She had been fatally wounded 
by the second ball, but had made one or two leaps into the undergrowth before 
falling. 

"You good hunter. Master Hoosey," said Charlie, grinning broadly. "We 
no starve now. You wait here ; me run back to camp and fetch some niggers 
to carry these antelopes." 

He hastened off, and was soon back again with four of the blacks. The 
antelopes were carried to the camp, where they furnished a hearty meal for the 
men. Houston was warmly congratulated by his companions upon his suc- 
cess, and felt not a little elated by it. 

In spite of this addition to their commissariat, the professor resolved to 
hasten on to Quillengues, as he knew the blacks would soon be hungry again. 
The march was resumed the next day, and continued with energy; and on the 






INTO THE 111: ART OF AFRICA 



I2;i 



29tli of Novenibor (lie (wptulition arrivcHl at (lie fordvss of Qiiillenj^iics, liavlnt^ 
made over forty miles in less than three days. 

They were lu^sjiitably received by the chefe of (iuillen<i^iies, Lieutenant Uoza 
by name, an officer in tlie Portuguese service, and the Avhole |)arty were given 




ARTICLES MANUFACTURED BY THE NATIVES BETWEEN THE COAST AND THE BIHE. 

1. Working axe. 2. Arrow-head for war. 3. Arrows. 4. Arrow-head for hunting. 5. Butt- 
end of arrows. 6. Battle-axe. 7. Hoe. 8. Assegais. 

lodgings in the fortress. Provisions were obtained in abundance, and the dis- 
content of the negroes ceased as soon as they saw the prospect of full stomachs. 
The professor and Ashton, the day after the arrival of the party at the for- 
tress, distributed among the carriers the first instalment of their wages, which 
consisted of a certain number of yards of white cloth to each man. This put 



124 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



them in a thoroughly good humor, and they declared their willingness now to 
go on with the white men, as they saw the latter intended to treat them fairly. 
It had been the intention of our travellers to push on immediately from 
Quillengues to Caconda, and thence to the Bih6, but this plan was frustrated by 
the sickness of Walter Hubbard. On the morning after the arrival of the party 
at the fortress, he complained of severe pains and a feeling of lassitude, and 
before night was down with a sharp attack of the fever peculiar to the country. 
He was ill for over a fortnight, and it was fully the 23d of December before 
he was able to walk about the yard of the fortress. He was faithfully nursed 




AFRICAN RAT. 



during his sickness by his companions, and also by the kind-hearted comman- 
dant of the fort and his wife. 

During the delay caused by Hubbard's sickness over twenty of the negroes 
deserted from the expedition. By energetic efforts among the natives of Quil- 
lengues Professor Moreton was able to fill their places. The commandant of 
the fortress also interposed his authority to check the desertioiis and keep the 
men faithful to their duties, and much of the trouble that might have been 
caused by the long halt and consequent idleness of the men was tluis averted. 

Quillengues is one of the most important of the military posts of the Portu- 
guese in the province of Benguela. The fortress lies in a fertile and well- 
populated valley, watered by the river Calunga. It is rectangular in shape, 
and is defended by a strong palisade and four bastions, the latter being con- 
structed of masonry half way up each face. Within the enclosure are roomy 
barracks which furnish quarters for the commandant or chefe and the soldiers. 

The natives of the Quillengues valley are both pastoral and agricultural 
in their habits. They grow large crops of maize, massambala, and manioc; 
and dwell in huts, circular in form, constructed of the trunks of trees, plastered 



iXTo Till': iiKAirr or afhica. 



125 



with mud. The huts are tVoin teu to liftccn i'cct in (lianictcr, and cadi Ikis a 
door or entrance hirge enough for a man to enter witliout stooping. Th(; in- 
habitants acknowledge the authority of the Poi'tugucsc, hut ncvcrtli(?lcs.s the 




TREE-FERNS OF AFRICA. 



diiFerent chiefs constantly make war upon other native tribes and rob them of 
their cattle and crops. 

The men of Quillengues are tall and powerfully made, very courageous, and 



126 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

fond of war. They are also grossly addicted to drunkenness, a^itarc?ien^e being 
their favorite beverage. They purchase most of the metal articles in use by 
them from the Dombe and Benguela, being but little skilled in the manu- 
facture of iron implements. Their villages and the enclosures in which their 
cattle are kept are surrounded by strong stockades, beyond which are placed 
abattis of thorns to keep off wild beasts. Thorny barriers also encircle the 
manioc fields as a protection against small deer, who are very fond of the young 
leaves of the plant. 

Some of the customs of these people proved very interesting to the white 
strangers. When a native wishes to obtain a wife, they were told, he presents 
to the father of the damsel he has selected, four yards of cloth from the coast 
and two bottles of aguardiente. If the father consents to the marriage, the 
bride is sent back with the bearer of the gifts, accompanied by her relatives, 
and upon her arrival the bridegroom gives a great feast, at which an ox, roasted 
whole, forms the principal course. When a death occurs, the body is wrapped 
in a white cloth, rolled in an ox-hide, carried to the grave which has been dug 
for it, and buried at once. The interment is followed by a feast in the hut of 
the dead man, which lasts several days, or until the provisions left by the 
deceased are exhausted. These feasts are elaborate affairs, and render the 
Quillengues funerals very expensive, as the heir to the estate is required to 
sacrifice all the cattle of the deceased, in order to do honor to his memory and 
give peace to his soul. In the case of the death of a chief there is a large 
sacrifice of cattle. 



CHAPTER VII. 



ADVENTURES IN THK BLACK MAN'S COUNTRY. 



WHILE at Quillengues, Professor M(ireton laid in a considerable stock of 
such provisions as could be obtained, and purchased several oxen and 
sheep, to be slaughtered on the road; so that when the party started from that 
place on the 1st of January, 1879, they were well supplied for a portion of 
their march to Caconda, six days distant from Quillengues. The camp was 
pitched for the first night at the foot of the (iuilleugues Mountains, and the 
next day the party moved through a region of ferns and acacias. No signs 
of game were seen, and at times not a single note of a bird could be heard ; 
while at intervals throughout the day the route lay through woods which were 
alive with birds, the cries of which were fairly deafening. Tlie party camped 
for the night on the bank of a small stream of good water, called the Cuverai, 
and on the 3d pitched their tents by the brook Quicue. During the night they 
heard for the first time the repeated roarings of lions in the distance; but as 
their camp was well protected by a thorny hedge, they paid no attention to the 
sounds. The next day they halted for the night near the village of Ngola, in 
the dominions of King Chimbarandongo. 

The next morning, January 5th, Professor Moreton, wishing to devote him- 
self to some scientific observations, despatched Ashton and Houston, with Charlie 
and Momb^e as interpreters, to visit the sable king, and invite him to the camp. 
The "embassy," as Ashton laughingly styled it, set out immediately after 
breakfast, and soon reached the village of the king, — a large collection of huts 
enclosed by a double stockade. The space enclosed is large enough to contain 
the entire population of the country, w^hich gathers there with its flocks and 
herds in time of war. A little stream called the Cutota runs through the 
village, and aifords it an ample water-supply in case of a siege. 

Ashton and Houston were requested by the negroes on duty at the entrance 
to the town to wait until their approach could be announced to the king, to 
whom a messenger was immediately despatched. In about a quarter of an 
hour they w-ere permitted to enter the enclosure, accompanied by their atten- 
dants, and were conducted towards the royal hut. 

The king came out of his dwelling at their approach, attended by several 

127 



128 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



of his wives and a number of his people. He was a tall, powerful man, and 
was clad in a lon^ waistcoat, over which he wore a leopard skin. His breast 




Illi C'UVEliAI. 



was bare, and a number of amulets were suspended from his neck. His arms 
consisted of two formidable-looking clubs and an assegai, or iron-headed javelin. 
He received his visitors in front of his hut, and the interview took place in 



ADVi':\Trh'i:s /.v rii/': iilack maxs corsTHV. 



129 



the broiling sun. Tlie youii^ Aiiu'ricans were cadi |)r()vi(l('(l wiih an uinl)rclla 
to shelter them from the heat, and had bronght an extra one as a present for 
his majesty. This was at once delivered to him by Ashton, and had the effect 
of putting the sable monarch in an excellent humor.^ Several other presents 
had also been sent by the professor, 
among which were a couple of muskets, 
a package of gun-flints, and some gun- 
powder. The king received them gra- 
ciously, and, coming straight to the 
point, asked what his visitors desired 
in return for their valuable gifts. He 
was profoundly astonished when Ash- 
ton informed him that they wished for 
nothing but his friendship; that he and 
his white brothers in the camp had 
heard of Chimbarandongo as a great 
king, and in passing through his coun- 
try wished to be good friends with him. 
When the king was informed that their 
only object was to cross the continent 
and reach the great water on the other 
side, he was still more astonished. He 
told Ashton that he and his brothers 
must be brave men to undertake such 

a journey, and added that while he would be their friend, they would meet 
many bad people after they left his country. Ashton then invited him to go 
with him to the camp to see his companions, and the king at once prq^ared to 
accept the invitation. The young men thereupon desired him to bring with 
him a vessel in whicii to put some aguardiente, and the king brought from his 
hut an old pint bottle; but Houston told him i: was too small, and begged 
him to bring one that would hold three times as much. The king expressed 
his surprise at such generosity, and brought out a gourd capable of holding 
about a gallon. 

Chimbarandongo then set off with the young men, accompanied by three 
of his wives, his daughters, and a number of his people. All were unarmed, 
to show the confidence with which the young envoys had inspired them. 

When they reached the camp the professor was still engaged in his meteor- 
ological observations, and the monarch and his attendants were enthusiastic in 
their admiration of the thermometers and barometers, evidently regarding the 
use which was being made of the instruments as a species of conjuring. 

The king informed the professor that since he had been treated so gener- 

9 




KING CHIMBARANDO.NGU. 



130 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



ously by the white men, he had ordered his people to bring an ox to the camp 
as a present from himself; and as he spoke two of his men came into the camp, 
leading a fine ox by a rope. The ox was tied to a tree, and after the instru- 
ments had been put away, the king desired Professor Moreton to slay the 
animal with his own hand. This request somewhat embarrassed the professor, 
but the animal relieved him from complying with the king's request by break- 
ing loose and making for the woods. At the same moment Houston caught 
up his rifle and, telling the king he meant to hit the ox between the eyes, fired. 
The animal fell dead in its tracks, and the king hastened over to it to examine 
the wound. When he found that the ball had entered exactly between the 




ENCAMPMEXT OP THE EXPEDITIO-V NEAR CHOfBARANDOXGO'S VILLAGE. 



eyes, he was wild with delight, and embraced Houston repeatedly, telling him 
he was a great warrior for so young a man. 

The gourd brought by the visitors was now filled with aguardiente, and the 
king, his wives, and his chief attendants proceeded without delay to partake 
of it, declaring that they were terribly thirsty. During the day they managed 
to consume the entire gallon, and were consequently very tipsy when the time 
came for their departure. 

During the afternoon a severe thunder-storm, accompanied by heavy rain, 
broke over the camp, and lasted until nearly dark. The king, his women, and 
a few of his chief attendants took refuge in the hut of the Americans, and 
when they were all safely under shelter, Chimbarandongo turned to his fol- 
lowers, and with half drunken gravity made them a speech, telling them that 



r\D\'i:yTr/n:s ix riii: iu.ack mass coiwrRv. 



i;n 



the white nuMi hv their eonjuriuo- with the iiistniineiils tliey had seen, had 
caused the rain to lall, and had thus conferred a great blessing on the eountry, 
which was sntTering wvy nnieh from the drought. Professor iNForeton there- 
upon endeavored to exphiin to the monarch that neither he nor any of his 
companions had any such great powers, but that God alone sent the rain. The 
king, however, cut him short by declaring loudly that if it stopped raining he 
would tind out the person who was responsible for it, and have him put to 
death. When the rain finally ceased, however, his majesty was too much 
under the influence of aguardiente to remember his threat. He departed for 
his home about dark, with the most profuse i)rotestations of friendship for liis 




THE NEGROES OF THE PARTY CONSTRUCTING HUTS IN THE ENCAMPMENTS. 



good friends, the white men. As he was too much intoxicated to walk, he was 
lifted on the back of one of his followers, who was also half-seas over, and was 
steadied by two others who walked by the side of his bearer. The whole 
party reeled about in the most comical manner, and it seemed that the king 
would be thrown to the ground at every step. They managed to get out of 
the camp in safety, however, and their shouts and laughter could be heard for 
some time after they had taken their departure. 

The next morning the camp was astir at an early hour, and breakfast was 
soon despatched. The men were then gotten in marching order, and the 
journey was resumed. King Chimbarandongo now made his appearance to 
take leave of his white friends. He was entirely sober, in an excellent humor, 
and his . conversation showed him to be a man of much more wisdom than he 



132 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 




had appeared on the previous evening. He told the professor that he was by 
no means a believer in sorcery, and did not believe that the rain of the 
previous night was in any way due to the conjuring of the whites; but that 
it had suited his purpose to appear to do so, as it gave him a firmer hold upon 
his people, who were very superstitious. He was the good friend of the white 
men, he said, because it was to his interest to be so. The Portuguese supplied 
him with the cloth which covered him and the arms and ammunition which 

enabled him to hold his own 
against his enemies. " With- 
out the whites," said the king, 
"we are poorer than the 
beasts, as they possess the 
skins we are forced to rob 
them of; and those blacks 
are great fools who do not 
seek to gain the friendship 
of the white men." 

The travellers parted from 
the king with much more 
respect for him than they had 
felt on the previous evening, 
and the king assured them 
that should they need his aid 
while in his dominions they had but to notify him. He took Houston aside 
and solemnly gave him a copper coin, which he told him was a " great medi- 
cine," and asked him to wear it around his neck, as it would preserve him 
from harm. When the party had gotten fairly on the march, Houston examined 
the coin, and found it to be an old and very green American half-cent piece 
of the year 1800. 

Two days' steady marching, on the first of which a deep, swollen river was 
crossed by a dangerous foot-bridge, the mules and oxen being forced to swim the 
torrent, brought them to Caconda, the last Portuguese fortress in the interior 
of Benguela. The fortress was reached late in the afternoon of the 7th, and 
the travellers were received by the provisional chefe, a mulatto, who commanded 
in the absence of the permanent chefe, then on a visit to Benguela. He assigned 
several huts within the enclosure of the fortress to the Americans and their 
men, and assured them they would have no difficulty in purchasing food from 
the natives. 

While at Caconda, Professor Moreton fell sick of a slight attack of fever. 
The disease was much milder than it had been in Hubbard's case, and they 
were delayed only five days. At the end of that time, although feeling very 



SKELETON OF A HUT. 



rii)\'i:\TL:h'i:s j\ rni: ulack man^s counthv. 




SPECIMEN OF THE HUTS USED BY THE EXPEDITION. 



weak and lani^uid, tlic lu'orcssor decided to push on (owards the \\\\\(\ Calliii;^ 
his yoiino' coinpanioiis about hiiu on tiie inornini;- of danuarv I'Jih, he tohl 
thiMii of his intention to resume the niareli the next (hiy, and urL;('(l tlietn to 
increased vioihince and cau- 
tion in dealino- witli their 
own men, and with the na- 
tives they should encounter. 
" Heretofore, boys," he 
said, " we have been to a 
certain extent under the 
protection of the Portu- 
guese, and have been travel- 
ling among tribes more or 
less subject to them. We 
have now reached the limits 
of the Portuguese authority, 
and our route hereafter will 
lie among tribes which pos- 
sess very bad reputations 

for treachery and dishonesty. Our own men may be somewhat harder to 
manage, as they will no longer fear being reported to the white officials. 
We are now entirely upon our own resources, and dependent upon our prudence 
and determination for our safety and success." 

Two days after leaving Caconda the expedition reached the great village of 
Quingola. Several native villages were passed on the way, several deep rivers 

were forded, and on i\\Q first day nu- 
merous venomous snakes were encoun- 
tered, and many were killed by the 
professor and his companions. Quin- 
gola was reached on the afternoon of 
the 15th of January. The native chief 
^ received the party kindly, and sent 
them food, for which payment was 
made with colored cloth. The profes- 
sor's fever returned during the 16th, 
and the march was not resumed until 
the next day, when the expedition set out again. The professor found it so 
hard to manage his mule in his weak condition that he decided to ride one of 
the oxen. Philip Lee and Mombee rode by him to attend to his wants, and 
the party made several halts during the day to allow the invalid to rest. In 
this way they were two days in reaching the village of Capoco, the powerful 




WAN AND WOMAN OF THE HUAMBO. 



134 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



son of the native chief of the Huambo country. Capoco was the terror of the 
surrounding country. He was twenty-five years old, in the full flush of health 
and manly vigor, and had carried his victorious arms in every direction. Two 
years before the arrival of the Americans in his country he had even ventured 
to attack Quillengues itself, and had carried off a number of captives from that 
place. The travellers were, therefore, very uncertain as to the manner in which 
he would receive them, and upon arriving at his village awaited his appear- 
ance with considerable anxiety. To their surprise and delight, he came to 
meet them with extended hands, and welcomed them cordially. He invited 
them into his village, and gave up one of his own houses for the use of the 




TOMB OF A NATIVE AFRICAN CHIEF. 



white travellers, and when he heard that the professor was ill sent him a 
couple of fowls. In return for this civility, Ashton presented the chief with 
a couple of pieces of striped cloth and two bottles of aguardiente, which pleased 
him very much. Soon after this a number of young girls brought baskets of 
food for the negroes of the party. Professor Moreton was not entirely satisfied 
with the conduct of Capoco, however, as he could not understand why so noto- 
rious a freebooter should be so friendly with strangers without apparent cause. 
He therefore cautioned his companions to be constantly on their guard, and to 
keep a sharp watch over their men, in order to avoid being taken by surprise 
in the event of any sudden treachery on the part of the chief or his people. 

The result proved that the professor's suspicions were unfounded. Cap6co, 
although a fierce and cruel warrior when on the war-path, was a man of intel- 
ligence, and was very moderate in the indulgence of his appetites. He pos- 
sessed a certain nobleness of character, and could be generous when he chose. 



ADVENTURES L\ THE liLACE ^fA^•S COVSTRV. 135 

For roiusoiis of liis own Ik* chose to he a couilcoiis and ocncroiis liost to liis 
white visitors, and treated tlieni with *i;reat kinihiess (lnrin<; tlieir stay with 
him, wliieli, in eonseijuenee of the professor's feeble condition, lasted initil the 
18th of January. 

The customs of the lluambo country interested our travellers very much. 
They found that the language is the same as that spoken by the Nanos, or 
people of Caeoiida and the Quillengues. The Huambos are tolerably good 
workers in iron, and make their own arrows, assegais, and axes, but purchase 
their other implements from caravans from the coast. The men are \vell made, 
tall in stature, and are possessed of great strength, courage, and endurance. 
They dress their hair very elaborately, the work of arranging it in proper 
shape often occupying two or three days; but, in compensation for this, these 
triumphs of the barber's art last for several months. The women adorn their 
hair with a profusion of glass beads ; and as the travellers liad these among 
their stores, they were able to make many friends by judicious presents to the 
fair sex. The young girls, as long as they remain virgins, wear w'ooden 
bangles upon both ankles, or upon the left ankle only. 

In the central 2)art of the village was a curious edifice, consisting of a large 
hut with a thatched roof. In the centre of the building was a stone hearth, 
on wdiich a fire was kept burning in spite of the extreme heat of the weather. 
This, the travellers were told, was the '^ Conversation House,'^ and they were 
informed that a similar establishment existed in every village of the tribe. 
In it the inhabitants assembled for gossip and social intercourse, and seated 
on blocks of wood around the fire indulged in tales of adventure, love, and 
war. 

The travellers noticed that although Capoco was the owner of a very large 
number of female slaves, he had but a few wives. One day, while conversing 
with him, Ashton expressed his surprise at this, but the 
chief told him that he did not think it good for a man to 
" marry too much.'' He pointed out a tall, handsome girl 
amono^ his slaves, and told Ashton that she was the 
daughter of a chief of Quillengues, and that he had cap- 
tured her during his attack on that place two years before. 
He added that he was very much in love with her, and 
would like to marry her. 

" Then why do you not do so?" asked Ashton. " Her 
fate is in your hands." capoco s sweetukart. 

^'I cannot do it," replied Capoco, drawing himself up 
proudly. '' She is my slave by right of war ; but so long as her father shows 
a disposition to ransom her I must respect her, and she shall be respected, for 
I intend to deliver her up in the same state in which I took her. When her 




136 



OVR YOUNG FOLKS JN AFRICA. 



father ransoms her," he added with a smile, " I will demand her in marriage ; 
and if he does not give her to me, I will go and take her again." 

" But if you are anxious to marry her," said Ashton, " why not propose to 
her father to relinquish the ransom, if he will give her to you for a wife?" 

" That would be bad policy," replied the chief, laughing. " By doing as I 
intend, I shall get both the ransom and the girl." 

In the morning before their departure from Capoco's village, some of the 
negroes became very much discontented, and demanded tlieir pay, as they de- 
clared their intention to leave the expedition. Finally the number of mal- 
contents increased to twenty. Ashton and Houston were unable to overcome 
the discontent either by argument or authority, and being unwilling to resort 
to severe measures, sought the professor to ask his advice. Capoco was with 
the professor at the time, and at once declared he would settle the matter for 





:-! 4 

ANT-HILLS FOUND BETWKKN THE COAST AND THE UIHE. 

1 and 2 are a few inches above the ground. 3 and 4 are from three to seveo feet high. 

his white friends. He advised Ashton to pay to each of the negroes a small 
portion of his wages in cloth, although they were not entitled to payment 
until the Bih6 was reached. When the cloth had been distributed, Capoco 
strode out before the blacks, and addressing them in severe tones, reminded 
them that they had sworn to conduct the white men safe to the Bihe. He told 
them they must keep their ward, and warned them that if any deserted from 
the expedition, he would have him seized and put to death. This determined 
course put an end to the trouble for the time. 

Before leaving Caconda, Professor Moreton had selected ten of the negroes 
whom he deemed the most reliable, and had armed them with muskets. He 
was now well pleased to find that none of these were among the mutineers. 

Although the professor was still suffering with the fever, the party left 
Capoco's village on the morning of the 19th of January, marching in the direc- 
tion of the country of the Sambo. Towards noon they reached the village of 
Chacaquimbamba, a petty chief of the Huambo. A considerable crowd of 



r\n\' EN TURKS I\ THE III.ACK MAS'S COUSTIiV. 



137 



natives had assembled at the eiitnniee to tlie vilI;iL;-e; l)iit as (-upoco liad warned 
the professor to beware of these people, who, he said, were <i^reat thieves, the 
party passed by the village without haltini»;. They had seareely gone fifty 
yards, however, when a commotion was heard at the rear of the column. 
Charlie was sent back to ascertain the cause, and returned saying that the men 
of the village had taken away the gun of one of the negroes of their party, who 
had straggled behind, and had also stolen a she-goat and a sheep, which they 
had taken into the village. 

Not caring to trouble the professor, and firmly resolved upon his course, 
Ashton ordered the men to move on slowly, and taking with him Houston and 
Charlie and the nine armed 
negroes, hastened back to the 
village, at the entrance to 
which the natives were still 
standing. Using Charlie 
as interpreter, he told the 
people they must restore the 
property they had stolen. 
They answ^ered him with 
threatening cries and mur- 
murs, encouraged, no doubt, 
by the fiict that they were 
about tw^o hundred to thir- 
teen. The blood of the 
young American was thor- 
oughly aroused, however, 
and he was determined to 
teach the negroes a lesson. 
Retaining Charlie and two 
of the armed negroes, he 

ordered Houston to enter the village with the others, and recover the stolen 
property. Houston needed no urging, and at once dashed into the village at a 
trot, followed by the seven negroes. At the same time Ashton threw himself 
with his two men between the natives and the entrance to the town, and the 
little party wdth cocked guns stood prepared to cover the movements of their 
companions. The audacity of the proceeding struck the natives with dismay, 
and they drew back some distance from the entrance, and contented themselves 
with angry murmurs. In a short wdiile Houston and his party returned, leading 
the sheep and the goat; the gun, however, could not be found. Ashton was not 
willing to expose his men to further risk, and threatening the natives wnth the 
vengeance of Cap6co if the gun was not returned, hastened back to join the rest 





WEAPONS AND IMPLEMKNTS OF NATIVE AFUICAN MANUFACTURE. 

1. Pipe. 2, 2. Knives. 3, 3. Tomahawks. 



138 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

of the expedition J which had by this time gotten some distance beyond the village. 
As soon as he reached the column he ordered MoQibee to make a circuit around 
the place, and to hasten back to Capoco's village and inform him of their ad- 
venture. He was then to rejoin them at the town, where they were to halt for 
the night. Mombee at once set out on his journey, and the party continued 
their march. At three o'clock they arrived at the village of Quimbungo, the 
uncle of Capoco, by whom they were hospitably received. When told by 
Ashton of the adventure at the little village they had passed, the chief begged 
that his white friends would not let their anger fall upon Chacaquimbamba, 
and promised that the stolen gun should be returned the next day. 

Towards sunset Cap6co and Mombee arrived at Quimbungo. The chief 
was very indignant at the affront that had been put upon his late guests, and 
assured the professor that not only should the gun be restored the next day, 
but that the chief of the village should be put at his disposal, in order that he 
might inflict upon him such punishment as he should see fit. 

Capoco was off the next morning before the travellers were up, and about 
noon returned, bringing with him Chacaquimbamba and the stolen gun. The 
gun was returned, and the village chief humbly asked pardon of the professor, 
which was graciously granted. Chacaquimbamba then completed his atone- 
ment by presenting to the professor two fine sheep. Then he was suffered to 
depart, after having been sternly reprimanded by Capoco. In the afternoon 
Capoco took his leave, after warmly recommending his friends to the care of 
his uncle. As he shook hands with Ashton he slapped him on the back 
heartily, and cried, — 

"You are a brave fellow. You did right yesterday. Take my advice, 
and never give way to the black men. You must face them boldly, no matter 
how great the odds." 

The travellers were off the next morning for the country of the Sambo, 
which they entered the next day, and at three o'clock on the 22d of January 
they reached the village of the native chief of the Dumbo. This chief, Capoco 
had told the professor, was a vassal of the king of the Sambo, and was ruler 
over a number of villages and hamlets besides the one in which he dwelt. 
Capoco added that he was very treacherous, and advised the professor to watch 
him closely in all his dealings with him. 

Dumbo received the travellers with courtesy, and begged them to accept 
quarters for their whole party in the village, which offer was promptly 
accepted. The professor, as soon as he had seen his party in safe quarters, 
sent the chief a present of three bottles of aguardiente. Dumbo accepted the 
gift, but, contrary to the laws of African hospitality, failed to offer the party 
any food. The professor and Ashton endeavored to purchase flour, but none 
of the natives would sell an v. 



Anyi:.\Tr/n:s i.\ rm-: iu.ack .1/1. v\ corsruv. 



139 



"This Is very sti-aiiL;('," said Profcsx)!- Morctoii U) Aslitoii mid Houston. 
"It does not accord with the courteous maimer oC the chiei' when he received 
US. It mav be that \w means to i;ive us troul)Ie; so we had better be on our 
ouard." 

"I will caution Charlie," said Houston, "to keep a strict watch over our 
bhick })eo|)le, and keep them in their quarters as much as possible. Hubbard 
and Lee had better be among them off and on until they go to sleep." 

Tiiese orders were given, and extra vigilance was observed by the whole 
party during the remainder of the day and evening. 

Towards eight o'clock, the professor and liis companions, having partaken 
of a frugal supper, were gathered in the hut assigned them by the chief. 
Professor Moretou, though still somewhat languid, w^as beginniug to recover 




DUMBO S WIVES. 



from the effects of the fever, and was busily engaged in writing up the journal 
of the expedition. The other members of the party were lounging about the 
room, conversing with Charlie, who was relating to thera some of his African 
experiences. Suddenly the door was throw-n open, and Dumbo entered, fol- 
lowed by five of his wives, a negro named Palanca, who was his principal 
adviser, or minister, and another negro, whom he presented as Cassoma, the 
chief of a neighboring village, w^ho had come to visit him. Although sur- 
})rised by this unceremonious intrusion, the professor requested the new-comers 
to be seated, and calling upon Charlie to act as interpreter, entered into con- 
versation with them. Dumbo was courteous for a while, but evidently ill at 
ease. Cassoma said but little, but regarded the whites with a cold, sinister 
expression. This attracted the attention of Philip Lee, who leaned over to 
Ashton, and said in a low tone, — 



140 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



"Keep your eye on Cassoma, Ashton. I don't like his looks. The fellow 
means to give us trouble." 

"You right, young gentleman," said Charlie, who had overheard the 
remark. " Me see it in him eye. He one bad man." 

Cassoma now interrupted the conversation between the professor and 
Dumbo, and looking the former full in the face, said coldly, — 

" We did not come here to talk, or to waste time about these people's 
affairs." Then turning to Dumbo, he exclaimed, sharply, " We want aguar^ 

diente, as you know, so tell the 
white man to give it to us." 

Dumbo, who seemed much 
under the influence of his evil- 
minded friend, repeated Casso- 
ma's words to the professor. 

" Dumbo," said Professor 
Moreton, sternly, " you have 
treated us badly. You are the 
first chief who has let us come 
into his village and sent us to 
bed hungry. We gave you 
three bottles of aguardiente, but 
you sent us no food. Had you 
done so, I would have given 
you more liquor ; but now you 
shall not have another drop." 

Dumbo was embarrassed by 
this reply, and endeavored to 
explain his conduct; but Cas- 
soma cut him short, and point- 
ing to a cask of aguardiente 
standing in a corner of the room, exclaimed, — 

" White men, we are many in this village, and you are few. We intend 
to have what we want, and if you do not give it to us we shall help our- 
selves." 

" You will do so at your peril," said Ashton, coldly, looking him full in 
the face. " We are not afraid of you, and you will get no liquor here." 

Cassoma regarded the young man in silence for a moment. Then, breaking 
into an insulting laugh, he cried, — 

" We are men. You are a boy. If you make me angry I will feed my 
dogs with you." 

Scarcely had Charlie translated this speech, when Ashton was on his feet, 




CASSOMA. 






ADVENTURES IN THE BLACK MAN'S COUNTRY. 



141 



witli his revolver in his hiiiul. Cocking tlie j)is(()l, lie kicked the cask of 

aguardiente towards the chiefs, and said, sternly, — 

"There is the cask. Let me see who will take the first drink.'' 

Tiic negroes hesitated a moment ; bnt Cassoma, springing to his feet, cried 

to Dumbo, — 

"Yon are king here. Yon have the right to the first drink. Take it." 
Still Dumbo hesitated; bnt at a word from his friend he rose, tlirew off 

his outer robe, and tossed it to Cassoma, saying, with a laugh, — 
" Take care the white men do not steal it." 
Then, with a hasty glance at Ashton, he moved towards the cask. In an 

instant the young man raised his revolver to a level with the chief's head and 




IIIL LUIVI, OR Tn\P roil SM\LI. GA-ML 



fired ; but Charlie, who had started to his feet, struck up the outstretched arm, 
and the ball went crashing into the wall of the hut. With a stern command 
to Charlie to stand back, Ashton cocked his revolver again, and stood waiting, 
while his companions, following his example, placed themselves at his side. 
There was no occasion for a second shot, however. The three negroes retreated 
to the opposite side of the hut, and stood trembling with fear, while the women 
set up a chorus of shrill screams. At the same moment there was a burst of 
laughter from the doorway, and the whites, glancing around, saw Momb^e and 
several of their armed negroes standing at the entrance with cocked guns, en- 
joying the scene. The faithful fellows had seen the chiefs enter the hut, and, 
apprehending danger, had come to their employers' assistance. 

Charlie now advanced towards the baffled negroes, and speaking to them 
in a low tone, advised them to leave the hut at once. He told them the white 
men were terrible in their anger, and that they had better go away without 
saying another word, as he might not be able to save their lives a second time. 
The blacks at once took his advice, and filed out of the cabin in deep silence. 
When they had gone, Charlie turned to Ashton, and said, with a smile, — 



142 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



"You brave man, Master Ashton, but you too quick. You kill Dumbo, 
his people kill us." 

^' That is true, Charlie," said Professor Moreton. '^ You have done us a 
great service. In saving the chief's life you have saved all of us from mas- 
sacre. Dumbo's people would surely have avenged his death." 

" Oh, yes," replied Charlie ; " they bound to do that. They too many for 
us. They scared now, though. We safe to-night." 

" That may be," said the professor; "but we must be prepared for them, at 
all events." 

" Now look here, professor," said Ashton. "IVe gotten you into this scrape, 
and I'll get you out of it. You are not well enough yet to worry about these 
matters. I insist upon your lying down and getting some sleep. The rest of 
us will keep watch; and if anything happens during the night you shall be 
called in time to give us the benefit of your counsel." 




GANGUELLA, LUIMBA, AND LOKNA WOMEN. 



The other young men joined their entreaties to Ash ton's, and the professor, 
who was still quite feeble, consented to lie down. 

"I say, Ashton," said Houston, when the professor's heavy breathing an- 
nounced that he had fallen asleep, " I don't think you were so rash, after all. 
It might have been bad for us if you had killed that nigger, but it never would 
have done to let them take the aguardiente. They would have been drunk 
and furious very soon, and there is no saying what trouble they might have 
given us. As it is, you have kept them sober, and I think they are all pretty 
badly scared." 

A careful watch was kept during the night, and several times Charlie was 
sent out to ascertain the state of affairs. He reported that all was quiet, and 
that their own people were asleep. Ashton was not blind to the danger which 
surrounded his party. They were in a fortified village, the inhabitants of 
which outnumbered them ten to one; and in case of trouble the natives would 
certainly receive aid from their people in the neighboring villages. He 
resolved, therefore, to leave the inhospitable place at the earliest moment in the 
morning. Towards midnight a heavy tempest, with violent lightning and 



ADVi:.\TUiii:s IS Ti/i: iilack .u.ia'.s' (H)UMin\ 



143 



thuiulor, l)r()k(> over the vilhiLic, niul lasted until dayhrcak. ('Iiarlic assuicd 
Ashtoii tliat tills was much in their favor, as the neu^rocs were not apt to att(!inpt 
anythlnij against thorn in such un[)ro|)itioiis weathei'. 

J^reakt'ast was served lor the l)ai'ty at a little after dayl)reak on the niorn- 
inii' of the 23d, and this over, Ashton sent word to Duinho that he would like- 
to see hini as soon as possible. 
The chief came at once, looking 
very meek, and aj)ologized humbly 
for the occurrence of the })revious 
night. He threw the whole blame 
on Cassoma, who, he said, was a 
bad man, and had led him to do 
wrong. He added that lie had 
sent him away from the village. 
Ashton received the chief's ex- 
cuses coldly, and told him that 
his party intended to leave the vil- 
lage at once. He warned him 
that while the white men and 
their followers desired to be on 
good terms with the people of their 
village, they would sternly punish 
any effort made to molest them. 
Dumbo humbly declared that the 

whites had nothing to apprehend from himself or his people, who would thence- 
forth be their good friends. 

Dumbo was left at eight o'clock, and that night, although in the neighbor- 
hood of another large village of the Sambo, the chief of which urged them to 
accept his hospitality, our travellers resolved to camp in the open country, 
rather than enter the village. After the camp was pitched a number of negro 
girls made their appearance, offering Indian corn and corn-meal for sale, 
supplies which w^ere promptly purchased. On the 25th the Cubango River 
was crossed on a well-constructed bridge, and the expedition encamped for the 
night on the left bank of the stream, near the village of Chindonga, in the 
vicinity of which ttfey noticed some valuable iron mines from which they were 
told the natives obtain a considerable quantity of ore. The Cubango forms 
the boundary between the territories of the Sambo and the Moma tribes, the 
latter of which are a brancli,of the Ganguella race. On the 27th the Cutata, 
a tributary of the Cubango, w^as crossed, and on the banks of this stream the 
travellers noticed thousands of small hillocks, rising often to a height of from 
thirteen to fifteen feet, and lying so closely togetl^er that they resembled a 




AFRICAX WOMEN POrXDING MAIZE. 



144 ^UR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

miniature range of mountains. These they found to be nothing more than 
gigantic ant-hills. Some of these were cultivated by the Ganguellas, and 
others were covered with trees and vegetation. On the left bank of the 
Cutato our travellers were surprised to see large and carefully cultivated fields 
of maize, beans, and potatoes. These, they learned, belonged to the people of 
Moma, the principal village of that part of the country. On the 29th they 



,ta.a.j5£<^,a<^-vp. 




BRIDGE OVER THE RIVER CUBANGO. 



reached the village of Camenha, the son of the captain of the Quingue, where 
they were hospitably received. 

Camenha had but recently returned from a successful war with one of the 
neighboring tribes, and was in an excellent humor. He readily provided the 
party with food, and urged them to stay several days with him. This they 
consented to do, as the professor saw at a glance that the Caquingue people 
were much superior to the tribes they had been travelling among, and he was 
anxious to study their customs. They had no reason to repent their decision, 
for Camenha proved a courteous and attentive host, and readily supplied them 
with food in return for cloth. 

The Caquingue country is bounded on the north by the Bihe, on the east 
and south by other tribes of the Ganguella race, and on the west by the Moma 
territory. The Ganguellas of the Caquingue country are commonly known as 
the Gonzellos. They constitute a single kingdom, under one monarch, to 
whom each of their chiefs, or captains, owe direct allegiance. They cultivate 
the soil, engage in trade wdth neighboring and even distant nations, and are 



ADVEyrVRES IS THE BLACK MAS'S COUSTIiV. 



\A. 



good workers in iron. They make all the iron weapons and iMij)lernents 
needal for their own nso, and also sell larire nnmbers to the tribes with whieh 
they trade. They have many fine traits of character, bnt are very snper>ti- 
tious, l)elieving thoronghly in sorcery and liaving no conception of a snprenie 
being by whom all things are governed. 

A recent writer tlius speaks of some of their cnstoms : " During the coldest 
months, that is to say June and Jnly, the (lonzellos miners Ic^ave their homes, 




ANT-HILLS OX THE BANKS OF THE RIVER CUTATO OF THE GANGUELLAS. 



and take up their abode in extensive encampments near the iron mines, which 
are abundant in the country. In order to extract the ore, they dig circular 
holes or shafts of about ten to thirteen feet in diameter, but not more than six 
or seven feet deep. . . . 

'^As soon as they have extracted sufficient ore for the work of the year, 
they begin separating the iron. This is done in holes of no great depth, the 
ore being mixed with charcoal, and the temperature being raised by means of 
primitive bellows, consisting of two wooden cylinders about a foot in diameter, 

10 



146 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 




CAQUINGUE BLACKSMITHS 
TOOLS, 

1 . Bellows. 2. Cla.y muz- 
zle. 3. Anvil. 4. Ham- 
mer. 



hollowed out to a depth of four inches, and covered with two tanned goat-skins, 
to which are fixed two handles, twenty inches long and half an inch thick. 
By a rapid movement of these handles a current of air 
is produced, which plays upon the charcoal through two 
hollow wooden tubes attached to the cylinders, and fur- 
nished with clay muzzles. 

"By incessant labor, kept up night and day, the 
whole of the metal becomes transformed by ordinary 
processes into spades, axes, war-hatchets, arrow-heads, 
assegais, nails, knives, and bullets for fire-arms, and even 
occasionally fire-arms themselves, the iron being tem- 
pered with ox-grease and salt. I have seen a good many 
of these guns carry as well as the best pieces made of cast 
steel. 

" During the whole of the time that these labors last 
no woman under any pretext is allowed to go near the 
miners' camp, for fear, as they say, of the utter ruin of 
the metal. 

"So soon as the metal is converted into articles of 
trade, the miners return to their homes laden with their 
manufactures, which they subsequently dispose of by 
sale, after reserving what they require for their own necessities. 

"It is curious that none of these people admit the existence of natural 
causes of disease or death. If any among them should fall ill or die, the cause 
is attributed either to the souls of the other world (one among the spirits being 
specially designated), or to some living person who has compassed the evil by 
sorcery or witchcraft. On the death of a native, should no relatives be upon 
the spot, they are at once summoned, and, pending their arrival, the corpse is 
suspended from a stout pole, planted at a distance of some two or three hun- 
dred yards from the entrance of the village. 

" On the assembling of the relatives, divination is at once resorted to in 
order to learn the cause of death. For this purpose the corpse is fastened to a 
long stake ; a man seizes each end of it, and the body is thus conveyed to the 
place set apart for the divination, where the diviner is in attendance, together 
with a concourse of people standing in two rows. 

*' The diviner then taking in his right hand a piece of white coral, com- 
mences operations. 

"After no end of mummery and discordant cries, during which the corpse 
is made to sway about, — the people all the while believing it does so without 
human intervention, — the diviner declares that it was the soul of such a person, 
male or female, whom he mentions, that occasioned the death ; or he avers that 



ADVKM'i /ii-:s i\ Tin: iilack m.\.\ s coiwrny 



147 



it was this or that Hv'ukj person who slew the {Icfuiict hy sorcery. Tn the 
former case, a o;rave being dug in the neiglihoring wood, no spot in par- 
ticular being seh'cted for the purpose, the body is interred without more ado, 
and stones, wood, and eartli are hca[)ed over it; but in the latter case the 
person designated by the diviner as the sorcerer is seized, and must cither pay 
to the nearest of kin the value of the life he is deemed to have taken or forfeit 
his head, an account of the event being subsequently given to the ruling chief, 
together with a female goat as a fee for listening to the case. 

"An accused person has fortunately the right to deny his supposed crime, 
and to furnish a defence. He applies for such purpose to a medicine-man (by 



iffi^ 




(■Ayl.lNGl.l-: BLACKSMITHS. 



way of advocate), who, in presence of the people, proceeds to prepare his proofs, 
in the shape of an ordeal, to establish either the guilt or innocence of the 
accused. For instance, in sight of the latter's kinsfolk and of the general 
public, he composes a poisonous draught, to be taken both by the accused and 
the nearest relative of the dead man. This draught produces a species of 
temporary madness, and he who suffers most from its effects is deemed the 
more guilty, and has sentence of death passed upon him. 

" If this sentence fall upon the accused, he either pays the life of the 
deceased or forfeits his own ; if it fall upon the other man, he has to indem- 
nify the accused for the accusation made by giving him at once a pig, to pay 
for the trouble in seeking a medicine-man, and subsequently, whatever else 
the accused may claim, namely, a couple of oxen, two slaves, or a bale of 
goods. 

" The medicine-man is defined by the name bestow^ed upon him. He pre 



148 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



pares medicaments. He has some knowledge of medicinal herbs and roots 
which he invariably employs empirically, and makes great use of the cupping 
glass ; but as regards science, he has little or none. The medicine-man never 
makes a diagnosis of any disease, but deals freely in prognostics. His doses 
of medicinal plants are always empirical, and the most absurd and useless 
components enter into his pharmacopoeia. It is true that among ourselves 
the use of antidotes does not go very far. The medicine-man, who is at the 
same time a compounder of drugs, employs during their preparation a certain 
number of ceremonies and words without which they would lose their virtue. 
He makes a great secret of the plants and simples he uses, and puts on a very 
sapient air when questioned upon the subject. The medicine-man is a person 
of great importance, and many solemn acts require his presence. He decides 
many great questions, his opinion prevailing over that of the diviner, and he 




ANT-HILL THIRTEEN FEET HIGH, COVERED WITH VEGETATION, ON THE BANKS OP THE RIVER CUTATO. 



never pronounces it without a preliminary flourish, in the shape of remedies 
and ceremonies, performed now with plants, now with the blood of human 
creatures, or beasts, and on which are bestowed the name of medicinal rites, 

"The diviner, on the other hand, deals in divination and nothing else. In 
the case of any one falling sick, the diviner is first called in to divine whether 
the attack is due to spirits of another world, or to sorcery, and it is after his 
work is done that the medicine-man is applied to. 

" These two personages always perfectly understand each other. 

"The diviner is not consulted solely in cases of disease or death, he is 
appealed to in all conceivable matters of moment, and nothing is done without 
his being first called in. 

" In questions of consultation, he takes up his stand in the centre of a 
circle formed by the people, who must be seated. He brings with him a cala- 
bash and a basket. The calabash contains large glass beads and dried maize ; 
the basket is full of the queerest odds and ends, such as human bones, dried 
vegetables, stones, bits of stick, the stones of fruit, birds' and fishes' bones, etc. 



ADVENTURES IN Till-: lil.ACK MAN'S COUNTRY. J 49 

"lie begins by shaking; the calabash about in the most frantic way, and 
during the rattle consequent on the o[)erati()n he invokes the maUgnant spirits ; 
the basket is then shaken np, and in the articles that appear uppermost he reads 
what his hearers are desirous of learning of the past, present, or future." 

On the 1st of February, Professor Moreton being very much better, the 
party resumed their journey. Five days of steady marching carried thera 
into the Bih6 country, and on the Gth the expedition arrived at Belmonte, the 
village belonging to the old Benguela trader, Silva Porto. They were courte- 
ously welcomed by the agent of the trader, to whom the professor at once 
delivered the letters he had brought from Silva Porto. These directed the 
agent to place the whole establishment at the disposal of the travellers, and to 
render them every assistance in his power. The professor and his companions 
were accordingly lodged in Silva Porto's own house, and the blacks were made 
comfortable in some of the out-buildings. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

FKOM THE BIHE TO THE ZAMBEZI. 

ONE of the first acts of Professor Moreton after reaching Belmonte was to 
pay and discharge the negro carriers who had come with the party from 
Benguela. As they had all been faithful in the main, each man received, in 
addition to his stipulated wages, a handsome present, consisting of cloth, beads, 
and other articles which represented current money in the regions they had to 





VIEW OF THE EXTERIOR OF THE VILLAofc OF BELMONTE IN THE BIHE. 

traverse on their return to their homes. The professor also issued ten days' 
rations to them, to supply them with food on the first part of their homeward 
journey. 

On the morning of the 8th of February the carriers set out on their return 
to the coast, loud in their praises of the generosity of their white employers. 
Five of the black gun-bearers, however, remained with the expedition. They 
had become much attached to the professor and the young men, and had 
declared their intention to remain with them until the end of the journey. 
The professor and his companions were well pleased with this arrangement. 
Although quartered in Silva Porto's village, and nominally under his protec- 
150 



FROM Till-: III III: 'I'o Tiih: /ami;/://. 



ITjI 



tion, tliov wore still in (ho midst ot" :i coiinlry unknown to tlicni, and peopled 
by savages who were famous for their treachery and dishonesty. They knew 
thev could depend upon the negroes who had decided to remain with them, 
for their fidelity had been proven at every stage of the march from the coast. 
Their j)r;>sence would be an additional guarantee ot' the safety of the whole 
party, since it would enable the professor, as leader of the expedition, to reckon 
upon the aid of eleven armed men in case of danger. Charlie and ^FombC'C 




SILVA PUUTO S HOUSE AT BELMO.NTi;. 



were much pleased with the arrangement, and the former told the professor 
that he could rely implicitly upon the faithfulness of the blacks. 

" You trust them, Master 'Fessor,^^ he said ; "they no fool you. Me know 
niggers well. These men lub all the white gentlemen, and when time comes 
will fight well." 

Wlien the carriers started for the coast the professor allowed the five armed 
negroes who wished to return to Benguela to retain their guns, and distributed 
five more muskets to as many men, who were recommended by the negro who 
was to lead them back to the coast. He also entrusted to the leader letters to 
Silva jPorto, the governor of Benguela, and Antonio Ferreira. He urged the 
old trader to hasten forward the goods left in his hands, if he had not already 



152 ^UR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

done so, and enclosed to him letters from himself and his young companions to 
their friends at home, which he requested Silva Porto to forward by the mail 
steamer from Benguela. 

When the carriers had set out he called the young men about him. 

^'Boys,'^ he began, " we have now accomplished the first stage of our journey 
in safety. We have reached the Bih^, and are in good quarters. We have 
gotten through the easiest and safest part of our journey, hard as it has been. 
What lies beyond us I know not. One thing is certain, however, we must 
remain here until the goods we have entrusted to Silva Porto arrive. We 
cannot go on without them. I think we had better make up our minds to 
stay here a considerable time. That Silva Porto will keep his promise to us I 
do not doubt; but it may be weeks and even months before his men reach us. 
In the mean time we must do our best, maintain the strictest discipline among 
ourselves and our negro followers, and try to cultivate friendly relations with 
the people around us. Should we come to the worst, we must try to make our 
way back to Benguela." 

"That we will never do, professor," said Ashton. ".We have set out to 
cross Africa, and we intend to do so." 

"By all means," said the professor, "if we can. But w^e must still keep 
open the way for a safe retreat, should such a step become necessary. As we 
shall certainly make a lengthy stay here, we shall have ample time to decide 
upon our movements after leaving this place." 

The sojourn of our travellers at Behnonte was much longer than they had 
anticipated, and lasted until the latter part of April. During this enforced 
delay Professor Moreton recovered his health, and by strict attention to diet 
and avoidance of exposure the remainder of the party continued well. They 
had an abundant store of sulphate of quinine with them, and found among 
Silva Porto's stores a considerable quantity of good coffee, which Ashton pur- 
chased from the old trader's agent, giving his draft upon his bankers in 
London, as had been arranged between himself and Silva Porto at Benguela. 
Whatever supplies were needed during their stay at Belmonte were purchased 
in this way. Silva Porto's agent, who was a mulatto and a man of great intel- 
ligence, showed the strangers great attention, and managed on the whole to make 
their stay very comfortable. 

The sojourn of our travellers at Belmonte was not passed in idleness. The 
professor and Philip Lee busied themselves in making scientific observations, 
and in writing up the journal of the expedition. Ashton and Hubbard took 
charge of the negroes, and looked after the general management and discipline 
of the quarters, and Houston was kept constantly occupied in providing the 
table with game, which was abundant in the neighboring country. In all such 
expeditions, Charlie was his constant companion, and sometimes one or more 



I 



FROM THE BIIIK TO THE ZAMBEZI. 



1 .^>;] 



of the armed negroes accompanied them. Each evening tlic proA.ssor and liis 
companions assembled, and all gave an account of their doings during the d-Ay, 
which was duly reduced to writing by Professor Moreton or Philip Lee. 

The village of Belmonte had been established some years before by Silva 
Porto as a dep6t for his traffic with the tribes of the interior; and as in former 
times the old trader had often made it his residence, he had chosen the site 
with a view to its healthfulness as well as its defence. It stood upon the 



n 



n D □ n naa 



o 

a 



m 
'ma 



i ^ h 






MP 



I ^S> ^^s^ <er^<s£:) ccs> j 




□ 



j 1 ^ 

'D □ D n nan* 



PLAN OP THE VILLAGE OF BELMONTE IN THE BIHE. 



<^ Sycamores. 



Strong wooden stockade. 



ever-blooming rose-trees. ♦•^ Pomegranates. 

Gardens. [mj« Cemetery, n Negroes' houses 



Garden palisade covered with 
CC^]^ Orange-trees. 



1. Entrance of the village. 2. Entrance into Silva Porto's house. 3. House. 4. Interior 
pateo or court-yard. 6. Kitchen and store-room. 6. Servants' houses. 7. Ware- 
house. 

highest portion of a rising ground, the northern declivity of which sloped 
gently down to the bed of the river Cuito, which flows eastward into the 
Cuqueima. It was enclosed by a strong stockade, which was still further 
strengthened by a row of enormous sycamore-trees, which extended entirely 
around the settlement. The space thus enclosed comprised considerable ground, 



154 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 




"WOMAN OF THK BIHE, DIGGING. 



and contained, besides the buildings of the village, an orange orchard, which 
was in full bearing at the time of our travellers' visit, and excellent gardens. 

The buildings were neatly and substantially 
constructed. They consisted of a large central 
building with a thatched roof, which com- 
prised the dwelling-house of the old trader 
and his private store-house. This was sur- 
rounded on three sides by a grove of orange- 
trees, and in front of it stood the principal 
warehouse of the settlement and the dwelling 
of the agent in charge. Rows of huts, neatly 
constructed and well thatched, were built 
around the four sides of the enclosure, imme- 
diately within the stockade. The whole set- 
tlement had an air of neatness and prosperity 
in marked contrast with the native villages through which our travellers had 
passed. The view from the village across the open country was very fine, and 
the situation being high was both dry and healthy. 

The Bih^, so called from the founder of the reigning dynasty of the country, 
comprises that portion of South Central Africa bounded on the north by the 
country of the Andulos, on the northwest by the Bailundo, on the west by the 
Moma country, on the southwest by the Gonzellos of Caquingue, and on the 
south and east by the free Ganguella tribes. The country, though small in 
extent, is thickly populated for Africa, containing in an area of about two 
thousand five hundred square miles between ninety thousand and one hundred 
thousand inhabitants. 

The government is an absolute monarchy. Five generations ago the country 
was covered with a dense jungle abounding in elephants, and containing a few 
scattered hamlets of the Ganguella race. At this time the Sova or king of the 
Gamba country, which lies north of the Bihe, was named Bomba. He had a 
beautiful daughter, named Cahanda, who was his pride and delight. When 
she came to womanhood, the princess obtained her father's permission to visit 
certain relatives in the village of Ugundo, the only place of importance in the 
Bih6 region at that time. While there she met a famous elephant hunter 
named Bih^, the son of the Sova of the Humbe, who was hunting in that 
region with a numerous suite. The young people at once fell in love with 
each other, and the princess soon became the elephant hunter's wife. Bih6 
thereupon founded the town of Cobongo, which still remains the capital of the 
country, proclaimed himself king of the region, to which he gave his name, 
and by degrees established his authority over the scattered Ganguella tribes. 
King Bomba soon after became reconciled to the marriage of his daughter, and 



J 



FROM Tin: mm-: ro riii-: /am in://. 



155 



allowed a oonsidorahle oiiiin:rall<>n oi' his pcojjic (o the new state Maiiv of tin' 
huntsmen who had eoino into the count ly with liJie inarric.'d llunilx; women, 
and their descendants now constitute the nobility or wealthier class oC the 
country. Tlic lower classes arc the issue of the marriages of several races. 

The Biiienos are very little given to agriculture or manual labor of any 
kind. All the work is done by the w^omen, the men eonfiiiinLT their exertions 
to huntino; and travellino;. The men 
are natural traders, and do not hesi- 
tate to make long journeys in any 
direction, wax, ivory, and slaves 
being their principal articles of traffic, 
though they have no objection to 
dealing in any kind of wares that 
promise a fair profit. Their roving 
disposition is their chief character- 
istic. Benguela is the principal out- 
let for their wares, with the exception 
of slaves. Their caravans penetrate 
into the interior with goods purchased 
at Benguela, collect ivory, wax, and 
other articles of trade, and return 
with them to the Bihe, from which 
they are despatched to the coast by 
caravans of Biheno carriers. Many 
of the principal naerchants are natives 

of the country. While our travellers were at Belraonte one of these, Chaquin- 
gunde by name, wdio had formerly been a slave of Silva Porto, arrived from 
the interior, where he had traded to the amount of over seventeen thousand 
dollars. So accustomed are the Bihenos to take long journeys from their 
homes that they regard them as a matter of course. " If they only had the 
power of telling where they had been and describing what they had seen, the 
geographers of Europe would not have occasion to leave blank great parts of 
the map of South Central Africa. These people have a certain emulation 
among one another as travellers, the most experienced priding themselves on 
having gone where no others had ever been, and which they call discovei'ing 
new lands. They are brought up to wandering from their very infancy, and 
all caravans carry innumerable children, who, with loads proportionate to their 
strength, accompany their parents or relatives on the longest journeys ; hence, 
it is no uncommon thing to find a young fellow of five-and-twenty who has 
travelled in the Matianvo, Niangue, Luapula, Zambezi, and Mucusso districts, 
having commenced his peregrinations at the age of nine years." 




BIHEXO CAI5UIEK OX THE MAKCII. 



156 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



The Bihenos have no religious faith of any kind, adore no gods or idols, 
but are grossly addicted to sorcery. They have, however, a belief that the 
soul exists after death in a sort of purgatory "until such time as the survivors 
are enabled to fulfil certain precepts or perform certain acts of vengeance on 
behalf of the dead." 

The government of the Bih^, as has been said, is an absolute monarchy, 
and the customs of the country are strongly feudal in their character. The 
Sova or king is surrounded by a certain number of saculos or nobles, who 
constitute a sort of council, to which the king always submits his resolutions. 
Their approval follows, as a matter of course, but the sovereign is free to act 




Simple Palisade. Palisade bound together with Withes. Palisade with forked Uprights. 

PALISADES USED FOR THE DEFENCE OP AFRICAN VILLAGES. 

without it, or to disregard it. The members of the council are styled macotas, 
and many of them possess libataSy or fortified villages, in which they assume 
the airs of sovereigns, requiring their people to address them as Ndcocoj or 
"Your majesty." 

" In addition to the macotas, there are three negroes who are in attendance 
on the Sova, and who, when he gives audience, squat upon the ground near 
him, and carefully gather up the royal spittle, to cast it out of doors. There 
is another, who carries the royal seat or chair, and there is the fool, an indis- 
pensable adjunct of the court of every Sova and even of opulent and powerful 
seculos. To the fool is assigned the duty of cleaning the door of the Sov^a's 
house, and the space all around it." 

From Silva Porto's agent our travellers learned much that was curious con- 
cerning the customs of the country. The ceremonies attending the death of a 
king and the proclamation of his successor struck them as very remarkable. 



FROM TIIK HI UK TO THE ZAMHEZI 



'^ The decease of the Sova is of course known to {\\(i niacotas, who keep the 
matter a profound secret. They give out to the people tliat their kinui; is ill, 
and therefore does not appear. Meanwhile they lay out the corpse on the bed 
within the hut and cover it with a cloth — at least, this is the custom in 
Caquingue, but in the Bihe country they hang it u]) l)y the neck to the roof 




ARTICLES MANUPACTURED BY THE BIHENOS. 

1. Bellows. 2. Bellows ready mounted. 3. Earthenware muzzle. 4. Pincers. 
5. Large hammer. 6. A fragment of a musket with a wooden handle used 
by the smith to remove small pieces from the furnace. 7. Small hammer. 
8. Kitchen pots. 9. Large pipkin for capata. 10. Drums. 

of the hut. The body so remains until putrefaction and insects have left the 
bones bare ; or until, as in the Bihe, the head drops from the body. It is 
when this occurs that they announce his death and proceed to the interment of 
his remains. The bones are placed within an ox-hide and deposited in a hut 
which exists within the lomhe, and serves as the mausoleum of all the Sovas. 
The hut in which the corpse putrefied is demolished, and the material of which 
it is composed is carried out of the enclosure and scattered about the jungle. 



158 ' OUR FOUAG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

" It is scarcely necessary to say that the death of a Sova is always produced 
by sorcery or witchcraft, and that some unfortunate has to pay with his life, 
not for the sorcery, which he. never committed, but the private vengeance of one 
of the macotas. No sooner is the death of the Sova announced than the people 
rush madly about, and for some days not only strip and pilfer all persons who 
are met with in the neighborhood of the capital, but make captives of the 
strangers themselves, and subsequently dispose of them for slaves. 

" The macotas then seek out the rightful heir and accompany him to the 
Ubata grande or capital; on his arrival, however, he does not at first penetrate 
the lomhe or inner enclosure, but takes up his residence among the people, 
living for a time as one of them. No sooner, however, has the heir-apparent 
entered the libata than two bands of huntsmen issue forth, one in search of an 
antelope and the otlier of a human victim. 

"An antelope being started, a member of the former of the two bands fires 
at the animal and at once takes to flight, his companions rushing forward to 
cut off the creature's head ;' for should this be done by the huntsman who shot 
it down, he would be at once assassinated, and none might say by whose hand. 

" The other troop, in pursuit of human game, seize the first poor wretch 
(man or woman) who falls in their way, and hurrying the victim off to the 
jungle, cut off the head, which they bring back with great care, abandoning 
the body where it fell. On arriving at the libata tliey wait for the troop on 
the hunt for the antelope, as it is always much easier to find and kill a man 
than to find and kill any particular animal. 

" Having put the two heads into one basket, the medicine-man appears and 
begins to perform the proper remedies to enable the new Sova to assume the 
reins of government; and his tomfoolery being at an end, he declares that 
the sovereign may enter the lombe. Attended by the macotas, the Sova enters 
accordingly, in the midst of loud acclamations and a great expenditure of gun- 
powder. 

" The first step taken by the Sova on attaining to power is to select from 
among his women the one he chooses to make his wife, who is styled inaculo; 
the others still continue to reside in the lombe, but not within the precincts of 
the royal residence." 

Polygamy, however, is one of the most firmly established institutions of 
the BiU. 

The, Bihenos, like all the natives of this part of Africa, are greatly addicted 
to drunkenness. Their favorite liquors are aguardiente, capata (which is also 
called quimbombo or chimbombo), quiassa, and quissangua. Capata is a species 
of beer made from Indian corn, and is not very intoxicating. Quiassa is made 
by adding honey to capata. This produces considerable alcoholic fermenta- 
tion, and in the course of a few days the capata is converted into almost pure 



/v.'o.i/ Till-: HI Hi: to tin-: /.imi;j:/i. 



ir>D 



alcohol, and is vorv iiiloxicaliiiir. (^)n/'ss(nif/ua Is made iVom the njot of an 
lierhacvoiis plant, called hy the natives imhu,t,li It fcrnients rapidly, and is 
intoxicatinrr. 

The lb(xl oC the Bihenos is almost entirely vegetable. They possess bnt 
few cattle, and larely eat meat; when they do, it is generally the flesh of a 




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ARTICLES MADE BY THE BIHEXOS. 

1. Quinda, or straw basket which will hold water. 2. Large sieve for drying rice or maize 
flour. 3. Sifting sieve. 4. Ladle for watering the capata. 

pig. They are fond of meat, however, and Avill readily eat it when offered to 
them, preferring it in a state of putrefaction. They fatten dogs for food, and 
eat the flesh of lions, jackals, hyenas, crocodiles, and all flesh-eating animals. 
Though not positively cannibals, they sometimes devour human flesh. The 
Sovas frequently hold a grand festival at the capital, called the '^ feast of the 
quissunge,'' at which are immolated and devoured five persons, namely, one 
man and four women. The victims are beheaded, their heads cast into the 
jungle, and their bodies carried into the enclosure of the royal residence, 
where they are quartered. An ox is then killed, and its flesh is cooked with 
the human flesh, partly by roasting and partly by boiling in m-paia, so that 
everything which appears at the banquet is mixed with human blood. AVheu 



160 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



this disgusting meal is ready the king causes it to be proclaimed throughout 
the capital that he is about to begin the quissunge, and the inhabitants flock in 
crowds to the entertainment. 

The Bihenos are also passionately fond of white ants. They destroy their 
habitations and eat them raw by the handful. 

As carriers, and when engaged on a journey, the Bihenos are scrupulously 
honest and faithful to their duties. At home they are thorough thieves, and 
steal everything that comes in their way. They have a singular custom by 
which all crimes save that of murder are tried before the person offended, who 
thus becomes both prosecutor and judge. Offences are generally punished by 
the imposition of a fine. Should the convicted criminal refuse to submit to an 
adverse decision, an appeal is had to the king, whose decision is final. Should 
the accused submit, however, the sentence is not only imposed, but is carried 
out by the injured party. 

" The word which strikes most terror in the Bihe is mucanOj a word which 
does not merely express a crime committed, but an idea that expresses both the 
crime and the payment of a fine. When a wealthy person upon whom a 

mucano is pending refuses to pay, 
the party injuredj if he be power- 
ful, makes a seizure of some of the 
other's property for a far higher 
value than the amount of the fine, 
and the property so seized remains 
in deposit, to be subsequently sold 
or appropriated by the person ef- 
fecting the seizure. Should, how- 
over, a seizure be held unjust, the 
party committing it is compelled 
by the Sova to make restitution, 
and give a pig by way of solace to 
the party prejudiced. This system 
offers a premium to extortion, and 
not a day passes without the most 
stupendous mucanos being put for- 
ward. If a man under the charge 
of a mucano should die, the unfortunate wretch who heedlessly takes up his 
quarters in the dead man's house becomes responsible for the former tenant. 
The mode in which justice, so called, is administered in the Bihe is an enor- 
mous obstacle to trade, and the source of most serious losses to the Benguela 
houses.^' 

Such are some of the customs of the Bihenos, as revealed to our travellers 




A BIHE HEAD-DRESS. 



FROM TlIK BllIK TO THE ZAMBEZI. IgJ 

partly by observation and partly by the accounts given by 8ilva Porlo's aj^ents 
and native traders with whom they met while at Bchnonte. 

The montlis of February and March j)assed slowly away, and yet no news 
Ciiine from Silva Porto. By the 1st of April the weather was excellent and 
the country in good condition for travelling. The anxiety of the professor 
increased daily, and many were the consultations he held with his young com- 
panions iis to tiie course they should pursue if their goods failed to reach them. 
The agent of Silva Porto was firm in his coulidence that their property would 
reach them in good time. His employer had promised it, and they could rely 
upon his word. They must remember that in Africa a few months was but a 
short time ; and since they were in comfortable quarters, what mattered a few 
weeks more or less of delay? This argument had but little comfort in it for 
the imi)atient travellers, and it must be confessed that, as April advanced and 
their goods did not arrive, their faith in the old trader's promise began to grow 
weak. Their supplies were also running low, as were those of Silva Porto's 
people^ and a very much longer delay would find them without the means of 
purchasing food from the natives. The country around Belmonte abounded in 
partridges, but of large game there was none. Houston and Ashton were 
engaged for several hours every day in shooting partridges and wood-pigeons 
on the banks of the Cuito; but as their stock of powder was getting low, they 
were obliged to confine their efforts to killing such game as was absolutely 
necessary for the wants of the party. 

One source of constant anxiety to the professor was the dread that some 
of the negroes would get into trouble with the natives, and thus bring upon 
them a claim for a mucano, which in their impoverished condition they would 
not be able to pay. He was firm'y resolved not to submit to extortion in 
any claim of the natives, but was aware that resistance to even the most 
unfounded claim for damages would involve the party in serious trouble with 
the Bihenos. Situated as they were, with scanty supplies of stores, food, and 
ammunition, they were in no condition either to pay a mucano or to success- 
fully resist it. Silva Porto\s agent told the professor that he was very much 
surprised that no such claim had been made by the natives, as it was their 
custom to fleece every stranger arriving in their territory. Even Silva Porto 
himself had been compelled at times to pay heavy damages for preposterous 
claims. 

"It may be," said the agent, "that they think you too well armed to be 
trifled with." 

" Suppose a mucano was laid upon us, and we refused to pay it," asked 
Ashton, " what would they do? Would they attack us?" 

"They might do so," replied the agent; "but it is more likely they would 
seek to give you trouble after you leave this place: or, they might think you 

11 



162 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

too well armed to be molested. In that case they will wait, perhaps it may 
be for years, until the next white man comes along, and if he is not strong 
enough to resist, will compel him to pay your mwcano." 

'^That's a queer idea of justice," said Houston; "but if we are troubled 
with a mucano, I think we shall let the next white visitor here pay it." 

During their stay at Belmonte our travellers were visited by many of the 
natives, and managed to preserve friendly relations with all. As they kept 
their property well housed, and under strict guard, they suffered no loss from 
thieves. 

One morning towards the last of April a number of Bihenos came into 
Belmonte in company with a medicine-man, who wished to sell to the whites a 
liquid which he assured them was ''a great medicine." He declared that who- 
ever drank it would be rendered impenetrable to bullets. He produced a small 
pipkin of earthenware, which held about a pint of a dark-colored liquor, and 
exhibited it to the whites. 

" Have you ever tried it yourself?" asked Ashton. 

Charlie translated the question, and the medicine-man answered that he 
certainly had done so, and was in consequence proof against all kinds of fire- 
arms. 

"Tell him," said Houston, "that I will give him four yards of white cloth 
if he will let me fire at him with this rifle." 

When these words were translated to the medicine-man, he glanced 
nervously at Houston and then at the rifle, and drew back quickly a few paces. 
Immediately the people who had come with him burst into a roar of laughter. 
This nettled the man ; and he came forward again, and holding up the pipkin 
declared that so far from Houston being able to put a ball through him, he 
could not even strike the vessel containing the liquor. 

"Tell him," said Houston to Charlie, "that if he will put up his jug as a 
target I'll put a ball through it at once." 

The fellow hesitated, then burst into a laugh, and answered that it would 
be useless for the white man to attempt such a feat, as the best shots among 
the Bihenos had repeatedly struck the vessel without doing it any injury. 
Nevertheless Houston insisted that the medicine-man should prove his sin- 
cerity by allowing him to fire at it, and agreed to give him a bottle of aguar- 
diente if he failed. The Bihenos who liad come with the medicine-man also 
demanded that the trial should be made, and the man was forced to set up the 
vessel as a target. He took care to place it at a distance of about eighty j^aces, 
thinking, no doubt, that the young American would find it impossible to hit 
so small an object at so great a distance; and then, smiling calmly, stood by to 
watch the result. The Bihenos leaned forward in eager silence, with their 
eyes fixed upon Houston. 



FROM Tin: nun:' TO riii: zamhezi. k;- 

"You must hit it, oM Ic'llow," said Asliton to his <'oiiij>aiiion. "Aim cai't'- 
fiilly. To tail in this would loso us our creilit with the n('«^roes." 

"It is not (litlicult," replied Houston, quietly. " I thiidv the loss of ei'edit 
will be on the part of that iun)udeut jug<i;ler. He'll not liud it so easy to 
hunibuy: the natives after this." 

Houston ste})pcd forward amid a profound silenee, took deliberate aim at 
the vessel, and lired. The })ipkin Hew into a dozen pieees, and the ma^^ie 
liquor flowed over the stump of the tree. The Bihenos greeted the suecessful 
shot with a perfeet storm of ap})lause, while the diseomfited medieiiie-mau gave 
one anxious look at Houston and then ran out of the village as fast as his legs 
could carry him, followed by the laughter of his countrymen. 

"He scared bad, Master Hoosey," said Charlie, laughing. "He 'fraid you 
shoot him next. No like to stay too close to that gun." 

May day came, bright and smiling, and with it the end of our travellers' 
suspense and anxiety. The first detachment of the caravan despatched from 
the coast by Silva Porto arrived at Belmonte, bringing \vith them a consider- 
able quantity of goods on the trader's account, and a portion of the property 
belonging to the travellers. The remainder arrived by the 5th, and the 
promise of the old trader was at last fulfilled. Upon examining the packages 
turned over to them by Silva Porto's agent, they found that the trader had not 
remained content \\\t\\ merely keeping his promise to forward their goods ; he 
had sent them, as a present from himself, ten excellent guns, with a liberal 
supply of ammunition, and a quantity of articles of prepared food for use on 
their journey. He also wrote to the professor, offering to be of still further 
assistance if his aid should be needed. 

As soon as the first load of goods was received, and he w^as assured that the 
rest were close at hand, the professor set about engaging carriers for the journey 
beyond the Bihe. He needed one hundred and fifty men, and in order to 
secure them he applied to several pombeiros, or contractors, as we should call 
them. Five of these men engaged to furnish him wntli thirty carriers each, to 
accompany him as far as the Zambezi, and to have their men in readiness by 
the 20th of May. 

The Biheno carriers form themselves into parties, under the command of 
one among them who becomes their chief; this chief is called the pombeiro. 
He manages the negotiations for the services of his men, and is responsible for 
their good conduct. "He eats and sleeps with them, and in fact may be looked 
upon as their captain. The pombeiro carries no load, but in the event of the 
sickness or death of one of his men he takes his place as temporary carrier. 
During the march his place is at the tail of the train, and if a carrier lags 
behind he is there to look after or assist him. The men are never paid in 
advance, and in regular trading journeys their recompense is very small. The 



164 0^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

pombeiros never undertake a venture for any determinate time^ and their gains 
are the same for the shorter as well as the longer period. They are employed, 
in fact, by the job, for it is well known that in Africa the negroes make no 
account of time." 

When the goods were all safely in hand the professor and his companions 
set to work to arrange them^ into loads for the carriers, and made a list of the 
contents of each package, so as to be able to lay their hands at once upon any 
desired article. Among the articles received were three mackintosh or india- 
rubber boats, which would be of great service to them in crossing the large 
and deep rivers which lay in their path eastward. When not in use each of 
these boats, which had a capacity for carrying five persons, could be folded into 
a convenient package, which could be borne on the head of a single carrier. 
When needed for use the package could be unfolded, and the boat made 
buoyant by inflating its "skin'' with air by means of a hand-bellows. Should 
the bellows be lost on the journey, the lungs of a strong negro would answer 
the same purpose. 

Silva Porto's agent now urged the professor to leave Belmonte as soon as 
possible. He told him it was known to the natives that the party had received 
a large supply of goods from the coast, and that it was very certain the Blhenos 
would endeavor to get possession of some of them by laying a mucano upon 
him, as the head of the expedition. He urged him to impress upon his com- 
panions and upon his black followers the necessity of increased caution in their 
conduct, so as to give the natives no hold upon them. Our travellers had 
themselves been apprehensive of this, and recognized the force of the agent's 
reasoning. The work of preparing for their departure was, therefore, pushed 
forward with all speed, and by the 15th of May all was in readiness for the 
carriers when they should make their appearance. 

As has been stated, our travellers held many councils during their stay 
at Belmonte for the purpose of deciding upon their route after leaving that 
place. The result of their deliberations was the determination to march from 
Belmonte direct to the Upper Zambezi, following the lofty ridge of the country 
in which the rivers of that part of Africa take their rise. On arriving at the 
Zambezi they were to follow that stream to the Zumbo, from which they would 
proceed eastward by Tete and Senna to Quilliuiane, a town and military station 
in the Portuguese territory of Mozambique. Should circumstances prevent 
this, they would seek to reach the Transvaal and the British possessions on the 
Indian Ocean. The main object was to reach the falls of the Zambezi. Should 
they succeed in that, they would then be able to decide upon the remainder of 
their route. 

On the 19th of May three of the pombeiros arrived at Belmonte with 
ninety carriers. They were confident that the others would arrive with their 



FROM THE HI Ilk TO THE ZAMliEZI. \Q^ 

Mien in time to lu'^in the joiinuy tlu; next day, l)ut the 2()tli passed, inueli to 
the disgust of tlie Ainerieaiis, without any increase in the number of carriers. 
Two days more passed away, and the matter began to look serious. Sixty car- 
riers were still needed, and iiow to obtain them was a problem. The pombeiros 
w ho hatl fulfilled their contract to furnish men were indignant at the failure 
of the others. They advised the professor to leave Bclmonte at on(;e, and 
establish a cam}) a few miles beyond the village. This, they said, would show 
that he had begun his journey, and might induce carriers to volunteer their 
services. 

This advice pleased the .Vmericans very much, and was warmly supported 
by Charlie, who had, from the first, declared his belief that the other pombei- 
ros were only waiting to see if the })arty really intended to start. Accord- 
ingly, on the 23d of May our travellers bade farewell to Belmonte, and set out 
on their march. As the ])rofessor intended to halt in the Cabir woods less 
than a day's march from the village, he succeeded in inducing some of Silva 
Porto's people and a number of the natives of the vicinity of Belmonte to carry 
the extra loads to the place selected for the camp. It was reached early in the 
afternoon, and the negroes were at once set to work to construct the encamp- 
ment. This was finished before night, as the labor -was not very great, and 
the next day the camp was enclosed with a stockade as a protection against the 
visits of wild beasts and the intrusion of the natives. The encampment was 
composed of conical huts made of the trunks of small trees, each hut meas- 
uring ten feet in diameter at the base by eight feet high. In the centre of the 
camp were five huts of larger size for the professor and his young companions. 
The huts of the negro carriers were built in a circle and formed the outer line 
of the camp, and between each hut, and connecting them, w^as a stockade or 
stout hedge of thorny trees. Immediately behind the huts of the white men 
were those of Charlie, Mombee, and the five armed negroes. To guard against 
fire the professor had all the huts covered with green boughs instead of dry 
grass. This was the manner in which the encampments of the expedition w^re 
constructed throughout the journey. 

On the 25th one of the pombeiros arrived at the camp, bringing with him 
the thirty men he had promised. He made no explanation of the cause of his 
delay, and, as the professor was heartily glad to secure the additional men, he 
was asked no questions. The four pombeiros now exerted themselves to 
obtain the remaining thirty men needed for the journey, and by the 28th they 
were successful. 

On the 30th of May the camp in the Cabir w^oods was broken up, and the 
march was resumed towards the eastward. On the 31st the party halted for 
the night in the vicinity of the village of the famous trader, Jose Antonio 
Alves, whose character has been so graphically sketched by Lieutenant Cam- 



IQQ OUR rOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

eron in his account of his journey across Africa. Our travellers, who were 
familiar with Cameron's description of the man, were rejoiced to find that 
Alves was away on a trading expedition; and so the next morning they pushed 
on again towards the Cuanza River. They were anxious to get out of the 
Bih6 territory as soon as possible, so as to be beyond the reach of the dreaded 
mucano. A march of a few hours brought them to the village of Cassamba, 
near which they encamped. 

The village was situated in the midst of a dense forest, which seemed to 
promise an abundance of game, and as soon as the huts were finished Houston 
and Lee started out with their guns in search of food. They succeeded in 





CROSSING THE CUQUEIMA. 



shooting only a few guinea-fowls, and returned to the camp about nightfall, 
much disappointed. 

Early the next morning, June 2, the route was resumed, .and for over a 
couple of hours lay across a marshy plain, where progress was diflScult and 
slow. Towards noon they reached the left bank of the river Cuqueima, which 
at that point pursued a northerly course. It was a swift, wide, and deep stream, 
and the pombeiros said was infested with crocodiles. None of these were seen 
by the party, however. 

The professor waited on the bank of the river until the entire party had 
come up. Then the mackintosh boats were brought out, inflated, and safely 
launched upon the stream. Each boat would carry five men and their loads, 
and the passage of the river was at once begun. Houston and Lee were sent 



biioM Tin: iiiiih: TO Tin: z.\mi'.i:/.i. 



107 



ovor willi till' tirst hoats, to kct^p tlio men in ordrr and look out ioi- tlw l<»a(ls 
after tliev were laiuled on the opposite slioic, the professor, Ashton, and llnl)- 
banl reniainin*]^ on the Bihe side to direct the movements of the boats. The 
passai2;e of the river consumed several hours, but about the middle of the after- 
noon tiie entire party weie safe on the opposite side of the stream. 

"Well, bovs,'' said the ])rofessor, as the last of the mackintosh boats was 
folded and strapped, ready for the carriers, "we are out of the Bihe territory at 
last, and I breathe freer. We have passed through that region without any 
quarrel with the people, or sutl'ering any inucano.'' 

He had scarcely spoken when the party were startled by a loud shout from 
tlie opposite bank ; and looking across the river they beheld two men standing 
at the water's edge, shouting and gesticulating with great earnestness. Charlie, 
wdio spoke the language of the Bihenos, was ordered to answer their hail. In 
reply to his demand to know their business, they shouted that they had an 
important tnessage for the white men from the king of the Bihe, and asked to 
be taken across the river. As he translated the reply, Charlie shook his head 
doubtingly. 

"Him no good. Master 'Fessor," said he. " We got no business with Bih6 
Sova now. We out his country." 

"Still,^' replied the professor, "they may have something of importance to 
say to us. Shall we ferry them over, boys?" 

" It can do no harm to hear what they have to say," answered Ashton. 
"There are but two of them, and we have nothing to fear from them." 

r Charlie again pro- 

tested that it would be 
better to leave them 
where they were, but 
the professor decided to 
bring them across. One 
of the mackintosh boats 
was again inflated and 
launched, and sent over 
the stream in chargje of 
Ashton and Houston, 
who volunteered for the 
service, deeming it best 
not to trust it to any of 
the negroes. The men 
were soon brought over, and the boat was prepared again for the carriers. 

The two men now came forward to where the professor and his companions 
were standing. One of them was a Biheno, with a villainous countenance, and 




QUIMBANDE MAX AND WOMAX. 



168 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

the other a powerfully-made man, dressed in the Biheno costume, with a red 
woollen cap on his head. He was as dark-skinned as a native, but his features 
and beard were evidently those of a European. He was as villainous looking 
as his companion, and came forward with a dogged, insolent air. 

" That man no nigger, Master ^Fessor,'^ said Charlie, in a low tone. " Him 
Portygee. Me keep my eye on him." 

" He is very likely an escaped convict from one of the Portuguese settle- 
ments, who has cast in his lot with the natives," said Ashton. ^' I don't like 
his looks either, Charlie, and I am sorry now we brought him over." 

The professor fixed a searching glance upon the man, and then, addressing 
him in Portuguese, asked him his business. The man answered sullenly in the 
Bih6 tongue that he did not understand Portuguese ; but the professor cut him 
short, and told him sternly that they knew him for a European, and that he 
must answer in Portuguese or leave the party at once. Seeing that further 
deception was useless, the man then said that he was a Biheno by adoption, 
and had become a person of great importance in that country. His companion, 
he said, was a native of rank, and had been injured by some of the white 
men's party, who had stolen a pig from him. The matter had been laid before 
the Sova of the Bihenos, who had sent them to demand payment for the pig, 
and damages for the wrong his subject had suffered. 

" And how much do you demand ?" asked the professor. 

"Four pieces of striped cloth and three bottles of aguardiente/^ replied the 
man. 

" Suppose we refuse to pay ?" asked the professor. 

'^ Then," replied the man, ^' we will go to the village just beyond here, and 
order the chief, in the name of the Sova of the Bih6, to collect the mucanoJ^ 

" We owe you nothing," said Professor Moreton, '' and we will pay you 
nothing. We know that we are no longer in the territory of the Sova of the 
Bih6, and that he has no authority here. You are an impudent fellow to 
come to us with such a demand, and I warn you to go back to your adopted 
country at once. You will get nothing from us." 

" Then we will go on to the next village," said the man, insolently, " and 
give the king's message to the chief." 

" You will do nothing of the sort," said Ashton, sternly. " Both you and 
your companion will at once go back across the river. You do not pass one 
foot beyond this bank." 

^' Then," exclaimed the man, angrily, "I will command your carriers, in 
the name of their king, to drop their loads and return with me. I will tell 
them you intend to carry them to the sea, and there sell them into slavery. I 
will " 

His speech was cut short by a powerful blow from Charlie's fist, which 



FRu^f TiiK mill': to the zamhezi 1(j9 

sent him sprawling upon the i^rouiuh At tlie same instant both he and his 
companion were covered by the revolvers of the whites. 

"That was w^ell done, Charlie," said the professor, laughinf^. 

"Me know him one bad man," said Charlie. "Me stop him talU. He 
make trouble if he talk to niggers." 

The fallen man had now raised himself on his elbow, and was glaring at 
the whites with suppressed rage, while his com])anion stood by trembling with 
fear. The carriers grouped around, looking on with deep interest, but not a 
sound came from them. 

"We must settle this matter at once and finally, professor," said Ashton. 
" I'll not hurt the fellow if he goes away promptly ; but we must prevent his 
saying a word to the Bihenos at any cost. Sustain me in what I do." 

"Very good," said the professor; "settle the matter. I see you have 
made up your mind what to do." 

" My fine fellow," said Ashton, addressing the European in Portuguese, 
"you are in our power. Attempt to utter one word to our carriers and I'll 
put a bullet through your brain. You shall give us no trouble, and if you 
attempt the slightest resistance to us you shall surely die. You see we are 
armed, and pre})ared to carry out our resolution." 

"What do you intend to do with me?" asked the man, sullenly. 

" Send you back to the Bihe," replied Ashton. "Both you and your com- 
panion will at once walk down to the river and swim across to the opposite 
shore. Once there you will leave the river as quickly as possible ; for if we see 
you hanging about the bank we shall send a rifle ball after you." 

"The river is wdde and swift, and there are crocodiles in it," said the man. 
" You surely will not force rae to swim it." 

"You will do as I say," said Ashton, sternly. "We have seen no croco- 
diles, and we don't intend to unj):ick our boats again. Get on your feet at 
once, and start." 

" I will call out to your men that I am the Sova's servant, and that you 
are trying to murder me," said the man, rising, and looking at Ashton dog- 
gedly. 

" A single word to them will be your death," said Ashton. " Charlie, 
explain to that Biheno fellow what I have said to his comrade. Now," he 
continued, taking out his watch, " I give you just three minutes to decide. If 
you are not in the water at the end of that time I shall shoot you." 

The man still hesitated ; but as soon as Charlie had translated Ashton's 
words to the Biheno, the native gave a howl of dismay, ran towards the river, 
sprang in, and struck out lustily for the opposite shore. The Portuguese hesi- 
tated no longer, but jumping into the stream, swam after his companion. 

"Now, professor," said Ashton, "gel: the men out of earshot as rapidly as 



170 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 




QUIMBANDE GIRLS. 



possible, while Houston and I stay here for a while witli our rifles, and see 
these fellows safely across. We can't afford to let them speak a word to our 
men." 

The carriers were at once put in motion, and marched from the river, while 
the two young men remained on the bank watching the swimmers. The swift 

current carried them 
down the stream some 
distance, and by the time 
they reached the opposite 
shore the professor had 
gotten his men far enough 
from the river to prevent 
the shouts of the baffled 
villains from being un- 
derstood. 

Upon reaching the 
Biheno shore the Portu- 
guese and his companion moved up the bank to a point opposite the young 
men. Shaking his clinched fist at them, the Portuguese broke into a storm 
of oaths, and threatened tl em with a dire vengeance. 

" We had better send a shot or two after them,'' said Houston, " to start 
them back from the river." 

"All right," answered Ashton ; "aim to strike near them, but not to hit 
them." 

The young men fired simultaneously. Ashton's ball struck the ground 
within a foot of the infuriated Portuo^uese, and Houston's cut a twig: from a 
tree close by the head of the Biheno. The fellows at once ceased their shouts, 
and started back from the river at a run. The young men watched them until 
they were out of sight, and then set off to rejoin the professor. 

Having reached a point sufficiently removed from the river to be out of 
hearing of the men they had driven away, the professor halted his party, and 
caused Charlie to explain to the negroes that the men who had been dealt with 
so summarily were merely thieves, who had endeavored to rob them of their 
property under the pretext of levying a mucano upon them. The pombeiros 
unanimously declared that the fellows had been served perfectly right, and 
their men endorsed their opinion by nods of approval. 

Perceiving a village a short distance in advance. Professor Moreton asked 
one of the pombeiros its name, and was told that it was the village of the Sova 
of the Ganda, who was the chief of a Ganguella tribe, and was well disposed 
towards travellers. As the ground between the village and the river was too 
marshy for a camp, the party proceeded in the direction of the village, and one 



s \ 



FROM Till-: HI III: TO Tin: zamhezi. 



171 



siirnriso( 



of the poinbtMros was sent on in advance to a>k- tlic r\\\v[' to in-ovidc the lints 
ill the villajre for the eiitiro ])arty for the niuht. Tlui chicr not only <i:raiit((l 
tho rcHiuest, but eanic out of the village to meet his i^uests. He; was <^|•('atlv 
j)r('sente(l them with a 
In I'etnrn the j)rofessor 



1 by everything the white men possessed, and 
fine ox, which was slaughtered for the eveinng meal, 
gave him a |Heee of striped cloth and a lew charges 
of gunpowder, witli which he wils highly delighted. 

On the 3d of June, Ganda was left behind, and 
that evening the camp was pitched about a mile west 
of the village of Muzinda. Duriuij: the afternoon 
the chief of Muzinda visited the camp, bringing with 
him an ox as a present. He was given a piece of 
cloth and some gunj)owder in return. The next day's 
march brought the party to the left bank of the river 
Cuanza, where they camped, about one mile from the 
village of Liuica. As food was plentiful in the region, 
and the natives were disposed to sell, the 5th of June 
was passed in the camp and in purchasing provisions. 
The chief of Liuica presented the professor with 
an ox, for which he was rewarded as the others had 
been. 

On the 6th the party crossed the Cuanza, using 
the mackintosh boats and seve al small canoes, which 
were loaned them by the chief of Liuica. The pas- 
sage of the stream occupied a couple of hours, and 
then the march was resumed, the route leading into 
the country of the Quimbandes, a Ganguella tribe. 
The villages of Muzeu and Caiaio were passed, an 1 

the party went into camp at a spot about two hours' march from the latter 
village, and near the source of a little stream called the Mutanga, which runs 
northwest into the Cuanza. 

The pombeiros informed the professor that the village of the Sova Mavanda 
was but a short distance beyond the camp. The Quimbandes, they told him, 
form a confederatio;i, their country being divided into small states, which 
always unite for their common defence. The villages in the neighborhood of 
the camp w6re subject to the Sova Mavanda, who was, in his turn, a vassal of 
the Sova of Cuio or Mucuzo, a town some distance to the northward. 

Our travellers noticed while in the country of the Quimbandes that their 
villages were not as strongly fortified as those of the Bihe. They were struck 
with the singular fashion in which the women of the country dressed their 
hair. Cowries, or small shells, were used for ornaments of the hair, which 




QUIMBANDE WOMAN CARRYING 
HER LOAD. 



172 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

was plastered and kept in shape by a red cosmetic made of a resinous powder 
and castor oil. Some of these head-dresses looked for all the world like a 
European woman's bonnet, and others were shaped like a Roman helmet. The 
natives prepare castor oil in considerable quantities, but use it entirely for 
such purposes, having no knowledge of its properties as a medicine. The dress 
of the women is certainly economical, consisting simply of a cloth worn about 
the loins. The men cover their nakedness with two aprons of small antelope 
skins, one before and the other behind, which are suspended from a broad belt 
of ox hide. The Sovas only use leopard skins for this purpose. 

As soon as the camp was constructed, Professor Moreton despatched a 
small present to the Sova Mavanda, who returned his hearty thanks for it. 
He begged the professor to send him a shirt also, as he was greatly desirous of 
possessing such a garment, and the present was accordingly forwarded to him. 

Early the next morning a message was received from the Sova. He stated 
that he was about to march with his army to attack a neighboring village, 
where one of his subjects had rebelled against his authority. He was anxious 
that the white men should see his army, and would march by their camp about 
midday. 

Near the appointed hour the sound of drums announced the approach of 
the Sova and his forces, and the professor drew up the entire party in front of 
the entrance to the camp to watch the sable warriors pass by. 

First marched two stout negroes beating war drums, and uttering the most 
horrible yells. These were followed by a color-bearer, who bore a lofty staff 
from which floated a faded Portuguese flag. Then came two men carrying on 
their shoulders a long pole, from which an enormous powder-chest was slung 
by ropes. Behind these marched the Sova and his principal officers, and after 
them about six hundred warriors marching in single file. Eight of the men 
were armed with muskets ; the rest carried bows and arrows. They marched 
by at a quick step, and soon disappeared in the distance. 

Towards sunset the army returned, victorious, without having struck a 
blow, as their appearance so inspired the rebels with terror that they surrendered 
at discretion. 

Upon reaching the camp of our travellers the army halted, and the Sova 
sent one of his officers to say that he would put his men through a sham fight 
in order that his white visitors might witness his mode of attacking a village. 
At a sign from the Sova the bowmen spread out into a long thin line, having 
the flag in the centre, and behind it the monarch and the powder-chest. The 
line then began to surround an imaginary village, contracting and growing 
more compact as it enclosed the threatened place. Then, at a sign from the 
Sova, the men dashed forward upon the village, bounding in the air, brandish- 
ing their weapons, and uttering the most terrific cries. The battle over, they 



FROM THE BIJIE TO THE ZAMBEZI. 17;3 

returned to tlie position thrv had ot;(;u[)icd before the attacilc, fornied in line, 
and niarelied off towards their town. 

Dnring the evening the Sova sent word to the professor that he would pay 
him a formal visit the next (hiy, and although the travellers were anxious to 
be on the march again, they could not decline to receive the visit. 'I'he Sova's 
friendship might be valuable to them, and would be well purchased by a delay 
of a day. 

It was near noon on the 8th of June when the Sova Mavanda made his 
appearance at the camp surrounded by his court. 

" We shall certainly be able to boast of one thing, if we ever get home 
again, professor," said Houston, as the royal party approached. " We can say 
we have seen the greatest man in Africa." 

" He is a giant," said Ashton ; " by far the largest human being I ever saw." 

Mavanda was indeed a man of tremendous size. His height was enormous, 
and his body was of phenomenal proportions, besides which, he was extremely 
fat. In spite of this, he moved as actively as a much lighter man could have 
done, and walked with a certain dignity that commanded the respect of the 
strangers. His dress consisted of three leojmrd skins hung from a cloth twisted 
around his waist, and around his huge neck was a collar of beads, from which 
were suspended several amulets. 

He was received with formal courtesy by the professor, who presented his 
young companions, Charlie acting as interpreter. Mavanda expressed his 
pleasure at seeing them, and declared that he would be glad if more white men 
would visit his country. He added that he had brought with him a fine ox as 
a present to the strangers. The animal proved to be as enormous in its pro- 
portions as its donor, and was a welcome gift indeed. The usual compliments 
then passed between the professor and the king, when the latter, turning 
abruptly to the professor, said he had come to ask a favor of him. This was 
to give him a " medicine" to save his cattle. His animals, when sent out to 
pasture, strayed away into the woods, and did not all return to their shelter at 
night. Many of them fell victims to wild beasts, and others were never seen 
again, so that, on the whole, he was a loser to a considerable extent. He had 
heard the professor was a great "medicine-man," and he would like him to 
give him a " medicine" such as was used in the white man's country. 

In reply the professor advised him to put his cattle in charge of a herds- 
man, who w^ould look after them and prevent their straying. The idea im- 
pressed the king very forcibly, and he declared that he would adopt it, although 
it was not the custom in his country to watch the herds. Still the plan was a 
good one, and he would try it at once. 

In return for the ox the professor presented the king with a gun and some 
•charges of powder. He also gave him a number of small articles, among them 



174 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



a box of Jucifer matches, which greatly delighted the sable monarch, who de- 
clared that he could now make fire whenever he wanted it. He was much 
interested in the rifles of the whites, and declared he would give half of his 
kingdom if he had an army equipped with such weapons. 

'' With such guns,'^ he declared, " I could bring great countries under my 
rule." 

The Sova remained in the camp until twilight, when he departed with his 




THE SOVA MA.VANDA, MASKED, AND DANCING IN THE CAMP. 

people, greatly pleased with his visit. As he was taking leave he told the pro- 
fessor that the greatest desire of his heart was to possess a pair of trousers, and 
asked if he could not give him a pair. The professor replied that he had none 
sufficiently large for his majesty, but would make him a pair, and send them 
to him the next day. 

During the evening Professor Moreton, with the aid of Houston and 
Charlie, managed to cut the desired article from a large piece of figured calico. 
Charlie undertook to sew them up the next morning, as he avowed himself a 
proficient w^ith a needle and thread. He made quite a creditable ''job'' of the 
trousers, which were certainly large enough, as they contained five yards of 
calico. They were despatched to the ki^-g the next mornincr, and he was so 



FROM Tin: HI HE to the ZAMiiir/i. 



176 



much pleased with them that he x-iit hack his tliaiiks to tlic professor hy one 
of the highest ollieers of his court. This dignitary also stated that the king 
had commissioned him to say that as it was a time when his })eople kept liigh 
festival, he would do his white friends the lionor to come to tlicir camj) in 
the afternoon, masked, and dance beforv' them. This, th(! oilicer added, was 
the hiy-hest honor the 8ova could grant his friends. 

Early in the afternoon a number of the attendants of the kiii<r arrived at 
the camp, accompanied by a large concourse of people. Half an hour hitt r 
Mavanda himself appeared, presenting such a comical appearance that our 
travellers could scarcely refrain from burstiuii; into lau":hter at si<j:ht of him. 
His head was thrust into an enormous gourd, painted white and black, and 
over his body he wore a frame of osiers covered with grass-cloth, also painted 
white and black. He also wore a sort of coat made of horse-hair and the tails 
of animals, which came down over his knees. 

As the Sova drew near, his men formed in a line, behind which the atten- 




DITASSOA — FISH OF THE RIVER OXDA. 



dants ranged themselves, while the w^omen and children withdrew to adistiuice. 
The attendants and men then stood upright, with motionless bodies, and began 
a singular, monotonous chant, which they accompanied with a clapping of 
hands. Mavanda then took his place about thirty yards in front of the line, 
and began a remarkable performance, in which he acted the part of a wnld 
beast torn w^ith rage. He leaped about and capered with a lightness and 
suppleness sur[)rising in a man of such enormous size, and was greeted with 
shouts of applause from his own people and from the negroes of the expedition. 
The performance was kept up for about half an hour, and then the king sud- 
denly darted out of the encampment at full speed, followed by his people. In 
about an hour he returned, clad in his ordinary dress, and spent the remainder 
of the day with the professor and his companions. He proved himself to be a 
man of more than usual good sense, and many of his ideas would not have 
shamed a more civilized potentate. 

The night w^hich followed the Sova's visit was very cold, and the entire 
party suffered considerably from the sudden change of temperature. 



176 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



The next morning they were on the march at an early hour. They passed 
by Mavanda's village, where the king was waiting to take leave of them, and 
parted from him with genuine regret. 

" You will come back to me,'' were his last words. *' You will never reach 
the Great Water the way you are going. It lies behind you. I would like 




TREE-FERNS ON THE BANKS OF THE ONDA. 



you to come and live with me. Then T would give you wives and cattle, and 
make you happy." 

Four hours' steady marching brought the party to the river Varea, which 
they crossed on a tolerably good bridge of timber. They had no sooner gotten 
over, however, than they received a visit from the chief of the little village of 
Divindica, situated on the left bank of the Varea, who came to demand pay- 
ment for the use of the bridge, on the ground that the structure was the prop- 
erty of his people. The pombeiros advised the professor to give the man 



FIH)M THE HI UK TO THE ZAMIiEZI. 



J77 



somethino^, but not all that he claimed, and the fellow was forced (o eontrnt 
himself with fonr yards of cloth. The march was then resumed, and about 
three o'clock the camp was pitched on the left hank of the river Onda, oppo- 
site the large village of Cahango, the capital of the East (^uimhande tiibes. 

The country of the Eastern Quimbandes was found by our travi^llers to be 
much mon^ thinly populated than that they had left behind them. The people 
are also ditferent in characteristics. They are lazy and shiftless, doing no work, 
carrying on no trade, undertaking no journeys, and going almost naked. They 
are very poor, gathering only a little wax, which the Bailundos take from them 
in exchange for cowries and beads ; but even this traffic is so slight as to be 
scarcely worth mentioning. The women are the most industrious part of the 
population. Thev cultivate the ground; and the soil, being very rich, yields 
abundant ci'ops, chiefly of manioc and gingerba. 

On the 11th the party crossed the Onda, and encamped about three miles 
from their last resting-place, beyond the village of Cabango, the Sova of which 
sent word that he would visit the strangers the next day. This necessitated 
another delay, but there was no help for it. During the night the party suf- 
fered very much from cold, the mercury 
falling at half-past three o'clock to zero, 
a change which the half-naked Africans 
felt keenly. 

The next morning the Sova of Ca- 
bango arrived, with about sixty of his 
people, including several of his wives 
and a number of the dignitaries of his 
court. They were all in an almost com- 
plete state of nudity, but their hair was 
dressed in a singular and elaborate 
manner. The Sova brought with him 
a fine ox, which he presented to the 
professor, and received in return a gift 
of cloth and beads, with which he 
seemed satisfied at the time. His ap- 
pearance was not pleasing, and inspired 
the whole party with distrust, so that 
they were careful not to show him any 
more of their })roperty than was neces- 
sary. 

King Chaquiunde — for such was the name of the Sova — departed in an 
hour or two with many professions of esteem for the strangers ; and as they 
intended to push on the next day, our travellers hoped that they had seen 

12 




CABANGO WOMAN S HEAD-DUESS. 



178 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



the last of him. He returned in the afternoon alone, however, and, after 
a somewhat lengthy conversation with Professor Moreton, began to put in 
a claim for sundry articles, declaring that he had sent another ox to the 

camp, and was entitled to pay- 
'"^ ment for it. The professor 

checked him promptly, telling 
him that he had sent them but 
one ox, for which he had been 
well paid, and requested him to 
leave the camp, as nothing more 
would be given him. The 
king, seeing the white man was 
firm, at once changed his tone, 
and apologized for the attempted 
trick, declaring that he had been 
put up to it by his macotas, or 
principal men, who intended to 
divide among themselves what- 
ever he could succeed in extort- 
ing from the whites. The pro- 
fessor treated him very coldly 
after this, and the Sova soon 
took his departure, very much 
crestfallen. 

The morning of the 13th of 
June was bitter cold, the mercury at six o'clock registering but two degrees 
above zero. The march was begun about eight o'clock, and continued until 
noon, when the party encamped once more on the banks of the Onda. The 
men were heavily laden, and showed some disposition to straggle, so Professor 
Moreton thought it best to make an early halt. 

Soon after the camp was constructed, the professor, Houston, and Lee 
started out to examine the country. Leaving the forest, they soon came across 
a village of ants, located in an open tract near the river. The " village," as 
Houston termed it, consisted of a number of hills with rounded tops, looking 
like stumps of trees covered with hemispherical cupolas, about forty-two inches 
in diameter at the base, by about the same in height. They examined the 
hills carefully, and found them constructed of the stiffest clay, which the in- 
sects, by a peculiar process, had rendered nearly as hard as stone. Houston 
fired his rifle at one, and found that the ball would not penetrate more than 
four inches into it. 

" These hills," said the professor, in reply to a question from Philip Lee, 




KING CHAQUIUNDE. 



FROM TiiK nun-: to TIIE ZAMHII'/J. 



\1\\ 



''are the habitations of tlie species of white ants i^nowii as frrmUcs. Tljoiigh 
they resemble the common ants in their social habits, they bcl()n<j^ to a differont 
order. They are one of the scourges of all troi)ical climates, and devour (^very- 
thing that comes in their way save iron and st<3ne. They increase with almost 
incre<lible rapidity, a single female liaving a ca})acity of laying as many as 
eighty thousand eggs in twenty-four hours. Wood and timber of all kinds 
are attacked by them ; and in some countries, so great is their industry, so 
rapid their operations, and so incredible their numbers, that they will consume 
all the woodwork of a house in a night or two. They have a great aversion 
to light, and invariably work under cover; hence, in attacking a tree, a post, 




a rafter, or a table, they eat out the interior, leaving the thinnest possible layer 
of the outer wood remaining. It frequently happens that after their depreda- 
tions have been committed no indication of the work appears to the eye ; but 
the least touch is sufficient to bring down the apparently solid structure, like a 
house of cards, amidst a cloud of blinding dust. They manifest a most re- 
markable instinct in some things. While a pillar, or the supporting posts of 
a house, or any incumbent weight has to be sustained, they guard against the 
crash w^hich would involve them in ruin by gradually filling up the hollowed 
posts with a sort of mortar or cement, leaving only a slender way for their own 
travel. Thus the posts are literally changed from wood to stone, and retain 
their solidity." 

" Have you noticed," asked Houston, " how closely this settlement of ants 
resembles a Quimbande village ?" 



180 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



"Yes," replied the professor; "the shape of the houses of these open- 
country ants is very different from those of the forest ants we have encountered, 
which are built in the form of true cones." 

In a little more than an hour after leaving the camp the professor and his 
young companions passed from the open country, and entered a noble forest, 
the ground of which was covered with a soft, green turf. Through the wood 
ran several brooks, tributaries of the Onda. Crossing the last of these, they 
wandered on, and suddenly came upon a beautiful lake. The water was as 
clear as crystal and very deep, with a bottom of fine white sand. The lake 

was bordered with magnificent trees, 
the luxuriant foliage of which was re- 
flected in the clear waters. Hundreds 
of birds chirped in the branches and 
skimmed lightly over the surface of 
the lake. The whole made up the 
most beautiful scene our travellers had 
witnessed in Africa. This was Lake 
Liguri, of whose beauties they had 
heard from the pombeiros, and also 
from the Sova Mavanda. 

The next day the march lay along 
the right bank of the Onda, through a 
dense forest. It was necessary to force 
their way through the thick growth, 
and as the ground was marshy, the 
progress of the party was difficult and 
slow. They were glad when they 
turned their backs upon the Onda, and 
found more solid footing. They went into camp about three o'clock in the 
afternoon on the banks of a small rivulet called the Bitovo, and were well dis- 
posed to enjoy a rest after their hard tramp of six hours. . 

On the 14th of June they followed the course of the Bitovo for a while, 
and then passed through a forest, which brought them to the valley of the 
Chiconde, a small, rapid rivulet, along which they moved until they reached 
the river Cuito, where they encamped. 

Soon after reaching the Chiconde, Hubbard, who had, contrary to his 
custom, been silent for a while, suddenly called out, — 
" Professor, only look aj: the stream !" 

" What is there remarkable about it?" asked Professor Moreton, in surprise. 
" Its waters are flowing in an opposite direction from those we have been 
following," replied the young man. 




A LUCHAZK OF THE BANKS OF THE RIVER CUITO. 



FROM rill-: lilUE TO THE ZAMIillZI. 



181 



Leaving t\w piirty to proceed, Professor Morcton, I IiihhMnl, and Ashtoii 
lingered a while beside the brook to determine its eonrsc, and found tliat it 
was indeed flowing to join the Cuito. Hitherto all the streams tliev had 
encountered sent their waters towards the Atlantic, but this one followed an 
opposite course. 

"Your discovery is an interesting one, Hubbard," said the j)rofessor, at 
length. *' It shows that we have snai)ped the last tie that binds us to the west 
coast of Africa. We are indeed in the heart of the continent." 

The Cuito w\as crossed on the 16th, and the party entered the country 
of the Luchazes. Our travellers found the land tolerably well cultivated, with 
both men and w^omen working in the fields. The principal crops were the 
massango, or canary seed, manioc, beans, castor-oil plant, and cotton, but all 
these were grown upon such a small scale that they were scarcely sufficient to 
supply the wants of the people. The Luchazes work in iron, which is found 
in their country, and make all such 
implements as they use. They col- 
lect wax from the hives of the wild 
bees of the forest, and barter it for 
dried fish, which the Quimbandes 
bring into their country. They are 
but little given to travelling, rarely 
leaving their villages except to hunt 
the antelope, which they value for 
its skin. Our travellers were much 
struck with their mode of producing 
fire, which they obtain by using a 
flint, steel, and tinder. They obtain 
their flints from the Quibocos or 
Quiocos, paying for them with wax ; 
but manufacture the steels themselves 

out of wrought iron, tempered by cold water, into which the iron is thrown 
while red hot. The tinder they prepare by mixing raw cotton with the 
crushed kernel of the stone of a fruit called micha. 

The camp was pitched for the night at the edge of a forest not far from 
the Cuito, and on the 17th the march was continued to the village of Bembe, 
on a stream of the same name, on the banks of which the expedition went 
into camp. 

Soon after the work of cutting down wood for the encampment began, the 
blacks were suddenly seized with a panic, and fled in all directions, howling 
lustily. The professor and Ashton hurried forward to see the cause of the 
alarm. On the very spot chosen for the camp they beheld issuing from the 





£ 



LPCHAZE TIXDER-BOX, FLINT, AND STEEL. 



182 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



earth millions of the terrible ant known to the Bihenos as the quissondcy and 
to science as the termites hellieosus, or warrior ant. At the same moment 
Charlie came running up, crying out excitedly, — 

" Must move the camp at once, Master 
^Fessor. Them very bad ants ; kill us all if 
we stay here. Kill elephant sometime!" 

The professor did not need any urging, 
and at once gave orders to remove the loads and 
pitch the camp a mile farther on. The order 
was obeyed with an alacrity which showed 
how much the Bihenos dreaded an encounter 
with their diminutive enemies. 

^' Is this ant as dangerous as the negroes 
consider it?" asked Houston of Professor 
Moreton, when the blacks had begun the con- 
struction of the camp at the new site selected 
for it. 

" They are dangerous to animals," replied 
the professor ; " but it is a disputed point 
whether they are fatal to a human being in 
good health. Their bite is very painful, how- 
ever, and they attack in such overwhelming 
numbers that resistance is useless. Safety lies 
in flight alone. They cling with such tenacity 
to the objects they attack that they will suffer 
themselves to be torn to pieces before they will relax their hold. It is said 
that they will even kill an elephant by swarming into his trunk and ears. 
However, we are well rid of them now, and I trust will see no more of them." 
As soon as the camp was begun the professor despatched messengers to the 
village of Bembe to purchase food ; but these returned with the announcement 
that the chief had ordered his people to sell no provisions to the strangers. 
Whether this was from churlishness, or because the natives did not have food 
to spare, it was impossible to tell. The next morning, however, the chief had 
the assurance to send several of his people to the camp to ask for presents. 
They were dismissed promptly by the professor, with a message to their master 
which was more forcible than courteous. Immediately after leaving camp, on 
the 18th of June, the party forded the Bembe, and for several hours marched 
across a marshy plain towards a mountainous region, at the foot of which they 
encamped on the bank of a brawling torrent. 

Early the next morning Charlie informed the professor that several of the 
natives had seen the tracks of buffaloes or some other large game leading past 




A LUCHAZE WOMAN ON THE ROAD. 



FROM THE lillli: TO THE ZAMJiEZI. 



183 




the oiiinj) towards the water. As the whoL' party were anxious to obtain 
fresh meat, wliich is always scarce in Africa, the professor decided to remain 
at the camp durino; tlie day, and aHow the yount^ men to in(hd<;e in a buffalo 
hunt. A hasty breakfast was despatched, and then the four younj; men, with 
Charlie and two of the armed negroes, started out. They soon found the trail, 
which led them to the stream at some 
distance from the camp. Proceeding 
cautiously along the water-side, they 
at length sighted five large buffaloes, 
grazing at the outskirts of a dense forest, 
and totally unconscious of their pres- 
ence. 

In a low tone Charlie cautioned the 
young men and the negroes not to speak, 
and they continued to creep stealthily 
through the undergrowth until they 
reached a })oint within eighty yards of 
the animals. Here they paused, almost 
holding their breath for fear of frighten- 
ing their game. Fortunately for them, 
the wind was from the direction of the 
bufllaloes. Had it been otherwise, the 
keen scent of the animals would have 

warned them of the presence of human beings. Ashton now directed the 
whole party to aim carefully at the buffaloes, and fire when he gave the word. 

"We can't afford to indulge in sport,'' he whispered to Houston. "We 
need the meat, and must do our best to get it." 

The guns were carefully aimed, and at Ashton's signal seven loud reports 
rang out upon the air. Tw^o of the animals fell dead, a third staggered madly 
about, while the other two bounded off into the forest. With a shout Houston 
sprang forward, and at the same moment the wounded buffalo, a large bull, 
perceiving him, made a dash at him. The movement was so quick that Hous- 
ton was taken by surprise, and for a moment was in danger. His companions 
shouted to him to run and leave them to settle with the beast ; but, recovering 
his self-possession, the young Californian raised his rifle and fired a second 
time. As he did so he sprang aside, just in time to avoid the infuriated 
animal, which tottered for a moment and then fell heavily to the ground, 
when a shot from Ashton's rifle finished liim. 

" Well done, Houston !" cried Hubbard. " I thought the fellow had you." 

" It was a close shave," said Ashton. " Only your quick hand saved you, 
my boy. You might try it again with worse luck." 



LUCHAZE WOMAN OF CAMBUTA. 



184 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



One of the negroes was now sent back to the camp for men to assist in 
cutting up the animals. They soon arrived, and the buffaloes were quartered, 
and then the party returned to the camp, well satisfied with their morning's 




SOUTH AFRICAN BUFFALO. 



work. During the day the negroes held high festival over their share of the 
flesh. 

In the afternoon some of the carriers brought in a lot of wild honey which 
they had found in the woods, and also a quantity of a fruit which they called 
atundo, which grows upon a stunted herbaceous plant. The fruit-stalks spring 
from the stem very close to the ground, and the fruit is as much below as 
abov^ the surface of the earth. Our travellers tasted it, and found it palatable 
enough, but the professor was inclined to doubt its being nutritive. 

The camp was astir betimes the next morning, which was cold and raw, 
and the travel lejfs were soon on the road. A march of a couple of hours 
brought them to k rapid stream about twelve het wide and as many feet- deep, 



FROM THE HI HE TO THE ZAMHEZI. 



185 



with steop banks, and a fierce, rapid onrrcnt. It was too decj) and swift to he 
forded, so they were forced to Uridine it. This was done i)y euttiniz: down some 
hirge trees, and throwinii; them across tlie stream, and on this primitive 
strneture the entire party passed over in safety. A short distance beh)w where 
they crossed tlie stream, the name of wliieh tliey af'teiwards learned wa.s Nhon- 
goavlranda, they encountered a rivulet flowing into it from the eastward, and 
following this for a couple of hours, the. halted for the night on the banks of 
another stream, the Cambinbia, opposite two Luchaze villages, and not far 
from a village of the Quiocos. 
They were visited during the after- 
noon by a number of the people 
of the last village, from whom 
they learned that the Quiocos, or 
Quibocos, as they are sometimes 
called^ had but recently emigrated 
to the Luchaze country. They 
said they had left their own country, 
farther to the north, on account of 
a pestilence and lack of food, and 
that their people were good trav- 
ellers and bold huntsmen. They 
reported the region in which they 
were then located as deficient in 
provisions, but added that beyond 
the mountain ridge towards which 
the travellers were journeying, and 
which was not far from the camp, 
there were several Luchaze villages, 
at which they would find an abundance of food. 

On the 21st of June the expedition left the Cambinbia and marched towards 
the Serra Cassara Cai^ra, the lofty mountain they had seen for several days, 
and beyond which, according to the Quiocos, they were to find an abundance 
of provisions. The ascent of the mountain w^as begun about two hours after 
starting, and was quite fatiguing. As they toiled up the steep, the carriers 
broke into a loud, monotonous chant, which Charlie translated as follows: 




Ll'CHAZE MAN OF CAMBUTA. 



The cobra has no jtrms, 
No legs, no hands, no feet ; 
And yet he climbs the mount ! 
Why should we not get up as well, 
With arms and legs and hands and feet ?' 



Our travellers found that the mountain formed a table-land, with tolerably 



186 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



steep slopes, attaining, as the barometer showed, a height of five thousand two 
hundred and ninety-eight feet above the sea, and four hundred and fifty feet 
above their camp of the previous day. Upon reaching the summit, they followed 
it for about an hour, and then came to the descent on the eastern side, from which 
they beheld the finest panorama they had met with on their journey. The 
view was very extensive, stretching from northeast to northwest, and embracing 
a large part of the vast water-shed of the Lungo-6-ungo, a tributary of the 



I— 







ARTICLES MANUFACTURED BY THE LUCHAZES. 

1 and 3. Hatchets. 2. Arrow. 4, 4. Arrow-points. 5. Spade. 

Zambezi, and the entire course of the Cuango, which empties into the former 
river. Descending the eastern slope of the mountain, they reached the source 
of a rivulet called the Cansampoa, the first water they had met with during 
the day's march. 

On the opposite side of the rivulet were five Luchaze hamlets, all subject 
to a petty chief named Cassangassanga, who came into the camp soon after it 
was pitched, bringing with him a kid as a present. He was suitably rewarded, 
and the professor succeeded in purchasing from him a quantity of massango 
for the men. The chief told him that at the village of Cambuta, a day's 
march farther on, he would find food in plenty. Thus encouraged, the expe- 
dition pushed on the next day, and, after a march of four hours, camped on 
the Bic^que, close to the village of Cambuta. 



FROM THE mill-: TO THE ZAMHEZI. 



187 



The Sova of Canibuta was absent on a luintinj^ expedition, hnt tlie strangers 
were kindly welcomed hy his wives-, who expressed tlieir willingness to sell 




VILLAGE OP CAMBDTA, LUCHAZE. 



them food. They even urged the professor to lay in a considerable store of 
provisions, as the country he would traverse beyond the river Cutangjo was a 
waste, unpopulated region, in which it would be impossible to obtain food. 
This decided the travellers to pass the 23d of June at Cambuta, for the purpose 




LUCHAZE PIPE. 



of obtaining supplies. A considerable quantity of massango was purchased, this 
being the only food to be had. It did not add to the burdens of the carriers, 
for the long journey had greatly lightened many of the loads, and the pro- 
visions thus purchased were assigned to the carriers whose burdens had grown 
less. 

Cambuta was left at nine o'clock on the morning of the 24th, and at noon 
the Cutangjo was crossed by fording it. Immediately after crossing the river 
the camp was pitched on its right bank, near the village of Chaquissembo. The 



188 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



travellers were much interested by their visit to this village, which they found 
to be well constructed and clean. The houses were made of the trunks of trees, 
four feet in height, which was the height of the walls, the space between each 
upright being filled in with mud or straw. The roofs were thatched, the frame- 
work bending inwards. The gran- 
aries were little more than enormous 
water-proof baskets perched upon a 
framework at a considerable height 
from the ground. They were made 
entirely of straw, and were reached by 
means of a ladder. 

In the centre of the village our 
travellers found a building used as a 
conversation house, or place of meet- 
ing. Here several men were squatted 
around the hearth, on which a fire was 
burning, making bows and arrows. 
They received the strangers politely, 
and offered them a drink of a liquor 
made of water, honey, and powdered 
hops, which they mix in a calabash 
and allow to ferment. They called 
it bingundo, and assured Charlie, who 
as usual acted as interpreter, that it was very good. Professor Moreton tried 
it, and declared that it was as near pure alcohol as the most hardened tippler 
could desire. 

On the 25th the march wis exceedingly difficult, as it lay through a dense 
jungle for the first three hours; but this was left behind at last, and early in 
the afternoon the camp was built on a slope of rising ground bordering an 
extensive marsh in which the Cuando, one of the principal tributaries of the 
Zambezi, takes its rise. The night was very cold, and the next morning the 
mercury registered only two degrees above zero. The entire party were aroused 
at daybreak by the shrieking of thousands of paroquets, which filled the trees 
around them, and fairly deafened them with their cries. They were soon on 
the road again, following the course of the Cuando for a couple of hours. At 
the end of this time they crossed the river by an improvised bridge of felled 
trees, which was easily built, as the stream was but seven feet wide. They 
camped at night on the left bank of the river, and the next day followed the 
stream again until noon, when they went into camp. 

The halting-place was in the midst of a grove of enormous trees, which 
the negroes called cuchibi, and which they hailed with delight. The fruit 




LUCHAZE FOWL-HOUSE. 



IROM TIIE nun-: TO THE /AMIiEZI. y^\) 

1 hcaii, and consists uC oik? bri'^it 



produced by the tivcs resembles a Froiu 
scarlet seed enelosetl in a dark- 
green liiisk. The seed is 
steeped by the natives in water, 
and after a few hours the 
scarlet envelope softens and is 
removed, leaving a white ker- 
nel, which is very oleaginous, 
and is highly esteemed as food 
by the natives, who also extract 
from it the oil with which 
they moisten their food. 
Close to the cuchibi trees an- 
other species of fruit-tree was 
found. It was of medium size, 
and was called by the natives 
the mapoleque. The fru-it, to 
which they gave the name ma- 
pole, resembled an orange both 
in size and color, and hung 
vertically from the tree by a long stalk. 




LUCHAZE WOMAN OF CUTANGJO. 




THE CtJCHIBT, 



The husk is so hard that it can be 
broken only with a strong hatchet. 
It contains a mass of thick and 
coagulated liquid, full of seeds 
like th^ stones of small plums. 
The liquid is of an acid-sweet 
taste, and when taken in any 
quantity is purgative. The pom- 
beiros assured the professor, how- 
ever, that it was exceedingly nu- 
tritive, and that a man could live 
on it for several days without other 
food. 

On the 28th the march was in 
an easterly direction, towards the 
sources of the Cubangui. The 
first part was across a troublesome 
marsh, through which the progress 
was slow ; and once over this, the 
travellers began the ascent of a 
spur of mountains running north 



190 



OVR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 




and south. The ridge was crossed by noon, and at two o'clock the camp was 
located on the border of a marsh in which the river Cubangui has its source. 
The next two days were spent in following the right bank of the river, and on 

the afternoon of the 30th of 
June the camp was built on the 
river shore, by a small rivulet 
called the Linde, in the neigh- 
borhood of several Ambuella vil- 
lages, from which a small supply 
of massango was obtained. 

The march of July 1st 
brought the expedition to the 
village of the Sova of Can- 
gamba, and the camp was built 
a short distance beyond it. The 
professor at once despatched a 
present to the Sova in the shape 
of an old uniform coat gayly 
trimmed with gilt braids, and 
with a profusion of buttons. 
This so delighted the monarch 
that he gave prompt orders to 
his people to sell the strangers all the food they wished to purchase. The only 
thing that could be obtained, however, was massango, of which the whole party 
had begun to be heartily tired ; but as there was no escape from it, they had to 
make the best of it. 

The pombeiros reported that some of their men were footsore, and were sick 
from the effects of the food they had been subsisting on, and begged the pro- 
fessor to remain in camp the next day to allow them to rest. This was agreed 
to, and the 2d of July was spent at Cangamba. Finding that the natives had 
stores of dried fish and manioc, the professor succeeded in purchasing three 
days' supply for his party, and the change of diet was greatly enjoyed by the 
blacks as well as by the whites. 

During the day a band of elephant hunters from the north arrived, and 
camped near the halting-place of the expedition. This was the first time our 
travellers had heard of elephants since their departure from Benguela, and 
they were eager to obtain information concerning them. The hunters told 
them that the elephant country was still six days' march to the southward, and 
that none of the animals were ever seen in the country through which the 
travellers were journeying. 

In the afternoon the party had a visit from the Sova of Cangamba, a fine- 



1 



LUCHAZE OF THE CUTANGJO. 



FROM TIIK HI HE TO Till': ZAMBEZI. 



191 



looking negro, named Moene-Cahenga 



ot niassani^-o aiu 






lie brought witli lilin a large basket 
four chickens, and was rewarded with some clotli and beads. 
He was dressed in the uniform sent Mm by the professor, to which he had 
added several leopard skins hung 
from a belt around his waist. In 
his hand he carried an instrument 
made of antelopes' tails, which 
the young men were at first in- 
clined to think a sort of sceptre 
or badge of authority ; but which 
they found was meant for the 
humbler office of keeping off tlu^ 
flies. 

From the Sova our travellers 
obtained much interesting infor- 
mation respecting his people. He 
told them that the fields .were cul- 
tivated by both men and women, 
and that they grew massango, 
manioc, a little cotton, and a still 
smaller quantity of sweet pota- 
toes. His people w^re good 
workers in iron, which was pro- 
cured from mines on the right 
bank of the Cubangui to the north 
of Cangam.ba ; the men also made 
baskets and the women mats. 
The cotton grown in the country 

was woven by rude looms into cloth, which our travellers found to be of an 
excellent quality, though the pieces were only as large as an ordinary towel. 
The arms of his people, the Sova told them, consisted of bows and arrows and 
small hatchets ; they had no guns, though he would be glad to procure a few. 

On the 3d of July the party set out again, camping for the night on the 
right bank of the Cubangui. The next day the river was crossed by means 
of the mackintosh boats, and the march was continued in a southeasterly 
direction, through an uninteresting and depopulated country. All through 
the next three days the party pushed on, and on the 6th of July encamped 
on the right bank of the Cuchibi River. 

The country along this part of the Cuchibi was entirely unpopulated, but 
was very interesting. The river flowed through a long valley, enclosed by 
gentle slopes of mountains covered with a dense forest. The valley was 




MOENE-CAHEXGA, SOVA OF CAyGAMBA. 

1. Fly-flap. 



192 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



perfectly dry, and the stream flowed in long, gentle carves, so that at a distance 
it seemed almost straight. Game was more plentiful, and Houston and his 




LUCHAZE ARTICLES. 

1. Knife-sheath. 2. Basket. 3. Wooden bolster. 4. Bee-hive. 

companions succeeded in bringing down half a dozen antelopes, which furnished 
a meal for the party. Rats were also plentiful, and the Biheno carriers suc- 
ceeded in catching a number, which they ate with a keen relish. 




HATCHET OF THE AMBUELLAS OP CANGAMBA. 



Four days of steady marching succeeded the halt on the 6th, the route 
lying along the right bank of the Cuchibi, and on the 10th the camp was built 




AMBUELLA PIPE. 



FliOM rilK lilJlK To THE ZAMIlllZI. ] (j3 

near tlic AmhiuHa villau^e of Calni-heil-uc, where llie Suva ol" the Ciiehihi 
country liad Ins lesidenee. 

The })()iul)eir()s were well j)leased to reaeh this point, whieh they said wa."5 
a station on the regnlar ronte of* the Biheno caravans to the Zambezi. 

Seareely liad the camp been completed when a stranger came in and asked 
to see the white chief. He was brought before the professor, and stated that 
he was a Biheno, and had 
been left at the village on 
account of sickness, by a 
caravan three years before. 
He l)egged to be taken into 
the service of the white 
men, in order that he might 
be able to return home with 
his countrymen when they 
left the party. As the loads 
were growing lighter daily, 

in conseijuence of the withdrawal from them of the goods necessary for the 
purchase of food and for presents to the chiefs along the route, there was no 
actual necessity for engaging the man ; but the fellow was so eager, and looked 
so pitiful, that the professor summoned several of the Bihenos, and told them 
the man's story. Several of the men recognized him as a fellow-countryman, 
and two knew him by name. Having secured this identification, Professor 
Moreton consented to engage the stranger, who was Avild with joy at his good 
fortune. 

The man brought news, however, which caused our travellers considerable 
anxiety. He told them that there had been a revolution in the Baroze country, 
to which they were journeying, and that the native king, Manuauino, had been 
expelled, and another made king in his place, of whom nothing was known. 
The professor had learned from Silva Porto and from his agent at Belmonte 
that although Manuauino was very ferocious and cruel to his own people, he 
was very hospitable to strangers. They had counted upon his assistance to 
enable them to descend the Zambezi, and they had no means of judging what 
their reception at the hands of his successor would be. 

The professor now^ sent a present to the Sova of Cahu-heii-iie, consisting of 
some cloth and three yards of copper wire, which Silva Porto had told him 
was used by the Ambuellas for making bracelets. The Sova was much pleased 
with the present, and sent back a number of his people with provisions and a 
considerable quantity of Indian corn. The latter was gladly received, as the 
change from massango was a pleasant one. The Sova also sent word that he 

would visit the can^.p the next day. 

18 



194 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Our travellers were informed by the pombeiros that the people of the 
Deighborhood were the pure Ambiiellas, while those they had hitherto met 
were very much mixed with the Luchazes. They were struck with the peculiar 
manner in which the villau:es were constructed. These are situated eitlier on 




HE QUICHOBO. 



islands in the rivers or upon piles driven down into the stream. As the in- 
habitants possess the only canoes in the country, they are thus secure from 
invasion, and have but little fear of their enemies. 

The next morning the Sova Cahu-heu-tie arriv^ed at the camp with a number 
of his people. As Houston declared, he was '^the most respectable-looking 
darkey" they had met with during their journey. He was well advanced in 
years, and very black, but with an intelligent and kindly face. He was better 
dressed than any of the native chiefs had been thus far, and in addition to an 
old uniform coat Avore a large cloak of white linen, with a handsome colored 
handkerchief around his neck. On his head was a cap of red and black 
woollen stuff. He carried an accordeon or concertina in his hands, and as 



FROM rill-: null', ro rm: zamiuizi. 



1 1);l 



he advanced towards tlie whites (h*ew froii 
brought with iiini an additional pres- 
ent of maize, manioc, beans, and fowls, 
which the professor returned with 
some copper and brass wire and a 
small quantity of gunpowder, the la«t 
beino; the most valuable o-ift that 
could be offered in the Arabuella 
country. 

Duriuij the conversation which 
followed, the old king agreed to sell 
the party supplies of corn, manioc, 
and beans, but stated that it would 
take several days for him to collect 
what was wanted and send it in. 
When questioned as to the change 
of sovereigns in the Baroze country, 
he said he knew but little about it. 
He paid tribute to the monarch of 
the Baroze, he said, in order to avoid 
war, though it was an unjust claim ; but as 



il the most doleful sounds. lie 





THK SOVA CAHU-HEtJ-tjE. 

the time for payment of the tribute 
had not yet come, he had heard 
nothing of a change of sovereigns. 
He took his departure about noon, 
w^ell pleased with his visit; and 
during the stay of our travellers in 
his territory he called upon them 
frequently, bringing them presents 
of food, and receivino" in return a 



little 



gunpowder 



hich he re- 



AMBUELLA WOMAN. 



garded as ample payment. 

Soon after the visit of the Sova 
some of the negroes of the expe- 
dition brought into the camp two 
Mucassequeres, whom they had 
captured in the forest. The fel- 
lows were perfect savages in ap- 
pearance, though they seemed 
harmless enough, and spoke a dia- 
lect which was very different from 
any the travellers had yet heard, 



196 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



and much harsher. Fortunately they knew a few words of the Ambuella 
tongue, and by means of an interpreter the professor managed to communicate 
with them. They were badly frightened, and expected either to be put to 
death, or to be kept in slavery for the rest of their days. Professor Moreton 

reassured them, however, by returning 
their bows and arrows which had been 
taken from them, and telling them they 
were free, and might return to their 
people. He also gave them something 
to eat, and presented them with a string 
of beads apiece for their wives. Their 
surprise knew no bounds at such unex- 
pected kindness, but was manifested 
more by signs and gestures than by 
words. 

They told the professor that they be- 
longed to a village situated in the forest, 
not far from the camp, and that they 
were engaged in searching for roots in 
the woods when captured by his people. 
As the Mucassequeres were so differ- 
ent from any of the tribes he had yet 
met. Professor Moreton was anxious to 
see more of them, and asked the men if 
they would conduct him and his companions to their village. The m'en 
hesitated for a while, but after discussing the matter between themselves, 
answered that they were willing to conduct the professor and two of his com- 
panions to their village, but no more. Their people, they added, had but 
little to do with strangers, and if they brought many into the village they 
would draw down upon themselves the anger of their countrymen. 

Professor Moreton chose Ashton and Houston as his companions in the 
visit, and taking with him a few strings of beads as presents, set out with the 
savages for their homes. Upon leaving the camp, they plunged at once into 
the forest, walking so rapidly that the professor and his companions had hard 
work to keep up with them. An hour's walk at this pace brought them to the 
village or camp of the Mucassequeres, which was situated in the centre of a 
patch of cleared ground. 

The camp was of the rudest description, consisting merely of five huts 
formed of the branches of trees bent over, and interlaced with others. The 
inmates were fifteen in number, three other men, seven women, and five chil- 
dren, all nearly naked, their only covering consisting of small monkey skins. 




THE KING OP AMBUELLA S ELDEST DAUGHTER. 



FROM Tin: iniif: to tiii-: zamhuzl 



\\)1 



They presented a most, wretclied and ivvoltin.^r appoanince, and wen. the 

ugliest IiuMian beings our travellers had seen in Afrl«i. Tlicir eyes were small 

and out of the right line; their cheek- ' ^ 

bones very high and far apart; the 

nose flat to the face, with enormously 

wide nostrils; the hair, which was crisp 

and woolly, growing in separate patches, 

the thickest being on top of the head. 

Around their wrists and ankles they 

wore strips of the hair of some animal, 

but whether as an ornament or charm 

the })rofessor and his companions could 

not tell. The men were armed simply 

with bows and arrows. A fire was 

burning in the camp, but there were no 

signs of cooking utensils. The food of 

the people consists of roots and frao-- 

ments of flesh roasted on wooden spits. 

Salt is unknown to them. 

As they could not speak to the Mu- 
cassequeres, the visitors made their stay 
a short one. The professor gave each of the women a few beads. They re- 
ceived them in a listless, indifferent way, manifesting neither pleasure nor 
gratitude. The whole appearance of the people was so utterly wretched that 
the pity of the visitors was aroused. After remaining in the village half 
an hour they managed to make their guides understand that they wished to 




^^^' 



KING OF AMBUELLa's VOUNGEST DAUGHTER 




CUCHIBI CANOE AND PADDLE. 



return. A walk of another hour through the woods brought them to their 
own camp, the guides leaving them abruptly, and without a word or sicm on 
the verge of the forest. ^ ' 

During their stay on the Cuchibi, the travellers learned that the Mucasse- 
queres occupy, jointly with the Ambuellas, the territory lying between the 
Cuando and the Cuchibi, the former dwelling in the forests and the latter on 
the rivers. " They hold but little communication with each other, but, on the 



198 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



South tropical Africa. 



other hand, they do not break out into hostilities. When pressed by hunger, 
the Mucassequeres will come over to the Ambuellas and procure food by the 
barter of ivory and wax. Each tribe would seem to be independent, and not 
recognize any common chief. If they do not fight with their neighbors, 
they nevertheless quarrel among themselves; and the prisoners taken in these 
conflicts are sold as slaves to the Ambuellas, who subsequently dispose of them 
to the Bihe caravans. The Mucassequeres may be styled the true savages of 
They construct no dwelling-houses or anything in the 
likeness of them. They are born under the shadow 
of a forest-tree, and so they are content to die. 
They despise alike the rains which deluge the earth 
and the sun which burns it, and bear the rigors 
of the seasons with the same stoicism as the wild 
beasts. In some respects they would seem to be 
even below the wild denizens of the jungle, for the 
lion and tiger have at least a cave or den in which 
they seek shelter, while the Mucassequeres have 
neither. As they never cultivate the ground, imple- 
ments of agriculture are entirely unknown among 
them ; roots, honey, and the animals caught in the 
'chase constitute their food, and each tribe devotes 
its entire time to hunting for roots, honey, and game. 
They rarely sleep to-day where they lay down yester- 
day. The arrow is their only weapon; but so 
dexterous are they in its use, that an animal sighted 
is as good as bagged. Even the elephant not un- 
frequently falls a prey to these dexterous hunters, 
whose arrows find every vulnerable point in his 
otherwise impervious hide. The two races which 
inhabit this country are as different in personal 
appearance as they are in habits. The Ambuelia, 
for instance, is a black of the type of the Caucasian race ; the Mucassequere is 
a white of the type of the Hottentot race, in all its hideousness." 

On the morning of the 12th the king of Ambuelia sent three canoes with 
a message to the professor, asking him to visit him at his own village &f Cahu- 
heu-tle, and to bring his ''sons'' with him. Leaving Hubbard — who was not 
feeling well — to look after the camp, the professor and the other young men set 
out to visit the monarch, taking Charlie with them as interpreter. Proceeding 
to the river they found the canoes, each in charge of a female rower. As the 
little boats were insufficient for the entire party, Charlie was sent back to the 
camp for one of the mackintosh boats. The professor and Ashton undertook 




DRUM USED AT AMBUELLA FEASTS. 



FiioM Tin: mill-: ro 'riir. z.\mi',i:zi. 



\\V,) 



the ii:iviij;:it ion ot' tlic mackintosh, wliilo Ilou.slou, J^ec, aiul Charlie embarked 
in the etmoes. They were soon out in the stream, ami the girls proved them- 
selves so expert with their paddles that the white men found it diflicMdt to keep 
up with them. A row of about an hour brought thc»m to a nuniber of marshy 
islets situated in a bend of the river. The islands were separated by numerous 
canals, which lormed a perfect labyrinth, winding among the thick reeds which 
grew in the marshy soil. A sudden bend in one of the canals brought the 
boats to the royal village, which consisted of some twenty or more huts of 





AMBUELLA tHIEf, 



AMBUELLA HI NTKR. 



cane built upon piles, and elevated about six feet above the ground. The roofs 
of the huts were composed of thatch, and were pointed. On one of the islands 
somewhat larger than the rest were a dozen huts, which comprised the royal 
quarter. One hut was occupied by the Sova himself, four more by his four 
wives, and the rest were storehouses. In front of the king's hut was a rustic 
trophy consisting of the skulls and horns of animals and other spoils of the 
chase. The lints were small, badly constructed, and afforded but a poor shelter 
to their occupants. 

The Sova received his guests at the landing-place, accompanied by two of 
his favorites, and conducted them to a cleared spot in front of his dwelling, 
W'here the ])eople of the village w^ere gathered in silence. Pieces of matting 
were spread on the ground, and upon these the monarch and his favorites 



200 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



seated themselves, and invited the guests to do likewise. No sooner were the 
strangers seated than the favorites coQimenced clapping the palms of their 
hands together vigorously, after which they scraped up a little earth, rubbed it 
on their breasts, and repeated rapidly and many times the words bamba and 
calunga, again clapping their hands, but not so vigorously as before. This 
was the Ambuella mode of opening a conversation with the sovereign. 

After some remarks had passed, the king desired to see the boat that had 




ROYAL VILLAGE OP CAHU-HEU-TJe, ON THE CUCHIBI. 



brought the professor, and made a short excursion in it on the river. He was 
profoundly astonished at its construction and floating power, and begged the 
professor not to sell any like it to the other tribes, as he and his people would 
be lost if he did, their only safety consisting in their monopoly of the canoes 
of that region. The professor assured him that he had nothing to fear, as the 
white men had no more such boats than they needed for their own use on 
their journey. 

Upon returning to his island the king sent for a calabash of bingundo and 



iRoM Tin: HI in: ra the /amiu:zi. 



201 




A 



a tin Clip, l^'illiDi; the cup with the Inatniun- Ii(pi(.r, he aHoucil ;i few drops 
to fall upon the jxrountl, and, C()vorin<r the phice with eaith, tossed od' the con- 
tents ot' the cup at a (lraui;ht. 
He then otlered the liquor to 
his guests; but upon being 
told bv Charlie that the white 
men drank water only, he 
passed it to his favorites, who 
soon finished what was left. 

Some further conversation 
followed, and in about an 
hour the professor and his 
companions took their leave, 
and set or.t on their return to 
their camp, which was reached 
early in the afternoon. 

Upon i-eaching the camp 
they found it alive with merriment. A number of Ambuella women and girls 
had arrived, and ^vere dancing with the negro carriers to the music of native 
instruments. As the sport was good-natured, and there was no carousing, the 
professor did not interfere with it. 

Late in the afternoon a couple of large cobras and several venomous scor- 
pions were killed in the camp, but not before a few of the negroes had been 





AMBl'KLLA AIMtOW 



J3-JI BC U 



ASSEGAIS OF THE AMBUELLAS. 



bitten by the latter. The bites were not fatal, however, and resulted only in 
painful swellings and inflammation of the parts attacked. 

During the next three days the Sova kept his word, and sent in supplies 
of maize, manioc, and beans, for which the professor paid in cloth, gunpowder, 
and copper and brass wire. 

The provisions being all in and prepared for transportation by the night 
of the 15th of July, the professor and his companions resolved to resume their 
journey the next day. Accordingly they left Cahu-heti-ue early on the morn- 
ing of the 16th, following the banks of the stream for a couple of hours until 
they came to a ford, where they crossed it. The water w^as breast-high and 
the current very swift, so that the passage consumed two hours more. The 
whole party was so fatigued by the operation that soon after passing the river 
they went into camp near the village of Lienzi. They were cordially wel- 



202 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS JN AFRICA. 



corned by tlie inhabitants of the village, who brought ont a large number of 
fowls for sale. Tiiese were purchased, and every man in the camp supped that 
night off chicken. The next day they made a painful march of six hours 
through a tangled forest, where not a drop of water was to be had, and in the 
afternoon reached the right bank of the Cuchibi, sorely parched with thirst. 
During the night they were kept awake by the roaring of lions and leopards, 
which roamed around the camp all through the hours of darkness ; but the 




FORDING THE CUCHl 



next morning not a trace of an animal could be seen. The march of the 18tli 
of July was very trying. The Cuchibi was crossed by a bridge left by some 
former caravan, but beyond the stream was a marshy plain which the party 
traversed wdth difficulty, the men often sinking in the bog up to their waists. 
The river was found to be full of fish, and several small crocodiles were seen. 
The men were so fatigued by the journey across the morass that, upon reaching 
a suitable place in the forest beyond it, the professor ordered the camp to be 
built. 



FROM Till': HI UK TO THE z.\Miii:zi. 



203 



On the 19th a small rivulot was ionlcd soon nl'lci* Icaviiii:; the camj), aixl 
then tiic party came upon a lake a eonple of hundred yai'ds wide, across whi(;li 
they were ol)liii;e(l to wade, with the water up to their waists. The (;anip wa.s 
pitched by a small, sluo^gish stream, called the Combule, an aflluent of the 
Chicului ; and on the afternoon of the 20th the ])arty lialted at the source of" 
the river Nintla, after a difficult march through a thorny forest, through which 
they liad literally to cut their way. The pombeiros informed the professor 
that the Ninda was noted for the number and ferocity of the wild beasts tiiat 
haunted its banks, and advised him to enclose the ciimp with a much stronger 
stockade than usual. The advice was taken, and the camp was protected by a 
stockade and abattis, which rendered it impenetrable to any attack of the deni- 
zens of the forest. Nor were these precautions useless, for our travellers were 




11 01' THK CrCHIIil. 



much disturbed during the night by the loud roaring of lions, to which were 
added the yells of a pack of hyenas near morning. 

The men had suffered so much from the march through the thorny forest 
that Professor Moreton decided to remain in camp during the day, in order to 
give them a rest. As they had now reached the first stage of their journey 
where elephants appear, he sent out several of the men during the day to see 
if they could discover any traces of them, but nothing could be found but some 
old tracks. Houston and Lee went out with their rifles in the afternoon, and 
succeeded in killing a fine buffalo, which furnished the party with fresh meat 
for their evening meal. 

During the next three days the journey lay along the right bank of the 
Ninda; but on the 25th a deviation from the river became necessary, as the 
reeds and cane which lined its bank were impenetrable. The camp that night 
was pitched near the village of Calombeu, a sort of advanced post of the sov- 
ereign of the Baroze country. 

The people of the village proved very inhospitable, and refused to sell any 
provisions. This was very annoying, as a number of the Biheno carriers fell 
sick, and the party was detained in camp for the next two days on their account. 
The provisions laid in on the Cuchibi were running low, and the professor was 
anxious to push on. The camp was also pitched in a most uncomfortable 
region, the vast plain of the Nhengo lying three thousand nine hundred feet 
above the level of the sea. Though apparently dry, the ground was but little 



204 O^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

better than a sponge, yielding slowly but surely to the weight of the body, the 
water oozing up and filling every depression thus made. This peculiarity 
caused the professor to be extremely anxious for the health of his young com- 
panions and his men, and he resolved to push on on the 28th, if only for a few 
miles. 

On the evening of the 27th of July he was sitting in the door of his tent, 
conversing with the young men, when a stranger, followed by a boy and a 
woman, suddenly entered the camp, and, coming rapidly forward, seated him- 
self at the professor's feet. 

The new-comer w^as a negro, tall and powerfully made, but dressed in rags. 
What had once been a mantle hung in tatters from his shoulders, and a ragged 
cap adorned his head. The rest of his clothes were torn and soiled, and his 
whole appearance indicated a recent experience of hardship. His weapons 
were borne by the boy, and in his hand he carried a stout stick. His face was 




CHIPULO OR NHELE. 



a remarkable one, indicating determination, firmness, and a high order of in- 
telligence, and his manner was quick and decided. 

"Who are you, and what do you want of me?'' asked the professor, sternly, 
speaking in the Biheno tongue, of which he had mastered enough to carry on 
a short conversation. 

The man looked him calmly in the eye, and answered simply, — 

" I am Caiumbuca, and have come to seek you." 

In an instant the whole party were on their feet, with hands outstretched 
to the stranger, in whom they beheld the man they had most wished to see in 
Africa. He was indeed Caiumbuca, the old pombeiro of Sllva Porto, and the 
boldest and most daring of the Bih6 traders, whose name was known from 
Nyangwe to Lake Nyami. Before leaving Benguela, Silva Porto had repeat- 
edly said to the professor, — 

"On reaching the Bih6 seek out Caiumbuca, engage him in your service, 
and you will have the best assistant you can meet with in all South Central 
Africa." 

On reaching the Bih6 the professor had sought him in every direction, but 



j-jioM Till-: mill-: to tin: zamhi/ai 



205 



witliout success. "He is tjjoiie into \\w inlcrior, and iiohody knows wIhtc," 
was the unvarying answer to his inquiries. Caiuinhuca now cxphiined that he 
was on the Cuando, just below the conHuence of the Cuchibi, when the expe- 
dition '-cached the Ainbuelhi country. Hearing of the presence of white men 
from Beuiiuehi, he liad liastencd across tlie country with the woman and boy 
to join them. 

A long conversation followed, and ended by the ])rofessor engaging Caium- 
buca to join the ]>arty as confidential adviser. He spoke all the languages of 
the region, and knew the country well from actual experience, and i)r()inised to 
be of special service to them in their dealings with the monarch of the Baroze 
country. 

On the 28th of July the carriers were better, and the party made a forcetl 
march of six hours, camping on the right bank' of the river Nhen'j;o, which is 
in fact the lower Ninda. The 
party remained in camp the 
next day, and the professor 
sent out a number of men to 
the neighborinii: villao:es to 
purchase food ; but the natives 
would neither sell them pro- 
visions nor have anything to 
do with them. This was now 
a serious matter, as the pro- 
visions were running low, and 
it w'as absolutely necessary to 
procure food somewhere. 

By the advice of Caium- 
buca, the professor sent one 
of the negroes ahead to the 
capital of the Baroze monarch, 
to inform him of the arrival 
of the white men in his 
country, and of their intended 
visit to him. The man was 
one of the most trustworthy 

fellows in the command, and was promised a handsome reward if he would 
push on quickly, and return as soon as possible, the professor informing him 
of the route the party would pursue after leaving their present camp. 

During the afternoon several of the negroes, who had ventured some 
distance from the camp, came rushing into the enclosure, hotly pursued by a 
couple of lions. The young Americans caught up their rifles to have a shot 




E MALANCA. 



206 ^U^ FOUNG FOLKS JN AFRICA. 

at the beasts, but the latter gave up the chase as they drew near the camp, and, 
wheeling, bounded off into the forest. 

On the 30th a forced march of eight hours, away from the river, brought 
the party to the banks of a lake, near a collection of villages, which Caium- 
buca called Cacapa. The professor at once sent Caiumbuca with several of the 
negroes to the villages to procure food, while the rest set about building the 
camp. Towards nightfall the messengers returned, and reported that the 
inhabitants, who were a part of the Ganguella race, held in subjection by the 
Luinas or Barozes, had not only refused to sell them food, but showed a 
decided disposition to hostilities. Caiumbuca was indignant at the reception 
he had met with. 

"They have a plenty of sweet })otatoes and manioc," he said to the pro- 




fessor; "but they are surly fellows. If these were my- men, and I had as 
many guns as you, I would go there to-morrow and take what I wanted.'' 

" But we should have to fight for it," said the professor. 

"Your guns will scare them,'' continued Caiumbuca. "You need only 
fire a few shots, and they will surrender to you." 

During the evening the professor had an anxious consultation with his 
young companions. It was certainly necessary to procure food at once. The 
provisions brought from the Cuchibi would last only one day longer, and they 
were ignorant of what was in store for them beyond. Ashton and Houston 
were in favor of adopting Caiumbuca's suggestion, and compelling the people 
to supply the needed provisions ; but the professor hesitated to resort to violence. 
Finally, as the matter admitted of no delay, it was resolved to make another 
offer to purchase food the next morning, and, if this were refused, to seize the 
town, take what they needed, and then pay for it. This decision was com- 
municated to Caiumbuca, Charlie, and the pombeiros, and was heartily endorsed 
by them. 

At daybreak on the 31st of July, Caiumbuca and several of the blacks 
were sent forward to the villages to make another effort to procure food 
peaceably, but were driven off with insults and threats of violence. Upon 



iiioM Tin: nun: to the /.\m/:/:/.i. 207 

their rotiirn to tlic camj) the proi'cssor calhMl his |)(m»|>Ic to^ctlici-, and told them 
tliat as all his attempts to j)ro(iirc! provisions had hccii ivpulscd hy the ill- 
natured vilhiiTors, he liad resolved to attack the |)laee, and compel the people to 
supply what they needed. lie was answered with a shout of approval, (inns 
and ammunition were issued to Caiumhuca, the pomheiros, and several of the 
Biheno carriers who had proved themselves most trustworthy on the march, 
so that the professor found himself at the head of twenty-four men, white and 
black, armed with guns and rifles, and about sixty blacks bearing bows and 
arrows and assegais. Mombee and three of the carriers wctc left in charge of 
the camp, with strict orders to remain n the enclosure, and to allow no one to 
enter it until the return of the attacking party. 

About nine o'clock the march was begun towards the villages. Arriving 
near them, they found all the entrances closed, and about two hundred blacks, 
armed with bows, arrows, assegais, and hatchets, avSsembled about the central 
village, which was the residence of the chief. Bringing his men into line, the 
professor ordered them to open fire on the chief's compound, but to aim over 
the heads of the ntitives, in order to avoid shedding blood, as he wished to 
frighten rather than injure the blacks. 

Three volleys w^re fired in quick succession, and were answered by a flight 
of arrows. As the smoke from the third volley cleared away, the natives set 
up a howl of terror, threw down their arms, and huddled together in confusion. 
Professor Moreton thereupon ordered his men to cease firing, and advanced 
rapidly with them to the terror-stricken blacks. The chief at the same time 
came forward and held up his hands to show that his people had surrendered. 
He was seized by order of the professor, and the victors entered the village, 
leaving a small guard at the entrance to keep the natives in check. Proceeding 
to the general storehouses, which were in the chief's compound, the professor 
found an ample supply of sweet potatoes and manioc. He took enough to 
supply the expedition for four days, and then set out on his return to the 
camp, carrying with him the chief and half a dozen of the villagers as pris- 
oners. 

Upon reaching the camp Professor Moreton paid the chief in cloth and 
beads for the captured provisions, and then ordered the prisoners to be released, 
telling them they w^ere free to return to their homes. He gave them a sharp 
lecture upon their folly in refusing to be friendly with white men, and told 
the chief he would report the affair to the king of the country upon his arrival 
at the capital. The chief was astounded at the generosity of the whites, and 
humbly begged the professor not to get him into trouble with the king, prom- 
ising that his people should sell him provisions whenever he might need them. 
The professor, who had no idea of bringing the matter to the notice of the 
king, consented to be silent in consideration of the chief's promise of good 



208 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



behavior in the future; aud the latter soon after took his departure, with many 
expressions of gratitude and promises of friendship. 

On the 1st of August camp was 
broken and the march resumed, the halt 
for the night being near Canhete, the 
first village occupied by the Luina race. 
The inhabitants proved very friendly, 
and provisions were brought into the 
camp in considerable quantities for sale. 

Soon after nightfall the negro Cainga, 
who had been sent on to the kino; to 
inform him of the arrival of the expe- 
dition in the country, returned in safety. 
He was accom[)anied by several chiefs, 
who brought with them six oxen as pres- 
ents from the king. These were a very 
Godsend to the travellers, w^ho had been 
so long without meat, and were gladly 
welcomed. 

Cainga reported that the king of the 
Baroze seemed highly pleased at the 
prospect of a visit from so many white 
men, and intended giving them a splen- 
did reception. With a view to display- 
ing his greatness, he had ordered a number of canoes to be gotten in readiness 
at the point where the expedition would cross the Zambezi, in order that the 
whole caravan might pass the stream at once. The king, Cainga said, was 
a young man of about twenty years, and had been much pleased when he 
heard there were four young men in the party, declaring that he was sure they 
would become friends. The Luina chiefs, who had come from his majesty, 
brought a cordial message of welcome, and urged the professor to resume his 
march the next day, in order that they might reach the royal city as soon as 
possible. 

Still the professor was not entirely reassured. He was sufficiently aware 
of the treachery that underlies the character of African monarchs not to place 
too much reliance upon the king's messages. They were better, however, than 
a hostile reception, and there was nothing left but to go on and trust in Provi- 
dence for the future. 

Canhete was left on the morning of the 2d of August, and in the afternoon 
the party encamped near the village of Tapa. On the 3d a fresh start was 
made at eight o'clock, and in an hour the route brought the travellers to the 




A LUINA HUNTER. 



FROM Tin-: III lit: to tiii: z.i.u /;/;//. 



209 



right bank of the Nhen<^(), which {\w\ followed lor another lioiir, wlieii tliey 
reached its conHiienee with the Zainhe/i. 

The entire piirty greeted the great river with enthusiasm, and a general 
halt was made upon tlie shore to enjoy a view of it. The river flowed with a 
dull, sluggish current, but gave evidence of being very deep. Some distauce 
out in the water a group of Iiippopotami were resting, with their huge heads 
above the surface of the stream. Houston raised his rifle and fired at one, and 
they instantly disappeared, but the crimson tint of the water showed that the 
ball had been well aimed. An enormous crocodile, 
basking in the? sun on an islet in the stream, lifted his 
head lazily, and glanced around, and a second shot sent 
him scampering into the water. 

The emotions of the professor and his young com- 
panions as they gazed upon the niighty river, which 
was slowly rolling its waters towards the Indian Ocean, 
are hard to describe. They felt a thrill of triumph at 
having carried their enterprise successfully thus far, but 
at the same time could not repress a feeling of misgiving 
for the future. A piece of wood thrown into the slowly 
moving current of the Liambai, as the upper Zambezi 
is called, might, in time, reach the far-off sea; but 
would they be so fortunate? Who could tell? 

They were aroused from these thoughts by a shout, 
which announced the arrival of the canoes sent by the 
king to ferry the party across the river. The prepara- 
tions for the passage w^ere soon made, and by noon the 
travellers were on the left bank of the Zambezi. The 
march was then resumed in an easterly direction, and 
two hours later a wide but shallow branch of the Zam- 
bezi was forded. On the opposite bank our travellers 
found a large number of Luinas, who had been sent by 

the king, waiting to receive them. These fell into line in advance of the 
party, and all hastened on eastward, passing several lakes which had to be 
avoided, and about five o'clock in the afternoon arrived in front of the town 
of Lialui, the great ca])ital of the Baroze, or kingdom of the Lui. 




LTJI.VA SHIELD. 



14 




CHAPTER IX. 

ADVENTUFvES IN THE LUI COUNTKY. 

HALTING for a short time to enable his men to close up well, the pro- 
fessor led them towards the town, which was surrounded by a strong 
stockade. At the entrance the travellers were met by one of the dignitaries 
of the court, accompanied by thirty attendants, who welcomed them in the 
name of the king. They were then conducted through parallel lines of war- 
riors extending from the gate of the town to the quarters set apart for the 
strangers. Before reaching these the whites, with Caiumbuca as their inter- 
preter, were conducted to a large court-yard, at one end of which was a sort of 
raised platform or dais, on which they were requested to seat themselves to 
receive the compliments of the court. 

In a little while four of the king's councillors, headed by a dignitary named 
Gambella, who, Caiumbuca informed the professor, was the president of the 
king's councillors, arrived and seated themselves before the strangers. Tiien 
began on both sides a series of compliments and many protestations of friend- 
ship, w^ith expressions of welcome on the part of the dignitaries. Gambella, a 
stern, resolute-looking man, with a cold, haughty manner, was profuse in his 
welcome, and, as Houston declared, "rather overdid the business." He in- 
formed the professor that the king would see and converse with him and his 
companions the next day, and that in the mean time they would be comfortably 
quartered in the town. The dignitaries then retired, and their places were 
taken by others, who went through the same ceremonies, giving place in turn 
to others still, until the whole court had welcomed the strangers. By this time 
it was dark, and our travellers were glad when the ceremonies came to an end, 
and they were permitted to withdraw to the houses assigned them. 

" Well, professor," asked Ashton, when they were alone, " are you satisfied 
with our reception here ?" 

"So far as it has gone we have nothing to complain of," replied Professor 
Moreton ; " but, to be frank with you, I am anxious for the future." 

" We can only wait and see what will happen," said Ashton. " We had 
210 



i/)i7;.v7'rA'/-;.s- i.\ vv//-; ui coi srin 



211 



best keep our jU'oplc toi^etlicr as well as possible, and \)v prepared fbi- any 
treachery." 

^' It' treaeherv comes," said Houston, "it will be tlirough that I'ellow (iani- 
bella. ]\rark my words, professor, in spite of his fine speeches he is not pleased 
to see us, and he may try to give us trouble." 

"You right. Master Hoosey," exclaimed Charlie. "Me no like him eye. 
He one bad mau. ^le watch him." 

"We shall know something of what is in store for us very soon, I suppose," 






LUINA HOUSES AND IIOES. 



said the professor. " We have an audience with the king to-morrow, and he 
will probably make known his intentions concerning us." 

" One thing struck me during the interview with the court to-day," said 
Philip Lee; "these j)eople take us for Englishmen." 

"I noticed it also," said the professor; "and I think it will be better to 
allow them to continue under this impression. They know of England and 
respect her, as she has large possessions on this continent. Besides, Dr. Liv- 
ingstone once visited these regions, and left a very favorable impression behind 
him. Our ow^n country is not known in this part of Africa, and we shall 
probably enjoy more consideration as Englishmen than as Americans." 

"After all," said Ashton, 'Sve can only wait and hear what the king has 
to say." 

The position of the professor and his companions was indeed one that 
demanded the greatest caution and tact upon their part. They were in the 
Upper Zambezi, in the large city of Lialui, the new capital, founded by King 



212 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Lobossi, of the kingdom of the Baroze, Lui, or Ungenge, ^' for by all these 
names is that vast empire of South Tropical Africa known to the world." 
The king, whom they were to meet on the morrow, was by far the most pow- 
erful sovereign they had yet encountered, and reigned over a vast portion of 
South Central Africa, having relations with both the Portuguese on the West 
Coast and the English at the Cape of Good Hope. It will be well, therefore, 
before proceeding further, to present to the reader a view of the kingdom and 
its people. This we do in the words of the latest explorer of this region : 

'^ We learn from the descriptions of David Livingstone," says Major Serpa 
Pinto, " that a warrior coming out of the South at the head of a powerful 
army, by name Chibitano, a Basuto by origin, crossed the Zambezi close to 





LUINA PIPES FOR SMOKING BANGUE. 



its confluence with the Cuando, and invaded the territories of the Upper Zam- 
bezi, subjecting to his sway the whole of the tribes who inhabited the vast 
tracts of country thus conquered. 

" Chibitano, the most remarkable captain who has ever existed in Central 
Africa, started from the banks of the Gariep with the nucleus of an army 
formed of Basutos and Betjuanos, to which he went on adding the young man- 
hood of the peoples he vanquished, and as he drew nearer to the North, he 
organized his new phalanxes till they became as terribly successful in the 
conquest of the Upper Zambezi as in the defence of the subjected countries. 
On this army, formed of different elements and of peoples of many races and 
origins, their commander bestowed the name of Cololos, hence the designation 
of Macololos, which became so well known throughout Africa. In the Upper 
Zambezi Chibitano met with many distinct peoples, governed by independent 
chiefs, who could not, separated as they were, oppose any serious resistance to 
the Basuto warrior's arms. 

" Chibitano turned out to be as wise a legislator, and as prudent an admin- 
istrator, as he was a redoubted warrior; and he succeeded in uniting the con- 



\i)VK.\'rrh'i:s i.\ riii-: lui country. 



2l;3 



quered tribes and causiiii:!; (Iumu to rc^-ard each otlici* as hi-clhrcn in one ('oiuinon 
interest. Tlio said tribes might be grouped in three great divisions, marking 
three distinet raees. In the South, below the region of the cataracts, were tlie 
Macahicas ; in tlie centre the Cangenjes or Barozes, and in tlie north the 




IROX IMPLEMENT USED AS A 11 ANDlvl^KCHIEP BY THE LUINAS. 



Luinas, a more vigorous and intelligent race than either of the other two, and 
which was destined in the course of time to take the place of the Macololos in 
the government of the country. The reins of government have been indeed 
centred in the country of the Baroze or Ungenge, since the time of Chicreto, 
the son and successor of Chibitano, and while all the tribes of the ^yest 
bestow upon the vast empire the name of Lui or Ungenge, those of the South 
distinguish it by the designation of Baroze. 

"The political organization of the kingdom of the Lui is very different to 
that of the other peoples of Africa. It possesses two distinct ministries, that 
of war and foreign affairs, the last being subdivided into two sections, each 
having a minister of its own. One of them has to do with AYestern, the 
other with Southern affairs, so that while the former 
deals with the Portuguese in Benguela, the latter has 
to treat with the English at the Cape." 

At the time of our travellers' visit Gambella was 
president of the king's council and was also minister 
of war and Southern foreign affairs, while the Western 
foreign affairs were managed by a minister named 
Montagja. 

'' The empire, so powerfully sustained by the iron 
hand, wisdom, prudence, and policy of Chibitano, be- 
gan visibly to decline under the reign of his son Chi- 
creto. Of the natives who came from the South with 
Chibitano, viz., the Macololos, few now remain, they 

having been decimated by the fevers proper to the country, which do not even 
spare the natives themselves. Drunkenness and the too free use of bangue, 
joined to the unruliness of the chiefs, little by little deprived the invaders of 
all their usurped authority. On the death of Chicreto, he was succeeded by 
his nephew Omborolo, who was to reign during the minority of Pepe, a 
younger brother of Chicreto and son of the great Chibitano. The Luinas 




LUINV MILK-POT. 



214 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

conspired, and Pepe was one day assassinated. Omborolo ere long shared the 
same fate, and the Luinas, having organized what amounted to another Saint 
Bartholomew's, slew without mercy the remnant of the former invading war- 
riors, of whom only a handful escaped, who, under the command of Siroque, 
a brother of Chicreto's mother, fled westward and crossed the Zambezi at 
ISTariere. The Luinas, after this sanguinary act, proclaimed their chief Chi- 
popa, a man of ability, who took measures to prevent any dismemberment of 
the country, and managed to keep the empire in the same powerful condition 
that it boasted in the time of Chibitano. Chipopa reigned many years, but 
treachery was soon at its old work, and in 1876 a certain Gambella caused him 
to be assassinated and proclaimed his nephew Manuanino, a youth of seven- 
teen, king in his stead. The first act of Manuanino's exercise of authority 
was to order Gambella, the man who had brought him to the throne, to be 
beheaded ; and, not content with this, he deposed from office all the relatives 
and friends of his father, who had assisted to procure him his dignity, and 
collected about him only his maternal kinsmen. The former conspired in turn, 
and made a revolution, with the object of assassinating him in March, 1878 ; 
but Manuanino, learning of his danger through some who were yet faithful 
to him, succeeded in escaping, and fled towards the Cuando, where he assailed 
and devastated the village of Mutambanja. 

" Lobossi, having been proclaimed king, despatched an army against him, 
and Manuanino had to retire from his new quarters, and repassing the Zam- 
bezi at Quisseque plunged into the country of the Chuculumbe, which he 
crossed and joined a band of whites (elephant-hunters), who were encamped on 
the borders of the Cafucue. Lobossi, apparently conscious that his own safety 
depended upon the death of Manuanino, sent a fresh army against him. 

^^ The Lui or Baroze, properly so called, — that is to say, the country lying 
to the north of the first region of the cataracts, — is composed of the enormous 
plain through which courses the river Zambezi, stretching from one hundred 
and eighty to two hundred miles from north to south, with a varying width 
of from thirty to thirty-five miles ; a plain raised to some three thousand three 
hundred feet above the sea-level, and rising still higher in the eastward, where 
numerous villages are seated whose plantations flourish in the open. It like- 
wise consists of the enormous valley of the Nhengo, through which runs the 
river Ninda. The Nhengo district is separated from the bed of the Zambezi 
by a ridge of land upwards of sixty feet in height, running parallel to the 
river, and in which^ many villages are situated that are out of reach of the 
greatest floods. During the rainy season the plain of Zambezi becomes inun- 
dated. The Luina people, who in great part reside in the plain, repair to the 
mountainous region during the inundations. On the retirement of the waters 
they return to reoccupy the villages abandoned during the inclement season, 



,i/)r/-;.v7'rA7;.s' i.\ rm: ui covsTny. 



215 





LUINA WAR-HATCHETS. 



niul cover tlic^ ('(Hiiitiy with llu'ir (■iioi-inoiis herds, whicli, to s:iv truth, do not 

find a V(My hixnriant pastunitj^e at any portion of fche year, as the meadows 

are for the most part formed of rnshes and canes. Cultivation is carried on 

more upon tlie rii^ht than on the left l)ank' of 

the Zambezi, and always near the rising' iri-ound. 

The inundation leaves upon the extensive plain 

an immense number of small lakes, which form 

the bcnls of aquatic vegetation, and become so 

many sources of miasma and swamp fevers, so 

that there are portions of the year when the 

aborigines themselves suffer greatly from zymotic 

diseases. The lakes abound in fish, and are the 

homes of multitudes of frogs. It is from these 

lakes, also, that the natives draw their supplies 

of drinking-water, but it is necessary to explain 

that they only drink it when converted into 

capata. 

"The Luinas are no great tillers of the land, but they are great rearers of 
cattle. Their Jierds constitute their chief wealth, and in the milk of their 
cows they find their principal nourishment. A Luina's property may be said 
to consist of cows and women. Few countries in Africa have carried further 
than the Luinas the practice of polygamy. 

" The basis of their food is milk, either fresh or curdled, and sw^et pota- 
toes. Maize flour is used to make capata, mixed with the flour of massamhala, 
the chief article of cidtivation in that country. 

" The people work in iron, and all their arms and tools are manufactured 
at home. They use no knives, and one cannot fail to admire their wood carv- 
ings. In the Lui they employ but two implements; the rough work is done 
by the hatchet and the fine by the assegai. The iron of the latter performs all 
wonders; the benches on which they sit, the porringers out of which they eat, 
the vessels that contain their milk, and all their other Avooden articles are 
wrought by its means. There is one utensil upon which generally the greatest 
care is bestowed, and that is the spoon. Living, as he does, u})on milk, the 
Luina cannot do without his spoon, but he dispenses with the knife. 

"Ceramic manufacture is limited in the Baroze to the making of ])ipkins 
for cooking purposes, pans for capata, large jars for the preservation of cereals, 
and moulds for the confectioning of pipes in which to smoke bangue (Indian 
hemp). The Luina smokes nothing but hangne. Tobacco is cultivated to 
a considerable extent, but it is used exclusively as snuff, and both men and 
women make great use of it in that shape. 

"The people are tolerably well covered. It is rare to see either an adult 



216 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS JN AFRICA. 



male or female naked from the waist upwards. The men wear skins fastened 
to a girdle, which hang behind and before, and reach as low as the knees. A 
fur mantle with a cape covers the shoulders, and falls to about the middle of 
the leg. A broad leathern belt, independent of that to which the skins are fas- 
tened, completes the attire. The women wear a petticoat of skins, reaching in 
front to the knee, and behind to the calf of the leg. They also have a broad 
girdle about the waist, adorned with cowries. A small fur mantle, a great 
many beads round the neck, and several bangles on the wrists and ankles form 
the usual costume of the country. It is no uncommon thing to see females 
substituting European stuifs for skins, and wearing cotton counterpanes for 
mantles. The women of the upper ranks, and generally the rich, grease their 









3 3 

LUINA EARTHENWARE. 

1. Kitchen jugs. 2. Jar for wheat. 3. Pipe-bowls. 



bodies over with beef-suet mixed with powdered lac, which gives the skin a 
vermilion lustre, and at the same time a disgusting smell. 

" Many of the Luinas possess percussion muskets of English manufacture, 
conveyed thffcher by the traders from the south, and others flint ones, made in 
Belgium, obtained from the Portuguese at Benguela. The natives prefer per- 
cussion guns, and there are even some who seek after rifles. They do not use 
cartridges, like the Bihenos and their immediate neighbors, but carry their 
powder loose in little horns or calabashes. The nrms of the country are asse- 
gais, clubs, and hatchets. Bows and arrows are not in use. By way of defen- 
sive arm they employ large oval-shaped shields of ox-hide over a wooden frame. 
-Every man carries, as a rule, from five to six assegais for throwing. The irons 
of these assegais, although not poisoned, are none the less very terrible weapons, 
owing to their being barbed in every direction, so that where they run into the 
bodyihere is no extracting them, save by the death of the wounded. 



\i)ij:.\Triii:s l\ in/: iji an srin 



17 



'^AU goods aro acceptable in the \a\\, llic best hciii^- picfcncd. 



I'-hth of an incii in dianulcr 
ets, percussion arms, 



is \:iluai)I(', an<l all 



linvss 

rcadv- 




nothing, passin 



upon 




taking 



made clothes, cove 

powder, lead in pigs, and articles ot" 
the chase are quoted at a high figure. 
Throughout the country trade is carried 
on exclusively with the king, who makes 
a monopoly of it; to him belongs all 
the ivory obtainable within his do- 
minions, as well as all the cattle of his 
subjects, from whom he obtains them 
whenever needed. He makes ])resents 
to his hunters, chiefs of villages, and 
courtiers of the goods, arms, and other 
articles which he obtains by barter. 

" Women enjoy within the terri- 
tory a good deal of consideration, and 
the nobler amoncr them do literally 
their lives seated 
mats, drinking capatay and _ _ 

snufF. They possess many \xis\ man. 

slaves, who are for the most i)art 
Macalacas, who wait upon them and attend to their wants." 

Such was the country, and such were the people, in which our travellers 
now found themselves. What would the morrow bring forth ? 

Early the next morning Professor ^loreton was informed that King 
Lobossi was ready to receive his v>-hite visitors. The travellers thereupon 
arrayed themselves in their best clothes, and repaired to the great square of 
the town, where the audience was to be held. 

They found the square full of people. King Lobossi was seated in a high- 
backed chair in the middle of the square, and behind him stood a negro 
shielding him from the rays of the sun with an umbrella. Our travellers 
were surprised to find the king so young a man. He was about twenty years 
old, very tall, and proportionately stout. He was better dressed than auv 
African sovereign the })arty had yet encountered. He wore a colored shirt, 
over which was thrown a cashmere mantle, and around his neck were several 
amulets in place of a cravat. His tiousers were also of cashmere, and his 
feet were encased in a ])air of clean white stockings and neatly polished low- 
quarter shoes. He held in his hand a curiously carved wooden stick into 
which were stuck bunches of horse-hair. This he waved to and fro with great 
gra.vity during the interview, to keep off the flies. 



218 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



Gambella was seated in a lower chair on the king's right, and the three 
councillors were on the opposite side. Back of the monarch stood fifty armed 
warriors, who remained as motionless as statues during the interview. About 
one thousand of the native nobility squatted on the ground in a semicircle, 
displaying their rank by the distance at which they were placed from the king. 

As the professor and 
his companions approached, 
the king rose, and his ex- 
ample was followed by the 
councillors, and then by 
the nobles. A pressure of 
the hand was exchanged 
by each of the travellers 
with King Lobossi and 
Gambella, but to Matagja 
and the other councillors 
they simply bowed. The 
king and his people then 
resumed their seats, and 
the whites were requested 
to seat themselves on the 
ground near the monarch 
and Gambella. Caium- 
buca, who had accompanied 
the party as interpreter, was 
given a seat by the pro- 
fessor. 

The interview opened 
with an exchange of com- 
pliments which would not have shamed an European court. The king ex- 
pressed his great satisfaction at seeing so many white men in his country, and 
hoped they w^ould find their visit pleasant. Professor Moreton then told him 
that he and his companions were not merchants, but were children of the great 
white king whose country lay far beyond the sea. They were on their way to 
join the whites on the Indian Ocean, and in order to do so had to pass through 
his majesty's dominions. They felt themselves honored by being permitted to 
see and converse with so powerful a monarch, and hoped he would prove their 
good friend, and help them on their journey. 

Lobossi replied that he knew and understood that thie white strangers were 
not traders, and that the reception he had given them on the previous evening 
ought to convince them of this. He added that the strangers were his guests, 




KING LOBOSSI. 



ADVENTURES IX Till: HI CiXWrjiV. 9,(, 

and that, as 1„> 1h>ium1 tlu-y would nMnaii, soin(> (imc at his court, tl.cv u<.uld 
have phMity oi" tinio to talk about allairs. Son., n.o.v convcrsatiou iu a" sin. liar 
strain lollouvd, and thou the intcrviow canio to an end. 

Upon returnino- to their quarters our travellers found th(> court-vard occu- 
pied by thirty oxen, whieli the kin.ir had sent them as a present. Caiund)nea 
mtornied the professor tliat altiiougli the oxen were nonn'uallv for the soh.> use 
of the party, the proper thing to do was to cause them all to be shiu<rhtered at 
onee, to send the best leg of beef to the kino, and distribute the rem^iinder of 
the Hesh between tlie courtiers and the men of the expedition. Tlie professor 
tlierefore, gave orders to Charlie to have the animals shiuglitercd. WJien this 
was done, a choice quarter of beef was despatched to the king witli the profes- 
sor's compliments, and others to Gambella and the three councillors. The rest 
was divided into two parts, one of which was retained for the use of the expe- 
dition, and the other distributed among the courtiers. The hides of the ani- 
mals, which are highly valued by the Luinas, were presented bv the professor 
to Gambella and Matagja. 

In the afternoon the king sent a message to the professor that he would 
ike to converse with him again, and that gentleman, taking Caiumbuca with 
inm as interpreter, repaired to the 
royal residence. The house in which 
the monarch received liim was semi- 
cylindrical in shape and of large di- 
mensions, being about sixty feet long 
by twenty-five wide, and correspond- 
inorlv hioh. 

The king was seated near the centre 
on a stool, and opposite him, on a 
bench, were the four councillors. Sev- 
eral of the higher nobles of the court 
were present, and among them was 
an old man, with white hair and 
beard, and tall and vigorous frame, 
who frequently regarded the i)rofessor 
with glances of kindly interest. 

A large pot of quimbombo was 
placed in the middle of the room, and 
from it the king and his attendants 

drank copiously. The professor was asked to take his share, but replied that 
he drank only water. 

The king opened the conversation by asking the professor how large his 
country was, and was astonished at the reply. He then asked the'' pro- 




GAMBELLA. 






*i 



220 ^^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

fessor to repeat something in English, that he might hear how it sounded. 
Professor Moreton repeated one of Hamlet's soliloquies, which so pleased the 
monarch that he declared that English sounded like music, and was very sweet 
to his ears. The conversation which followed was unimportant, and the pro- 
fessor perceived that the time liad not yet come to lay his plans before the 
king. The interview soon came to an end, and the professor was dismissed 
with many words of friendship from King Lobossi. One thing impressed him 
unfavorably, however. During the whole audience Garab'ella preserved an 
unbroken silence, though he did not cease to regard the professor with cold 
and sometimes unfriendly glances. 

When the party had collected in their hut after nightfall, Charlie suddenly 
turned to Professor Moreton and asked, — 

^'Master 'Fessor, why you take Caiumbuca.to talk for you?" 

^' Caiumbuca understands what the king and his people say, and I do not," 
replied the professor. ^' He can tell me what they say." 

"You trust Caiumbuca?" asked Charlie, after a pause, during which he 
appeared to be thinking earnestly. 

"I have no reason to distrust him," replied Professor Moreton. 

"Me no trnst him/' said Charlie, energetically. "Caiumbuca one bad 
nigger, Master 'Fessor. He talk too much with Gambella when you no see 
him. Me see him talk. Bimeby Gambella buy him, and he sell us all." 

"Then we shall be in a sad plight," said Ashton. "He is the only one 
among us who speaks the language of this country." 

Charlie burst out into a hearty laugh, which greatly surprised his hearers. 
Then turning to Ashton, he said, quietly, — 

"No, no, Master Ashton, Charlie talk Luina tongue like Caiumbuca. 
Lobossi and Gambella talk to you in Sesuto. That Macololo tongue, — only 
used by the king and the nobles. Common niggers here talk Luina tongue. 
Me talk both." 

" How did you learn them?" asked Ashton, quickly. 

" Me been in Luina country before," replied Charlie, smiling. "Not this 
place, — another part. Stay there long time, and learn very quick." 

"Then you shall be our interpreter, Charlie," said Professor Moreton. 
" You shall talk to the king for us." 

" No, no. Master 'Fessor," said Charlie, laughing. " That spoil all. They 
not know Charlie understand them. Me tell you what to do. You take 
Charlie with you when you go see Lobossi. Me no talk ; me listen, and tell 
you if Caiumbuca talk all right what you say to Lobossi." 

" That's an excellent suggestion, professor," said Ashton. " Charlie is 
faithful to us, we know ; and he will act as a check upon Caiumbuca should 
he meditate treachery against us." 



i/)i7;.v77'A'/;\ i.\ I hi: hi coiwrin-. 



221 



After sonuMlisi'Ussioii it was aL^rccd to adoj)! ( 'liarlif's suj^L^cstioii, and llic 
faithful black, encouraged by his success, now turned to the professor and asked, — 

" Me tell you 'iiother thing, Master 'Fessor. You think you safe here?" 

*' The king seems very friendly to us now," replied Professor Aforeton. 
"I don't think ^ve arc in any danger just now." 

"No danger now," said Charlie, earnestly. " Lobossi like you now. 
Gambella no like you. Bimeby he turn Lobossi agai!)st you. Maybe you 
have to fight. What chance you got here, Master 'Fessor?" 

"None in this town," replied the professor. "We are at their mercy. 
What do you advise, Charlie?" 

"Me tell you," said Charlie. "Next time you see Lobossi, you tell him 
you want to build camp where you can keep your niggers together. He ask 
Gambella. Gambella glad to get you out 
the town. He no want you too near 
Lobossi. He tell Lobossi to say ^yes.' 
Then, Master 'Fessor, you build strong 
camp in the woods. You have to fight, 
you got good camp, and not shut up here." 

"Charlie's advice is good," said Ash- 
ton, emphatically. " We must not lose a 
moment in acting upon it." 

The professor was of the same con- 
viction, and it was determined that at the 
next interview they ^vould ask permission 
to build a camp in the vicinity of the 
town. 

On the morning of the 5th of August 
our travellers received a visit from the 
old man whom the professor had noticed 
at the audience of the previous afternoon. 

He proved to be Machauana, the former companion of Dr. Livingstone in the 
journey which the great explorer made from the Zambezi to Loanda, and who 
is mentioned so highly by the doctor in his journals. He had conceived a 
warm friendship for Livingstone, and now desired to extend it to those whom 
he supposed to be the countrymen of his friend. He spoke a little English 
and a little Portuguese, and by means of these was enabled to carry on a long 
conversation with the professor about his former companion. He was greatly 
distressed to hear of Dr. Livingstone's death, and declared he was the best 
man he had ever known, and that, for his sake, he would always love the 
English. As he was leaving he told the professor he would be his friend with 
the king. 




222 ^U^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

"But," he added, "beware of Gambella. He is the true king here, and 
he does not like you. Watch him/' 

In the afternoon Professor Moreton received a message from the king, 
through a confidential slave, that he woukl like to see him at his house that 
night. At nine o'clock the professor set out for the royal residence, taking 
with him Caiumbuca, as usual, and also Charlie, who carried a present 
intended for the king. This consisted of the second-hand uniform of a Parisian 
gendarme, and had been purchased in Paris by the professor for a mere trifle. 
It included the white cotton epaulets and the cocked hat with its tall tri- 
colored plume, and was altogether the handsomest costume our travellers had 
brought with them. They had reserved it for some negotiation of more than 
usual importance, and now, as so much depended upon King Lobossi's good 
will, they felt that the time had come to make use of it. 

Professor Moreton found the king in one of the inner houses of his quarter, 
seated upon a stool near a large fire, burning in an open brazier. Behind him 
ranged in a semicircle were twenty stalwart men, armed with assegais and 
shields, who stood silent and motionless during the conference. The king 
greeted the professor cordially, and in a few minutes Gambella came in, and 
the conference began. 

The professor opened the interview by saying that he had brought with 
him a present, which he hoped his majesty would do him the honor to accept. 
He then commanded Charlie to display the uniform, at the sight of which 
Lobossi broke into child-like exclamations of delight. He insisted upon array- 
ing himself in it at once, in spite of Gambella's objections, and, when he had 
gratified his desire, walked several times around the hut with a martial stride; 
then, seating himself on the stool once more, he began to talk of business. He 
told the professor that it had been a long time since any of the Benguela traders 
had visited his country, and that he was anxious to have more come. He also 
desired to open a trade with the English at the Cape, as he wished to obtain 
arms and powder from them. Just now, he said, he was almost out of powder, 
and in great need of it, as he was carrying on a war with some of his subjects, 
who had rebelled against him. 

" If I let you go on to the white men at the sea, will you send me guns 
and powder when you get there?" he asked. 

The professor replied that, as he was not a trader, he could make no posi- 
tive promise, but that as soon as he reached the white men he would tell 
them of the profitable trade that might be built up with the king, and added 
that his majesty might feel sure that when the white traders felt that they 
could enter his dominions with safety and profit they would be very quick to 
come. 

This appeared to please the king; but Gambella, who was really an able 



,i/)rA\v77'A'/;.s' i.\ Tin: lii corxrin 



22:] 



man, endeavored to entrap the professor into replies llial nii^lit l»e \\<r(\ to his 
disa(lvanta»;e. Trolessor Moreton at once deteeted tlio craCty minister's (»l)jeet, 
howover, and balHed liini so completely that he ceased his questions. 

The professor then stated the plan of his })arty. He said they had origi- 
nally intended to descend the Liambai, or U])per Zambezi, to the great falls, 
and from that jmint make their way along the river by boat and on foot to tlu^ 
Zund)0, from which tliey could descend the stream to its mouth. Now, how- 
ever, a new plan had presented itself, which was to march across the count rv 
from Lialui to Cainco. situated on an island in the Loengue, which river runs 
into the Zambezi below the Cariba rapids. From that })oint they could descend 
the Zambezi in boats to the Zumbo. To do this, however, they would have to 
ask the kir^g to furnish them with men. He assured the king that it would 
be of infinite advantage for him to thus show that the Zumbo route was free 
to white traders, because, as soon as the fact was known, th.e Portuguese traders 




WOODEX PLATTERS OF THE LLIXAS. 



on the Lower Zambezi w^ould eagerly embrace the opportunity to bring the 
articles he needed into his country. He himself would urge them to bring 
the arms and powder the king was so anxious to obtain. 

Lobossi replied that he would think of the matter. In the mean time he 
was more than ever the friend of his white visitors, since they had given him 
such a magnificent present. 

The professor then presented his request to be permitted to construct a 
camp near the towni. Garabella at once urged the king to consent. He added 
that it would be the wisest course for all, as the whites would then be better 
able to control their men than in the town. The royal assent was given, and 
the interview came to an end. 

When they returned to their own quarters Charlie told the professor that 
Caiumbuca had interpreted the interview correctly, but had omitted one of 



224 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

Gambella's remarks to the king in support of their request to be allowed to 
build a camp. That astute statesD an had advised the monarch that it would 
be much easier to deal with the whites wlien out of the town, as their ceasing to 
be his guests would relieve him of the obligations of hospitality, and leave him 
free in his dealings with them. These words sounded ominous to the party. 

The next morning the professor arose quite ill, and it was evident that he 
was about to be taken with another attack of fever. He could not think of . 
giving up, however. There was so much to do that required his personal 
attention, the future of the expedition was so uncertain, that he must keep on 
his feet as long as possible. 

The day was the 6th of August, 1879, the anhi -ary of their landing at 
St. Paul de Loanda. One year before they had ent^ 1 Africa full of hope 
and confidence. They had surmounted difficulties of he gravest nature, had 

carried their expedition almost to the 

AX centre of the continent, and now they 

V^ were no longer masters of their own 

^^k movements. They were really p'risoners 

'^^: =..^^.-.-\ ^^^y4^)^^^^ ^==^hW^m ffWf^n depe:,dent upon the caprice of a savage 

AvooDEN spooxv OF THE LuiNAs. ^ iOuarch aud hls unscrupulous minister. 

jN'othiug but courage and indomitable 
resolution could extricate them fr:m their difficult position. 

Early in the morning a larf e detachment of the carriers of the expedition 
was despatched under the com aand of Houston and Philip Lee to construct 
an encampment at a spot selected by the professor, about, half a mile to the 
south of Lialui. They h^.d orders to make it as strong as the means at their 
command would perm'l^, and to hasten the work as much as possible. 

Later in the dp}, in spite of the languor caused by his fever, the professor, 
with Ashton, Hubbard, and Charlie, went to call on the king, accompanied by 
Caiumbuca. They found him in one of the circular houses, surrounded by 
people, with six enormous pans of capata set before him, from which all were 
drinking. The king was very merry, and the whole court about half drunk. 
Caiumbuca was soon in the same condition, and as it had been agreed not to 
betray Charlie's knowledge of the language, the professor and his party, being 
thus left without an interpreter, withdrew. 

On the morning of the 7th of August the professor was summoned by 
King Lobossi to appear before his great council to explain his plan to them. 
Though much worse from the fever, he set out at ten o'clock with his two com- 
panions and Charlie. Caiumbuca was charged to remain sober until the close 
of the interview. 

They were received kindly by Lobossi, who, however, left the conduct of 
the proceedings to Gambella. The latter exerted all his arts to conlase the 



1 



ADVENTURES IN THE LUI COUNTRY. 225 

professor, hut witliout success. Takinu:; a stick, Piolcssor Morcton traced upon 
tlie grouiul tlie course of the Zambezi, aiul to tlie east, runuiu<r parallel to it, 
the course of the Loengue, which, uiuler tlie iiaine of the Cai'ucuc, ilows into 
the Zambezi below the Cariba rapids. lie then mai'ked the position of the 
viUage of Cainco on the Loengue, and showed that in fifteen (hiys his party 
could reach that place, from which they could descend the Loengue to the 
Zambezi in boats, and pass down the latter river in the same way to the Zumbo. 
He declared that there were no cataracts in the Loengue, and that the Zambezi 
was perfectly navigable from Cariba to the Zumbo. 

Tlie king and the cour.cil w^ere greatly astonished by the professor's knowl- 
edge of their country (d Gambella, who knew the wdiite man had spoken 
truly, was silenced. i^fter much discussion it was resolved to allow the white 
travellers sufficient ,jien to make the journey, and several of the members of 
the council declared-they had long wished to see a trade opened with the whites 
on the Lower Zambezi. The council broke u{) amid great enthusiasm, and 
the king declared J'iiat the men who were to compose the expedition should be 
selected the next day. 

The professor and his companions then returned to their quarters, and 
during: the nio^ht the fever of the former increased to such an extent that he 
became delirious, causing grave anxiety to Ashton and Hubbard, who watched 
by him. The next morning he was better, but so weak that he had to keep 
his bed. 

During the day Lobossi, who had heard of the professor's illness, came to 
see him, and brought with him his confidential doctor. The latter was a small, 
thin old nun, with very white hair and beard, and a shrewd, cunning face. 
At the request of the king. Professor Moreton consented to allow the old man 
to determine what was the matter with him. 

The doctor thereupon drew from his breast a string that was run through 
eight halves of the stones of some fruit, and solemnly pronouncing certain 
cabalistic words, threw the string upon the ground. Some of the stones fell 
with the inner side upward, and some the reverse. The doctor gravely ex- 
amined the positions in which they had fallen, and then, turning to the pro- 
fessor, declared that he was possessed by the spirits of his deceased relatives, 
and that it was necessary for him to give the doctor something that he might 
charm them away. The professor pretended to believe all the doctor said, and 
dismissed him with a small present of gunpowder. 

In the afternoon Houston and the carriers came in to say that the camp 
was in readiness. Preparations for a move were immediately begun, and by 
nightfall our travellers were comfortably established in the camp. All felt 
better satisfied and much freer than in the city of Lialui. Their quarters ^vere 
cleaner and more to their taste, and they felt that if necessity should compel 

15 




226 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

them to defend themselves they had here a better opportunity than in the 
crowded city. 

The first act of Professor Moreton, after reaching the camp, was to turn 

over the command of the expedition to 
Ashton. He was himself too ill to un- 
dertake further negotiations with the king 
or Gambella, and the young man had so 
thoroughly proved his good sense and 
courage that he felt no hesitation in re- 
LuiNA HATCHET. - liuquishing the command to him until he 

himself should be fit to resume it. 
The next morning a considerable commotion was heard in the city, and 
Caiumbuca was sent to learn its meaning. There was an incessant beating of 
drums, accompanied by repeated musket-shots, sometimes singly and sometimes 
in volleys, and the greatest excitement seemed to be prevailing in Lialui. In 
a couple of hours Caiumbuca returned with an explanation of the extraordinary 
hubbub. News had just been received by the king of the defeat of his forces 
by the rebels in the Chuculumbe country. The latter had been aided by a 
band of white elephant-hunters from the eastern side of the continent, — Portu- 
guese from the East Coast, Caiumbuca said, — and he added that these Por- 
tuguese were of a different race from those on the West Coast. 

" It is fortunate for you,'' he said, ^' that you are not of the same race as 
these people ; if you were, your lives would not be worth a day's purchase." 

These words more than ever decided our travellers to adhere to the char- 
acter of Englishmen with which the Luinas had invested them, and they also 
increased their anxiety for the future. 

Caiumbuca reported the city in great excitement. The warriors had been 
called out by the war-drums, and messengers had been despatched to different 
parts of the kingdom to summon the royal forces. 

The next morning our travellers were surprised to receive a visit from 
Gambella. He was entertained by Ashton, who informed him that during the 
sickness of the professor he would receive all communications from the king. 
Gambella then delivered a message from Lobossi, explaining the cause of the 
war, and the king's determination to prosecute it with vigor. He added that, 
as the scene of hostilities would be the Chuculumbe country, through which 
the party proposed to travel, the journey to Cainco would be impossible; there- 
fore everything that had been agreed upon between the king and Professor 
Moreton must be considered as broken off. This was a sharp disappointment to 
the young man, but he concealed his feelings, and told Gambella that he hoped 
to make some other arrangement with the king that would be equally satis- 
factory. Gambella replied in a few polite phrases and then took his departure.' 



Ai)\'i:.\TL'Jii:s i\ Tin-: ui corxrjn'. 227 

111 tlic aCtiTiiooii Aslifon was iiilnrmcd that three of the Uiheiio poinbeini.s 
wished to speak witli him. Upon niakiiiu; their appearance tliey tohl him that, 
not likino' the condition of atlairs in tlic conntrv, ihvy iiad conchidcd to r(;tnrii 
home, and were anxions t(^ do so at ono(». In vain Ashton nr<i;ed them to 
remain with tlie expedition awhile longer, and told them it wonld be cowardly 
to abandon it then. Thev were firm ; they wished to (k part at once, — that very 
afternoon, indeed. 

Seeing that he conid not move them, the yonng man songht the other pom- 
beiros and asked their intentions. They replied that neither they nor their 
men were afraid, and w^ould stand by the i)arty. Cahimbnca and the five 
armed Benguela men also assured him of their fidelity to him, and soundly 
berated the Bihenos who w^ished to depart as cowards, and men wlio wx're acting 
in bad faith. 

Thus reassured, Ashton caused the three })ombeiros to surrender the arms 
and ammunition tliat had been issued to them and their men. This they did 
rehictantly, and only when Ashton had declared that without such a surrender 
he would not pay them the w^ages due them. The guns and powder were then 
delivered, and the pombeiros received the wages agreed upon for themselves 
and their men. Ashton then bade them leave the camp at once, and threatened 
them with severe punishment if any of them were found in it again. Yet it 
was not without a sad and foreboding heart that he watched the ninety-three 
men file out of the enclosure and take their way towards Lialui. This deser- 
tion left him with two pombeiros, sixty carriers, the five armed Benguela men, 
Charlie, Morabee, and Caiumbuca, making in all seventy blacks. 

The next day, August 1 1, Lobossi paid a visit to the camp. Professor 
Moreton was too unwell to see him, and Ashton did the honors of the occasion. 
The king assured Ashton that the journey to the Chuculnmbe was impossible, 
but told him that he would furnish the party with guides and a few people as 
far as the Zumbo, by way of the Zambezi. He then began to beg for various 
things, many of which were not in possession of the whites, and seemed like a 
spoiled child when told he could not have them. Ashton took occasion to 
question the king about a rumor he had heard that morning that Lo Benguela, 
the powerful monarch of the Matebelis, with whom Lobossi had been on bad 
terms for some time, was about to attack the Lui. This abrupt question 
seemed to disconcert the king, and he answered hastily that the rumor was 
false ; that there was peace with the Matebelis, and he could easily crush the 
rebels with the forces he was raising. 

The king then began to complain of the few^ presents his white visitors had 
given him, and ended bv savins^ that as he w^as o:oino^ to w^ar thev ought to let 
him have all their arms and gunpowder. He would guarantee their safety to 
the Zumbo, and as long as they were under his protection they would not need 



228 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



their weapons. Ashton told him that on the day of the departnre of the expe- 
dition for the Zumbo he would give him a dozen guns and two kegs of gun- 
powder, but that under no circumstances would 
another gun or an ounce of powder belonging 
to the expedition be given to him. The king 
was displeased at this answer, and left the 
camp in a bad humor. 

The next morning the party were surprised 
by a visit from one of the principal nobles of 
the kingdom, who brought an order from the 
king, commanding the whites and their fol- 
lowers to quit the country and go back to the 
Bih^. Ashton quietly told him to say to the 
king that he was committing a most unwise 
act, for if the white men were forced to return 
to the Bih6 and Benguela tliey would prevent 
any more Bihe caravans from trading with the 
Lui. He also charged Caiumbuca to go with 
the messenger and repeat to the king what he 
had said. Later in the day Caiumbuca re- 
turned with a fresh order from the king to 
^ quit the country at once and take the road to 
the Bih6. 




LUINA WOMAN. 



On the morning of the 13th, Gambella 
himself made his appearance at the camp, fully armed, and, contrary to the 
custom of the country, did not lay aside his weapons upon entering the hut 
where Ashton received him. The only notice the young man took of this 
discourtesy was to remove his revolver from its case and place it in the front 
of his belt, where he could lay his hands on it at a moment's warning. 

" I bring you the king's orders," said Gambella, shortly, " to quit the 
country at once. You will not go there, nor there, nor there," he added, 
sternly, pointing successively to the north, east, and south, "but will go back 
to the Bih6 and Benguela. Refuse, and we will drive you away." 

" Friend Gambella," said Ashton, coolly, looking the savage firmly in the 
eye, " go and tell Lobossi, or accept the message for yourself, that we will not 
move a step from here in the direction of the Bih§. It is true you have a 
numerous army, but you have no powder. My men are well armed. If we 
are attacked, we shall know how to defend ourselves. If we fall, the white 
king will call Lobossi to account for our death, for he loves us too well to 
allow us to die unavenged. You already have a civil war on your hands, and 
you are threatened by the Matebelis. Now let Lobossi provoke a war with 



ADVENTURES IX THE LIJI COUNTRY. 229 

the wlilti' king, and lie is lost. You \\\\\v niv answer. We leav(! here only for 
the Lower Zambezi." 

Ganibella made no reply to this speeeh, which was uttered with an assur- 
ance Ashton was far from feeling, but, turning on his heel, left the camp in a 
towerino: rao;e. 

The day was passed by our travellers in great anxiety, but nothing more 
was heard from the king. Professor Moreton, roused by the events occurring 
around him, was improving, but was still too weak to tiUvc an active })art in 
them. 

Towards nine o'clock at night Machauana came secretly to the camp, and 
told Ashton that Gambella, at a council held that day, had strongly advised 
Lobossi to have the white men put to death, but that the king had firmly re- 
fused to take such a step. He urged him to be on his guard, and promised to 
warn him if any unfriendly action were resolved upon. He added that he 
had great influence with the king, and would use it in behalf of his white 
friends. 

The next day King Lobossi came to the camp unattended. He informed 
Ashton that he had changed his mind, and that all roads were open to the ex- 
pedition. He would provide them with guides to the Quisseque, if the party 
decided to descend the Liambai, but, as he was going to war, could furnish no 
forces, and would not be responsible for anything that might happen. Ashton 
thanked him for his offer, and said the expedition would guarantee its own 
safety. The king then departed, and the young man subsequently learned 
that this new decision was due to the advice of Machauana, who had convinced 
him of the impropriety of compelling the wdiites to leave his dominions against 
their will. Machauana, they learned, was really more influential among the 
people than Gambella, though the latter was more in the confidence of the 
king. Between the two there was a bitter rivalry, and only the great popu- 
larity of Machauana saved him from the vengeance of the powerful minister. 

On the 15th nothing further was heard from the city, and the day and 
night wore anxiously away. Late the next afternoon Ashton received a secret 
visit from Machauana, who told them that 
the question of putting them to death had 
again been raised in council by Gambella, 
but that Lobossi still refused to take such a 
step against those who had trusted to his luina war-club. 

hospitality. The old man said that he him- 
self had warmly opposed the proposition, and had even threatened Gambella 
with the vengeance of the Luina race if he dared to violate the most sacred 
obligation of the nation, — that of hospitality. For the present his friends were 
safe, but they must be on their guard. 




230 ^^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

Soon after darkness had fallen^ Ashton left the camp, and strolled slowly 
towards the city. He was anxious and oppressed, and was trying to see some 
way out of the troubles that surrounded him. Suddenly he was aroused from 
his reverie by a sharp whiz, as an assegai, hurled by some unseen hand, glanced 
by his left arm. Drawing his revolver and looking around him he saw, in 
the uncertain ligbt, a tall negro preparing for a second throw. Quick as 
thought he raised his revolver and fired. A howl of pain from the black 
answered him, and the negro fell to the ground. Approaching him with 
caution, Ashton saw that he had thrown away his weapons. Placing his 
revolver at the negro's head, he compelled him to rise, and keeping him well 
covered with the pistol, drove him before him into camp. A hasty examina- 
tion showed that the fellow had received a severe flesh wound in the right 
arm, but one not necessarily dangerous. 

The man's wound was dressed, and then Ashton, summoning Caiumbuca, 
bade him accompany him to the king, taking with him also Houston and 
Charlie. Upon reaching the city they found Lobossi conversing with. Gambella 
in one of the inner houses. 

Ashton and his companions entered abruptly into the king's presence, 
pushing the would-be assassin before them. Leading the fellow before the 
king, Ashton demanded to know who and what he was. At the same moment 
the young man detected a hurried exchange of glances between the man and 
Gambella, which at once revealed to him the true author of the crime. 
Lobossi was horror-stricken at the sight of the blood on Ashton's hands, which 
the latter, in his haste to see the king, had forgotten to remove, and declared 
that he was in total ignorance of the attempt. The man he said was not one of 
his people. Clapping his hands to summon assistance, he ordered the negro to 
be removed, and requested Ashton to give him a minute account of what had 
occurred. Lobossi's indignation at the attempt on the young man's life was un- 
feigned, and he declared the wretch should suffer a terrible punishment. He 
said he should get but little sleep that night for thinking of the horrible affixir, 
and begged Ashton to keep the matter quiet, assuring him that nothing of the 
kind should happen again while his white friends remained in his dominions. 

Gambella was loud in his denunciations of the attempted assassination, and 
warmly applauded what Ashton had done. He said he only regretted that the 
negro had not been killed outright, and declared that he should pay dearly for 
his crime. Ashton, though firmly convinced that Gambella was the instigator 
of the attempt upon his life, thought it best to accept his protestations of friend- 
ship. A few more words passed, in which Lobossi repeated his promises of 
protection, and then Ashton and his companions returned to camp. 

Ashton had scarcely risen the next morning when Charlie presented him- 
self before him, and drawling him aside, said to him in a low voice, — 



ADVENTURES LX THE Lll COUNTRY. 231 

" Milv^^tcM" Asliton, me ri<;h( 'hoiil ( aiinuhuca. He l)a(l iiiLj:,n:^^r, ;m<l want, 
to sell lis all to ( Jaiiibclla. Last nielli wlicii you sec Lohossi and ( Jaiiihclla, 
ine hear (iaiuhclla tell Caiiinibiit'a to meet him near the city. \\'h('M Caiiim- 
hiiea come back to canij) with us, he slip away aud t^o see Gamhella. Me 
I'ollow, and lu^ar what they say. Gamhella sav uoiu; of us uuderstaud the Lui 
laiiii'uaoe, aud we not know what Caiumbuea say to Lohossi for you. When 
you talk one thino; to the kino- (Jambella tell Caiumbuea to say another that 
make Lobossi mad. Then he iiave you killed. Got to be cautious now, 
Master Ashton; got to watch every word and trust nobody." 

'' Well, Charlie/^ said Ashton, "it seems that we can trust no one but our- 
selves. You will continue to go with me when I see Lobossi; and as you 
understand the Lui tongue, you can warn me if Caiumbuea attempts to play 
us false. Then you must speak out plainly, and tell Lobossi the truth. '^ 

" Me do that," said Charlie. " Time to talk Lui then." 

"To tell vou the truth, Charlie," said Ashton, "I am more afraid of an 



g!SBS> 



LUINA ASSEGAIS. 



attack on our camp than anything else. If they attack us they will certainly 
try to set fire to the camp. Do you think we can trust the men ?" 

"Oh, yes," replied Charlie; "they will fight if attacked, because it will be 
for their lives." 

"Yet if the camp is burned all our goods will go with it," said Ashton, 
speaking despondently for the first time. 

"Look here, Master Ashton," said Charlie, "you got big camp; heap open 
o;round in middle. You build house rio;ht in the middle, and cover it with 
green boughs, and throw earth over it, to keep fire away. You do it to-day. 
Master Ashton, and then you put guns and powder and stores in there, and 
when fire comes they in safest place." 

"Your advice is good, Charlie," said Ashton; "I wonder we never thought 
of it before. The house shall be built to-day." 

Early in the morning Gamhella came over to the camp. He was in the 
friendliest mood, and said he had come to assure himself of his friends' safety, 
as he had not been able to sleep on the previous night for thinking of the das- 
tardly attack on Ashton. Though his manner was friendly and his words 



232 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

pleasant, the young man could not help regarding his visit as a new evidence 
of danger. 

^^ He has come/' said Houston to Ashton, " to spy out our camp and detect 
its weak points. Suppose we seize him and hold him as a hostage for our 
safety?" 

" No," replied Ashton ; " we must not be the aggressors in anything. So 
far Lobossi is not hostile to us, though at heart he may not be our friend. To 
seize Gambella would convert the king into an open enemy and increase our 
difficulties." 

" You are right, I suppose," said the young Californian, with a sigh ; " but 
it seems too good a chance to be missed." 

Gambella soon took his departure, and after he had gone Ashton com- 
menced the construction of the store-house. It was finished by sunset, and the 
goods, powder, and spare arms of the party were placed in it. It was resolved 
that one of the young men or Charlie should stand guard over it every night. 
Lots were drawn, and the first night's watch fell to Charlie. 

The night passed away peacefully, and the morning of the 18th of August 
dawned. Professor Moreton was now sufficiently recovered to leave his hut, 
and passed the day in making scientific observations. No word was received 
from the king; but during the afternoon Gambella sent in a present of ten 
loads of maize and massambala, with a friendly message. Just before sunset 
Ashton sent Caiumbuca to the king to say that they were now ready to depart 
as soon as he would furnish them with guides. Caiumbuca hurried off, but, 
as the hours passed on,/" ad to return, nor did our travellers see him again 
for several days. . . i 

It was Ashton'sV .. j -o guard the storehouse that night. All day he had 
been oppressed by a\. ig that danger was close at hand. He tried to resist 
it, but could not shaK,' it off. The silence of the king, and even the unex- 
pected present from Gambella, served to deepen his forebodings. The absence 
of Caiumbuca also appeared conclusive proof of treachery. He communicated 
his fears to his companions, but the professor declared his faith in Lobossi's 
good intentions, and pnly Houston shared Ashton 's fears of immediate danger. 

^' You may be right and I wrong, sir," said Ashton to the professor; "but 
I cannot resist the feeling that we are threatened with great danger. I shall 
expect all of you to remaxii in this hut all night, armed and provided with 
ammunition, and ready to answer my slightest call. I shall prepare the blacks 
in the same way, and have Charlit keep watch over them." 

These preparations were accordingly made, and by nightfall the camp was 
quiet, but in readiness for an attack, 

The day had been warm and trying, but after dark a strong and pleasant 
easterly wind had sprung up. Ashton, seated on a bench by the storehouse, 



Ai)\i:.\Tr/ii:s i\ r/ir: ui corsTiiV. ^3,3 

with his rifli^ rcstiiiLi; uij^aiiist liis kiicc, was ciijoyiiii;- the; vxhA hrcczc, and talking 
with Charlie^, who was pirpariiii;' to make a new roiiiul anionic the blacks. It 
was ten oVkK'k, and tl»c camp was entirely silent. Not a sound came from tiie 
neighboring city, and Ashton began for the first time to hope that liis fears 
were groundless. 

Suddenly his quick eye caught the gleam of a light moving stealthily about 
beyond the encampment. This was followed by another, and another yet, until 
at least forty or fifty were seen glimmering beyond the enclosure. The mean- 
ing of this singular spectacle was at once plain to the young commander. His 
worst fears were about to l)e confirmed; the Luinas were about to attack a)i(l 
burn the camp. 

'^ Charlie," he said, quietly, "go at once and bring up the blacks to the 
storehouse. Try to keep them as quiet as you can. We can't save the camp, 
but we must defend the storehouse." 

Charlie was oti* at a bound, and at the same moment a burning brand was 
thrown from without upon one of the huts of the encampment. This was 
followed by several others, and as the only covering of the huts was a light 
thatch of dry grass, several were soon in a bright blaze. Rushing to the pro- 
fessor's hut, Ashton shouted to his companions that the camp was attacked, 
and ordered them to bring out the cases containing the instruments, and such 
property as could be saved, and deposit them at the storehouse. This was 
quickly done, and by the time the whites reached the storehouse the flames, 
carried by the strong wind, were spreading in every direction. The camp was 
doomed, — the fight would be one for life. 

The blacks, under Charlie's orders, had assembled around the storehouse, 
and to the delight of their white comrades appeared cool and collected. By 
the light of the burning camp Ashton could see a vast crowd of Luina warriors 
assembled without the line of huts, and from these a shower of assegais began 
to fall into the camp. Forming his men around the storehouse, which was 
located in the centre of the encampment, and beyond the reach of the flames, 
Ashton ordered them to open fire on the dai'f: masses of their assailants, and 
to fire deliberately. He could see that the attacking party outnumbered his 
own at least twenty to one, and though he was well pleased at the firmness 
displayed by his own blacks, he knew the struggle must be a hard one. 
Calling Charlie to him, he said to him hastily, — 

" Charlie, now is the time for your knowledge of the Lui tongue to save 
us. We can defend ourselves here for a considerable time, but the fight is an 
unequal one. You must make your way out of the camp, where and how you 
can. Then hasten to Lialui ; there see Lobossi, and tell him his people are 
attacking us. See Machauana also, and inform him of our danger." 

Charlie made no reply, but at once darted off towards the burning huts, and 



234 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



disappeared among them. Ashton watched him until he was out of sight, and 
then turned to the fight which was raging around him. 

By this time the unequal struggle was at its height. The Luinas, uttering 
hideous yells, hurled their iron assegais upon the defenders of the camp, who 
answered with volleys of rifle and musket balls, which did considera^ble execu- 
tion among the assailants. Ashton and his companions used their breech- 
loading rifles with terrible effect, and were everywhere along the line, encour- 




THE DEFENCE OF THE BURNING CAMP. 



aging theu' men to fight bravely. By this time several of the negroes of the 
expedition were wounded, none of them very badly, however, but they held 
their ground manfully. The Luinas continued steadily to gain ground, and 
the destruction of the huts having removed all barriers to their progress, they 
advanced in heavy masses into the encampment, and renewed the fight at close 
quarters, uttering the most fearful yells, and seeming like so many enraged 
demons in the light of the dying fires. 

At this moment Momb^e, who had been fighting like a tiger, and whose 



ADVKyri'h'Ks ly rni: ui coiwr/n-. 23 'j 

shoulder liad been scvcri'K- ^I'a/.cd l)y an ns>('i;ai, ni^licd up (o wlici"*' Ilou-lon 
and Aslitou were standiuL;-, and with a look ol' auLiiiish on liis lacu lidd iij) hi- 
rifle, wliicli had just hurst. 

'' Ilcit^ my hravo folh)\v," said Houston, "take mine." 

Handing his rifle and cartridge-belt to Monihee, Houston hastened to the 
storehouse to obtain another weapon. There was no longer any danger of the 
fire reaching the stores, but the iron hail of assegais was falling so thickly about 
the place that the effort to reach the (Mitrance to the hut was accompanied with 
no little danger. Houston succeeded, however, in entering the hut unhjirmcd. 
Leaving the door open, the light of the dying fires enabled him to see diinlv 
the contents of the interior. The iirst object that met his eye was the large 
elephant rifle of the expedition, and near it a box of explosive cartridges. Tiie 
balls of these cartridges were charged with nitro-glycerine, and had the prop- 
erty of exploding upon striking an object, and tearing open the flesh of an 
elephant. A single shot was thus sufficient to cause death to one of these 
monsters of the forest. Only that very morning Houston had been examining 
the rifle, intending to overhaul it and see that it was in thorough order the 
next day. Now, as he listened to the deadly conflict waging around him, the 
young Californian felt that the piece was worth a dozen ordinary weapons. 
Hastily securing the rifle and the cartridges, he darted from the hut and re- 
joined his companions, now hard pressed by the Luinas, who were advancing 
steadily towards the storehouse. The distance between the combatants was s(» 
slight that Houston had but to discharge his weapon into the dark mass opposite 
him, sure of brin^jino; down a warrior at every shot. The first discharo^e of 
the elephant rifle was followed by a howl of dismay from the Luinas, who for 
the first time appeared to hesitate. Loading and firing rapidly, Houston dis- 
charged six shots at the warriors, each one being greeted with a yell of terror. 
The other defenders of the camp at the same time poured in a rapid and accu- 
rate fire, and the assailants w^ere brought to bay. Suddenly they set up a wild 
chorus of yells, very different from their former war-cries, and the next 
moment turned and fled, panic-stricken, from the field. Houston followed 
them with several more shots from his rifle, which but increased their terror 
and hastened their retreat. In a few minutes not one of the attacking party 
was to be seen. 

The rapid tramp of a large body of men approaching from the city was 
now heard, and soon after Charlie arrived with a considerable force, com- 
manded by Machauana, which had been sent by the king to the rescue of the 
whites. Their services were not needed to repel the attack, but our travellers 
were well pleased to have them at hand in the event of a renewal of the con- 
flict. Machauana brought a message from the king that he was ignorant of 
the whole affair, and he could only suppose that his people, thinking the whites 



236 O^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

meant to attack them in conjunction with the Portuguese who were aiding the 
rebels in the east, had taken the initiative, and fallen upon the camp of their 
own accord ; but that he would use his whole power to prevent their being 
further molested. 

'^ Lobossi may speak the truth/' said Ashton to the professor ; " but if he 
did not order the attack I am sure it was the work of Gambella." 

Requesting Machauana to remain on the ground with his men until morn- 
ing, Professor Moreton, who seemed to have recovered nearly all his former 
vigor during the battle, ordered fires to be built, and by their light proceeded 
to look after the wounded of the party. None of the Avhites had been injured 
save Ashton, whose forehead had been grazed by an assegai. The wound was 
trifling, but for a few hours was very painful. Mombee and twelve of the 
negroes had been wounded by assegais, but none of the Benguela men had 
been struck. The wounds were quickly dressed, and the injured men made as 
comfortable as possible. A search was then made for the w^ounded or dead of 
the attacking party, but none were to be found, their comrades having carried 
all of them off in their flight. 

During the night a council of war was held by our travellers, at which 
Machauana was also present. The veteran warrior advised his white friends 
not to think of remaining in their present position, but to abandon it the next 
day and retreat to the mountains, near a place called Catongo. 

" There,'' said he, " you can build another camp, and can resist more suc- 
cessfully any further attack that may be made upon you. Should fresh danger 
threaten you, I will try to warn you, and in the mean time I will try to 
provide you with food." 

The advice of Machauana was adopted by Ashton, wnth whom, as the 
commander of the expedition, the decision lay, and it was resolved to begin 
the retreat to the mountains as early as possible the next day. Although no 
lives had been lost, the party had suffered severe losses in property, all their 
possessions save the articles in the storehouse having been destroyed in the 
burning huts. The camp equipage, the mackintosh boats, much of their 
clothing, their bedding, and many other articles, had thus been lost. But for 
Charlie's happy forethought in advising the construction of the storehouse, 
the expedition would have been ruined, for the attack was so sudden, and the 
fire spread so quickly, that it was with difficulty they had been able to remove 
even the scientific instruments and the few articles they had managed to rescue 
at the commencement of the assault. 

Our travellers were very much perplexed, however, to account for the 
sudden panic and flight of the blacks. This w^as explained to them about 
daybreak by Machauana. He told them he had sent one of his men into the 
city for news. The Luinas had suffered heavily in the fight, and their defeat 



ADV/:.\TUh'i:s y.v 77//; /j'f covsrnv. 237 

had s})rea(.l constornutioii tlirouoliout tlie city. 'V\w warriors had Ix'cii coiili- 
dent of victory, and upon eiitcriiig the vx\\\\\) had made 11 vigorous advance 
upon the defenders, wiien suddenly the whites liad directed against them some 
terrible and powerful sorcery, which they were unable to resist. Two of their 
bravest warriors Iiad been literally torn in pieces, and three others had been 
decapitated by a terrible fire which seemed to burst from their bodies. It was 
this aj)palling spectacle that had caused the sudden panic and flight. 

'* It is as I suspected," said Houston to Ashton. ^' The nitro-glycerine 
bullets of the elephant rifle did it. It was a lucky thought of mine to use 
that rifle." 

"We must kec}) the secret, however," said Ashton, "and allow them to 
think it sorcery." 

Immediately after sunrise, Ashton determined to seek the king, and 
denounce him for the attack of the previous night. Taking with him Houston 
and Philip Lee, with Charlie as their interpreter, he set out at once for the 
city. They found Lobossi seated in the great square of the town, surrounded 
by his court and large numbers of his people. Lobossi was very friendly in 
his reception of the young men, but Ashton at once began to speak to him 
bitterly of the attack upon the camp. 

" Before all your people, O Lobossi," said the young man, sternly, " I charge 
you with the responsibility for the cowardly attack upon us. The most sacred 
obligation of the Luinas, the law of hospitality, has been broken, and all your 
people who have lost relatives or friends in the battle, must blame you for 
their sorrow. You are king here, but you could not protect us. You allowed 
us to be attacked, and we defended ourselves." 

In reply Lobossi repeated that he had known nothing of the affair until 
the sound of the firing and the receipt of Ashton's message had warned him 
of their danger. Then he had sent a force of warriors to their assistance. The 
king then endeavored, with all his ingenuity, to extract from Ashton the secret 
of the sorcery which had caused the attacking party to beat such a hasty 
retreat, for to sorcery and that alone he and his people attributed the terrible 
effects of the explosive balls so happily employed by Houston. 

" King Lobossi," said Ashton, sternly, " we bore the attack of your people 
for a long time before we called to our aid the terrible powers we possess. 
Know that the sorcery of the white man is more destructive than that of the 
black man. As long as you treat us well we will not harm you ; but if we 
are attacked again, we will call down the terrible fire and tear all your men 
to pieces. Woe to the Luina who raises his hand against us after this." 

These words, which were faithfully translated by Charlie, produced a pro- 
found impression upon both the king and the people. Lobossi assured Ashton 
that he and his friends were safe, and advised him to build another camp. 



238 O^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

"We shall build another camp/' said Ashton, coldly, "but not here. We 
are going to the mountains, and shall camp at Catongo to-day. There we will 
await the fulfilment of your promise. Beware how you trifle with us, King 
Lobossi. We have power to destroy all your people if you again provoke us 
to anger." 

With these words he abruptly quitted the king's presence, followed by his 
companions, and returned to camp. 

"You have cheek enough for anything, Ashton," said Houston, as they 
walked along. "I never could have talked so to Lobossi." 

"We are in a serious scrape," said Ashton, "and it wall take cheek as well 
as courage to get out of it. As for the sorcery business, we must keep the true 
character of it secret. Not even Charlie must be told of it until we are out of 
this country." 

Upon reaching the camp, Ashton hurried forward the preparations for the 
retreat, and at nine o'clock on the morning of August 19 the march was 
begun. The distance to Catongo was not great, being less than half a day's 
march. The party moved slowly, to accommodate the wounded, but the place 
was reached early in the afternoon. All the men save the wounded carried 
double loads, even the two pombeiros taking part in this labor. 

Arrived at the mountain spur on which Catongo is situated, Ashton at 
once selected a site for the camp. It was on a little eminence, which sloped 
on one side to a lake of considerable size. It was well adapted for defence, 
and by nightfall a camp had been constructed. 

The next day Ashton made a close examination of the stores on hand, and 
found that by putting the entire party on short rations he had food enough for 
six days. In the afternoon Houston made the discovery that the lake was full 
of fish. 

" We shall i^ot starve yet, professor," he said, cheerfully, " even if Lobossi 
refuses to allow b"s people to sell us food." 



CHAPTER X. 



ON THP: ZAMBEZI. 



ON the morning of the 21st of Angust, Charlie came to Ashton, and said 
Caiumbuca was in the camp, and desired to speak with iiim. Ashton 
signified his willingness to see him, and in a few moments the man approached. 
He came forward with a bold, confident air, wliich changed to one of cringing 
servility, as he met the cold, stern gaze of the young man. 

Caiumbuca began to excuse his absence by saying that he had been sick at 
Lialui, and had been unable to come to the assistance of his companions during 
the attack upon them. Ashton cut him short by telling him coldly that they 
no longer needed his assistance, and that as he had managed to make such good 
friends in Lialui he had better return to them. He warned him that if he 
attempted to injure them any further with Lobossi, he would have the white 
man's fire that had done such havoc among the Luinas descend upon him and 
tear him to pieces. He concluded by ordering Caiumbuca to leave the camj) 
at once, and never return to it again. The traitor, who was as firm a believer 
in the sorcery of tlie whites as was Lobossi himself, trembled at Ashton's 
threat, and quickly left the camp. Neither Ashton nor his companions ever 
saw him again. 

Professor Moreton rallied quickly in the purer air of the mountains, and 
in the course of a few days was fully himself again. As Ashton had done so 
well in command of the party, however, he determined to allow him to retain 
the control until something definite could be agreed upon with the king. 

On the 22d of August messengers arrived from Lobossi, bringing food, 
and bearing an invitation to the professor and his party to return to Lialui 
and be his guests until the question of their journey could be decided, which 
would be in a few days. Our travellers, however, were resolved not to quit 
their camp in the forest, and Professor Moreton bade tiie messengers inform 
the king that his wounded men were not yet well enough to bear tlie journey. 

The next morning Ashton despatched Charlie at daybreak for Lialui, to 
learn something definite respecting Lobossi's intentions towards them. Charlie 
returned at nightfall, and reported that when he reached Lobossi's house the 

239 



240 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

great council was in session, and a heated debate was going on. Carimuque, 
the chief of Quisseque, had sent several messengers to Lobossi with a request 
from an English missionary, who was at Patamatenga, to be permitted to enter 
the country, as he was very anxious to visit the Lui. Matagja, the minister 
of foreign affairs for the South, energetically opposed the request of the mis- 
sionary. There were Englishmen enough in the land at present, he said, and 
it would not be wise to allow more to come. They were all sorcerers, and 
there was no telling what mischief they might bring upon the country. The 
debate, which Charlie stayed to hear, ended in a resolution not to allow the 
English missionary to enter King Lobossi's dominions. 

As for their own affairs, all Lobossi would say was that he desired to see 
the professor and Ashton as soon as possible. 

" No go to Zumbo now, Master 'Fessor,'' said Charlie. " How do to go 
see missionary ?" 

Charlie's question but expressed a thought that had sprung up in the minds 
of both the professor and Ashton. The journey to the Zumbo was clearly an 



^^ 



I) ) y 



A ZAMBKZI CANOE. 



THE PADDLES. 



impossibility now, and the descent of the river was the only plan left open to 
them. The map was consulted, and they found that if Lobossi would give 
them boats they could reach Embarira, near the confluence of the Cuando 
or Linianti with the Zambezi, from which place they could march across the 
country to Patamatenga and join the missionary. Such a journey would 
require a month,, if made in boats. From that point they could endeavor to 
reach the Transvaal and the English settlements in Natal. During the next 
two days the plan was earnestly discussed, and was adopted as the only resource 
left them. 

On the morning of the 26th Professor Moreton and Ashton, accompanied 
by Charlie, set out from the camp at daybreak for Lialui. They were well 
received by King Lobossi, who was surrounded by his court and a number of 
his people. The king told his white friends that he hoped they were now 



ox Till-: ZAMlll.ZI. 



2U 



convinced that lie was not thoir cnoiny, and assured tlicin tlial Ik.' liad in no 
way eonnived at Caininhuea's treaehery. 

Without replying to this, Professor Morcton said they had eoinc to ask the 




SLOT OF THE SO.NGUE. 



king to assist them in a journey to go and join an English missionary who 
they knew was at Patauiatenga. 

"How do you expect to get there without carriers?" asked the king. "You 
know you have none." 

This question was loudly applauded by the bystanders. 

"I have no carriers, it is true,'^ replied the professor; "but there is the 
Liambai. You have boats, and if you will let me have what I want, and men 
to manage them, I can do without carriers.'' 

"The Liambai is indeed there," said the king, "but it has cataracts. How 
will you get over them ?" 

16 



242 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

Fresh applause greeted this questioD. 

The professor replied that he was aware of the fact, but that where the 
rapids occurred the boats and their contents might be drawn ashore, carried 
around them, and relaunched in the stream below, and the journey be thus 
continued. 

Lobossi retorted, with a broad grin, that his people had very little strength, 
and could not drag the boats ashore. This attempt at wit was greeted with a 
roar of laughter from the bystanders. The king instantly changed his manner, 
and demanded of the professor why he and his companions had not come to 
live at Lialui, as he had ordered them. 

" We have not done so," replied the professor, rising to his feet, and 
speaking quietly but sternly, while at the same time he looked the king full in 
the eye, — " we have not done so for many reasons, the principal of which, 
King Lobossi, is that you are a crafty knave, who since our arrival has done 
nothing but deceive us, in order to try to rob us of all we have. I tell you, 
in presence of your people, that you are a robber and an assassin." 

Then turning on his heel, the professor left the king's house, followed by 
his companions, amid a dead silence. 

From the king's house the professor and his companions went to visit Mach- 
auana. The old man smiled as he listened to the professor's account of the 
interview with the king, and said it was the right way to talk to Lobossi. It 
would bring him to his senses. He said the king was really indignant at the 
attack that had been made upon them, and had censured Gambella severely for 
it. He had also refused to sanction any plan against their lives. He advised 
the professor, when he came back to Lialui, to claim the hospitality of Gam- 
bella. Once lodged in his house, the minister would not dare to plot against 
them. In the end he did not doubt that the king would send them on their 
way to join the missionary. 

As they were leaving Machauana's house they were met by a messenger 
from Lobossi, who said the king earnestly desired to see them before they set 
out for their camp. They returned at once to the king's house, and this time 
found him alone. 

Lobossi assured the professor that he and his companions had really no 
reason to doubt that he was their friend, that he intended to have some boats 
gotten ready for them, and that the Liambai was open to them. 

"Lobossi," said the professor, "you have been badly advised by your 
councillors. We came here your friends, and we are your friends still. What 
gave the Macololo kings their great power was their generous and noble treat- 
ment of the great white traveller, with whom Machauana went to Benguela 
and Loanda.* The Luinas are pursuing a course that will drive away all 

* Dr. Livingstone. 



ON THE ZAMIU:/J. 243 

trade botwecMi your people and the white men. Yon ahcady have a civil war 
on your hands, and yon will need such articles as only the white traders can 
supply you with. Quarrel with my people, and you will inflict such misfor- 
tunes upon your country that your own })eople will rise against you and drive 
you iVoin your throne." 

Lobossi seemed nuieh impressed by this speec^h, and renewed his protesta- 
tions of friendship. He declared that he would give orders that very day for 
the boats to be gotten ready. 

^' When you come to me and tell me on your word as a king that the boats 
are ready, I will believe you, and we will all come back to Lialui," said the 
professor. 

"Do not judge me hastily,'' said Lobossi, earnestly. " I am a king, and I 
am your good friend. Wait patiently for a day or two, and you will see that I 
will keep my word." 

Thus the interview ended, and the professor and his companions went back 
to the camp, feeling more faith in Lobossi than at any previous time. They 
reached the camp sorely fatigued. 

The next afternoon Machauana arrived with a message from the king, 
announcing that the canoes were in readiness, and inviting the party to return 
to Lialui the next day. Lobossi, the old man said, was acting in good faith 
now ; the canoes were actually in readiness, and he advised them to lose no 
time in returning the next day. The professor promised to act upon his 
advice, and requested him to convey a message to Gambella for him, to prepare 
quarters for his party, as they intended to be his guests during their stay in 
the city, in order to show their confidence in his good faith. This Machauana 
promised to do, and added, laughingly, that after this Gambella would 
certainly do all he could to get them away on their journey, as the presence of 
so many guests would be expensive to him. 

Early on the morning of the 28th of August the camp at Catongo was 
broken up, and the party set out on their return to Lialui. The march was 
slow, as the men were burdened with double loads. The wounded were nearly 
well, and were able to carry something, so that nothing was left behind at the 
camp. Lialui was reached at half-past two in the afternoon, and the party 
proceeded at once to Gambella's house. Gambella received his white guests 
with stately and even friendly courtesy, assigned them quarters in his ow^n 
house, and provided shelter for the negroes of the expedition in some of the 
outhouses attached to his dwelling. 

Late in the afternoon the professor and his young companions went to visit 
the king. Lobossi received them kindly, and remarked, with a peculiar smile, 
that they had done well to make Gambella their host, and that they would 
have nothing to fear as long as they had a claim upon his hospitality. He 



244 ^UR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

told them that all their troubles were due to the treachery of Caiumbuca, who 
had endeavored to have them killed in the hope of obtaining a part of their 
property. He added that he was now convinced that Caiumbuca had deceived 
both himself and Gambella, and that if he could lay hands on him he would 
punish him severely. The fellow Jiad disappeared, however, and was nowhere 
to be found. The boats were in readiness, and the professor and his party 
could depart on the next day but one. He wished to make some final arrange- 
ments the next day, and in the mean time they would be safe and comfortable 
under the protection of Gambella. 

The 29th of August was passed by our travellers in making preparations 
for the journey. The two Biheno pombeiros and their men, who had re- 
mained faithful to the party through all their misfortunes, were paid their 
wages by Professor Moreton, and were allowed to retain their guns and given 
a liberal supply of ammunition, as a reward for their gallant conduct on the 
night of the attack on the camp. They were well pleased with their rewards, 
and agreed to carry the baggage of the party to the boats the next morning, 
when they were to set out on their return to the Bih§. Professor Moreton 
spent a good part of the day in writing to Silva Porto. He related the ad- 
ventures of the party in full, and did not fail to make known to the old trader 
the treachery of Caiumbuca. This letter he entrusted to one of the pombeiros, 
with orders to deliver it to Silva Porto's agent at Belmonte, who would 
forward it to his master. 

While the professor was thus employed, Ashton was busy purchasing 
supplies for the party. With Gambella's aid he succeeded in procuring pro- 
visions for ten days. Gambella assured him he would have no difficulty in 
obtaining food along the river, and that the country along its course abounded 
in game of all kinds. The minister was now as anxious to hasten the 
journey of his guests as they were to depart. Having failed to get them 
out of the way in any other manner, he was only too glad for them to leave 
the country. 

The expedition was now reduced to Professor Moreton, the four young 
men, Charlie, Mombee, and the five Benguela negroes, who remained faithful 
to their resolve to go on to the great sea, making in all twelve persons. With 
the assistance of the seven negroes our travellers were to make their way across 
fully half of the African continent, and through regions and dangers of which 
they had no knowledge. All recognized that they were now entering upon 
the most perilous part of their journey ; yet all were eager to depart. 

At daybreak on the morning of the 30th the entire party were in readiness 
to start. Soon after Lobossi came to say farewell. He brought with him a 
dozen negroes, who, he said, would go with the party and man the canoes. 
He would gladly send a larger force, he added, but the great council was 



ox THE ZAMllI'.ZI. 245 

opposes! to sending any uicn away, witli tlie necessity for raislnir tionps on tluMi- 
hands. These men were his own slaves, however, and he could (h) as Ik; liked 
with them. Then turning to the negroes, he eoniniandcd them to obey the; 
orders of the whites as if they eanie from himself, and told them they woiild 
answer with their heads for their obedience. He informed the professor that 
these slaves would conduct him to the village of Itufa, on tlie Liambai, to the 
chief of which they bore positive orders to provide the travellers with fresh 
boats and men to man them for the voyage to Embarira. He gave the pro- 
fessor a small tusk of ivory as a present to the chief of the village, and said he 
had caused an ox to be slaughtered, and the flesh sent to the boats as provision 
for a part of the voyage. 

" You see now,'' said Lobossi, " that I am not a bad man, and that I have 
kept faith with you." 

He spoke with a simple dignity that touched the professor and his com- 
panions; and the former replied that he and his friends would forget the 
troubles they had passed through, and would remember only his last acts of 
kindness. He then presented the king with the twelve guns and two kegs of 
powder he had promised him when the boats should be ready, and to this 
added an excellent rifle and a supply of cartridges, which he asked his majesty 
to accept for his own use. Lobossi was delighted watli the presents, and begged 
the professor to use his influence to induce the English traders to supply him 
with arms and ammunition. The king then bade the travellers a hearty fare- 
w^ell, and took his departure. Gambella's parting with them was less cordial, 
but was still friendly, and Ashton noticed that he heaved a long sigh of relief 
as he saw the party leave his house. 

Our travellers set out from Lialui in a southwesterly direction. An hour's 
walking brought them to an arm of the river, which is called the Little Liam- 
bai. Here they found six good-sized canoes in readiness for departure, and in 
charge of two of Lobossi's servants, who delivered to the professor tiie flesh 
of the ox sent by the king. 

No time was lost in loading the canoes with the baggage of the party, a 
portion being placed in each. The Bihenos, who had fulfilled their bargain to 
the letter, took leave of the whites, and as the canoes pushed ofl' from the 
shore fired a salute from their guns, and shouted a cordial farew^ell. 

Each of the canoes contained a portion of the baggage, and was provided 
with two of the king's slaves to paddle it. In the first canoe went Ashton and 
Charlie, in the second Houston and Mombee, in the third Professor Moreton 
and one of the Benguela men, in the fourth Hubbard and a Benguela man, in 
the fifth Philip Lee and another Benguela man, and in the sixth the other two 
Benguela men. Thus each canoe contained two members of the party, besides 
the two oarsmen ; and as the former were armed, the safety of each boat and 



246 ^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

the property in it was insured. This order was preserved as far as possible 
during the entire descent of the river. 

After leaving the shore the canoes pursued a southerly course for a quarter 
of a mile, and then, leaving the Little Liambai, entered a canal and steered 
southwest into a chain of lakes, through which the western branch pours a 
stream of water into the eastern or true Liambai. The spaces between these 
lakes were often nothing but muddy shallows, and at such places it was neces- 
sary to unload the boats and drag them from lake to lake. This was severe 
work, but all hands joined willingly in it. At six o'clock the party bivouacked 
in an open plain on the bank of a lake. The plain had been recently burned 
over, and there were no materials for constructing a shelter. Enough wood 
was procured on the opposite side of the lake to make a fire, and portions of 
the ox presented by Lobossi were roasted, and furnished a comfortable supper 
for both whites and blacks. 

At daybreak the next morning, August 31, our travellers were astir. 
Breakfast was soon despatched, and the journey was resumed. Half an hour's 
paddling brought the canoes out of the lake into the main branch of the 
Liambai, which at that point was about two hundred and twenty yards wide 
and very deep. Noticing an abundance of game on the banks, Ashton caused 
the boats to land, and the four young Americans went ashore, and in half an 
hour succeeded in shooting six antelopes, which were placed in the boats. 
These, it was calculated, would furnish the party with meat for at least two 
days. The skins were carefully spread out to dry, as they would be useful for 
trading purposes along the river. 

All day the canoes floated down the river, the swift current of which 
greatly assisted the exertions of the boatmen. Numerous hippopotami appeared, 
coming sometimes dangerously near the canoes; and as the boatmen were in 
mortal terror of the huge animals, they kept tiie canoes in the shallow water 
near the shore, where the hippopotami could not trouble them. Occasionally 
a crocodile would be seen swimming by, or basking upon the shore. The 
young Americans were sorely tem])ted to fire at the huge monsters, but 
Ashton's orders were positive. As the future was uncertain, no ammunition 
was to be wasted. 

Nearly four days were passed on the river paddling down the stream, and 
camping upon its shores at night, and about noon on the 3d of September the 
village of Itufa was reached. The river here was fully a mile in width, and 
a strong east wind was blowing, which made the canoes rock so violently that 
there was danger of their being upset. The idea of being thrown out into a 
deep stream abounding in crocodiles was by no means pleasant to any of the 
occupants of the boats, and they were heartily glad when they were safely 
ashore at Itufa. 



ox THE Z A Mill:/. I. 



247 



Tl»o c'h'u'l' of Itula \\\v{ the |):ii"(y at (lie lamliiii;- place, and ^I'cctcM] lliciii 
conliallv. lie i2;ave tlicMii quarters in (he village, and told tlicra tlmt their 
c'oiniiiiij had not been unexpected bv him, as Lobossi, not content with the 
instructions lie had sent by the boatmen, had despatched a swift messenger 
ovcrhind with rcpcat(Hl orders to the cliief to tr(!at the wliite men and their 
companions witii kindness, and furnish them with boats without dehiy. The 
boats, he said, would be ready as soon as possible; it would take a day to 
collect them, and in the mean time he was willing to sell the travellers what 
food they needed. 

The chief was as good as his word, and spent the next day in getting 
together the necessary canoes. By nightfall six canoes of larger size than 
those bv which our travellers had come from Lialui were collected at Ttufa, 




ITIIFA HOUSE. 



and the men who were to man them had been selected. Professor Moreton 
spent the day in purchasing food, and succeeded in obtaining a week's supply, 
which, wdth the provisions already on hand, and such game as they might be 
able to secure, would last the i)arty to Quisseque. Lobossi's slaves were re- 
warded w^ith }3resents, and the new boatmen were promised liberal wages, to 
be paid upon the safe arrival of the party at Embarira. 

On the 5th of September the boats were loaded and in readiness to depart 
a little after sunrise. The chief of Itufa accompanied the party to the place 
of embarkation, and, when the moment of departure had arrived, said to the 
professor that he hoped he was satisfied, as he had fulfilled the orders of his 
king (Lobossi) to the letter. Professor Moreton replied that the chief had 
shown himself a faithful subject of his king, and that, as he had done so well, 
he would now give him the tusk of ivory which the king had intrusted to his 
white friend to be given to the chief in the event of his carrying out the orders 
sent him. The chief was greatly pleased w^th the present, which he said he 



248 067e YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

prized more as a niai'k of his s()vi'rc'i<;n's good will than for its intrinsic 
value. 

The party then set oif, the order of the boats being the same as before, 
Ashton's leading. Though the canoes were larger than those of the Lui, our 
travellers soon found that they were quite as liable to u})Het, and as the broad 
river was considerably ruilled by a stift' east wind they left the shore with 
some misgivings. The boatmen kept in the shallow water, however, and no 
accident occurred. After a voyage of four hours, the boatmen declared the^' 
could go no farther that day, as the S{)irits that guarded that part of the river 
would visit their wmth upon them unless they halted there over night. They 
were firm in their decision, and the travellers were compelled to yield, and spend 
half a day in idleness. 

The spot selected for their encampment was very different from anything 
they had seen since leaving the Bihe. It was at the extreme south of the vast 
Lui plain, where two mountain ridges converged, leaving only space for the 
bed of the Zambezi, there a mile and a quarter wide. A broken and rugged 
country succeeded the plain, and Avas covered with a luxuriant vegetation. 
Volcanic rocks were scattered thickly about, and rose abrui)tly from the stream, 
forming its banks. The change from the bare, flat plain to this bold and well- 
wooded reecion was so sudden and so decided as to be almost startlino;. It was 
very agreeable to our travellers, who were heartily sick of the tame and un- 
interesting country through which they had been journeying so long. 

As the hour for the evening meal drew near, Mombce lit his fire to cook 
supper. Suddenly a spark from tlie flames flew into the lofty dry grass which 
covered the ground, and in an instant the whole place was ablaze. So rapidly 
'.lid the fire spread that the entire party were obliged to make a rush for the 
canoes, and push out into the river to avoid it. This accident necessitated a 
removal to a canq)ing-place about a mile lower down the stream. 

The next day was passed in paddling along the basaltic region, through 
which the great river breaks its way. Numerous small islands, rich in vege- 
tation, were met, and on one of these the party encanq)cd for the night. 

The voyage was resumed early on the morning of the 7th, and for two 
hours the canoes glided by lovely islets and past bold masses of basaltic rock. 
Suddenly Ashton's boat paused and waited for the others to come up. When 
his companions had joined him, he pointed silently to two large lions on the 
right bank. They wen? drinking from the river, and had not noticed tiie 
boats. 

*'I think," said Ashton, in a low tone, "that notwithstanding the necessity 
for saving our ammunition, we might try a shot or two at them." 

So saying, he ordered the boats to make for the bank of the river just 
above the animals. The four young men s[)rang ashore with their rifles, and 



ON Tin: z.\Miij:zi. 



249 



set out cautiously towards the lions, A( (lie same inoiiient tlio animals caught 
sight of them, aiul, turning, walked slowly up to the top of a small hill, where 
they paused and surveyed their ])ursuers calmly. They allowed tiie young 
men to approach within a hundred yards of them, and then set off again up 
the stream, moving leisurely, and manifesting neither fear nor haste. After 
they had gone a short distance they stopped again, and allowed the young men 
to approach within fifty yards of them ; then they resumed their retreat at a 
quicker pace, and disappeared in a low thicket close by. The hunters paused 




llOl STON AM) THK HO.V. 



at the same moment, uncertain what course to pursue. As he was about to 
turn to speak to his companions, Ashton, who was somewhat in advance of 
them, noticed the head of one of the majestic beasts peering through the bushes 
within twenty paces of him. Raising his rifle^ he took deliberate aim and 
fired, and the head disappeared. Uncertain as to the effect of his shot, the 
young man was about to enter the thicket, when he was startled by a loud, 
wrathful roar, and the next moment the other animal, a huge lioness, bounded 
out of the undergrowth and dashed towards Houston. 

The young men had been so intent upon watching Ashton's shot that the 
assault of the lioness took them by surprise. Houston's coolness did not desert 



250 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IS AlinCA. 



him, liowH'ver, and \w. calinlv raised liis rilh; and lii-od at the beast, wliich was 
within h'ss than five yards of him. At the same time Piiilip Lee and Hub- 
bard discharged their rifles at the lioness. All the shots were well directed, 
and the hn«;e animal, alter staggerin<r for a moment, and uttering a wild roar 
which seemed to sliake the very i^round, fell dead at Houston's feet. 

"That was well done, boys," said Ashton, "and done not a moment too 
quick ! She's a magnificent creature, and we must save her skin and }>aws. 
Now let us see what has become of the other." 

Entering the thicket, they found the lion Ashton had shot lying stiff and 
motionless. The ball had penetrated the brain, and death had been instanta- 




TIIE CAM I' AT SIO.MA. 



neous. Hubbard was sent l)ack to the boats to bring up some of the negroes, 
who quickly stripped off the skin and claws of the lions. These were con- 
veyed to the boats, and the voyage was resumed. The young men were very 
proud of their success, as each had had a share in the death of the noble 
beasts; but to Ashton all accorded the chief triumph, as his single ball had 
slain the proud king of the African forest. 

In about an hour after, starting again, our travellers heard a distant and 
indistinct sound, like the breaking of the surf on the shore of the ocean. The 
sound grew louder as they proceeded down the stream, and finally changed to a 
dull heavy roar. Ashton, using Charlie as interpreter, asked the boatmen the 
meaning of it, and was told that they were uearing the great cataract of Gonha, 
the roar of which, they said, was like the thunder, and could be heard for many 



ox Tin: ZAM/u:/i. 



251 



miles. Ashtoii caiiseil his <.'anoc to lie to for ii lew moments, and as liis com- 
panions drew nearer shouted the news to them. Soon after the ellect of the 
cataract began to make itself ap})arent in the stream, the current of which 
became so rapid as to render the most cautious navigation on the })art of the 
boatmen necessary. Late in the afternoon the i)arty paddled ashore near the 
hamlets of Sioma, and the camp was pitched close by the river side beneath 
the shade of an enormous sycamore. It was simply a bivouac in the open air. 




THE CATARACT OF GOXHA 



The next morning the party received a visit from the chief of the Sioma 
hamlets, w^ho brought them a present of several measures of groundnuts. At 
the professor^s request, he readily gave them a guide to the cataract. Leaving 
Charlie, Mombee, and the Benguela men to watch over the safety of their boats 
and baggage, the professor and the four young men set off early in the morning 
to visit the cataract of Gonha. They proceeded along the left bank of an arm of 
the Liambai or Zambezi, " which runs first to the southeast, then bends towards 
the west, and finally runs east and west, and in that position receives two other 



252 ^^^^ YOU so FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

branches of tlie river, which form three islands covered with splendid vegeta- 
tion. At the site where the river begins to bend westward, there is a fall in 
tlie gronnd ot* tln-ee yards in one hnndred and twenty, forming the Situmba 
rapids. After the jnnetion of the three branches of the Zambezi, it assumes 
a width of not more than six hundred and fifty-six yards, where it throws out 
a small arm to the southwest of trifling depth and volume. The rest of the 
waters, as they speed onward, meet with a transverse cutting of basalt, with a 
rapid drop in the level of forty-nine feet, over which they precipitate them- 
selves with a frightful roar. The cutting creates three grand falls, a centre 
and two side ones. Between and over the rocks which separate the three great 
masses of water tumble innumerable cascades, producing a marvellous effect. 
On the noi'th a third branch of the river continues running on the same upper 
level as the cataract, and then empties into the main stream in five exquisitely 
beautiful cascades, the last of which is four hundred and forty yards below the 
great fall." 

Our travellers were deeply impressed with the richness and beauty of the 
scene, which, though lacking the grandeur of the great falls of the Zambezi, 
has a loveliness peculiarly its own. They spent the better part of the day 
viewing it from different points, and returned to the camp at nightfall, not a 
little saddened by the thought that they would see the beautiful scene no more. 

From the Sioma hamlets to a point below the cataract of Gonha, called the 
Mamungo, the Zambezi was utterly unnavigable for canoes, and it now became 
necessary to transport the boats around the rapids and cataracts by land. The 
distance overland was three miles, and the route lay through a thick forest. 
The 9th of September was devoted to the task gf carrying the boats from 
Sioma to the Mamungo. As only three boats could be conveyed at a time, the 
entire day was consumed in the undertaking. The task was performed by 
the natives of the Sioma h;"::ii'ets, people of Calacas, or slaves, governed by a 
Luina chief. They are .stationed there by the Lui government for the especial 
purpose of perf ■ ;.rii'ng this work, which they are bound to do without the 
right to dema'ivi any recompense whatever. They executed their task so well 
and so pat-^ntly, however, that the professor bestowed a liberal reward upon 
them wh ju the canoes were safely launched in the river at the Mamungo. 

Tl e night was passed on the river shore at the Mamungo, and on the 10th 
the party set out once more down the Zambezi. In an hour and a half after 
str rting our travellers reached the mouth of the river Lumbe, which flows 
into the Zambezi from the north, and is about twenty-one yards wide at its 
ra^uth. An hour was spent in examining the Lumbe, which falls into the 
I iambai from an elevation of nearly one hnndred feet by a series of beautiful 
ci^cades. Soon after camping, early in the afternoon, Houston, Philip Lee, and 
Hubbard succeeded in killing three antelopes, which were brought into camp. 



ON rilE ZAMHKZI. 



In about an horn* and a half after startiiiir, on 



253 

the 11th, the party reached 
the cataract of Calle. Tliere the river, which was nearly a thousand yards in 
width, was divided by three islands into four branches. The river made a fall 
of about ten ^QQt, and the swift waters rushed over the rocks which obstructed 




CARRYIXG THE BOATS OVERLAND AT THE CATARACT OF GOXHA. 

all four branches, with a hoarse, sullen roar. To pass the cataract it was neces- 
sary to unload the canoes, and tow them along a little channel of comparatively 
smooth water, which skirted the right bank, and gave access to the river below 
the rapids. The goods were then brought forward by the negroes, the canoes 
were reloaded, and the voyage was resumed. Half an hour later some rapids 
of lesser importance were reached, and over these the boatmen steered the 
canoes with great skill, as they did also over a second series of rapids which 
were encountered somewhat later. The rest of the day was spent in paddling 
between jagged cliifs, which showed clearly the marks of the violent current 
which swept by them, and at night they bivouacked in the open air. 

Soon after starting, on the morning of the 12th, the great rapids of the 



254 ^^'i^ youya folks jx africa. 

l)i)nil)UL' were reaelu'(]. The iall ol" the river here wiis only about six feet, and 
the stream was divided into tour ehannels by islands. The force of the waters 
was so oreat, however, and the channels were so full of rocks, that the rapids 
were inipassid)le. It was again necessary, therefore, to uidoad the canoes, and 
Hoat them down the stream, close in to the banks. This was a most fatiguing 
operation, as the rapids were nearly a third of a mile in length, and consumed 
considerable time. It was safely accomplished, however, and the travellers 
re-embarked in ihe ([uieter waters below the falls. In a little while another 
rapid was encountered, over which the canoes were carried safely ])y the boat- 
men ; and after four hours more of paddling by lovely islets, green with 
foliage, the party went into camp near the mouth of the riv^er Joco. 

The professor now began to experience a slight return of his fever, and the 
whole })arty were more or less affected by the fatigue of sitting so long in the 
cramped position they were compelled to assume in the canoes, and also by 
sleeping so constantly in the open air. They therefore decided to spend the 
13th of September in resting. 

Breakfast was somewhat later that morning, as they were to remain at 
their camping-])laee during the day. The meal was scarcely finished when 
some of the negroes reported that they had seen elephants in the immediate 
neighborhood. The vouno; men were on their feet in a minute, eao-er for an 
encounter with the animals; and even the professor, who was really sick, in- 
sisted on having a share in the s[)ort. Houston, as the huntsman of the expe- 
dition, carried the ele})hant rifle, which he had handled so effectively on the 
night of the attack on the camp in the Lui, and which was now for the first 
time to be put to its legitimate use, and the others were armed with their 
breech-loaders. Leaving Charlie and Mombee in charge of the boats, they set 
out at once in the direction indicated by the negroes. They soon found the trail 
of the animals, and, following it, came up with them on the bank of the Joco. 

Moving through the thick jungle which concealed them from the animals, 
the hunters saw seven large elephants wallowing in a marshy pool on the 
river's brink. They were of unusual size, and were rolling in the mud in 
happy ignorance of the near a})proaeh of danger. For a moment the entire 
party paused, and gazed at the huge monsters in silent admiration. Then 
moving cautiously through the jungle, which grew close up to the pool, ihey 
managed to approach within a very short distance of the ele{)hants witiiout 
l)eing observed by them. 

"I intend to fire at that large fellow in front," s.aid Houston; "so aim at 
the others." 

" We can't well fire at them while they are lying in the pool," said Ashton. 
*' I'll give a shout, and that will bring them to their feet. Then we must do 
our best. Are you all ready?" 



O.V THE ZAMIiEZl. 



255 




THE AFiaCAN "ELEPHANT. 



Being answered in the affirmative, Asbton uttered a loud, ringing shout, 
which caused the animals to cease their sport, rise to their feet, and gaze around 
in alarm. At the same moment the reports of the five rifles rang out on the 
air. The elephant at which Houston had aimed fell instantly, and one of the 



256 O^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IX AFRICA. 

others tottered for ii inoincnt, then sank to his knees, and, after a feeble effort 
to rise acain, fell over on his side. Tlie fall of the two monsters seemed to 
shake the very earth. The five remaining elephants now broke into a shrill 
trumpeting, and started off for the river at a full trot. Though the huntei*s 
sent another volley of balls after them, they succeeded in crossing the river, 
and disappeared in the forest on the o})posite side. 

Oui" travellers were much excited over their success, and hastened forward 
to examine tiie elephants they had slain. The ball from Houston's elephant 
rifle was charged with nitro-glycerine. It liad struck the animal in one of the 
eyes, and had literally torn the head to pieces, causing instant death. The 
other animal had three rifle-balls in him, but there was no sign of a fourth. 
The professor laughingly said that he supposed his sickness had unsteadied his 
hand, and that his was the shot that had missed. As he was too weak to con- 
tinue on foot much longer, he returned to the camp, and sent back several of 
the negroes to get out the tusks of the elephants. The extraction of these was 
a work of some difficulty, but they were at length safely removed, and were 
found to measure three feet in length, with a proportionate thickness. Charlie 
declared they were among the most valuable pieces of ivory he had ever seen, 
and were of great purity. 

'' They bring heap money. Master Hoosey,'' he said to Houston. " Maybe 
you have to use 'em 'fore you get out nigger's country." 

The morning of the 14tli saw the travellers on the river again, and they 
soon reached the rapids of Lusso, where they were obliged once more to unload 
the canoes, and tow them close to the shore to the quieter water below. Start- 
ing again, two hours more of paddling brought them to the cataract of Mam- 
bue. This cataract is divided into four distinct sections. ''The first gives 
a fall of about a foot and a half; the second, which is nearly five hundred 
feet below the first, presents a fall of six feet, quite perpendicular; the third, 
one hundred and ninety feet still lower down, has a drop of about three feet; 
and the last, which has a similar fall of three feet, is three hundred and thirty 
feet distant from the previous one. The falls, therefore, cover an extent of 
ten hundred and fifty feet." 

These falls presented the most serious obstacle our travellers had yet en- 
countered. There was i\4 means of getting the canoes over theni^ and the 
only way of passing them was by dragging the canoes overland. This Ashton 
was determined to accomplish that day. The negroes were at first unwilling 
to make the attempt, although the day's voyage had been but a short one; yet 
by promising them a liberal reward, Ashton succeeded in inducing them to 
undertake the task. It was a difficult one, and the young Americans turned to 
and assisted the blacks with a heartiness that })ut the latter on their mettle. It 
required four hours to get the boats into the smooth water below, but the task 



ox Tin-: ZAMii /■://. 



257 




i 



was accomplished at last, and tlieii the party went into camp for the night 
below the falls. 

They were off again by half-past six o'clock on the morning of the 15th, 



17 



258 ^^^'^^ Yoi'sa FOLKS j\ Africa. 

and soon atlcr floated over some small rapids, which were immediately suc- 
ceeded by others that were liii^lily dangerous. x\s the boats entered tlie rapids, 
several hippopotami appeared in the water below, right in their track. The 
boatmen, however, with great dexterity, managed to avoid both the rocks and 
the formidable animals, and the rapids were soon cleared. * Within the next 
hour two more rai)ids, one of them of considerable extent, were passed, and 
then there rose on the air a loud rumbling sound like distant thunder. Tliis 
caused Ashton to apprehend the })resence of some great cataract, and he looked 
about for a convenient place at which to reach the shore; but a glance showed 
him that a landing woidd be impossible. On both sides rose up perpendicular 
masses of black basalt, with not room for even a goat to pass between them 
and the water. There was nothing to do but to go on with the swift current. 
In less than an hour six rapids of triHing inequality were passed, and at a 
little after nine Ashton saw at some distance before him a fall of fully three 
feet. The w^aters were rushing over it in masses of foam, and a loud roar rose 
from the gulf below. The shore was now more depressed, and admitted of a 
landing on the right bank; and Ashton, seeing the danger ahead, ordered his 
boatmen to make tor the river bank, and at the same time shouted to Houston, 
who was in the next canoe, — 

" Pass the word to make for the right bank! There's a large fall ahead!" 
Houston obeyed the order, and the other canoes which were closer in shore 
than the first two at once turned towards the bank, which they succeeded in 
reaching. Not so with the boats of Ashton and Houston, however. The 
furious current baffled all their efforts to reach the shore, and swept them along 
with frightful rapidity towards the fldl. The efforts of the oarsmen to resist 
the current caused both canoes to lose their steerage, and to swing around 
broadside to the stream, and in this position they sped onward towards the 
cataract. The boatmen, with a gesture of despair, shipped their oars and 
seated themselves in the canoes to await what seemed certain destruction. 
Ashton and Houston were silent, and both were convinced that the boats would 
never clear the fall in safety. The seconds seemed like hours to them, and in 
dumb despair they watched their canoes sweep downward to the abyss. A cry 
of horror was heard from their companions who had gained the shore, and the 
next moment the two canoes dashed over the fall, one after the other. They 
fell into the foaming waters below without upsetting, and were whirled on 
down the river by, the raging current. Nothing but their loss of steerage, 
which caused them to swing around broadside to the stream, in which position 
they were carried over the fall, saved the canoes. Had they gone over head- 
foremost, they would have been swamped, and their occupants drowned. The 
escajic of the two boats and their crews was thus providential, and was in no 
wav due to the skill of the oarsmen. 



ox TiiK ZAMiii-y/j. 259 

As soon as they ibiind they were safe, Ashtoii and IIousloii dii-cetcd their 
men to get the boats under steerage again, and make I'oi- tlie right hank. As 
tlie eanoes were lialf full of water, it took them some; time to do this, l)ut at 
length thev sneeeeded in reaehing the shore. Thcsy were drenelied through, 
but were overjoyed at their fortunate escape. Ashton at once despatched 
Charlie along the shore to his companions above the fall to inform them of the 
safety of the two boats and their crews, and to request them to join him as 
soon as possible. This they did in about an hour, towing the canoes by a 
small channel along the shore. The young men were heartily congratulated 
by their companions on their escape, for the latter had given them up as lost 
when they saw them swept over the falls. 

After a rest of an hour the voyage was resumed, and during the remainder 
of the day seven more rapids, of greater or less extent, were passed, some not 
without great danger. By two o'clock in the afternoon they reached the rapids 
above the cataract of Catima-Moriro, or ^' The Fire Extinguisher,'^ where they 
^vent into camp. The adventures of the day had been so exciting, and the 
men were so thoroughly worn out, that Ashton decided not to attempt to pass 
the cataract until the next day. 

On the 16th the boats were carried around the falls, which are the last of 
the cataracts of the Upper Zambezi. From that point to the rapids which 
precede the great falls of Mozi-oa-Tuuia, the navigation of the river is unob- 
structed. Below Catima-Moriro, the character of the country along the river 
changed, and to the high walls of black rock, succeeded extensive plains of 
sand on either hand. Many islands were passed, but these were mere cane- 
brakes. Late in the afternoon the party landed on the left bank, and passed 
the night there. They started again the next morning, halting for the night 
near the village of Catengo, and continuing their journey on the 18th camped 
in the afternoon near the village of Quisseque, or Chicheque. 

Starting again on the 19th, an hour's paddling brought the boats to Quis- 
seque. Ashton decided not to ask quarters in the village, but ordered the 
boats to a small island in the neighborhood, where the party went into camp. 
Sufficient cane and foliage was found on the island to enable the negroes to 
construct four huts; and thus, for the first time in many days, our travellers 
had a shelter over them. 

The camp completed, Ashton despatched Charlie in one of the canoes to 
inform the native chief of Quisseque of their arrival, and to request him to 
sell them food. Charlie soon returned with the announcement that the chief 
would visit the white strangers that day, and as they had come direct from his 
king, would sell them provisions. 

Charlie brought with him a strange negro, who was at once recognized by 
the professor as a native of the Orange country. The man spoke Sesuto, and 



2G0 



OUR YOCya FOLKS IX A lUlCA. 



bv tlio aid of Charlie, to wlioso knowledge of that hingua;^e w(; have before 
referred, our travellers were enabled to carry on a conversation with liiin. To 
their irreat deliirlit he informed them that he was the servant of the missionary 
thev were seeking, and that he was waitin<^ at Quisseque for the answer of 
Kini; Lobossi to his master's application for permission to enter his territories. 
He was delighted to hear that the ^'Englishmen," as he called the professor 




THE CAMP NEAR QUISSEQUE. 



and his companions, were going to seek his master, and declared they would 
find him one of the best men in the world. The missionary was not an Eng- 
lishman, he said, but a Frenchman. His own name, he stated, in reply to a 
question from Ashton, was Eliazar. 

While our travellers were conversing with Eliazar, the chief of Quisseque 
arrived at the camp. His name was Carimuque, and he was known as one of 
the bravest warriors in the service of King Lobossi. Professor Moreton in- 
formed him that he and his companions were anxious to continue their journey 
without delay, and urged him to send them what food he could that very day. 
This he |)romised to .do, and during the afternoon kept his word, sending in 
what amounted to about two days' scanty supply of provisions for the men. 
He soon returned to his village, taking the negro Eliazar back with him. 

Later in the day he came to the camp again, and, asking for the professor, 
told him that the envoys he had sent to King Lobossi with the request of the 
missionary to enter the Lui country, had just arrived with the king's answer, 
which, our readers will remember, had been decided upon before the departure 
of our travellers from the Luina capital. The royal answer, as repeated by 



o.v 77/ y; zAMiiiizi. 201 

the chief to tlio })r()lVss()r, was ;i remarkable piece of diplomacy. It had been 
dictated by Gambclla, and neither absolutely granted nor refused the desired 
permission. It expressed groat })leasure at learning that the missionary had 
arrived in the country, but stated that, owing to the existence of war in the 
kingdom and the want of accommodations which the city of liiahii adbrded, 
owing to its being a city so recently constructed, it was not advisal)le tor him 
to proceed any farther. The king, therefore, requested him to delay his inten- 
tion until another year, when he might return and renew his application. 
Carimu(|ue added to the professor that he had received positive -orders from 
the king not to funn'sh the missionary Avith the means of pursuing his journey 
nortinvardi?. 

''You may tell the missionary this," he said; ''but he must come to Quis- 
seque to receive the king's answer in due form." 

On the morning of the 20th our travellers were on the river again, and 
before noon they reached the mouth of the Machilla, This stream flowed 
through a vast plain, in which the occupants of the canoes could see many 
btiffaloes, zebras, and antelopes li razing. Never in their lives had the professor 
and his companions seen so much game at one time; but as they were anxious 
to push on, they made no effort to secure any. Towards five o'clock they 
camped uj^on the bank of the Zambezi. A search was at once made for wood 
with which to kindle a fire, but none was to be found. The prospect of having 
to go supperless was rapidly becoming a certainty, when Charlie spied an old 
tree floating down the river. The boats were sent out for it, and it was towed 
ashore, where it furnished material for a fire, which was soon sending its 
ruddy light through the camp. 

The next day, the 21st of September, was their last on the river. They 
started at an early hour, and, after paddling for five houcs, reached the head 
of a rapid of considerable size, the first of a chain which terminates in the 
cataract of Mozi-oa-Tunia, the Great Falls of the Zambezi. A landing was 
at once made on the right bank of the river, and the canoes were unloaded, 
and concealed by the boatmen in the thick grass. The loads were then 
assigned to the negroes, even Charlie and Mombee being compelled to carry 
their share, and the party set ofl* across the country for the village of Emba- 
rira, which was reached after a march of six miles. 

The party were well received by the chief of Embarira, a village of the 
Macalacas, situated on the Cuando River, near its mouth, the sources of which 
river our travellers had visited and examined in June. Two houses in the 
village were assigned the party, one for the whites, and the other for the 
blacks. The chief informed the professor that a white man, who was neither 
a missionary nor a trader, was encamped opposite the village, on the other side 
of the Cuando. This news greatly astonished our travellers, and many were 



262 



OUR VOVSG FOLKS IX AFRICA. 



their conjectures as to the character and nationality of the white stranger. 
The chief also told them that the camp of the French missionary was at 
Lechnma, about fourteen miles to tiie soutiieast of Kmbarira. 

The house assigned our travellers proved anythin*^ but a comfortable habi- 
tation. It was overrun with vermin, and the mosquitoes were so troublesome 
that they were forced to quit the hut and })ass the night in the open air. 

The next morning the professor despatched a messenger to Lechuma with 
a note to the missionary, telling him of their arrival and requesting him to 




TlIK LAST BOAT UVKK laE CUANDO. 



visit them as soon as possible. Immediately after breakfast, the work of 
payini;- the negro boatmen their wages began. They were given in full all 
that had been promised them, and to the pay of each the professor added a 
slight present as a reward for their good conduct. The men were at first well 
satisfied with their pay, but, in about an hour later, came to Ashton and 
declared that they wanted more, as they had a long journey back home. After 
a little questioning, the young man found that they had been prompted to 



ON Tin: ZAMHKZI. 263 

make tliis denuiiul by the cliicl* oC the village, wlio liad already hecoiiie 
covetous of the goods of" the strangers. Ashtoii lirinly refused to submit to 
the claim of the blacks, and sent them away with the threat that if they 
sought his presence again he would have his own men seize and flog them. 
He also told them if they did not start on their homeward journey that very 
day, he would ciuise King I^obossi to be informed of their conduct. This last 
threat had the desired etfeet, and the boatmen promised to set out at once, 
begging Ashton not to re[)ort them to the king, as it was all the fault of the 
chief. 

Ashton soon after sought an interview with the chief, and, thinking it 
better not to mention his knowledge of the latter's bad faith, simply requested 
him to furnish him with a boat, in order that he might go over and see the 
white man on the other side of the Cuando. The chief replied sulkily that he 
had no boat, but, upon Ashton offering him a few charges of gunpowder, agreed 
to send one of the negroes over the river with a message to the white man. 
He would not consent, however, to send Ashton or any of his companions 
across. As this was the best that coidd be done, the young man wrote a note 
to the stranger, and entrusted it to Charlie, who was allowed by the chief to 
use a miserable little cockle-shell of a canoe, which seemed hardly fit to carry 
him over the river. 

In a couple of hours Charlie returned, bringing with him an Englishman 
of about twenty-eight or thirty years, short, thick set, and powerfully built. 
He wore a coarse linen shirt, the unbuttoned collar of which showed a strong, 
massive throat, and his sleeves, which w^re rolled up, displayed a pair of 
muscular arms, burned brown by the African sun. He wore a straw hat, and 
trousers of ordinary material, which were secured about the waist by a belt, 
into which were thrust a revolver and a bowie knife. He advanced tow^ards 
our travellers, who moved quickly to meet him, and held out both hands. 

"Who are you?'' he asked, laughing as he spoke, "and where do you 
come from ? Your man would tell me nothing, except that you wanted to see 
me." 

In a few words the professor explained to him who they were, and gave 
him a general idea of their journey across the continent. -. 

" It is wonderful !" exclaimed the strans^er. " Who would have thouji^ht 
of a party of youngsters making such a journey ! However, you American- 
seem equal to anything I" 

He then told them that his name was Harris, and that he and a companion, 
Dr. Edward Humphreys, were engaged in a zoological expedition. The 
doctor, he said, was a distinguished scientist in England, and he had accom- 
panied him as his companion and prepared his specimens. 

"How many are in your party?" he asked. 



264 ^^^ YOUNG FOLKS JN AFRICA. 

"Twelve, white and black/' replied the professor. 

" Are your negroes trustworthy ?" 

" Entirely so." 

" Then you had better cross the river and camp beside us/' said Mr. Harris. 
" The people of this village are a bad lot, and the chief is the greatest rogue 
of all. They will certainly give you trouble if you remain here." 

"We have no means of crossing the river," said Ashton. "The chief tells 
me they have no boats." 

" They have plenty of them/' replied Mr. Harris. " We have two of our 
own, fortunately, which are at your service. Let one of your men go back 
with me, and he and I will bring the boats over, and in two or three trips you 
can cross your whole party with your traps." 

Our travellers at once gratefully accepted the kind offer of the Englishman, 
and Mombee was selected to return with him and bring over one of the boats, 
it being necessary to retain Charlie, as he was their only interpreter. Mr. 
Morris and Mombee then set off, and the men were ordered to get their loads, 
which had been considerably lightened by the consumption of provisions and 
the payment to the boatmen, in readiness to be transported to the river shore. 

The chief of the village, who had watched the interview between the white 
men from a distance, now came forward and demanded to know what the 
"Englishman" wanted. Ashton explained to him, through Charlie, that 
they had found friends in the Englishman and his companion on the other 
side of the Cuando, and that they were about to cross the river and encamp 
with them. The chief declared that this was impossible, as no boats were to 
be had; but Ashton assured him they would find the boats they needed. The 
chief then said that he felt hurt at the withdrawal of his white visitors from 
his village. Ashton thanked him for his hospitality, but said they preferred 
to be with their own people on the other side of the river. The chief then 
changed his tone, and insolently declared that if the party attempted to cross 
the river he would prevent it. 

"Listen to me, Mocumba/' said Ashton, addressing the chief by his name. 
" We owe you nothing, and do not even ask you for boats to cross the river. 
We are free to go where we like, and you will not dare to molest us. We are 
the friends of King Lobossi, and are travelling under his protection. Attempt 
to harm us, and he will punish you for it." 

" Lobossi is far away," said the chief, with an insolent laugh. " He will 
never hear of Avhat is done here." 

"But Carimuque will hear of it," said Ashton. "He has the king's orders. 
" If I send to him, he will come here and burn your village." 

"I am not afraid of him/' said Mocumba, boastingly. 

"Very good/' exclaimed Ashton, looking at him fixedly, and speaking 



Oy THE ZAMBEZI. 265 

sternly. "We do not depend upon either Lobossi or Cariinn(|ue for our pro- 
tection. We are twelve resolute and well-armed men, and more than a match 
for your whole village. Attempt to interfere with our crossing the river, and 
we will destroy you." 

Then turning to tlie men, he told them to carry the loads to the river shore. 
At the same time he drew his revolver, and pointing it at the chief's head, 
ordered liim to accompany the party, on pain of instant death. 

"You must not hurt him, Ashton," said the professor, earnestly. 

"I have no intention of doing so," replied the young man. "I shall only 
hold him as a hostage for our safety until the last boat has left this side." 

The entire party now^ moved down to the river shore, taking with them 
the trembling chief. As they reached the water, they saw the canoes, manned 
by Mr. Harris and Mombee, leave the opposite shore. They were soon on the 
Embarira side, and then the work of passing the river began. It required 
several trips and a couple of hours to accomplish this. Ashton, Houston, and 
Charlie remained on -guard over the chief until the rest of the party and all 
the^goods were safe on the opposite shore. They then set off in the last boat. 
Before doing so, however, Ashton told the chief that he and his party desired 
to be on good terms with him, but were ready at any moment to meet and 
repel an attack. He told him, if he would come over to their camp the next 
day, he would make him a present in return for his hospitality to them. 

Upon arriving on the opposite shore of the Cuando, our travellers were 
warmly welcomed by Dr. Humphreys, a tall, fine-looking man, with a long 
beard and white hair, and a face prematurely old from suffering and labor. 
Setting the negroes to work to construct a camp, the professor and his com- 
panions joined the English gentlemen, and were soon engaged in conversation 
with them. Dr. Humphreys stated that the objects of their journey to the 
Cuando having been accomplished, he and his companion were making their 
preparations to leave for another part of the country, when they heard of the 
arrival of the Americans at Embarira. They listened with wonder to the pro- 
fessor's account of the march of his party across the continent. Dr. Humphreys 
declaring, repeatedly, that without the evidence before his eyes he would not 
have believed it possible for the young men to accomplish such an undertaking. 
He complimented them highly upon their courage and endurance, and assured 
the professor that his skill in preserving the health of his party through so 
trying a journey w-as beyond all praise. 

Upon repairing to their own quarters for the night the professor and his 
companions began to discuss the prospect before them. Their stores were now 
so greatly reduced that it would not be possible for them to carry out their 
original plan, which was to march overland to the Zumbo, and thence descend 
the Zambezi to the Portuo^uese settlements at its mouth. All as^reed that the 



2G6 ^^'^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

only thing left them now was to endeavor to reach the Dutch and English 
settlements in the Transvaal, from which they could proceed to Port Natal, 
from which there was regular steamer communication with Europe. 

The morning of the 23d brought the chief of Embarira to the camp to 
receive the present promised him by Ashton. He expressed great regret for 
his conduct on the previous day, and said a bad spirit had made him do so. 
Ashton accepted his apology, and gave him the promised present. Mocumba 
then begged that he would not let either King Lobossi or Carimuque know 
what had happened, as he did not want to get into trouble with them. 
Ashton told him that on leaving the Cuando he and his party would pass by 
Embarira, and that if they were not molested they would forget all that had 
happened, but that if trouble arose they would defend themselves, and would 
also send word to Lobossi and the chief of Quisseque of the matter. With 
this promise Mocumba was well satisfied, and soon took his departure. 

About noon the French missionary reached the camp, having been sent 
over the river by Mocumba, with whom he had succeeded in establishing 
friendly relations upon his arrival in the country. He was the Reverend 
Pierre Gaillard, who had been sent out to Africa by a missionary society of 
France, to take charge of the Leribe mission in the Basuto land. He had 
labored there successfully for several years, and, being anxious to carry his 
work farther, had sent to Lialui to ask the permission of King Lobossi to enter 
the Lui country, with what result the reader already knows. He was a little 
over forty, and was well browned by the African sun, under which he had 
lived so long. He spoke English fluently, and was also acquainted with the 
language of the country. He was very cordial in his greetings of the 
travellers, and was soon made acquainted with their adventures. He was 
much interested in their account of their adventures in the Baroze, and was 
greatly disappointed when Professor Moreton told him of the result of his 
application to King Lobossi. He said, however, that he hoped to persuade 
Carimuque to allow him to pass above Quisseque, and w^ould leave for that 
place the next day, to receive the king's answer. He then asked the plans of 
the professor and his companions for the future, and upon being told of their 
intention to try to reach the Transvaal, he advised them to go first to Lechuma, 
where his own camp was located, and where he had left his wife and her sister, 
under the protection of his faithful blacks. At Lechuma, he said, they would 
find the agency of an English trading firm, with which they might be able to 
make arrangements that would help them on the rest of their journey. He 
would give them a letter of introduction to Madame Gaillard, and could assure 
them of a hospitable reception at his own camp. As for himself, he should 
start for Quisseque early the next morning, and, whatever the result of his 
efforts, would return to Lechuma in about ten days. During the conversation 



ON THE ZAMBEZI. 



267 



which followed, Mr. Gaillard gave our travellers imicli valuable information 
concerning the country through which their journey to the coast would lie. 
It was determined by the professor and his companions to recross the 




MR. AND MRS. GAILLARD. 



Cuando at an early hour the next morning, and set out at once for Lechuma. 
Mr. Gaillard would cross the river with them, and then proceed to Quisseque. 
Accordingly, at a little after sunrise on the 24th of September, our travel- 
lers took leave of their good friends, Dr. Humphreys and Mr. Harris, who 
placed their boats at their disposal, and crossed over to Embarira, accompanied 



268 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

by Mr. Gaillard. In parting with him they agreed to await his return at 
Lechuma, when tliey wouhl determine upon their future movements. Mo- 
cumba, who met the party on hmding, supplied Asliton with several carriers, 
which greatly lightened the loads of Charlie, Momhee, and the five Benguela 
men, who were now the only means of transporting the goods remaining to the 
party. 

Embarira was left about eight o'clock. The day was intensely hot, the 
road very sandy, and the progress of the party was painful and slow. The 
ground began to rise as it receded from the river, and the progress of the trav- 
ellers was up hill all the way. They suffered intensely from tliirst, but after 
about four hours' steady marching reached a clear spring of cool water, in the 
shade of a little grove, where they slaked their burning thirst. Two hours 
more brought them to Lechuma. 

The place was situated in a narrow valley, running due north and south, 
and shut in by richly wooded mountains of low elevation. On the east side 
of the valley our travellers saw a collection of huts, which, they subsequently 
learned, formed the establishment of Mr. Phillips, an English trader. Nearly 
opposite were two abandoned hamlets, which were occupied as a trading-post 
by Mr. George Westbeech. A little to the north of Mr. Westbeech's factory 
stood a strong stockade, enclosing a circular space about one hundred feet in 
diameter. Within this were a thatched cottage, a hut built after the manner 
of the country, and two travelling wagons. This was the camp of Mr. Gail- 
lard, the missionary. 

Immediately upon arriving, Ashton set the Benguela men and Charlie 
and Mombee to work to collect material for a camp, and by nightfall a strong 
stockade and four huts had been erected for the accommodation of the party 
within a few hundred yards of Mr. Gaillard's camp. 

While the work Avas in progress. Professor Moreton and his young com- 
panions went to the missionary's camp to call upon Madame Gaillard and her 
sister. Entering the stockade, they found the two ladies sitting at the door 
of the cottage, engaged in sewing. The sensations of the travellers at finding 
themselves once more in ladies' society were curious and hard to describe. 
Their travel-worn and rough appearance contrasted strangely with the neatness 
of the ladies and their surroundings, and for a moment they hesitated to 
approach. Madame Gaillard, however, had been expecting them, and the 
cordial reception given them by herself and her sister soon put them at their 
ease. She said she had been looking for them all the afternoon, as her hus- 
band had told her he would endeavor to persuade them to go on to Lechuma 
that day. She and her sister had, therefore, deferred their evening meal until 
the arrival of the travellers, whom she now invited to share it with them. 
The invitation was accepted, and for the first time since leaving St. Paul de 



ON THE ZAMBEZI. 



269 



Loanda our travellers sat down to a table graced by the presence of ladles. A 
pleasant evening was spent with them, and tliea the professor and the young 
men went back to their own camp. 

The next morning Professor Aloreton and Ashton made a visit to Mr. 
Westbeech, ^Yho told them he was greatly surprised by their arrival, as he had 
heard nothing of their being in the country. He was much interested in their 
story, and declared it the most remarkable narrative he had heard during the 
many years he had spent in Africa. He was a man of good education and 




ENCAMPMENT OF THE GAILLARD FAMILY IN LECHUJfA. 



generous impulses, though he was a thorough trader when it came to a question 
of bargain. He readily purchased the four elephant tusks and the few extra 
guns they had still with them, paying them in provisions, but buying them at 
his own price. 

Ashton now astonished- his companions by producing a twenty-pound note 
of the Bank of England, and asking Mr. Westbeech to give him change for 
it. The trader laughingly assured him that he had no money. 



270 ^^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

"Money would be of no use to me here/' he said, '^as all my transactions 
are merely matters of barter. Since you are responsible, however, I will let 
you have what you want, as far as I can furnish it, taking your notes for the 
same. These notes I will send to my correspondent at Shoshong, where 
English money is used, and you can pay them to him.'' 

This arrangement was satisfactory to all parties, and our travellers felt that 
Ashton's foresight had smoothed away one of the greatest difficulties in the 
remainder of their journey. The young man told the professor, that, knowing 
they would want money should they succeed in reaching the East Coast, he had 
placed some Bank of England notes in a water-proof belt which he had worn 
under his clothing through the whole journey, not caring to mention the matter 
until there was occasion to use the money. 

Mr. Westbeech expressed his willingness to aid the party to continue their 
journey. He told "them that one of the wagons of his firm was expected to 
arrive from Shoshong in about ten days with a supply of goods. He intended 
to send it back immediately to bring up more, but as he had very little to send 
by it, it would go back nearly empty. It was large enough to hold their entire 
party, and such goods as they had left, and he would place it at their disposal 
for a nominal sum. The offer was gladly accepted, and an agreement was 
drawn up by Mr. AYestbeech, and signed by himself and Professor Moreton. 

" Fortune seems to favor us at last, professor," said Ashton. 

"You deserve her favors for the pluck you have all shown in your journey 
across this abominable continent," said Mr. Westbeech. " Your arrival here 
is timely, to say the least. Had you come ten or twelve days later, it would 
not have been in my power to serve you. You must then have made the 
journey to Shoshong on foot, and you would have found it more trying than 
any of your past experiences. You will have to traverse a terrible country, 
and even ^vith the wagon it will take you nearly a month to reach Shoshong." 

The time passed by our travellers at Lechuma was the pleasantest rest they 
had yet enjoyed in Africa. Tiieir minds were free from the anxiety which had 
hitherto kept them constantly on the strain; they were well supplied with 
provisions ; their quarters were comfortable ; and the society of the ladies of 
the neighboring camp afforded them a pleasure to which they had long been 
strangers. Each day some of the party went out in search of game, and they 
generally succeeded in obtaining enough not only to supply their own wants, 
but also to furnish the table of their kind friends, — the French ladies. Twelve 
days were spent in this pleasant manner, and on the 6th of October the wagon 
from Shoshong arrived at Mr. Westbeech's establishment. On the same day 
Mr. Gaillard returned from Quisseque. He was alone, however, his faithful 
servant, Eliazar, having fallen a victim to the fever at that place. 

Mr. Gaillard was much pleased to learn of the arrangement made between 



ON THE ZAMBEZI. 



271 



our travellers and Mr. Westbeech respecting the wagon. He told the former 
that, since his efforts to enter the dominions of King Lobossi had failed, he 
had determined to return to Shoshong to replenish his supplies before starting 
for another field of labor. They could travel together as far as that place, 
and the journey would thus be pleasanter to all parties. 

One thing, however, stood in the way of this arrangement. Professor 
Moreton and his companions were anxious to visit the Great Falls of the 




INTERIOR OF MR. GAILLARD S CAMP IX LECHUMA. 



Zambezi. They were too near to them to pass them by, and the visit would 
consume at least ten or twelve days. Mr. Gaillard was anxious to move on to 
Patamatenga as soon as possible, as his oxen were suffering from the attacks of 
the tsee-tsee fly. 

Upon consulting with Mr. Westbeech, that gentleman informed Professor 
Moreton that his wagon would not be ready to start for Shoshong for a week. 
He advised the Americans to accompany the missionary as far as Guejuma's 
kraal, about three days' march to the southeast, and begin their journey to the 



272 ^UR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

falls from that point. Mr. Gail lard could then move on to Patamatenga, at 
which place the travellers could rejoin him on their return. The trader's 
wagon could start at the appointed time^ proceed to Patamatenga, and there 
await the arrival of the party from the falls. 

This arrangement being satisfactory to all parties, Ashton instructed Mr. 
Westbeech to provide the wagon with provisions for a month, and to furnish 
them with supplies sufficient for the journey to the falls and back to Patama- 
tenga. The travellers decided to take with them only their arms, such clothing 
as had been left to them, the scientific instruments, and the provisions for the 
journey. Mr. Gaillard offered to transport the latter in his wagons, and thus 
save the blacks the fatigue of carrying them. 

There was nothing now to detain the party, and it was decided that they 
should start with the missionary the next morning. Accordingly, on the 7th 
of October, the two camps were broken up. Mr. Westbeech bade a hearty 
farewell to the occupants of both camps, and assured Professor Moreton and 
Ashton that they could depend upon his carrying out his part of the arrange- 
ment to the letter. About ten o'clock the journey was begun, and Lechuma 
Avas soon left behind. The route for the better part of the entire way lay 
through the forest, and often the road was found to be obstructed by fallen 
trees or loose rocks. These had to be removed before the wagons could pass, 
and the work was difficult and fatiguing. Charlie and the Benguela men, 
assisted by the blacks in Mr. Gaillard's service, worked manfully at the task 
of removing the obstacles. The road Avas also very sandy, and the wheels of 
the vehicles sank so deep in the sand that progress was very slow. The ladies, 
of course, rode in one of the wagons ; but as the professor and his companions 
had to make the journey on foot, Mr. Gaillard refused to avail himself of the 
comfort of the vehicles, and marched by the side of his friends. Very little 
water was met with, and the oxen which drew the heavy vehicles suffered 
greatly from thirst. A good supply of water having been laid in at Lechuma, 
the members of the party were not subjected to this inconvenience. 

At last, on the 10th of October, the travellers reached Guejuma's kraal, a 
wretched place, established by the English traders as a depository for their 
herds, which they cannot keep in Lechuma, owing to the presence of the ter- 
rible tsee-tsee fly. Water was obtained there for the oxen, and a halt was 
made for the night. 

i^s time was now a matter of importance, the professor and his companions 
decided to set out the next mornino- for the ffreat cataract of Mozi-oa-Tunia. 
They were up betimes on the 11th, and the loads, which consisted of the in- 
struments and provisions, were assigned to Charlie, Mombee, and the Benguela 
men. After a hearty breakfast, and a cordial farewell to the missionary and 
his family, our travellers set off in a northeasterly direction. They had no 



ON THE ZAMBEZI. 



273 



guide but ii map, but with this and their compass they did not doubt their 
ability to reacli their point of destination. Their only fear was that they 
might suffer from a scarcity of water. 

The first days of the march passed without anything of interest occurring, 
and on the morning of the 12th our travellers heard, for the first time, a distant 
booming sound, like the reverberation of thunder from the mountain sides. 
All paused and listened intently. 

" It is the roar of the great cataract," said the professor. " The wind is 




THE BURIAL OP ELIAZAR, 



from the north, and everything is so still that we can hear the sound, although 
we are fully two days' march from the falls." 

During the day the party shot a number of partridges, which were very 
abundant in this region, and these furnished an excellent supper. 

The country through which our travellers journeyed for the first two days 
was rugged and stony, but was well wooded. On the 13th they entered a deep 
valley, entirely destitute of trees. 



Huge fragments of rock. 



terminatmg in 



274 <^UR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

pinnacles, rose on either side and at diff'erent points in the valley. A wilder, 
gloomier scene could not be imagined. Towards noon the w^ind suddenly 
shifted to the north-northeast, and a furious storm, which had been gathering 
all morning, burst over the valley. The thick black clouds seemed to swoop 
down to the ground, and poured forth torrents of water, accompanied by the 
most terrific display of lightning the party had ever witnessed. The sharp 
rocky ])innacles attracted the lightning, which darted upon them and dashed 
down their sides. One not far from the party was struck by a fiery bolt, and 
riven in two from top to bottom. A singular feature of the tempest was the 
manner in Avhich the lightning divided itself. A ball of fire would dart from 
the clouds, and when near the ground would separate into several, which 
glanced horizontally from their centre and struck in as many different points. 
This was repeated several times. All the while zigzag flashes of fire played 
about the atmosphere in every direction, until the whole upper air seemed 
ablaze. Never before had the Americans witnessed so sublime and awful a 
spectacle. 

As for the negroes, they were })anic stricken. They dropped their loads 
and threw themselves flat on the ground, where they lay moaning in terror, 
unable to seek shelter from the water which was running over them. But for 
the fact that their loads were securely encased in water-proof coverings, they 
would have been hopelessly ruined. Professor Moreton and his companions 
endeavored to calm the poor fellows, by putting on an appearance of ease 
which they were far from feeling, for they could not conceal from themselves 
that the danger to the whole party was actual and imminent. The storm 
raged for over an hour, and then suddenly ceased, and the travellers, drenched 
through, started on their way once more. They were forced to stop again in 
the afternoon to allow another, but a less severe, rain-storm to pass over. 
Towards five o'clock they arrived at some deserted huts about three; miles 
distant from the falls. The huts were rendered habitable, and a halt was made 
for the night. Bright fires were soon blazing, and by these the travellers dried 
themselves. 

During the night a fresh storm broke over the huts, deluging them with 
water, putting out the fires, and again drenching the party through and 
through. The roar of the thunder was mingled with the hoarse tones of the 
great cataract, and the lightning was violent and continuous. About four in 
the morning the storm passed away as suddenly as it had come. 

The morning of the 14th of October broke clear and beautiful; the clouds 
had vanished, and the sun was out in all his power. The roar of the falls 
was louder, and filled the whole party with a more eager desire than ever to 
gaze upon them. Breakfast was late, owing to the difficulty of making a fire 
with the wet wood, and the day's march was not begun until nine o'clock. 



ON THE ZAMBKZf. 



275 



Guided by the roar of the waters, which gi'cw hauler as they advanced, the 
travellers, about noon, reached the western extremity of tlie great cataract. 

The cataract of Mozi-oa-Tunia (a Sesuto term, meaning "the smoke is 
rising") was first seen by Dr. Livingstone in 1855, and again in 1860, since 
which time it has been visited by many Europeans. Livingstone named it 
the "Victoria Falls," in honor of the Queen of England. It is the subliinest 
cataract in Africa, and perhaps the most remarkable in the world. It is more 
than twice as high as the Falls of Niagara, and possesses many features 
peculiar to itself. Major Serpa Pinto, who visited it, and took accurate 
measurements of it, thus describes the cataract : 

" Mozi-oa-Tunia is neither more nor less than a long trough, a gigantic 
crevasse, an abyss profound and monstrous into which Ihe Zambezi precipitates 




MOZI-OA-TIJMA. 



itself bodily to an extent of nineteen hundred and seventy-eight yards. The 
cleft in the basaltic rocks which form the northern wall of the abyss is per- 
fectly traceable, running east and west. Parallel thereto, another enormous 
wall of basalt, standing upon the same level, and one hundred and ten yards 
distant from it, forms the opposite side of the crevasse. The feet of these 
huge moles of black basalt form a channel through which the river rushes 
after its fall, a channel which is certainly much narrower than the upper 
aperture, but whose width it is impossible to measure. 

" In the southern wall, and about three-fifth parts along it, the rock has 



276 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

been riven asunder, and forms another gigantic chasm, perpendicular to the 
first; which chasm, first taking a westerly curve and subsequently bending 
southwards and then eastwards, receives the river, and conveys it in a capricious 
zigzag through a perfect maze of rocks. 

" The great northern wall of" the cataract over which the water flows is in 
places perfectly vertical, with few or none of those breaks or irregularities that 
one is accustomed to see under such circumstances. 

" The Zambezi, encountering upon its way the crevasse to which we have 
alluded, rushes into it in three grar;d cataracts, because a couple of islands 
which occupy two great spaces in the northern wall divide the stream into three 
separate branches. 

'^ The first cataract is formed by a branch which passes to the south of the 
first island, an island which occupies, in the I'ight angle assumed by the upper 
part of the cleft, the extreme west. This branch or arm consequently precipi- 
tates itself in the confined space open on the western side of the rectangle. It 
is one hundred and ninety-six feet wide and has a perpendicular fall of two 
hundred and sixty-two feet, tumbling into a basin whence the water overflows 
to the bottom of the abyss, there to unite itself to the rest in rapids and cascades 
that are almost invisible, owing to the thick cloud of vapor which envelopes 
the entire foot of the falls. The island which separates that branch of the 
river is covered with the richest vegetation, the leafy shrubs extending to the 
very edge along which the water rushes, and presenting a most marvellous 
prospect. This is the smallest of the falls, but it is the most beautiful, or, 
more correctly speaking, the only one that is really beautiful, for all else at 
Mozi-oa-tunia is sublimely horrible. That enormous gulf, black as is the 
basalt which forms it, dark and dense as is the cloud which enwraps it, would 
have been chosen, if known in biblical times, as an image of the infernal 
regions, a hell of water and darkness, more terrible, perhaps, than the hell of 
fire and light. 

"As if to increase the sensation of horror which is experienced in presence 
of this prodigy of nature, one must risk one's life in order to survey it. To 
survey it thoroughly is impossible; Mozi-oa-tunia forbids such an operation. 

"At times, when peering into the depths through that eternal mist, one 
may perceive a mass of confused shapes, like unto vast and frightful ruins. 
These are peaks of rocks of enormous height, on to which the water dashes 
and becomes at once converted into a cloud of spray, which rolls and tumbles 
about the peaks where it was formed, and will continue to do so as long as the 
water falls and the rocks are there to receive it. 

" Opposite Garden Island, through the medium of a rainbow, concentric to 
another and a fainter one, I could perceive from time to time, as the mist 
slightly shifted, confusedly appear a series of pinnacles, similar to the mina- 



UX THE ZAMBEZI. 



277 




rets and spires of some fantastic cathedral, which shot up, as it were, from out 
the mass of seething waters. 

" Continuing our examination of the cataract, we find that the beginning 



278 ^^'^^' YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

of tlie northern wall, which starts from tlie western cascade, is occupied to an 
extent of some two hundred and eighteen yards by the island I have before 
alluded to, and which confines that branch of the river that constitutes the 
first fall. It is the only point whence the entire wall is visible, simply because 
along that space of two hundred and eighteen yards the vapor does not com- 
pletely conceal the depths. 

" After the first island comes the chief part of the cataract, being the por- 
tion comprised between the above island and Garden Island. I a that spot the 
main body of the water rushes into the abyss in a compact mass, thirteen 
hundred and twelve feet in length; and there, as is natural, we find the 
greatest depth. Then follows Garden Island, Avith a frontage of one hun- 
dred and thirty-two feet to the rift, and afterwards the third fall, composed of 
dozens of falls which occupy the entire s[)ace between Garden Island and the 
eastern extremity of the wall. This third fall must be the most important in 
the rainy season, when the masses of rock which at other times divide the 
stream are concealed, and but one unbroken and enormous cataract meets the 
eye. 

^^ As the water which runs from the two first falls and from part of the 
third near Garden Island rushes eastward, it meets the remainder of the third 
fall coursing west, and the result is a frightful seething whirlpool, whence the 
creamy waters rush, after the mad conflict, into the narrow rocky channel 
before alluded to, and go hissing away through the capricious zigzag chasm. 

'^The islands of the cataracts and the rocks which lie about it are all 
covered with the densest vegetation ; but the green is dark, sad-colored, and 
monotonous, although a clump or two of palms, as they shoot their elegant 
heads above the thickets of evergreens which surround them, do their best to 
break the melancholy aspect of the picture. 

" Never-ending showers of spray descend upon all objects in the proximity 
of the falls, and a ceaseless thunder growls within the abyss. 

" Mozi-oa-tunia cannot be properly either depicted or described. The 
pencil and the pen are alike at fault; and in fact, saving at its western ex- 
tremity, the whole is enveloped in a cloud of vapor, which, perhaps fortunately, 
hides half the awful ness of the scene." 

High above the falls, which were nearly four hundred feet in height, rose a 
dense mass of snow-white vapor, which, after reaching an altitude of about 
eight hundred feet, floated away in a sort of fine rain. 

Our travellers were deeply impressed by tlie sublime scene before them, 
and for a long time regarded it in silence. The first to speak was Charlie, 
who gravely declared that it must be a " very big devil" that lived there, and 
that he hoped they would not fall into his power. The rest of the day was 
spent in examining the falls and viewing them from different points. Late in 



ON THE ZAMliEZI. 275 

the aftcrnooM tJie ])arty witlidrew about a couple of miles back from the cata- 
ract and went into camp. AVhen they sank to sleep that night the last sound 
they heard was the ceaseless roar of the mighty waters. 

The next two days were passed by our travellers at Mozi-oa-tunia, the pro- 
fessor devoting the time to a survey of the falls. The task was not altogether 
an easy one, and was accompanied with no little danger. In order to measure 
the heiglit of the principal fall it was necessary to see the foot of the wall in 
the depths of the abyss. There was but one way to accomplish this, and that 
was for the professor to allow liimself to be lowered over the side of the preci- 
pice on which they stood. In spite of the protests of his companions, Pro- 
fessor Moreton made Charlie and Mombee strip off their garments, which were 
of striped cotton cloth. These he tied together, and so improvised a rope, 
which he wound about his body under the arm-pits. Giving the ends to 
Charlie and Mombee, he told them to hold on tight, and then, taking his sex- 
tant in his hand, walked out coolly to the very edge of the cliff. Bracing his 
feet upon the rock, he leaned far over the side, until he could see the foot of 
the opposite wall, and quietly proceeded to determine the angle with the base 
he had already established. The young men looked on with terror, not daring 
to speak, scarcely to breathe, 'while the two faithful blacks trembled violently. 
The professor seemed suspended in mid-air. The slightest loosening of their 
hold by the negroes, the parting of the cloth that held him, or even the slip 
of a foot, would send the adventurous explorer headlong to certain death. The 
observation occupied but a few minutes, but these seemed like hours to the spec- 
tators; and when the professor called to the blacks to pull him back, and was 
once more safe on solid ground, a sigh of relief went up from the whole party. 

On the 1 6th the travellers spent the morning in taking a last look at the 
falls, and at mid-day set out to rejoin the missionary and his family at Patama- 
tenga. This was a much more difficult undertaking than the journey to the 
falls. The latter it had been easy to find, as their roar made their locality 
known afar; but the task before our travellers now was to find a small kraal 
or settlement not laid down on the map, and which they might easily pass by 
without knowing it. Still the professor was convinced that Patamatenga kraal 
lay due south of the falls, and in that direction he resolved to direct the course 
of the party, without deviating from it in the least; therefore the march was 
directed to the place where the party had found the abandoned huts on the 
13th, and in these the night was passed. 

The next morning the journey was resumed, the course being due south. 
The route lay over a broken and stony country and through a narrow and 
desolate valley, with not a tree nor a shrub in sight. The sky was overcast, 
and the gathering clouds betokened the coming of bad weather. Several lions 
were seen during the day; but as their pursuit would have involved too much 



'\ll 



280 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



I iil 




PROFESSOR MORETON MEASURING THE FAiLS. 



delay, no effort was made to molest them. At the point where the halt for the 
night was made no wood was to be had ; but the negroes, after a long search, 



ON THE ZAMBEZI. ^ 281 

succeeded in finding some dry branches, wliich they brought into the camp. 
These, upon being split, were found to be full of enormous scorpions, which 
scampered away in fright as tlie blows of the hatchet laid open their dwellings. 
During the night a severe rain-storm broke over the camp, and lasted till near 
morning, wetting the travellers through and damaging the provisions, which 
had been imprudently left exposed. Upon examination, the next morning. 
Professor Moreton found that they had but two days' scanty supply left. They 
might be three days yet on the road ; and should game prove as scarce as it 
had been throughout the march, there Avas a certainty of having to travel one 
day at least on empty stomachs. 

The march on the 18th was through a rugged and stony district, and pro- 
gress was necessarily slow. After five hours' steady walking a little pool of 
water was reached, by the side of which the party went into camp. On the 
19th they had a seven hours' tramp across a sandy plain covered with shrubs 
and tall grass. Not a vestige of water had been seen during the day ; and 
when the part}^ came to a halt, late in the afternoon, it was with the belief that 
the thirst from which all were suffering greatly would continue to torment 
them during the night. As the men laid down their loads there was suddenly 
heard from the branches of a tree close by the soft cooing of a flock of African 
doves. Charlie's face brightened at once. 

"Hear that, Master 'Fessor !" he exclaimed. "Water close by. Doves 
come at sundown to drink. Stay there till morning. Me go look for water." 

With this he started off in the direction of the sound. He returned in 
half an hour, and reported that he had found a small spring of good water 
about half a mile farther on. The loads were lifted with a will ; and the party, 
setting out at a rapid pace, were soon at the spring, beside which they en- 
camped. There was an abundance of water for their wants ; but when supper 
was served, it was necessary to put the whole party on half rations, in order 
that there might be food enough left for a scanty breakfast the next morning. 

They were on the road again very early on the 20th, and almost immedi- 
ately plunged into a jungle, through which they were half an hour in making 
their way. Upon clearing it they came upon a large brook running swiftly 
over its stony bed ; and beside it stood a well-built kraal, surrounded by a 
strong stockade, above wliich rose the roofs of several houses built after the 
European plan. This Avas Patamatenga, close to which they had camped on 
the previous night in ignorance of its whereabouts. 

An Englishman came down to the brook to meet them as they were cross- 
ing, and welcomed them cordially. He informed the travellers that the mis- 
sionary and his family had gone on to Daca, five hours distant, and that Mr. 
Westbeech's wagon had passed by Patamatenga only an hour before. He 
would not hear of the professor and his companions going on to Daca that 



282 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



day, and persuaded them to spend it with him, and rest after their long tramp. 
He then led them into the kraal, and, giving orders to his servants to provide 
for the blacks, invited the Americans into his house, where they were soon 
seated at a well-spread table. 

The day was passed pleasantly with the hospitable owner of the kraal, and 
on the morning of the 21st of October the party set out for Daca, where they 
found Mr. Gaillard and his family, and the wagon sent by Mr. Westbeech 
awaiting them. 



CHAPTER XL 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



AS there ^yas nothing to detain them at Daca, our travellers readily consented 
to Mr. Gaillard's proposal to start on their journey to Shoshong the 
next morning. Upon examining the wagon sent by Mr. Westbeech, Ashton 
found that the trader had not only filled his order for provisions to the letter, 
but had generously added a number of articles which he begged the young 
man, in a note sent by the driver of the wagon, to accept, with his compliments. 

The wagon to be used by our travellers and their men was much larger 
than those of the missionary's party, and was drawn by twelve stout oxen. 
It afforded ample room for the goods of Mr. Westbeech, the property of the 
professor and his companions, and for the members of the expedition, who 
found places on the skins and blankets laid over the "" freight,'' which was 
securely packed in the bottom of the vehicle. 

Ten o'clock on the morning of the 22d of October saw the travellers on 
their way. The first eight days of the journey were spent in traversing a 
monotonous, uninteresting country, in which water was found only at long 
intervals. The oxen suffered greatly from thirst, and it was necessary to make 
frequent halts in order to rest them. The weather was warm and enervating, 
and our travellers experienced more discomfort from the heat than during any 
previous portion of their sojourn in Africa. The soil was sandy, and the oxen 
found it hard to pull the heavy wagons along the deep road. On the 29th a 
forest of gigantic trees was crossed, and it was often necessary to clear the road 
of fallen timber and the thick undergrowth which obstructed it. On the 30th 
the travellers entered the dry, sandy plain of the Kalahari, the terrible Sahara 
of Southern Africa. This desert, which stretched away far to the southward, 
was crossed first by Dr. Livingstone, with whose description of it the professor 
and Ashton were familiar. They agreed that the great explorer had in no 
wise exaggerated its terrors. It was covered with a thick growth of stunted 
thorn-trees, through which it was often necessary for the negroes to cut a way 
for the wagons, foot by foot, with their hatchets ; and frequently, for as much 
as ten miles at a time, the sand was twenty inches deep, rendering it impossible 

283 



284 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



to travel iiiiich more than a mile au hour. Water was not to be found, and 
both tlie oxen and the travellers suffered severely from thirst. On the 1st of 
November the dry bed of a river was crossed. The banks were so steep that 
it was with the greatest difficulty the oxen could drag the wagons up the 
opposite side. When they had succeeded in doing so, the camp was formed, 
and a search for water resulted in finding several pools of it still remaining in 
the bed of the river. All hastened to them eagerly, but only to meet with a 
terrible disappointment, — the water in the pools, so clear and tempting to the 
eye, was as salt as if it had been drawn from the sea. A further search was 




CROSSING Tin-: "GREAT SALT PAN. 



rewarded by finding seven Avells of considerable depth, not far from the camp, 
containing a plentiful supply of clear, sweet water. As soon as the travellers 
had slaked their thirst, the negroes were set to drawing water for the cattle, 
which were so sadly in need of it. 

The dry river bed was that of the Nata, which along the lower part of its 
course is called the Chua. In the rainy season it is quite a good-sized stream. 
The southern portion of the Desert of Kalahari is better watered than the 
northern, and is frequented by a nomadic population, called the Massaruas, to 
whom the English settlers in Southern Africa apply the general term ^^ Bush- 
men." They are exceedingly black, with projecting teeth, very bright eyes, and 
but little hair. They are savages, and are almost as low down in the scale of 
humanity as the Mucassequeres, with whom our travellers, it will be remem- 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



285 



bered, met near the upper Ciuindo. Some of them came into the camp soon 
after it was pitched, and Asliton gave them a little powder and tobacco, with 
which they were highly delighted. They gave very discouraging accounts of 
the scarcity of water along the route the party intended to pursue. During 
the next three days, the travellers were greatly annoyed by parties of Massa- 
ruas, who followed them, begging for various articles. They ceased their 
importunities at once when spoken to sternly, and at the least gesture indicating 
resentment would take to their heels. 

On the 7th of November a portion of the route lay across the extreme 
southeastern edge of the remarkable basin known as the Great Macaricari, or 
''Great Salt Pan," the most 
singular feature of the Kala- 
hari Desert. It is an " enor- 
mous basin, where the ground 
has sunk from nine to sixteen 
feet, and which at its longer axis 
must be from one hundred and 
twenty to one hundred and fifty 
miles, and at the shorter, from 
eighty to one hundred miles in 
extent." It is elliptical in 
shape, and has its greater axis 
due east and west. In the Mas- 
sarua language the term Maca- the otJco. 

ricari " signifies a basin covered 

with salt, or salt pans, where the rain-water is held for a certain time, disap- 
pearing in the summer season through the evaporation, and once again leaving 
behind it the salte' which it had dissolved. The lining of the pans is of coarse 
sand, covered with a crystalline layer of salt, which attains to a thickness 
varying from an inch to an inch and a half. The great lake receives during 
the rainy season an immense volume of water through its tributaries the Nata, 
Simoane, Cualiba, and others ; in fact, the whole of the rains which fall in 
those latitudes between the lake and the frontier of the Matabeli country 
drain into it. These waters, which form enormous torrents, must fill the 
Great Macaricari very speedily. This vast basin communicates with Lake 
Ngami by the Botletle or Zonga, and its level is the same as that of the latter 
lake, a circumstance which gives rise to a remarkable phenomenon. As the 
two lakes are some degreri distant from each other, the great rains will 
frequently fall in the east and cause the Macaricari to overflow, whilst the 
springs which feed the Ngami have not increased in volume. The Botletle 
then runs westward from the Macaricari to the Ngami. At other times the 





286 OVR YOUNG FOLKS JN AFRICA. 

reverse of this takes place, and the Nganii uses the same conduit to drain its 
surplus waters into the Macaricari/' 

At the time our travellers crossed it the great basin was quite dry, and its 
white layer of salt was painful to the eyes, and the dust ground from it by the 
wheels of the wagons caused no little smarting to the throats of the party. 

On the 18th a mountainous country — through which ran the dry bed of the 
Letlotze — was crossed, and during the next day the route lay along the defile 
by which that stream breaks through the mountains. On the morning of the 
20th of November the party were on the road at an early hour, cheered by the 
knowledge that this was to be the last day of their wearisome journey. They 
pushed on as fast as the oxen could travel, and about noon arrived at Shoshong, 
the great capital of the Manguato. They were met at the entrance to the 
town by messengers from King Khama, the sovereign of the country, and 
were assigned quarters in a half-ruined house, which had been at one time 
occupied by some English missionaries. Dilapidated as the house was, it was 
still a shelter, and, with some little exertion on the part of the travellers, was 
soon made habitable. It was situated near the river, and close to a convenient 
supply of good water. 

The Manguato, or country of the Bamanguatos, occupies a large part of 
Southern Africa, immediately north of the western part of the Transvaal. 
Its capital is Shoshong, a city which contained at the time of our travellers' 
visit fifteen thousand people. The city is situated in the valley of the Let- 
lotze, which is here about three miles in width, and shut in by high mountains. 
It stands on the north side of the valley, close to the mountains, and is 
traversed by a torrent which divides it into two sections. The city consists of 
three quarters or wards, one of which is occupied by the natives, the second 
by the English residents, and the third by the missionaries, their church and 
school. The greatest drawback to the prosperity of the place is the scarcity 
of water, which is painfully felt during the dry season. 

The houses of the native quarter are built of reeds and covered with thatch ; 
they are cylindrical in shape, and have conical roofs. The missionary's quarter 
contains a church, a comfortable dwelling, and schpol-houses, built of brick, 
and covered with roofs of galvanized iron. On the opposite side of the city, 
in the open plain, U the English quarter, the houses of which are of brick, and 
are well built. 

The greater portion of the native population is Christian, having been con- 
verted by the labors of the English missionaries. All dressed in the European 
style, and our travellers were told that there was not an inhabitant of the city 
that did not possess a gun. The natives are })rosperous, being devoted to agri- 
culture and cattle-raising. Women as well as men take part in the field work, 
their ploughs and other implements being of English manufacture. Many of 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



287 



the residents of the city possess large herds of cattle, which graze in other 
parts of the country. Mr. Gaillard assured his 'American friends that they 
would find the Manguato, on the whole, the best governed and most ])rosperous 
of the native African monarchies. 

Soon after the arrival of the travellers at their quarters. King Khama, the. 
sovereign of this prosperous country, sent word to Mr. Gaillard that he would 
make him a visit in the afternoon. He arrived on horseback a little before 
sunset, accompanied by two mounted attendants. He was a striking-looking 
man, tall and robust, and with a countenance which showed him to be far 
above the average African ruler in both intellect and natural kindness. He 
was dressed simply in the English style, and with great taste. His manner^s 




LiSil QUARTER AT SHOSHOXG. 



were dignified but friendly, and our travellers declared that he was "every 
inch a king." 

He welcomed the missionary and his family warmly, smilingly remarking 
that he had felt sure that Lobossi would not permit him to enter the Lui 
country, and had been expecting his return for some time. Mr. Gaillard then 
presented Professor Moreton and the young Americans, who were cordially 
received by the king. He expressed great interest in their movements, and 
told them that as he was coming to breakfast with his friend, Mr. Gaillard, the 
next morning, he hoped to hear an account of their adventures. Then, con- 
gratulating them heartily upon having carried the journey so far with success, 
he exchanged a ^qw more words with the missionary and took his leave. He 
spoke English fluently, and it was in that language that he conversed on this 
occasion. 



288 0^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

" Well/' exclaimed Houston, after Khama had departed, " I must say lie 



■G --"- ^ {^ 



^' Khama,'' said Mr. Gaillard, '^ is the most remarkable man in Africa. 
His father was a barbarous old heathen, and treated his people very cruelly. 
Khama was the eldest son of this monarch, and the heir to the crown. At an 
early age he conceived a great liking for the English missionaries who were 
laboring here, and was converted to Christianity, and educated by them. You 
would be surprised to find how well-read he is. He is a man of fine intellect 
and great nobility of character. His education, his conversion to Christianity, 
and Jiis friendship for the missionaries drew upon him the hatred of his father, 
who persecuted him in various ways, with the avowed intention of getting him 
out of the way, and securing the succession for his second son, Camanhane. 
This conduct at length induced Khama, who was now thirty-one years old, to 
withdraw from Shoshong to the country along the Botletle. On the road his 
cattle were dispersed for want of water. They were caught by the Massaruas 
and taken back to his father. Khama sent at once to the king to reclaim them, 
but his messengers were told to inform him that if he wanted them he must 
come to Shoshong for them, and that his presence in that city would V)e the 
signal for his death. Khama coolly sent word that he would return to Sho- 
shong in the spring and demand them, and then set to work to collect an army 
from the people on the borders of the Botletle and Ngami. In the spring he 
marched upon the capital, defeating the forces sent against him in several 
battles, and finally ^entered Shoshong in triumph. The people received him 
with joy, deposed his father, and proclaimed him king. Khama then ascended 
the throne, and having restored to his father all his wealth and herds, and 
having also made a liberal provision for his brother, he sent them away to the 
south, on the borders of the Corumane. The condition of his people began to 
improve from the commencement of his reign, and they were delighted with 
their new sovereign. After a year had elapsed, he committed a great indis- 
cretion, prompted thereto by his natural kindness of heart. He recalled his 
.father and brother to Shoshong, and loaded them with favors. They repaid 
his kindness by renewing their plots against him; and Khama, disgusted at 
finding himself the object of new intrigues, resigned the crown to his father, 
and withdrew to the north. The Bamanguatos, however, who were warmly 
attached to Khama, were dissatisfied with this arrangement, and soon rose 
against the old king, deposed him, and recalled Khama, who, after once more 
loading his father and brother with riches, again banished them to the south. 
This was seven years ago, and since then Khama has reigned wisely and hap- 
pily. He has carried on several successful wars with the neighboring kings, 
and has thus established his reputation as a great captain. It is to him that 
the people owe their present prosperity, and they are devotedly attached to 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 289 

him. He has no guards, and visits the people in their homes and fields, treat- 
ing both rich and poor with equal kindness. He encourages them to work, 
and takes great interest in all their pursuits. He is very wealthy, but spends 
his money freely for the good of his people. You will see much of him while 
here, and the more you see the better you will like him.'^ 

King Khama kept his promise, and breakfasted with the Gaillards and our 
travellers the next morning. At his request, Asliton related the adventures of 
his party in their march across Africa. The king was especially interested in 
the account of their sojourn in the Lui country, and was much amused at the 
way in which they had bafSed the schemes of Gambella, whom he knew well 
by reputation. 

"Gambella is a man of ability and energy," said the king. ^^ If he were 
civilized and a Christian, his power for doing good to his country would be 
immense. What you tell me of Lobossi gives me a better opinion of him 
than I have ever had before." 

When the king had taken his departure Ashton and his companions went 
over to the English quarter, and seeking out Mr. Westbeech's correspondent, 
discharged his indebtedness to that gentleman. This was easily done, as the 
English had succeeded in introducing into Shoshong the currency of their own 
country. This had been a difficult matter at first; but at the time of our 
travellers' visit all transactions, even with the natives, were carried on with 
English money, and the system of barter was among the things of the past. 

Ashton had carried with him Bank of England notes to the amount of 
three hundred pounds ; so that, now that they had reached a country in which 
money could be used, he had no difficulty in procuring such articles as he and 
his companions were in need of. Among these was a new suit of clothes for 
each member of the party, including the blacks. 

Our travellers remained in Shoshong for a week, and greatly enjoyed their 
return to civilization. They made the acquaintance of the English missionary 
residing in the town, who was a friend of Mr. Gaillard, and of a number of 
the English merchants and their families, whose hospitality was cordially ex- 
tended to them. King Khama conceived a warm liking for the young men, 
especially for Ashton, and during the latter part of their stay invited them to 
accompany him on a hunting expedition. This was made on horseback, the 
king furnishing the mounts. Ashton's horse was a small but wiry, fleet- 
footed black, which pleased him so much that on the return from the hunt he 
was loud in his praises of it. The king smiled at the young man's enthusiasm, 
and replied that it was a very good horse indeed. He also complimented 
Ashton upon his riding. 

Immediately upon their arrival at Shoshong our travellers began to look 
about them for a wagon for the journey to Pretoria, the capital of the Trans- 

19 



290 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



1 



vaal. While engaged in their search one of the English merchants, with 
whom he had become acquainted, met Ashton on the street, and told him that 
he was about to despatch a wagon to Pretoria to bring up some goods that were 
awaiting him there. 

"The wagon will go empty," he said, "and it is large enough to hold your 
whole party and the two negroes I shall send with it. I don't think you can 
do better than to make use of it as far as Pretoria, where you can easily find a 
conveyance for the rest of your journey." 

Ashton readily accepted the offer, which was a most generous one. The 
Englishman refused to receive any pay for the use of the vehicle, which he 




THE OPUMBULUME. 



said he intended to send to Pretoria anyhow, and only asked that Ashton 
should pay for the food of the negroes who were to accompany it. 

" I am the gainer by the arrangement," he said. " You and your party 
will be a protection to my wagon and oxen, and I shall feel easier in my mind 
than if I sent them on alone. The country is comparatively safe, but still one 
never knows what may happen in Africa." 

"When will your wagon be ready to start?" asked Ashton. 

"Promptly on the 28th," was the reply. "Can you get ready by that 
time?" 

" We can start at any moment," answered Ashton. 

" Then we can consider the arrangement settled," said the English merchant. 

The next thing was to lay in stores sufficient for the journey, which would 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



291 



occupy nearly a month, and these Ashton purchased from the owner of the 
wagon that had been placed at his disposal. 

The evening of the 27th of November was spent by our travellers with 
the Gaillard family, whose many kindnesses had been gratefully appreciated 
by them. Everything was in readiness for the start the next morning, and 
Madame Gaillard now brought from her own slender stores some delicacies 
which she bestowed upon them as a parting gift. The regret at separating was 
mutual, for the missionary and his family had conceived a warm liking for 
their American friends. 

All the members of the household were astir at an early hour on the 
morning of the 28th. King Khama came to breakfast with the party, and to 




take leave of the departing Americans. He announced his determination to 
ride with them a few miles on their way, and invited Mr. Gaillard to join him, 
telling him that he had provided a horse for him. Breakfast over, the pro- 
fessor and his young companions bade farewell to Madame Gaillard and her 
sister, and walked over to the wagon which was awaiting them a short distance 
from the ruined dwelling. Upon reaching it they found the horse that Ashton 
had ridden at the king^s hunt standing near by, held by one of the royal 
servants. In a few minutes King Khama and Mr. Gaillard came up on horse- 
back, and the king, pointing towards the horse, said to Ashton that he had 
brought him as his parting gift to his young friend. 

^^ Accept him, with my good wishes," said Khama, kindly. " He will 



292 Ot/i2 YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

enable you or any of your friends to vary tlie monotony of the journey by 
changing from the wagon to the saddle, and yon will find him useful in many 
ways." 

Ashton warmly thanked the king for the handsome gift, and joyfully sprang 
into the saddle. The rest of the party took their places in the wagon, and the 
journey to Pretoria was begun, the three horsemen riding beside the vehicle. 
About four miles from Shoshong the king and the missionary bade adieu to 
the travellers, wishing them a safe and pleasant journey, and returned to the 
city. The latter watched them until they were out of sight, and then the 
wagon, drawn by its twelve oxen, set off again. About five o'clock a halt was 
made for the night at a spot where there was no water. The 29th and 30th 
were passed in journeying through a dull, uninteresting country, the ro.id lying 
for a great part through a thick forest. 

Soon after starting, on the morning of the 30th, the wagon, in des. sending 
a hill, met with a decided mishap. The wheels on one side got into a deep 
rut, and the ponderous vehicle tilted over, and would have capsized had it not 
been caught by two trees which grew close by the roadside, and which pre- 
vented it from going over entirely. The driver, a good-natured negro, who 
spoke English with tolerable ease, sprang out, looked at the wagon for a 
moment, and then quietly seated himself on the side of a bank, the pictur;^ of 
despair. 

''^ GQt up there, you black rascal," cried Houston, angrily, " and help u^ to 
get this wagon straight!" 

^^ It will tax our ingenuity to right it," said Professor Moreton. " Still, we 
must try." 

The professor then ordered the men to unyoke the oxen from the wagon, 
and to cut down three long, stout poles, which he made them lash to the fallen 
side of the vehicle. To the tops of these poles he attached ropes, which he 
fastened to trees on the opposite side of the road. Then, hitching a yoke of 
oxen to the ropes, he drew them tight, and so raised the wagon into its natural 
position. The negroes were set to work to fill up the rut with earth, pieces 
of wood, and the boughs of trees, so that the wheels might be on a level with 
those on the opposite side. The ropes which held the wagon in position Avere 
then removed, the oxen hitched to it again, and by considerable effort the vehicle 
was drawn out into the road once more. The undertaking was fatiguing in 
the extreme, and consumed four hours. During the last hour a heavy rain 
fell, and soaked the party through and through. They were off again at half- 
past three in the afternoon, but the storm increased so in violence, and the road 
became so deep in mud, that they were obliged to halt two hours later. The 
storm raged with great fury until ten o'clock that night, and the lightning played 
about wildly in every direction, striking large forest-trees frequently, and 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



293 



bringing them to the ground with a heavy crash. The violence of the tempest 
rendered it impossible for any of the party to leave the wagon, the interior 
of which fortunately kept dry, and the night was passed without supper. 

The next morning an early start was made, and in an hour an open plain 
was reached. The rain had rendered the ground so boggy that tlie wheels 
sank into it almost up to the hubs, and scarcely a mile an hour was made. 
After struggling for several hours across this plain, a slight eminence was 
reached where the ground was drier. When the top of the hill was gained 
the travellers found themselves on the left bank of the Limpopo, at that point 
called the Crocodile River. As the ground was firm and comparatively dry, 
the summit of the hill was chosen as the camping-place for the night. 




feS£»^/ 



KHAMA CHASING THE 0N6IRIS. 



Ash ton rode down to the river to try to ascertain its depth. Khama, for 
so he had named the horse, in honor of its giver, moved along leisurely until 
near the water, when he suddenly pricked up his ears, bounding into the grass, 
and darted off with the utmost rapidity. Ashton endeavored to rein him in ; 
but finding this in vain, seated himself firmly in the saddle, and allowed the 
animal to take his own course. In a few^ minutes the heads of several ongiris 
appearing above the grass explained the cause of Khama's rapid movements. 
He had scented the animals, and being a trained hunter, had set off in pursuit 
of them. For fully half an hour the race continued, the horse gradually 
gaining upon the antelopes. At last they w^re near enough for Ashton, who 
was anxious to bring the pursuit to a closCj to try the effect of his rifle ; and 



294 0^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

raising the weapon to his shoulder, he fired at the group of flying animals. 
One fell to the ground, but the others bounded off and were soon lost to sight. 
As he reached the dead antelope Khama stopped still, and Ashton dismounted, 
threw the game over his saddle-bow, and started to return to his com- 
panions. He endeavored to ride to the eastward, thinking the halting-place 
was in that direction, but Khama persistently moved northward, and Ashton 
at last let him have his own way. The instinct of the horse proved correct, 
and in about an hour he reached the wagon, where he found his companions 
alarmed at his long absence. 

The river was still too high to be forded on the 2d of December, and the 
party were forced to remain on its bank during the day. Houston and Phih'p 
Lee went out in the afternoon with their rifles, and succeeded in killing two 
fine leopards, which the negroes skinned for them. On the 3d, by the advice 
of the driver of the wagon, the party gave up the idea of fording the river, 
and moved off again, this time in the direction of the Ntuani, which they 
reached a short distance above its confluence with the Limpopo. The road 
was so deep in mud that their progress was very slow. They found the river 
too deep to be forded, and went into camp on its bank. The 4th and 5th were 
spent in waiting for the water to fall, and on the 6th it was found to have 
receded far enough to admit of a possibility of its being forded. Charlie 
volunteered to try its depth ; and stripping off his clothes, \vaded into the 
stream, and succeeded in crossing it and returning, the water coming up a little 
above his waist. As there was a probability that a fresh rain-storm might 
again swell the stream, it was determined to try to pass it without waiting for 
a further fall. The professor ordered the negroes to unload the wagon and 
carry the goods on their heads over to the opposite bank. This was accom- 
plished in the course of an hour, and then began the real difficulty of the pas- 
sage. Three of the six yoke of oxen were sent over the river in charge of the 
negroes, and Khama swam the stream in good style, with Ashton on his back. 
The other young men followed the example of tlie negroes, and forded the river 
with their clothes on their heads. When all were over. Professor Moreton 
entered the wagon, and taking the lines from the driver, ordered him to urge 
the six oxen, which were still attached to it, forward at full speed. The 
animals ran rapidly down the hill, dragging the heavy vehicle after them, and, 
dashing into the stream, succeeded, after a brave struggle, in reaching the 
opposite bank. The river was safely passed, but the men were so tired that 
the party encamped on the bank of the stream for the rest of the day. The 
river thus crossed marks the northern boundary of the Transvaal, and our 
travellers were now in English territory. On the 8th the journey was con- 
tinued along the left bank of the Limpopo, on which the camp was fixed at a 
late hour in the afternoon. 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



295 



While at Shoshong Professor Moreton had been presented with a magne- 
sium lamp, which had been left there by a previous traveller, and shortly after 
nightfall he determined to make use of this lamp, in some observations lie 
wished to take in order to determine the exact position of their camp. Mom- 
b^e was given the light to hold, and the professor busied himself with his 
instruments. He had scarcely begun his observations, however, when a loud, 
angry roar startled the whole party. Houston and Ashton at once caught up 
their rifles, which were lying by them, and Momb^e silently turned the brilliant 
light in the direction from which the sound had proceeded. The bright glare 
at once revealed two large lions, crouching and ready to spring, a few yards 




:m 



^n 




ANT-HILLS >EAU THE LIMPOPO. 



distant from the spot where the professor was standing. The blinding rays of 
the lamp, shining full in the faces of the lions, caused them to pause for a few 
moments, and thus gave the young men time to take deliberate aim, and fire. 
Both beasts fell to the ground, shot through the head. 

The danger was over, but the oxen and Khama, who had been seized with 
terror at the roar of the lions, struggled violently to break from their fasten- 
ings, and it took the combined efforts of the whole party to pacify them. The 
negroes were then set to work to strip the skins from the dead lions, and the 
professor resumed his observations. 

During the next few days the journey was continued to the southward ; 
the Marico Eiver w^as crossed on the 13th, and on the afternoon of the 17th 
the party arrived at Soul's Port, the mission of the Piland's Berg or Mountain. 



296 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

They took up their quarters iu some ruins not far from the dwelling of the 
missionary, who, noticiug their arrival, came at once to welcome them. 

Piland's Berg is one of the principal missions in the Transvaal, and takes 
its name from the lofty mountain on which it is situated, and which rises 
abruptly from the plain. The surrounding country is well cultivated, and the 
white houses of the Boer settlers coukl be seen dotting the mountain side. 
The next two days were spent at the mission, the travellers being hospitably 
entertained by the missionary, who proved to be a friend of Mr. Gaillard. 
He was greatly pleased to hear news of his fellow-worker, and paid a higli 
tribute to his unselfislmess and energy. 

On the 20th the professor and his companions set off again, and crossing 
the plain beyond Piland's Berg, entered a rugged country, and on the after- 
noon of the 23d reached the mission of Betania, a Boer settlement. Soon 
after starting, the next day, they passed through a Boer village, the inhabitants 
of which received them with the most demonstrative hospitality, pressing upon 
them presents of potatoes, fruits, fresh vegetables, and even fowls. The cause 
of this unusual demonstration was explained by one of the old men of the 
village, who spoke English imperfectly, and who told the professor that it was 
'' Christmas eve.'' The announcement and the hearty kindness of the settlers 
profoundly affected the professor and his companions, who had been so long 
used to savage life that they had not once thought of the approach of the great 
festival of the Christian world. After a brief halt, and many wishes for a 
" Merry Christmas," the wagon was off again. The Limpopo was reached 
and forded, though still quite high, and the camp was pitched on its right 
bank. 

Christmas morning, 1879, dawned bright and fair, and after a hearty 
breakfast the travellers set out again, stimulated by the knowledge that two 
days more Avould bring them to Pretoria. During the day they crossed the 
huge chain of mountains known as the Magalies Berg, which divides the 
Transvaal by a barrier running nearly due east and west. The pass by Avhich 
they crossed the range was a very difficult one, and it was a hard task for the 
oxen to draw the heavy wagon up the northern ascent. The descent of the 
southern side was exciting and difficult. The wagon, unprovided with a brake, 
plunged heavily down the steep road, frequently running on to the oxen, and 
threatening to send the whole team to destruction. The danger was so great 
that the professor made the whole party dismount from the vehicle and descend 
the pass on foot. No accident happened, however, and the camp was pitched 
late in the afternoon, at the foot of the ])ass. On the night of the 27th the 
party encamped in an open country destitute of wood ; and on the afternoon 
of the 28th arrived at Pretoria, the capital of the Transvaal. 

The country known as the Transvaal, or the " territory beyond the Yaal/' 



298 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



in the licart of wlilch our travellers now found themselves, lies between the 
Limpopo River, on the north, and the Orange Free State, Natal, and Zulu 
Land, on the south. The Vaal River separates it from the Orange Free State. 
It is divided into two unequal parts by the lofty range known as the Magalies 
Berg, or Kashan Mountains, which run across the entire country from east to 
M'est. The northern portion, as we have seen, consists of large plains broken by 
ranges of mountains, and is deficient in water. The southern ])ortion comprises 
vast undulating plains, from four thousand to seven thousand i^Qt above the 
level of the sea, well watered and rich in game. The whole country is fertile, 
yields good crops, and affords fine pasturage for the extensive herds of cattle 
and sheep that graze over it. Tobacco, cotton, and sugar are grown in the 




STOIM': l.\ !• 



northern section. The native population are principally Bechuanas. The 
whites consist chiefly of Boers, a people of Franco-Dutch origin, the descendants 
of the original settlers of the Cape Colony. The English po})ulation is small. 
The Transvaal owes its origin to the hostility of the Boers to the sov- 
ereignty of England. When the Caj)e Colony was transferred to Great Britain 
in 1814, the measure met with a silent but steadfiist opposition on the part of 
the Boers. This was intensified by the emancipation of the slaves in 1833, a 
measure which threatened to overturn the entire domestic system of the Boers, 
and in 1836 they emigrated in large numbers to the Orange River country, and 
founded the Orange Free State. Tlie next year a large band of them moved 
into Natal, and founded the town of Pietermaritzburg. In 1840 Great 
Britain took possession of Natal, and the majority of the Boers crossed the 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



!99 




NATIVES OF THE TRANSVAAL. 



mountains, and settled in the Vaal country. In 1848 Great Britain, under 
the pretext of protecting the savage Griquas from encroachments upon their 
territory, took possession of the Orange Free State. This measure led to a 
war with the Boers, under Pretorius, the president of the Orange republic. 



300 OVR yOi\\G FOLKS JN AFRICA. 

The Boers were successful at first, and drove the English garrison from Bloem- 
fontein on the 17th of June, 1848. They were defeated, however, by the 
English at Boomplaats, on the 29th of August of the same year, with great 
loss. Unwilling to submit to English sovereignty, Pretorius and the majority 
of his followers emigrated to the Vaal region, and founded the town of Pre- 
toria, which became the capital of the Transvaal republic. The country soon 
became prosperous, but it was not to escape the hand of the old enemy of the 
Boers. In 1877, Great Britain, under the pretext of putting an end to dis- 
order in the country and preventing a general rising of the natives, took j)os- 
session of the Transvaal. The British occupation was quietly effected, but was 
bitterly resented in secret by the Boers. This was the state of affairs at the 
time of our travellers' arrival at Pretoria."^ 

The Boers, as has been stated, are of Franco-Dutch descent, and sprang 
from a union of the original Dutch settlers of the Cape Colony and the 
French refugees, who, escaping to Holland after the revocation of the edict of 
Nantes, were sent out to the Cape of Good Hope by the Dutch East India 
Company in the latter part of the seventeenth century. The term " Boer" 
means simply ''farmer," or '^ cultivator of the soil." Our travellers found 
these people a hardy, active race. All could read and write, but beyond these 
rudiments they were ignorant. They were frugal, industrious, temperate, and 
moral. They were brave and determined, as their resistance to the savasje 
natives and the English had abundantly proved. Absolute equality prevailed 
among them. Their lives were regulated upon a system almost patriarchal, 
and their Bible, with which all were familiar, was the only book they read. 
The sole distinction that could be observed between them was that of age, the 
younger naturally yielding to the persuasion of the elder. The women were 
as industrious as the men, and devoted themselves indefatigably to the labors 
of the household. 

Pretoria our travellers found to be a small town, with about one thousand 
inhabitants, and an English garrison. The streets were wide and spacious, and 
were lined with well-built and often elegant houses, for the most part but 
one story in height, and frequently })laced in the midst of handsome gardens. 
The town, constructed upon an inclined plane, was abundantly supplied with 
water from springs in the upper portion. A few churches, a court-house, and 
the barracks of the garrison, the last placed on a commanding point above the 
town, constituted the public buildings. The town was growing rapidly, and 

* The hostility of the Boers culminated in open war against the English towards the 
end of 1880. Peace was concluded in 1881, after a galhmt resistance by the so-called rebels. 
The Boers were granted the right of self-government under the suzerainty of the British 
crown, which retains the control of the external relations of the state, and a veto on all future 
enactments affectinc: the natives. 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



301 



it was evident that in a few years it would become a place of considerable 
importance. The shops were numerous, and were well supplied with all the 
necessaries, and many of the luxuries, of civilized life. 

Halting their wagon, and leaving it in charge of Cliarlie and the other 
blacks at the outskirts of the town, Professor Moreton and the young men 
went into Pretoria to see if quarters for their party could be obtained. 
They sought out a Mr. John Taylor, a prominent merchant of the place, 
to whom they had been given letters of introduction by their friends in 
Shosliong, and were fortunate enougli to find him at his place of business. 




A TRAXSV^VAL FARM. 



Mr. Taylor received them with cordiality, but told them they would find it 
difficult to obtain such accommodations as they desired. His own house, he 
said, was too small to ask them there, or he Avould gladly invite them to be 
his guests. He had, however, a large piece of vacant ground near his resi- 
dence, and a number of tents in his warehouse. These he offered to place at 
their disposal, and with them they could form a camp. They would then 
be his near neighbors, he laughingly added, and he would be happy to see 
them at his house at any time. He advised the professor to send one of the 
young men to bring up their wagon and people at once, and he would have 
the tents in readiness for them by the time the wagon reached the store. 



302 



OUR youyo folks jn africa. 



Houston volimtecrccl to aLteiul to bringing up tlie wagon, and at once took his 
departure. 

Upon learning the plans of the party, Mr. Taylor advised them to lose no 
time in })ushing on to Durban, the seaport of Natal. They could easily reach 
it in eight days, by taking a wagon to Pietermaritzburg, from near which 
place there was a railway to Dnrl)an. The next steamer would sail on the 
11th of January, and there would be no other for a month. He told them 
there would be no difficulty in procuring such a wagon as they desired, and 
that he would assist them in securing a comfortable vehicle. 

From Mr. Taylor our travellers 

heard for the first time of the Zulu 
Nvar, and its successful close a few 
months previous to their arrival. 
The roads, he said, were now safe, 
and they might travel without fear 
of danger. There were numerous 
towns along the route where they 
could purchase such provisions as 
they might need, and it would not 
be necessary to encumber themselves 
with a stock of stores. 

Houston now came up with the 
wagons and the negroes, and Mr. 
Taylor caused the tents to be 
brought out and placed in the vehi- 
cle. He then conducted the party 
to their camping-ground, where the 
tents were soon erected. Mr. Taylor 
then left them, saying he should 
expect the professor and his com- 
panions to dine with him. The 
wagon was unloaded, the two negroes who were in charge of it were liberally 
rewarded, and Ashton mounted his horse and accompanied them to the estab- 
lishment of the merchant to whom the vehicle was consigned, and delivered ii 
to him. 

Three days were spent by our travellers at Pretoria. From the first the 
camp became an object of great interest to the people of the place, and when 
the latter learned the character of its occupants, their curiosity to see the bold 
adventurers who had so daringly crossed the continent knew no bounds. All 
day the camp was thronged with visitors, and invitations to dinners, balls, and 
receptions were showered u[)on the professor and his companions from all 




PUOFESSOU MOKETOX AT PRKTOP.IA. 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN 303 

quarters. Some of tliese were accepted, otliers declined from lack of time, 
and wherever they went the travellers found themselves the lions of the hour. 
They found the English society at Pretoria, though small, both cultivated and 
pleasant, and were in their turn amazed at the amount of luxury to be seen in 
this far-off quarter of Africa. After being so long cut off from the pleasures 
of civilization, their intercourse with their new acquaintances was very 
delightful. 

Ashton succeeded, with Mr. Taylor's assistance, in securing a couple of 
light covered wagons, drawn by four horses each, and driven by negroes who 
spoke English well. With these Mr. Taylor assured him they could reach 
Durban in full time for the steamer, and have even a day or two to spare at 
that place. 

At last all was in readiness, and early on New Year's Day, 1880, the 
wagons were at the camp, in readiness to start. Mr. Taylor gave them a 
parting breakfast at his house, to which a number of the prominent citizens 
and officers of the garrison were invited. The health of the travellers was 
drunk amid great applause, and all' present wished them a speedy and pleasant 
journey to the coast, and a safe return to their own country. 

The breakfast detained the party longer than they had expected, and it 
was not until ten o'clock that they were able to set out. Then, with a hearty 
good-by to the friends that had assembled to see them off', they started on the 
last stage of their memorable journey, Ashton mounted on Khama, and the 
other members of the party seated in the wagons. Pretoria Avas left at a 
rattling gallop ; and after a day's ride through a rugged country, the town of 
Heidelberg was reached about nine o'clock at night. The party found quar- 
ters at a hotel, the first house of European construction they had slept in since 
their departure from Benguela ; and they enjoyed greatly the rest in bed, hard 
and stiff' as their couches were. 

After an early breakfast they set off again, and about two o'clock in the 
afternoon reached the Waterfalls Eiver, which they forded with considerable 
difficulty, the stream being very high. The day's ride was across an enormous 
plain, utterly devoid of trees, and covered with grass, without a single object 
to break the view in any direction. At eight o'clock at night they reached the 
village of Standerton, where they crossed the Vaal River, and passed the night 
in a wretched inn. Still, after their hard experiences, the place seemed com- 
fortable enough to them. Standerton was left at seven the next morning, and 
early in the afternoon the party entered the defiles of the Drakensberg. The 
pass was steep and difficult, and they toiled slowly along it. Scarcely had they 
entered it when a terrific thunder-storm, accompanied with violent wind and 
rain, broke upon them, drenching them through in spite of the coverings of 
the wagons. Ashton, who was mounted on Khama, received the full force 






304 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



of the storm ; but the liorse, accustomed to such tempests, showed neither alarm 
nor uneasiness, but trotted along as peacefully as though it had been clear sun- 
shine. Night overtook the party in the defile, and compelled them to move 
cautiously. The storm ceased as they left the pass, and towards nine o'clock 
Ashton, who was riding ahead of the wagons, saw a bright and steady light 
some distance ahead. He halted until his companions came up, and pointed 
it out to them. They moved forward slowly until within a quarter of a mile 




THE DRAKKNSBKKG. 



of the light, and then stopped, hesitating whether to approach it or not. 
Ashtou volunteered to go forward and reconnoitre, and leaving his horse with 
the wagons, set out towards the light on foot. Approaching it cautiously, he 
saw that it came from a couple of fires, around which a number of men in 
European dress were gathered. Venturing still farther, he soon came within 
the line of light, and the next moment was halted by the stern challenge, 
" Who goes there?" Answering, "A friend," he was told to halt, while the 
sentry summoued the guard. Upon the arrival of the sergeant he was led to 



k 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 305 

one of the fires, by which three English officers were standing. They accosted 
hirn politely, and npon learning who he was, told him that he was in the 
bivouac of a small detachment of English troops on their way to join the gar- 
rison at Pretoria. The commander of the detachment cordially invited him 
to share their fire, and sent one of his men back to the rest of the party to 
bring them np. The wagons soon arrived, and the same cordial greeting was 
extended to the professor and his companions. 

" Your wagons will furnish better quarters for the night than we can offer 
you/' said Captain Layne, the commander of the detachment ; " but you are 
welcome to a share of the fire, and we can offer you some hot coffee, which I 
have no doubt will be acceptable, after the drenching the storm has given 
you." 

The offer was gladly accepted, and the travellers and their military hosts 
were soon seated around the fire, engaged in friendly conversation. The coffee 
was served in tin cups, but it seemed delicious to the wet and tired Americans. 
None of the party thought of sleep, save the negroes, who curled themselves 
up in one of the wagons ; and the night was passed by the fire, the English 
officers listening with deep interest to the story of the journey across the 
continent. 

Professor Moreton and his companions parted from their new acquaintances 
at daybreak on the 4th, and travelling all day reached a Boer farm-house at 
sunset, having eaten nothing since the previous day. Their request for supper 
was readily granted by the hospitable farmer, who set before them a hearty 
meal, to which they did full justice. They had to pass the night in their 
wagons, as the farmer had no room for them in his house. He promised them 
a good breakfast the next morning, however, and kept his word. He refused 
to take any pay for his hospitality, saying that it was one of the precepts of 
his religion to show kindness to strangers. 

With many thanks to their kind host, our travellers started again, and 
about sunset reached Newcastle Kiver, on the opposite bank of which stood 
the town of Newcastle. The river was rising rapidly, and it was with the 
greatest difficulty that they forded it. They spent the night in the only hotel 
in the place, and keenly enjoyed the wretched supper and breakfast of which 
they partook there. On the 6th they started at seven in the morning, and 
travelled through a rugged but interesting country. Early in the afternoon 
Sunday River was reached, and here an excellent dinner was procured for 
half a crown each. Thus refreshed, they resumed their journey, and arrived 
at Ladysmith about eight o'clock in the evening. The little inn at this place 
was sadly lacking in accommodations, and they spent the night on the parlor 
floor, on which the landlord spread mattresses for them without coverings. 
They slept soundly, however, and woke with wonderful appetites for breakfast, 

20 



30G 



OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 



which was served for them soon after sunrise. Starting immediately after 
breakfast, the party readied Colenso in three hours. Here they were conveyed, 
with their wagons, across the Tugela River in a good-sized ferry-boat. About 
three in the afternoon the charmincr little villao^e of Howick was reached, and 
liere our travellers spent a pleasant hour in visiting the beautiful cataract 
which has made the place famous. Pietermaritzburg, the capital of the 
colony of Natal, was reached at ten o'clock that night, and the party found 
excellent quarters at the Royal Hotel, the principal public-house. 




NEAR PIETERMAHITZBLTRG. 



Pietermaritzburg, a city founded by the Boers in their unsuccessful attempt 
to colonize Natal, is fifty miles from Durban, and contains over ten thousand 
inhabitants. It is well built, and possesses some handsome edifices, among 
which are several fine churches. It is noted for its handsome gardens and 
beautiful flowers, and boasts a fine park. 

Our travellers did not see much of the town, for they were anxious to push 
on to Durban without delay. The landlord of the hotel informed them that 
they would have to drive twenty-three miles the next day to reach the railway, 
which was not yet finished to the capital, and advised them to start about ten 
o'clock the next morning. They were off at that hour, and at three o'clock 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. ,3()7 

arrived at the terminus of the railway. As the wagons had been paid for at 
Pretoria, Ashton had only to bestow some gratuities upon the drivers, and 
transfer their property to the luggage van of the train which was to take them 
to Durban. 

As they beheld the train of cars standing in the station, the locomotive with 
steam up, ready to start, Houston, who had been silent for some time, exclaimed, 
in a voice trembling with emotion, — 

'' It may be all foolishness, but I tell you, boys, to get back to civilization, 
and a real railway train once more, makes the salt water come into my eyes !" 

Charlie and the other blacks were taken to see the locomotive, and were 
lost in astonishment at the sight of it. They were afraid to venture near it ; 
and Charlie, after looking at it from what h^ considered a safe distance, turned 
to Houston, and said, timidly, — 

*' Him one very big devil. Master Hoosie ! Me Yraid of him !'' 

The party crowded into a second-class carriage, as the professor and his 
companions were curious to witness the effect of this mode of travelling upon 
their followers, who had never experienced the like before. The train started 
at four o'clock, and as the. locomotive gave a long, shrill whistle before moving 
oflF, the Benguela men sank back in their seats with a howl of terror. Mom- 
bee's face was a study, and even the brave Charlie showed unmistakable signs 
of fright. 

'^Him no hurt us, Master Hoosie?" asked the poor fellow, in a low tone. 

" Oh, no, Charlie,'' replied Houston, laughing. " This is the way we travel 
in my country and in Europe. It is a very good devil that is pulling us 
along." 

The negroes were soon reassured by seeing that their white companions 
were not afraid, and when the train increased its speed gave utterance to many 
expressions of wonder and delight at the rapid and easy motion of the car- 
riage. 

Durban was reached at six o'clock, and the party proceeded to the principal 
hotel of the place, where they secured comfortable quarters. The windows of 
the rooms assigned to the professor and his companions commanded a fine view 
of the harbor and the sea, and all crowded around the one at which Professor 
Moreton stood, and gazed with feelings that it would be hard to describe upon 
the vast expanse of blue water which stretched away to the horizon. 

" Well, boys," said the professor, after a long silence, "the ^ Young Ameri- 
can Expedition to South Central Africa' is a success. We have, with God's 
help, triumphed over every difficulty ; we have crossed the continent, and this 
is the Indian Ocean. I think we have something to be proud of for the rest 
of our lives.'^ 

It was the 9th of January, 1880, eighteen months and three days since 



308 ^^^ YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

they had landed at St. Paul de Loanda to begin their journey across Africa. 
All their difficulties and dangers had been safely passed ; and the thought 
uppermost in each heart, as they stood gazing upon the sea, was one of devout 
thankfulness that they were all together, and that none of the party had been 
left sleeping in the '^ dark continent/^ 

" If any of you had died,'^ said Ashton, speaking as if to himself, " I should 
never have forgiven myself for urging this expedition." 

*' Well, old fellow," said Houston, "we have pulled through all right, and, 
the Lord be thanked, we are all here, safe and well !" 

Tlie steamer was to sail on the 11th; and Ashton, on the morning after 
their arrival, set about finding some means of sending Mombee and the five 
Benguela men back to their home. He proceeded at once to the office of the 
American consul, where he was warmly welcomed, and there had the good 
fortune to meet with the captain of an American clipper ship, which had put 
into the harbor the day before. When the skipper heard the young man's 
story, as he related it to the consul, he told Ashton that his vessel was bound 
for St. Paul de Loanda, and that he would very cheerfully receive the six 
negroes on board, and would land them at Benguela. This he offered to do at 
a very moderate cost. 

'^ V(\ go a couple of hundred miles out of my way to do this for you, 
young man," he said, heartily. "The pluck you youngsters and your professor 
have shown in your travels and troubles gives you a claim upon the assistance 
of any fellow-American. Now it seems providential," he added, "that my 
ship should come into this port just in time to help you out of your scrape 
about these niggers. You might have had to wait here for a pretty long time 
before you could have found such another chance." 

" Your arrival is certainly most fortunate for us, captain," said Ashton ; 
" but we should have sailed to-morrow, even if this lucky chance had not 
occurred, and have carried them to Europe, and sent them from there to 
Benguela by the Portuguese steamer." 

" I sail with the tide to-morrow morning," said Captain Gray. " Now I'll 
tell you what to do, Mr. Ashton. Bring your whole party on board of my 
shi}) this afternoon, and dine with me. We'll have the consul there, and I'll 
give you a real Yankee dinner. I dare say it will do you good, after your 
long absence from home. Bring your negroes along with you, and they can 
remain on board." 

Ashton accepted the invitation, and the captain soon left the office. With 
the assistance of the consul, the young man succeeded in getting a bill, which 
he drew upon his London bankers, cashed. He then proceeded to the agency 
of the steamship on which they were to sail the next day, and secured passage 
for himself and his companions to Zanzibar, where they were to change to a 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 



309 




Professor Moreton. 
Benguela negro. 



Mombee. 



Charlie. 
Benguela negroes. 



PROFESSOR MORETOX AND THE NEGROES OF THE EXPEDITION. 

steamer for Aden. Having thus accomplished all his business, he rejoined his 
companions at their hotel, and delivered Captain Gray^s invitation to dinner. 



310 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

Morab^e and the Benguela men were then paid the wages due them, were 
allowed to retain their guns as a reward for their fidelity, and were each fur- 
nished with a new suit of clothes. They were loud in their thanks, and de- 
clared that they would be great men when they returned to Benguela, and 
would always be treated with respect by their countrymen, since they had 
*' discovered so many countries." 

At four o'clock the entire party proceeded to the harbor, where the boats 
of the '' Columbia" were waiting to convey them to the ship. They found 
the vessel gayly decked out in bunting in honor of their visit. High above 
all floated the national ensign of the Great Republic of the West ; and as the 
professor and his companions stepped on board, and came once more under the 
stars and stripes, they gave three ringing cheers for the "old flag," which were 
answered with a will by the crew. 

A pleasant afternoon and evening were spent on board the " Columbia," 
and about nine o'clock our travellers and Charlie prepared to go ashore. Pro- 
fessor Moreton delivered to Momb§e a long letter to Silva Porto, which he had 
written during the morning, informing the old trader of the success of their 
expedition, and renewing the thanks of himself and his companions for the 
many kindnesses the old man had shown them. This letter he charged Mom- 
b^e to present in person. A hearty farewell was then said to the negroes who 
w'ere to return to Benguela, and the faithful blacks cried like children «t 
parting from their kind employers. 

" You can depend upon it, gentlemen," said Captain Gray, as the party 
w^ere leaving the ship, " these fellows shall be well treated on my ship. The 
way they stood by you in all your troubles gives them a claim to every kind- 
ness I can show them." 

Durino; the nipht the " Danubio," the steamer in which our travellers were 
to sail to Zanzibar, arrived and anchored in the roads, the harbor of Durban 
being too small to admit a vessel of her tonnage. She was to sail promptly at 
four o'clock on the afternoon of the 11th of January, and at noon the party 
embarked, with tlieir baggage, on the little tender which was to convey them 
to the steamer. They were soon on board, and were cordially welcomed by 
the captain, who had been made acquainted with their story by the agent of 
the line at Durban. 

The " Danubio" was a fine steamer, and our travellers were given excellent 
accommodations on board of her. Charlie, who had never been on a steamer 
before, was delighted with the vessel, and spent hours during the voyage in 
watching the working of her machinery, which seemed to him even more 
wonderful than the locomotive. 

The steamer sailed at four o'clock in the afternoon, and was soon at sea. 
The weather was fine, and the voyage proved very delightful. Calls were 



TO THE INDIAN OCEAN. 311 

niiule at Louren90 Marques, and Mozambique, and in due time Zanzibar itself 
was reached. Here it was found that the steamer for Aden would not sail for 
two davs, and the captain of the '^ Danubio," who had been very attentive to 
the professor and his companions during the voyage, insisted that the party 
should remain on board of his ship, as he declared they could not get decent 
accommodations in the town. He placed a boat at their disposal, and thus 
enabled them to go ashore whenever they wished. 

At Zanzibar our travellers parted from Charlie, who, besides being paid 
the wages promised him, was given a handsome present in money. The faith- 
ful fellow wept bitterly at parting from his friends, especially from Houston, 
to whom he was greatly attached, and they, on their part, were deeply grieved 
to separate from one who had been so devoted to them, and to whose intel- 
ligence and courage they owed so much. Houston offered to take him to 
America with him, but Charlie declined to go. He said he had an old father, 
whom he had not seen for many years, and he must now stay with him until 
his death. 

" He very old. Master Hoosie,'' said Charlie. " He not live long. When 
he die me go to 'Merikee. Me find you out, and never leave you again." 

Houston, thinking it by no means unlikely that Charlie would carry out 
his intention some day, gave him his address, and desired him to preserve it 
carefully. 

Two days after their arrival at Zanzibar, our travellers, now left to them- 
selves, went on board the steamer ^^ British India," and sailed for Aden, which 
was reached in due time. They were fortunate enough to find one of the 
Austrian Lloyd steamers about to sail for Suez, and immediately transferred 
themselves and their property to that vessel. The voyage up the Red Sea was 
uneventful, and at last Suez was reached. Here our travellers left the ship, 
and took the train for Cairo. 

It does not form a part of our purpose to describe the adventures of the 
party in Egypt. Our task was finished with their arrival at Durban, and we 
can only glance rapidly at their homeward journey. Being anxious to catch 
the first steamer for Europe, they gave a day to seeing the sights of the 
Egyptian capital, another to a visit to the Pyramids, and on the third day 
took the train for Alexandria, where they embarked on one of the Peninsular 
and Oriental steamers for London. The British metropolis was reached on 
the 1st of March, six weeks having been passed in the voyage from Durban. 
These were very delightful weeks to Professor Moreton and his companions, 
and enabled them to recover thoroughly from the fatigues of their trying 
journey. They arrived in England in excellent health and spirits, and eager 
to return to their own country. They made but a brief stay in London, and 
hurried on to Liverpool, where they took passage for Philadelphia on one of 



312 OUR YOUNG FOLKS IN AFRICA. 

tlie steamers of the "American Line." A pleasant voyage of ten days brought 
them to the Capes of the Delaware, and the next day saw them safely landed 
in Philadelphia. 

The comrades in so many memorable adventures were reluctant to separate, 
and two more days were spent together, the other members of the party being 
the guests of Ashton, who, it will be remembered, was a Philadelphian. The 
third day brought the inevitable breaking-up of the party, and they separated 
with many promises of future meetings. 

" ^yell, old fellow," said Houston, as he wrung Ashton's hand at parting, 
" when you get ready for another exploring expedition, don't fail to let me 
know ; only choose some other country than Africa." 

"I am done with explorations for some time to come," said Ashton, laugh- 
ing. " I, for one, am satisfied with the adventures of the ' Young American 
Expedition to South Central Africa.' " 



THE END. 



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